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valves..steel or Ti?

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I just got done rebuilding my 03' 250f engine (rod decided it wanted some fresh air and jumped out of the cases) and my valves are leaking slightly, but since the entire bottom end is new I figure might as well rebuild the head also why its apart. I'm almost deffinatley going to switch to steel valves since I want longevity over performance, but I have no idea what valves are good and which arent. Any one have any thoughts or suggestions on what brand to use? or a good reason to keep it ti?

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I just got done rebuilding my kx and replaced the intakes with faction mx valves, rode it yesterday and all is well. The exhausts were already replaced with kibble whites so I reused them. Had my local machine shop recut the valve seats for 40 bucks. That is very important. the only real difference between the valves were the springs. The kibbles have double springs while the factions are single spring. Both are a stiffer spring and are required for the s.s. valves because of the added weight. That said I imagine the stiffer springs would cause added resistance in the valvetrain so if you dont want to compromise anything stick with the Ti valves. Ti valve weakness is heat, when the seats get dirty/deposits on them the valves cant dissipate the heat as well where stainless is more likely to withstand more heat. Take note to include the cost of the spring kit with any s.s. valves you might be looking at vs. a Ti set up.

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id go with the steel valves, they hold up way more than the stock titanium. the titanium ones are so weak they seem to flatten out very quickly. I went through intake valves once a year with titanium, exhausts every other. i bought faction mx intake valves and they havent even moved after a year, im very happy with going to steel...no more expensive valve replacements and seat cuttings for awhile!

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oem ti valves are the way to go.

I agree, when you look at then cost of OEM valves, which are Ti, I cant see a reason to go with anything else. The OEM valves are about the same price as stainless, and the oem valve springs are far cheaper than aftermarket springs for stainless valves. This is a situation where OEM cost less and is better quality.

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I agree, when you look at then cost of OEM valves, which are Ti, I cant see a reason to go with anything else. The OEM valves are about the same price as stainless, and the oem valve springs are far cheaper than aftermarket springs for stainless valves. This is a situation where OEM cost less and is better quality.

So what company do you buy your oem valves from?

Seems dealer markup is what makes them way too expensive here. I'm all for supporting local but when I can get parts for half price by spending 20 mins on the net, -with no trade pricing or bulk discounts -I have to draw the line at dealers taking the piss!

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I bought kibblewhite SS off ebay for 300 bucks ran them for 120 hours still in spec no shimming.

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I agree, when you look at then cost of OEM valves, which are Ti, I cant see a reason to go with anything else. The OEM valves are about the same price as stainless, and the oem valve springs are far cheaper than aftermarket springs for stainless valves. This is a situation where OEM cost less and is better quality.

Steel vs Ti is not about quality as the aftermarket valves and springs are good quality. It's about longevity and LONG TERM cost. Steel valves will always outlast Ti valves by 4x or 5x. Even if it were only 2x, Steel becomes MUCH cheaper plus, you can ride your bike more and work on it less. Of course, you give up some revs with steel.

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So what company do you buy your oem valves from?

Seems dealer markup is what makes them way too expensive here. I'm all for supporting local but when I can get parts for half price by spending 20 mins on the net, -with no trade pricing or bulk discounts -I have to draw the line at dealers taking the piss!

You can buy oem parts from RockyMountain or Service Honda. I believe the valves are about $70 per valve, and the springs are like $5 per spring. Stainless valves tends to hammer the seats, and cause the seats to warp over time. I suppose if you run really low revs, then the stainless valves will last alot longer, but as you creap up into the high revs, the heavier valves will warp the valves seats quicker. There are plent of people on these boards who have over 150 hours on the stock valves, I doubt there are very many people with 150 hours on stainless valves. Yamaha didnt pick Ti because its cheap, they picked it because its the best and most reliable choice.

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As far as I know rocky mtn. no longer sells oem. Babbitts lists at 55 for intake and 65 for exhaust. 6.50 for springs. Plus shipping.

Edited by Joshx221

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http://www.hondaeasttoledo.com/ Funny enough, this Honda dealer is the cheapest place I could find parts for my yammie! $50 for intake valves, and $60 for exhaust ones! Plus the site is really easy to use, and I'm pretty sure you get free shipping on orders over $100. I just got about $550 worth of parts through them including valves, springs, and seals. Pretty good CS, too. Edited by 762SPR

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