Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  

Street-legal E harness: am I missing anything?

Recommended Posts

I'm admittedly not the best with electrics, and usually have pretty terrible luck trying to trouble shoot electrical gremlins on bikes. So, in the interest of doing this street-legal conversion to my 2000 E-model right from the get-go, I decided to plan everything out and make sure I was doing it correctly the first time.

So, any of you guys who are good at electrical stuff, could you take a look at this harness diagram I whipped up? I think I've got everything I need on there, and I've started collecting parts for the conversion.

DRZEharness.jpg

The red wire from the battery/fuse to the ignition switch is already there, and I plan on just tapping into the orange wire (which already goes to the starter switch and CDI) to power the rest of this harness.

The stock E headlight is getting swapped for an acerbis DHH (I think) piece with high/low beams for now, until I can find something a bit brighter. I have a hydraulic banjo-bolt switch for the front brake, and a spring-loaded switch for the rear. Signals are wired to a stand-alone 3-prong flasher unit specific for LEDs, and the tail light is a universal light/tag holder that I bolted to a chopped stock E-model fender. I have an OEM S-model switch housing the the horn/signal/light switches, and an SM model horn.

So, is this going to catch fire as soon as I start it up?

Thanks for looking!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Good job. Looks perfect.

I prefer to use a relay to power everything shown on the diagram but Suzuki does it all off the orange wire and it will work fine.

To use a realy, run an fused wire from the battery to a relay and control the relay with the orange wire. Then connect everything on your diagram to the realy. This will reduce the load on the orange wire and keep the lights brighter. But your way will work and probably be fine.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the reply! The relay is a good idea; I hadn't thought of using another one for the lights. Everything but the headlight is LED, so I may just use the relay to power the headlamp unit. That way, if I want to upgrade to higher output or something later, I don't have to worry about blowing the main fuse. I also forgot to add the Vapor dash to the diagram, but that's easy enough to wire up.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The stock E headlight is getting swapped for an acerbis DHH (I think) piece with high/low beams for now, until I can find something a bit brighter.

If you're just gonna switch out the Acerbis light, why not just use your stocker for a while? If your bike is like my 2004 E model, the stock headlight already has high/low beam filaments in place. The high beam is currently always on by default. All you need to do is move the existing +12v wire (yellow) to the empty spot in the connector to power the low beam all the time, then add a switched +12v wire to the other filament.

If you're going to add a relay, I'd suggest making a complete harness for your new equipment. That way there will be no chance you can blow your main fuse on the trail if you damage any of your new equipment. It's very possible to blow your main fuse with your current design if any of your new stuff shorts to ground.

I used banjo bolt brake switches for my first effort. Some folks have great success with them, I did not. I tried two different brands and both failed in short order. The bigger problem was that I was unable to get a solid feel in either lever when the banjo bolt switches were installed. Removing them solved the problem. I picked up a S master cylinder with switch on ebay for cheap and used a spring loaded switch on the rear.

Finally, be careful how you route your stock headlight wires during your conversion. From the factory, they leave the main harness in a way where they are already in danger of getting caught in your steering stop. After you fool around behind your shroud a while, they might become even more exposed. Pinching your headlight wires in the steering stop will blow your main fuse and shut off your engine RIGHT NOW, ask me how I know. A couple of strategic zip ties will fix this problem.

Edited by Tupperware

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I would try what Tupperware mentioned or pass on the DHH all together. I had one on my streetfighter for a bit and it was pretty much useless. The Polisport Halo is an H4 high/low bulb like the stock S + SM. (and probably your E) Or there are a few other options. Here is a current headlight thread. http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/939375-what-head-lights-are-ppl-running/

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The Polisport Halo is an H4 high/low bulb like the stock S + SM. (and probably your E)

My E headlight (stock) is not a H4. I am pretty sure it is a generic 30/35 watt halogen bulb inside a plastic lens. I think a H4 would melt the lens. It is adequate at low speeds on the trail at night. i would not trust it on a highway. I can pull the bulb if anybody needs to know the specs. I have heard that some E's came with a different headlight/bulb but have no idea of the differences. Also, the stock headlight wiring could not stand much more current than what my bulb draws. The wires are, maybe, 18ga at best. Might be as small as 20-22ga. If you install a real headlight, I'd run it off a relay with some more substantial wires.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

My E headlight (stock) is not a H4. I am pretty sure it is a generic 30/35 watt halogen bulb inside a plastic lens. I think a H4 would melt the lens. It is adequate at low speeds on the trail at night. i would not trust it on a highway. I can pull the bulb if anybody needs to know the specs. I have heard that some E's came with a different headlight/bulb but have no idea of the differences. Also, the stock headlight wiring could not stand much more current than what my bulb draws. The wires are, maybe, 18ga at best. Might be as small as 20-22ga. If you install a real headlight, I'd run it off a relay with some more substantial wires.

I have a SM headlight harness in my KLX-R (E) and the wires are still 16-18ga. It powers a 55/60w H4 bulb fine.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I checked my headlight today, and it definitely only has a single hot wire. Couldn't tell what type of bulb though. I'll run the Acerbis just to get street legal, and either supplement with aux lights or replace with something properly bright as time and budget allow. I do very, very little night-time riding, and most of that will be on lit surface streets- it would be nice to have something extremely visible just for safety's sake though.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I checked my headlight today, and it definitely only has a single hot wire. Couldn't tell what type of bulb though. I'll run the Acerbis just to get street legal, and either supplement with aux lights or replace with something properly bright as time and budget allow. I do very, very little night-time riding, and most of that will be on lit surface streets- it would be nice to have something extremely visible just for safety's sake though.

Mine had only a single hot wire, too. I added the second wire but didn't have to change the bulb as it was already a dual filament bulb. While I was at it, I added a blue LED high beam indicator!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the diagram! I am in the same boat. I bought a 2002 E last weekend and also want it street legal. I may use your diagram, if you don't mind. I'm terrible with electrical, but I think I can do it without buying a wiring harmess, with your diagram. :bonk:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the diagram! I am in the same boat. I bought a 2002 E last weekend and also want it street legal. I may use your diagram, if you don't mind. I'm terrible with electrical, but I think I can do it without buying a wiring harmess, with your diagram. :bonk:

Feel free! Good luck with your conversion!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok, another question:

I have this relay from a previous car project:

IPFWA10.jpg

It's a 4-pin relay, rather than 3; so pin B goes to the battery, pin L goes to the headlight switch, pin S goes to the orange ignition wire, and pin G goes to ground? Or will that ground out the entire 'orange' circuit and make everything not work?

Edited by sevenpointsixtwo

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:

Sign in to follow this  

×
×
  • Create New...