'04 rebuild shopping list?

[corndog]

Fellas mind helping me put together a shopping list for a rebuild?

I suspect some of the wise folks out there might ask why the bike needs to be rebuilt, so I'll try to address that first. I bought the bike about 3 years ago with extremely low hours, stock tires and chain/sprockets (though really worn out). The bike has never had an hour meter, mistake on my part. Terribly unscientific, but I've always used clutch cover wear as a very rough refernce to seat time, mine is missing about 80%+ of the paint. I'd estimate that I ride the bike 30-40 times per year and the average actual run time is ~1.5hrs, which is 135-180 hours just in my posession. I ride 30+B mx and have a bad habit of jumping stuff I probably shouldn't, so my desire for a rebuild is more out of paranoia than anything, because the bike runs really crisp. My only complaint is that it's either down a few horse, or I've become numb to the power over the years.

Would you buy any case bearings? Any other parts?

Was planning on ordering these parts and would make sure to get the top end bearing as well.

I was thinking of ordering these parts, plus the ProX complete gasket set.

FIgured I'd order all the valve bits, do I need any cam parts? Should the cam and/or bearings be replaced?

I just installed a new cam chain and tensioner literally 3-4 rides ago, should I get a new chain anyway? Figured I'd buy a new cam gear and guides.

Would you buy any oil pump parts?

Edited February 23, 2012 by corndog

[GTXR]

I would do the top end! Are the valves still in spec? Or have they been moving? New piston/rings/cam chain/ Cam chain guides/ and vavles if necassary. If the crank and bearings are fine leave them. Just my thoughts.

[Shawn_Mc]

Well, if you just want to head it off...

A new crank, main bearings, a valve job ( valves, seats cut and springs) and if you wanted to be really through, more than you probably need to be, a new oil pump (5 and 6 in the pump list) A new timing chain, maybe the tension side guide and a manual tensioner depending on how yours looks.

A piston at 135-180 is more urgent. Even if it doesn't smoke, the piston is more than likely worn to the edge of the spec and it turning sideways in the bore is a more likely or probable issue.

Unless your trans digested something, the bearings in there are probably fine.

The issue with the crank is the rod being houred up. How tired is the rod? Hate to put a new top end on the thing only to have the rod give up shortly there after. But they can run a hell of a long time too.

[corndog]

The valves are still in spec, they just required their second adjustment after 3 years! It's been a solid bike, besides a water pump. I'm not a revver and I change oil & clean filter every two rides.

Thanks very much for chiming in, Shawn. I'll probably just go the paranoid route, really don't want the thing to let go on me. I'll defintely install an hour meter this time. The trnamission has never had an issue and the bike isn't showing any signs of actually needing a rebuild, except that I think it's a little down on power. It does smoke a tiiiiny bit when cold, but it seems like it's done that since I've owned it.

[BlackBuzzard]

I took my 03 to over 250 hours - all original parts except for water pump seal.

It still started up just fine even when the valve finally went to zero and I could push the kick starter over with my hand.

Crank felt solid and cylinder wall was magnificent looking.

So all i did was new cylinder head, full water pump parts, and oem piston.

But I trail ride with heavy flywheel......so I'm hardly bouncing off the rev limiter.

BB

[Shawn_Mc]

The valves are still in spec, they just required their second adjustment after 3 years! It's been a solid bike, besides a water pump. I'm not a revver and I change oil & clean filter every two rides.

Thanks very much for chiming in, Shawn. I'll probably just go the paranoid route, really don't want the thing to let go on me. I'll defintely install an hour meter this time. The transmission has never had an issue and the bike isn't showing any signs of actually needing a rebuild, except that I think it's a little down on power. It does smoke a tiiiiny bit when cold, but it seems like it's done that since I've owned it.

Once the valves start to move, they dont stop. Not if you had to take more than about .002" off the shim anyway. If you've had to shim them to pick up .005" of lash, a valve job is in the near future.

I just had to adjust mine .005' on one side. So I know a valve job is coming soon.

If you're going to tear it down, you may as well do the whole thing. (Top end and a crank) At that point, youve got roughly 650 bucks in it, but its basically all new if you do most of the work yourself. (You'll need to get the valve seats cut)