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Wiring An Acerbis LED Vision Headlight on My XR400R

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Hey guys,

So I recently just bought an Acerbis LED Vision headlight.

I wanted to replace my XR400 headlight and this one looked pretty sweet. I have a feeling that the wiring is going to be a bit more complex than I thought tho. I think I can figure out how to wire the 2 main beams in the front using the current wiring on the bike, but what about the LED's on the side?

The XR400 doesnt have a battery and I dont really want to add one. Has anyone worked with this or similar lights on a battery less bike and is there other options on how to split the wiring to feed the LED's as well as the 2 main beams?

I'm a novice when it comes to wiring so I could use all the help I can get! Thanks

Edited by Foxmann250

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Don't LEDs need DC power? Isn't your stock wiring giving the headlight AC power? If so, you will need a new regulator/rectifier to put out DC power and may want to/need do float the ground on your stator. I am not sure about this, but I think you may have to do some mods to run LEDs.

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I've read you can use DC or AC to power LED's.

DC is what they typically run on but you can use AC with a different voltage to achieve the same thing. Since the LED's will only light up during one direction of flow, you can crank up the voltage and in turn the speed that the light will flicker at which if flickering fast enough, it looks like it is on continuously.

The specs on the XR400R are:

AC current to the headlight @ 12V and 35W

I'm pretty sure it runs off a magneto tho since there's no battery

Is it as simple as buying an inverter? Can I make the LED's run off a magneto?

I'm not looking to do anything fancy like wire the LED's for turn signals and such, just want them to shine while the bikes on is all.

Edited by Foxmann250
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AC comes from your stock stator on the lighting coil side. (there are two sides ignition and lighting)

I have never run led off AC as I have DC to HID on my xr4 but if you have read it is compatible then... Your stock headlight plugs into two bullet connetors. Ground side is a duplex connetor that only uses one side. Power side would just needs to be split.

I think your bigger concern should be are yocovering up your oil cooler? Notice your stock shroud is cut out for ventilation to oil cooler. Most aftermarket lights are not.

Edited by aDayintheDirt

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AC comes from your stock stator on the lighting coil side. (there are two sides ignition and lighting)

I have never run led off AC as I have DC to HID on my xr4 but if you have read it is compatible then... Your stock headlight plugs into two bullet connetors. Ground side is a duplex connetor that only uses one side. Power side would just needs to be split.

I think your bigger concern should be are yocovering up your oil cooler? Notice your stock shroud is cut out for ventilation to oil cooler. Most aftermarket lights are not.

This headlight has 2 bulbs and the 2 sets of LED's... so I think there are 4 wires out the back...

I dont have a battery so this would all be power from the magneto i'm guessing

If I just split the 1 wire going to my stock headlight into 2 and then used an inverter on one of them to power both sides of LED's using DC, do you think that would work? If I were to use the regular AC to power them, I think the voltage would be all messed up. As for the stock shrouds having cut outs for venting of the oil cooler, I dont really know since I have yet to take off the OEM headlight and put the new one on... hopefully there's not too much modding needed to be done.

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This headlight has 2 bulbs and the 2 sets of LED's... so I think there are 4 wires out the back...

I dont have a battery so this would all be power from the magneto i'm guessing

If I just split the 1 wire going to my stock headlight into 2 and then used an inverter on one of them to power both sides of LED's using DC, do you think that would work? If I were to use the regular AC to power them, I think the voltage would be all messed up. As for the stock shrouds having cut outs for venting of the oil cooler, I dont really know since I have yet to take off the OEM headlight and put the new one on... hopefully there's not too much modding needed to be done.

Just split your power wire as many times as needed. 1 into 2, 1 into 4 doesn't matter. Your draw will be less than the 35 stock bulb. "Voltage all messed up"? Not sure what that means. You are running off the stator so voltage will fluctuate with rpm, if that's what you mean.

You don't need to take off the OEM headlight to see how it is open on the bottom half, just take step back and notice no interference, as you can see directly to the oil cooler. Now look at you your new headlight... Can you see where wind can flow thru and across the oil cooler?

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Just split your power wire as many times as needed. 1 into 2, 1 into 4 doesn't matter. Your draw will be less than the 35 stock bulb. "Voltage all messed up"? Not sure what that means. You are running off the stator so voltage will fluctuate with rpm, if that's what you mean.

You don't need to take off the OEM headlight to see how it is open on the bottom half, just take step back and notice no interference, as you can see directly to the oil cooler. Now look at you your new headlight... Can you see where wind can flow thru and across the oil cooler?

I was reading that AC voltage and DC voltage are not comparable... so I'd draw more or less voltage depending on which I was trying to convert to. I see what you mean about the headlight. I believe I can mount this new headlight a little higher on the forks which should be ok tho.

So If I split the wire 4 ways I should still be ok? Do you know what kind of inverter I should probably use for an application like this?

Edited by Foxmann250

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Not sure if you have used this light yet, but the light output from the main light is GARBAGE! We offer this light and I always make sure to tell the customers you are buying this light for looks, not for function.

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Not sure if you have used this light yet, but the light output from the main light is GARBAGE! We offer this light and I always make sure to tell the customers you are buying this light for looks, not for function.

Ya I've read that... I rarely ride at night tho and the OEM light isnt really bright enough for me either so I figured this would at least look cool. What if I were to swap the bulbs tho? I read that you can go upwards of 55 watts before they'll melt the plastic haha

You seem to know a bit about this style of headlight. If the LED's run off the AC current, then is it as simple as splitting the line to feed the 4 wires then? The simpler the better :bonk:

Edited by Foxmann250

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Ricky Stator is the go to company when your talking motorcycle electronics! Your stock AC regulator is fine, forget about DC. DC would only be needed if you wanted lights on with bike off.

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Ricky Stator is the go to company when your talking motorcycle electronics! Your stock AC regulator is fine, forget about DC. DC would only be needed if you wanted lights on with bike off.

ok thanks! Ya my XR doesnt even have a key... so I dont even know why I would turn the lights on with the bike off unless I added a battery and a switch... I'm happy with just having it on when I start it up.

Since the stock wattage is 35, and the new headlight is dual bulbed... would I have to keep the total wattage (2 bulbs and 2 sets of LED's) under that 35 watts?

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Here's what the wiring looks like in the back: Its similar to mine, except mine has red and black wires for the side LED's and then the 2 white cables for each lower light.

headlight.jpg

Edited by Foxmann250

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ok thanks! Ya my XR doesnt even have a key... so I dont even know why I would turn the lights on with the bike off unless I added a battery and a switch... I'm happy with just having it on when I start it up.

Since the stock wattage is 35, and the new headlight is dual bulbed... would I have to keep the total wattage (2 bulbs and 2 sets of LED's) under that 35 watts?

Should...? Need to... No, stock stator puts out 55 at idle and 75 max at higher rpm. Running to much will tax your whole system and dim to much with rpm drop. Your led light should be more than fine power wise on stock stator.

The picture you posted looks like the two sides (blue/green and orange/green) are intended for turn signals? Hence the color and designated ground. Where as the two bottom were intended for high low or just dual. Hence no color difference as doesn't matter which is ground.

Either way, just hook the two top greens to one of the whites from each side lowers... To ground.

And blue, orange, and the remaining whites to power... Via switch or just fuse.

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Should...? Need to... No, stock stator puts out 55 at idle and 75 max at higher rpm. Running to much will tax your whole system and dim to much with rpm drop. Your led light should be more than fine power wise on stock stator.

The picture you posted looks like the two sides (blue/green and orange/green) are intended for turn signals? Hence the color and designated ground. Where as the two bottom were intended for high low or just dual. Hence no color difference as doesn't matter which is ground.

Either way, just hook the two top greens to one of the whites from each side lowers... To ground.

And blue, orange, and the remaining whites to power... Via switch or just fuse.

What was the "should...? Need to..." referencing? I'm guessing the LED's dont draw much power. The twin bulbs however might. Any idea what wattage I can upgrade those with before its too much and they'll flicker at low rpm's? Is it as simple as twin 25 watt bulbs which will draw 50 watts total putting me under the 55 the stator gives at minimum rpm's? On my headlight I just got, my wires are not colored exactly like the one I posted. They are red and black instead of colored and green. I'm guessing black is the ground. This all sounds pretty simple. Cant wait to wire it up and see!

Edited by Foxmann250

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Your light Is gonna pulse to some point at anything less than high rpm with AC. should meaning for real light, yes. Need to to get some kind of illumination, no.

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Your light Is gonna pulse to some point at anything less than high rpm with AC. should meaning for real light, yes. Need to to get some kind of illumination, no.

Ahh gotcha. Well I'll try it first with the stock bulbs and see my beam strength. Thanks for all your help. I'll post some pics when I get a chance after its installed :bonk:

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Glad to hear an update. So often never hear the outcome.

Just noticed your from Oregon? If from the Bend area, you owe me a tour! Haha

Really like eastern Oregon, have yet brought the bike up tho.

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