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2001 DRZ400E Can't Idle

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Hi everyone, I recently moved and let my dirtbike sit for an extended period of approximately 6 months. Bringing it to the new place, it didn't start up. I've taken the carburetor out and cleaned it twice now, soaked it in carburetor cleaner, used cleaning spray and made sure everything was clear and free with compressed air, etc. The bike did run fine prior to the move, and I'm assuming it has something to do with the jetting. I've been troubleshooting the problem for days now and have been researching on TT throughout this time, after much trial and error I thought I would post my specific problem so that someone might be able to guide me towards resolving this.

The problem: Bike will fire up fine with the choke, however when I release the choke the RPM's drop and steadily decline until the engine kills itself.

Current Setup:

Coast Enricher is still installed, however during troubleshooting I noticed that a tube was missing (reference item# 96: http://www.cheapcycleparts.com/model_years/4104-suzuki-2001--dr-z400e/assemblies/123127)

REFERENCE ID URL: http://www.cheapcycleparts.com/model_years/4104-suzuki-2001--dr-z400e/assemblies/123127

Main Air Jet: 200 (stock) [reference #26]

Slow Air Jet: 60 (stock) [reference #29]

Slow Jet: 45 (stock) [reference #27]

Starter Jet: 65 (stock) [reference #28]

Air Jet: 90 (stock) [reference #30]

Main Jet: 155 [reference #25]

Fuel Screw: 2.5 Turns Out

OBDXP Needle on Clip #5

So, it seems that the previous owner got a new Main Jet, removed the Tube connecting the carb and the Coast Enricher and called it a day.

I've done a lot of tweaking with the fuel screw and have moved the needle around to no avail. Any advice on how to resolve this will be greatly appreciated, I've been trying to get this idling correctly for about 3 days now. Thanks!

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What kind of carb cleaner did you soak it in? How long did it soak?

With the CE disabled, connect the 2 ports on the carb body with a hose. Seal the nipple on the head or better yet replace the screw in nipple with a solid bolt.

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I used the following carb cleaner to soak it in. The directions said 20 minutes.

crb_cln1.jpg

I haven't removed the CE, it is still attached. However, there is one tube missing from it (as described in my previous post). Are you recommending I completely remove the CE? If so, wouldn't I need to change my jetting?

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Sorry to say, you now have an expensieve door stop. The rubber seals in the non-disassembly body joints are ruined by the carb cleaner. Try SUDCO for the replacements but not always successful. The body parts are also bonded together with a JB weld type epoxy.

Yes, remove the CE. Follow the above instructions and the jetting does not need changing- however may be a moot point

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I made sure to remove all parts from the core of the carburetor before I dumped it in. Unless there are some rubber seals that I literally don't have access to, I think I'll be alright. If it's alright, I'd like to continue troubleshooting the issue as I was having the same problem before soaking the carburetor.

I removed the CE as suggested and still cannot maintain an idle. When I first started tinkering around with the jet settings, the ODBXP Needle was set at the 2nd clip (currently on the 5th), would this be an issue for the idle?

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Your carb is toast or will be eventually after that bath you gave it. But did you put a new pilot jet in it? Its probably plugged.

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Your carb is toast or will be eventually after that bath you gave it. But did you put a new pilot jet in it? Its probably plugged.

Why? Once he stripped everything off the carb body (like he says he did), and only dunked the carb body and none of the jets, seals or o-rings, the dip won't hurt anything.

I agree on one thing, though: no idle usually equals plugged pilot fuel jet. Ethagenated fuel is notorious for gumming up quicker than non-ethanol fuel, and the gunk is harder and stickier than the usual varnish that easily dissolves in carb cleaner.

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You can't strip all the rubber parts from the carb, that's the problem. Scroll back, I think I explained it. There are rubber seals in the permanently assembled joints. The loop in the bore comes out pretty easy but the main body is bonded together plus screws. You can keep fiddling with it but I really doubt it will ever work correctly. No, the -2 vs -5 needle position will not affect idle. Right now you have uncontrolled air leaks into the idle circuit.

When you get to the point that you have nothing to loose, go ahead and break the carb apart (hopefully it will break at the glue joint, this is a last resort process). Then you can access the damaged seals and maybe get replacements from SUDCO. You will have to clean the glue joint and re-bond that as well. I have only done this once with limited success for someone else that was unfortunate enough to buy a used carb that had been immersedd in carb cleaner.

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Thanks for the information all, it's kind of infuriating that using a carb cleaner destroyed my carburetor. I thought I did my due diligence by checking the parts diagram (at cheapcycleparts and bikebandit) to ensure that I hadn't included any rubber seals prior to soaking. Are they not listed on the diagrams?

I didn't get a new pilot fuel jet, but I cleaned it with spray cleaner and could see through it fine. I suppose I'll go buy a new one to see if that's the issue.

Thanks again.

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That is correct, the seals are not shown in diagrams. They are not listed as replaceable parts. I agree, very frustrating.

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Why? Once he stripped everything off the carb body (like he says he did), and only dunked the carb body and none of the jets, seals or o-rings, the dip won't hurt anything.

I agree on one thing, though: no idle usually equals plugged pilot fuel jet. Ethagenated fuel is notorious for gumming up quicker than non-ethanol fuel, and the gunk is harder and stickier than the usual varnish that easily dissolves in carb cleaner.

Noble summed it up pretty good, OP is SOL

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Just in case someone comes along in the future and finds this post. I went and bought a used carburetor off of ebay, cleaned it (properly this time), installed it, and the bike is running smooth. Although the JD Jetting kit I threw in there might've helped a little.

Thanks for the advice all.

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