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perfect sweet spot for the 200 motor for woods?

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I have a 2012 200xc-w and I ride tight single track with lots of roots and lots of rocks. The problem I'm having with the 200 motor, is due to the auto-clutch and LHRB I have on it. I can't stab at the clutch, because there is a brake there. So I'm trying to get the bike to not bog off the turns... and yet not lurch into the "hit" in the choppy stuff.

It seems to me that the low end horsepower is too explosive for technical riding, but if you adjust the hit away from the bottom end with the PV, it just bogs. I would love to have more bottom, but more bottom that is controllable. I'm wondering if the only way to get the horsepower down into the lower revs is to bring the hit down there... and then maybe add a flywheel weight to calm things down in the choppy stuff.

Are there any tight woods riders out there that have dialed the 200 into the perfect sweet spot without having to ride a gear high and use the clutch?

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Where is you PV set? Can you post a pic of the mark located on the shifter side?

One affordable mod that will give you instant throttle response and help clean up the jetting is having the head milled. It will help.

A FWW will tame down the explosiveness, letting the bike get traction, making the power delivery more 250 like.

A trials tire will also help the bike get traction.

Beyond that, a G2 Ergonomics cammed throttle will help control the power delivery.

I would start with the head, then a FWW. Those 2 will go a long way to getting you where you want to be.

I am not familiar with the Rekluse's performance, but I can say that I had my 05 dialed and was a mtn goat of a climber. The more technical the terrain, the better it did. FWW let it spin down next to nuthin' and rev controllably, stupid traction with the TT, and the head mod gave it responsiveness that I had never been able to achieve with jetting alone. I am still working with my 08 to get to where my 05 was. I am almost there. Just added a 9 oz FWW and had the head mod done last fall, and a TT has been on it as soon as I found a 19" version.

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when you talk about having the head milled how much is the ideal amount to take off in millimeters or thousandths and by doing that what does it allow the bike to do differently?

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It is complicated. The tuners know how to mill the head to suit the results you are after. Most mill the head to about 1mm squish. But then the bowl will be shaped as well to optimize combustion, increase compression, or decrease compression to keep it from being too much, depending on the situation.

Wildcat motorworks is a tuner that frequents ktmtalk and is located in Kentucky I believe. i have used Cycle Playground in PA twice with great results.

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Also try RB Designs down in Oregon. He has done both my cylinder heads of my 2 bikes. Really does change the way the power is delivered.

Little Jeff

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Where is you PV set? Can you post a pic of the mark located on the shifter side?

One affordable mod that will give you instant throttle response and help clean up the jetting is having the head milled. It will help.

A FWW will tame down the explosiveness, letting the bike get traction, making the power delivery more 250 like.

A trials tire will also help the bike get traction.

Beyond that, a G2 Ergonomics cammed throttle will help control the power delivery.

I would start with the head, then a FWW. Those 2 will go a long way to getting you where you want to be.

I am not familiar with the Rekluse's performance, but I can say that I had my 05 dialed and was a mtn goat of a climber. The more technical the terrain, the better it did. FWW let it spin down next to nuthin' and rev controllably, stupid traction with the TT, and the head mod gave it responsiveness that I had never been able to achieve with jetting alone. I am still working with my 08 to get to where my 05 was. I am almost there. Just added a 9 oz FWW and had the head mod done last fall, and a TT has been on it as soon as I found a 19" version.

I have the PV dialed out... so the mark is nearer the top mark in the sight hole. This is where the bottom bogs. Then I dialed the PV in so the mark is nearer the bottom mark. This is where the motor has loads of bottom, but it is so uncontrollable and jerky... and if the rear wheel hits a few rocks, it just lights up the tire and gets tough to settle the bike back down. So it's not that I need more power, it's just that when the PV delivers power off the bottom, it is explosive and uncontrollable. .....also, I have a trials tire on it. and I have a 9oz fww that I have not put on yet.

I think I can get this bike to be a razor in the tight stuff and really fly in the fast stuff. I guess I'm trying to get it to deliver power more like the 250. (actually, like the 300, but I know that's a stretch).

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Adjust the pv to just above halfway and install the fww. Maybe do one then the other so you will see what each change does. I typically will test the pv in quarter turn increments. My 08 was similar to yours before i parked it for the winter, but the fww should square me. It did for my 05. That bike was almost unrideable without one.

Also, rear traction is associatdd to susp as well. A properly set up shock, ie revalved shock with the right spring will kkeep the tire in contact with the ground better. Too much rebound damping can do the same.

I'd say you are close. Jetting is also another area that can drastically affect power delivery. Richen up the lowend jetting for a keaty pull.

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I just ordered a g2 throttle... I'll bet that will help a bit. But I will try that pv setting with the flywheel and let you know how it goes. Thanks for the help.

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Gmoss has pretty much nailed it. All I can add is leave the PV nut & washer off tempoarily & adjust the PV in 1/8 turn increments, ride a bit, readjust in a flat field. Put the nut & washer back on, take a wrench on the trails with you & fine tune there.

You are running the mild ignition map in the woods? :bonk: I have the switch & can tell a big difference.

I run the #200 G2 cam. No FWW, but I do have a steel rear sprocket.

Jetting will definately help, plenty of good info at KTMTalk.com as well as here.

Mine used to hit hard, wore out a TT in short order, now it's much better.

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Adjust the pv to just above halfway and install the fww. Maybe do one then the other so you will see what each change does. I typically will test the pv in quarter turn increments. My 08 was similar to yours before i parked it for the winter, but the fww should square me. It did for my 05. That bike was almost unrideable without one.

Also, rear traction is associatdd to susp as well. A properly set up shock, ie revalved shock with the right spring will kkeep the tire in contact with the ground better. Too much rebound damping can do the same.

I'd say you are close. Jetting is also another area that can drastically affect power delivery. Richen up the lowend jetting for a keaty pull.

where do you get the weighted flywheel from? or what website rather

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Like SkiDaddy, I like the G-2.Doesn't take away or change the power, you just have to turn the throttle a LITTLE farther to get to it, giving you more control in the tight situations.I also use a steel rear sprocket, which gives a flywheel weight effect on the cheap and easy.As you can see, lots of options.

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Gmoss has pretty much nailed it. All I can add is leave the PV nut & washer off tempoarily & adjust the PV in 1/8 turn increments, ride a bit, readjust in a flat field. Put the nut & washer back on, take a wrench on the trails with you & fine tune there. You are running the mild ignition map in the woods? :bonk: I have the switch & can tell a big difference. I run the #200 G2 cam. No FWW, but I do have a steel rear sprocket. Jetting will definately help, plenty of good info at KTMTalk.com as well as here. Mine used to hit hard, wore out a TT in short order, now it's much better.

Is there a choice for ignition map on the 200xc-w?

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where do you get the weighted flywheel from? or what website rather

I typically keep an eye out for a used one on ktmtalk. You just have to know what you need. Otherwise, pick one up from Steahly Offroad.

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A lot of good info here on how to mellow the power. It was only touched on but jetting will go a long way especially if your using the stock jetting and NOZI needle. This needle tends to load up with extended low throttle use, then explode around 1/4 throttle when it suddenly "cleans" out. I suggest you join Ktmtalk and in the jetting forum search for the " '07 200XC jetting" thread, in fact it is only a few pages old. I suggest scanning through until you come to the needle "opinion" post. For reference the Kaw N3WH/ N3YH, JD 200 red, Honda 1370dka & eka and Sudco DDL and DDK are the most popular needles. Start with the basics, jetting, before bolting on every contraption known to man. However I do strongly suggest a MikeS head mod, but start with getting the engine running "right" first.

Edited by jersey_devil

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I ride nothing but loose rocks. The sooner I'm on the pipe the better. I set the power valve to open right away. I can control the power with the throttle a lot better than a spring on the valve can. My power valve stops me from stalling and lets me bog it below idle is all. I cruise off the pipe with a higher gear but as soon as it gets techy I need to be on the pipe to have max controll of the power. Down shift and be on the pipe at 1/8 throttle is perfect on a 200. That gives me the most controll on the nasty loose stuff. The knarly pipe brings back the low end so you don't need to delay the hit with it. It likes a low RPM hit. I think thats the way the pipe was designed . Learn the power on the pipe not milk the power when it's not.

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I don't know if it has been touched on yet, but I got my cylinder ported by Jeff Slavens. It has been a worthwhile, albeit expensive mod. It is $350 I think including the gaskets he supplies. He does not mod the head (rather he has you set the cylinder/comp height with gaskets), but he does smooth and shape all the ports in the cylinder and I have noticed a better low end torque and lugging type of response. I tried to ride my '09 200 like it was a MX bike at first, but after a while I kind of accidentally realized that it kicks ass a gear up from where I normally would ride keeping the RPM's low and riding the torque wave, and that is really where this motor does its best work, in my opinion. I bet you could do some mods and maybe get the power valve governor from the 200SX and make it a rocketship, but for me and the woods riding I do in the Colorado rocky mountains, it is so much easier, quieter, and funner to keep it low in the RPM and cruise in 4th instead of 3rd or 5th instead of 4th, etc. I also find that the low ignition setting is better than the high for most offroad situations. I know it got a different map and a pipe (stinger diameter at least), but I imagine it is not so different in years after '09 that this is no longer true. Keep it low in the RPM, experiment with jetting needles and jets. I use CCK-3, 42, 162 now for 5000 to 10000 ft and only make air screw changes. NOZx series needles suck for some reason at least for high elevation woods riding. You will grow to love this bike I can almost guarantee it, unless you are a 250 or 300 guy and weigh 200 lbs or more, but even then, the 200 can get you around just fine for most riding cases.

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A lot of good info here on how to mellow the power. It was only touched on but jetting will go a long way especially if your using the stock jetting and NOZI needle. This needle tends to load up with extended low throttle use, then explode around 1/4 throttle when it suddenly "cleans" out. I suggest you join Ktmtalk and in the jetting forum search for the " '07 200XC jetting" thread, in fact it is only a few pages old. I suggest scanning through until you come to the needle "opinion" post. For reference the Kaw N3WH/ N3YH, JD 200 red, Honda 1370dka & eka and Sudco DDL and DDK are the most popular needles. Start with the basics, jetting, before bolting on every contraption known to man. However I do strongly suggest a MikeS head mod, but start with getting the engine running "right" first.

Is there a way to find out which needle does what to the motor. I'd like to get the PV and needle to work together here and smooth out the hp, rather than have it explode off the bottom. My goal is to get it very strong off the bottom, but not explosive. It seems if I move the PV so it doesn't hit immediately off the bottom, it bogs a bit and then hits. So it's like it has a spike, and you can control where the spike hits by adjusting the PV... from lower rpm to higher, rpm... but it's still a spike. I need to round the spike off a bit so it will have a broader range of good strong power. ... I was hoping I didn't have to buy a dozen needles.

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So far for me the N3YH has worked out best at smooth, strong, torquey power. 200 pound rider in tight, steep, technical mountian riding.

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Yes, it's covered in the owners manual.

So are you running the more mild setting? I looked in the manual but could not find one thing in there about it. I did find out about it though. I will unplug the wire and try that setting. I am pretty close so that might really help.... but to me, the power spikes--rather than develops with any sort of control. And as I move the PV around, it just seems to spike at a different place in the rpms, though I have found a reasonable setting at about midpoint. Ideally, I'd like to see a dyno chart for both ignition settings, just to see what it's doing.

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