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07 RMZ250 Suspension Settings

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well i have a (new to me) 07 rmz250. Could someone tell me the stock suspension settings of the clickers? I ride on a small track we have built on my friends track and the bike alway seems to nose dive when i go off a jump almost like the rebound on the back is set to fast. Also the whoops section we have built it seems to throw the seat up into my butt super hard as a go over them. I want to make sure its back to stock and adjust from there. does anyone know the clicker settings on front and rear? I am about 5', 10" 200 lbs. probably a little big for the bike but a 450 is just way too much and too heavy in the trails especially. Any recommendations on suspension settings after i get it set back to stock?

Also: does anyone have a link or able to send me a download for a service manual for the bike?

Edited by Paczowski123

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from the 08 manual:

forks:

compression: 11 clicks OUT (counterclockwise from full hard)

Rebound: 14 clicks OUT

Shock:

Low-speed compression: 11 clicks OUT

High-speed compression: 2 TURNS out until marks line up

Rebound: 5 clicks OUT

check if the springs are stock and what your sag is set at...

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Thanks for the reply. Do you or anyone else have any recommendations on settings for my weight? Or someone with a comparable weight have a setting that works good for them. I don't ride much track other than the small track we built, and an occasional track, but that mainly consists of rolling most of it lol. I am just looking to get rid of the nose diving etc.

And when you say high speed 2 turns out you mean 8 clicks b/c a turn should be 4 clicks correct. And the 2 marks should line p at that point

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Thanks for the reply. Do you or anyone else have any recommendations on settings for my weight? Or someone with a comparable weight have a setting that works good for them. I don't ride much track other than the small track we built, and an occasional track, but that mainly consists of rolling most of it lol. I am just looking to get rid of the nose diving etc.

And when you say high speed 2 turns out you mean 8 clicks b/c a turn should be 4 clicks correct. And the 2 marks should line p at that point

you can calculate the proper spring rates for you at http://racetech.com/VehicleSearch

the stock springs i believe are .44 front and 5.4 rear...

the clicker in the top portion of the shock (in the center of the 14mm nut) is your LOW-speed compression. your high speed compression is the actual 14mm nut (i believe its 14mm) this nut is simply turned by a wrench 2 turns out from full hard (no clicks involved) until the dimple in the nut lines up with the dimple in the shock body...

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Ok I gotcha, now when you put stiffer springs in the forks do you also need to revolve the forks as well? Or can simply respringing the bike help as well. I'm not a racer nor a bike track rider so I do not know if I will be spending the money on respringing/valving more so probably working with the clickers. I know they don't necessarily do much for major changes but I don't need race quality suspension for what I do. Maybe one day down the road I'll look into doing the internal suspension components.

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no, a re-spring doesn't require new valving, but the proper sag is crucial to the bikes overall handling performance, with that being said, the stock rmz is an excellent beginners bike. Anyway, back to your original question, are the jump faces your hitting at least one bike length long? what i mean is: are both your front and rear climbing the same grade as your leaving the jump? if not then your front is being forced down by the rear. only with a little rider input can you get this right... practice makes perfect, just dont hurt yourself

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I have a 2007 rmz 250 also and im 5'11.5" weighing 218 pounds, soon to be 190 :bonk: I paid a pro action suspension worker $20 and its a lot better but the forks are so soft on some jumps.

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I have a 2007 rmz 250 also and im 5'11.5" weighing 218 pounds, soon to be 190 :bonk: I paid a pro action suspension worker $20 and its a lot better but the forks are so soft on some jumps.

you are waay too heavy for the stock springs, even at 190 you will have to jump up the spring rate...

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190 would be to heavy? Race Tech said ideal rider weight for the stock springs was 185? 5 pounds difference is way to heavy?

NO, i referred to 218lbs as being WAAY too heavy, 190 is still too heavy though. race tech recommend spring rates which work well with their products, like their gold valves (which stiffen up damping), and thus don't need stiffer springs to keep the fork/shock from blowing through their stroke. you have to understand that soft springs do not create a soft or plush ride, quite the opposite, they don't allow the fork/shock to return sufficiently (not enough energy) thus the suspension uses a small amount of the available stroke (causes harshness). take it for what its worth but even at a beginner level the 07-09 rmz250 was sprung/valved for lighter riders...

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Oh yes i know i am too heavy for the bike, i was more so confused how a few pounds made a big difference being that u said 190 was too heavy when race tech said the best weight was 185 is all.

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I weigh 170 and the fork springs on my 07 are too soft, like the action so much though I haven't wanted to change them, just makes you adjust your style a little on slap down landings. Tried raising the oil level on my last service but still don't want to just crank in a bunch compression and lose the supple action.

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I weigh 170 and the fork springs on my 07 are too soft, like the action so much though I haven't wanted to change them, just makes you adjust your style a little on slap down landings. Tried raising the oil level on my last service but still don't want to just crank in a bunch compression and lose the supple action.

a step up on the fork springs will do you good, you wont lose that supple action and the front end will be carried higher in the stroke (should actually make it a bit more forgiving since you'll be using more of the stroke)

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