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2000 650r clutch problem

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I am having clutch issues.After a clutch inspection everything looked good and lever working nice I put in gear and let out clutch I hear a funny noise and she stalls.Now there is no clutch at all.Put new cable,improved honda clutch bushing,lifter lever return spring,judder spring and seat,newer clutch kit everything still in spec.It seems to me the clutch rod is to short.It does not appear broken and the end cap looks intack.Does anyone know the lenght the rod should be?Ordered a new one,but am running out of options.The lifter lever rod feels very sloppy like the rod is to short but looks ok please help.

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So am I...Did you pull the actual Clutch apart??,,and if so how far did you go??,,Did you pull the long skinny rod out of its centre???,,On the XR600 AND 650L that long rod goes right through the engine to where the clutch lever arm fits into the crankcase. At that point it "the rod"fits into a round tube that actuates against the levers shaft when it's pulled..if that was somehow missing or not seated correctly the clutch would I assume not work. The 650r is different over where that lever is from the 600/650L and I don't own a 650r so I don't know how it's setup in there. The fiches that I look at also do not show the cup the rod fits into unless I'm somehow missing it,,I say the problem is over there on the left casing below that clutch arm lever..

Then again I may be wrong on the way the 650rs clutch rod works against the lever..Someone with a 650r should know stuff like that..If the cup was somehow dislodged it looks to be a bit of a major to sort out on that bike. The levers actually on one of the centre casings not on the Stator cover like a 600/650L.,ie,,meaning,,How the heck would you ever get at it to check it's in position correctly without seperating centre casings???

Edited by Horri

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ya I had the clutch out.Everything was fine until I put it in gear.Took it back apart all the way down to the basket bushing.All looks good,rod,end cap and lifter lever.Everything works but rod seems to short to disengage clutch.I have taken it apart before so I cant see anything wrong.Maybe the rod but it seems bullet proof

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The rod just slides into the lifter lever shaft.I will have a new one next week but fear the motor will have to be split as everything is in spec.The only other thing is where the bearing go on the pressure plate but looks fine.Thanks Guys but its looking grim.I feel Horri may be rite ,the motor may have to be split.

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I wouldn't jump to any conclusions,,Someone else must know how that rod

fits into the arm. If it requires an engine split just because you remove

the rod and say move the actual arm it's a major design floor. No way should

you ever have to do that just because you maybe moved the arm to check things.

Double and triple check everything else and certainly wait for other opinions..

Edited by Horri

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The clutch arm pivot pivots and presses the clutch rod over to disengage the clutch.

It's a very short movement so your issue may be of spacing the clutch hub and hub centre somehow or plates and friction discs.

I'd spec everything and add it all up to match what the book says.

HTH

.

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Everything is right and up to spec.Plates are right order.I cant understand either.I did hear a funny noise when it broke.Everything is new.Will let you know when the rod gets here.Thanks everyone

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Well the rod came and just as I suspected the old one is fine.I'm bringing it to my bike mechanic who's going to look at the bike and tell me if the block needs to come off the frame.I'll keep you guys posted,thanks everyone.

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With the side case off when you pull the lever does the pressure plate move in & out equally? Mabe a broken clutch spring.

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Made it to mechanic today.Said the clutch linkage looked good and maybe try a clutch kit as mine is almost 3/4 gone and maybe its warped.If that doesnt work hell charge $400 plus parts to open block.He got thye clutch adjusted out more than me with no free play and it wanted to work but no dice.Said if the kit doesnt fix it the shaft has to come out.Just ordered Honda kit for $130 from Troy Honda.$20 cheaper than my other mail order places.I'll let everyone know what happens.Thanks

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Hmmm. I had a similar problem on reassembly -- turns out that I hadn't properly seated the basket and hub. Took it all apart and re-seated and all worked fine.

One thing I did on the second round was test the connecting rod at each stage to isolate the step I had screwed up.

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Do you mean the bearing the rod cap goes in to.I had those misalign before but everything looks good.But I know what you mean it feels good till you pull the lever then the rod misses but I have already explored that scenario.Thanks alot for helping I fix all my problems I cant figure out by these type of sites for all my vehicles but this one has me stumped.The mechanic had it almost but something still wasnt kosher.

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Do you mean the bearing the rod cap goes in to.I had those misalign before but everything looks good.But I know what you mean it feels good till you pull the lever then the rod misses but I have already explored that scenario.Thanks alot for helping I fix all my problems I cant figure out by these type of sites for all my vehicles but this one has me stumped.The mechanic had it almost but something still wasnt kosher.

Yes, I tested with the rod in place and the cap on the end. Stood on the clutch side of the bike and reached over the seat to activate via the arm the cable connects to. At each stage I wanted to be sure that the rod, when activated by the arm, would protrude from the right side of the bike. I had to put pressure on the right with the right hand at each stage.

I had two problems along the way:

1) I didn't properly seat the basket onto the gear/shaft

2) The clutch stack was too thick

Both of these resulted in me thinking the rod was too short, when it wasn't.

Dan

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I had the problem before the basket was off.How does the stack get to thick?Is anyone seeing the coincidence this happened after a clutch inpection?Feels like rod is to short.Mechanic thinks warped clutch.I never had this happen before.Clutch is not very old.Thanks I will know next week if block needs to be split.

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I had the problem before the basket was off.How does the stack get to thick?Is anyone seeing the coincidence this happened after a clutch inpection?Feels like rod is to short.Mechanic thinks warped clutch.I never had this happen before.Clutch is not very old.Thanks I will know next week if block needs to be split.

Stack was too thick because I left the judder spring in -- and it was too large for the inner diameter of the uniquely sized friction plate -- as described in my thread about the Tusk kit. Once I left the judder out it all fit together perfectly.

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Thanks everyone after some debacle,clutch kit came and bike now works.Never had clutch warp before.Alls left is to renew insurance.Should have known Hondas are indestructible.

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