bearing removal

just got my new susp bearings and started the task today...all came out fine but the connecting rod bearing the heck do i get these out??? ok just so u all no what im talking about....lowest mount on frame to swing arm link...has the long sleeve...ok so anyway....i pressed out all the others with ease with my bench vise but when i put in the connecting rod to push out the bearings it would not i pulled it out and looked closer....ya it appears that the piece is machined inside so that when the new bearings are pushed in the ther is a spacer in between the 2 bearings but i dont think it is...i think it is a solid i removed the needles and started to use a punch at an angle with no forward i tried pb but probly wont do much since they are press fit...tried little heat but i am afraid of to much since the piece is alum....dont waanna warp or deform it....i tried beating it for awhile but have got no where....looked at some bearing pullers and what not but they are quite pricey...this is really got me the hell do i get these out???ive tried punches,screw drivers and well???? dont have much else to use since the cages are like only a 1/16 bigger thanthe center sleeve....i dont want to mess up the machined part of the ......ya u no what i marks and or scars i can prob just use a brake hone on but i dont want to mess it up please help...and 08 450 not that it probly matters..stock linkage...stock bearings...

Try the homemade bearing removal tool.

Long piece of 3/8 allthread.

some nuts for above and washers.

Use 2 sockets on one end a socket that is just bigger than bearing OD on the other end one just a hair smaller than bearing OD.

Toghten bolts to pull race through.

That won't work on the link he's having trouble with because there's a step in the bearing bore between the bearings. You could make a puller by the means described above, but there would need to be a variation:

The washer that does the pulling will need to have two sides trimmed flat so it can be turned sideways and pass through the bearing on one side. Then it needs to be cut down on the remaining round edges so that it can fit in the center portion of the bore and lay flat against the inside edge of one bearing. At that point, you can set up the socket, etc., and pull the bearing out.

Alternatively, a proper blind bearing puller is the real, correct tool.

Another way is to place the link in a temperature controlled oven at 275 ℉ for 25-30 minutes. Use an oven thermometer unless you trust the oven. Remove the part using gloves and drive the bearing out from the inside.

For the bold and very experienced mechanic, the bearing can be "shrunk" with an acetylene torch. This method is obviously risky, but effective. It requires a #1 or #0 welding tip. The link should be wrapped in a wet cloth to help keep it cool. With the needles removed, the inside surface of the bearing race is then heated in one spot 7-8 mm wide all along its length as quickly as possible to a bright red, and then torch removed as soon as that's done. Let the race cool, and you should find it much looser than it was. Done right, the natural thermal barrier between the two parts will slow the heat transfer, and the dissipative nature of the aluminum will prevent any localized damage. The key is to heat the race red within 15 seconds or less.

Thanks for the clerification Grey. I removed one from a '98 and don't think it had the step in it. have a 2008 now so Ill keep that in mind. But I also have the blind bearing remover Harbor Freight i think about $60.

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