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Don't worry I'm calm and your misunderstanding me, imnnot here to bash the bike, I love it and have spent a foretune to keep it, I have had 3 and a 125 rm, but you don't seem to accept its not bad luck, its bad gears, some last and some don't, I fix dialysis machines, we have a fleet of over 200 off them, when 20% fail in the same way its not luck or operator error, its a fundamental design or quailty problem, the thing is more than a few owners have been or close to or seriously hurt, I very nearly went over the bars on a 50foot table top, I had zero warning, I hope readers take note, ignore this advice at your discretion! You are not wanting to face the facts you yourself have Proven!

Statistically speaking, anything less than a sure thing is luck. :bonk: Additionally, how to say the false neutral occurred during the "same way"? As I mentioned, there are 4 ways I know to get a false neutral. No one clarified in the poll. :lol:

On a counter point (this one is for you Mog), if I even think that my RMZ has a false neutral...it's gone (just like my KTM 350 and it's fuel injection...felt it hesitate near a jump...bye bye). Fixing and logic go out the door for me during situations like this. I know first hand what it is to lose power over a jump (fractured hip). :lol:

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...No one clarified in the poll. :bonk:

you are absolutely correct... later on in the poll i was getting too much deviation (different conditions for the problem) although the poll can still serve as a baseline it would have given different results, it would have been a lot better if i had clarified the conditions around the problem (oil type, detent spring mod, rider level, etc...). but just as you say, IF at some point it jumps out of gear on its own, the thing is being torn down for full investigation...

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The hard thing about the fix on the rmz is this, it takes a long time to strip a engine to the gears, then no one in the uk could do the work, so I had to send it to the us, it cost a small fortune, then it has to be built up and fitted, again not a quick job,i f it wasn't that I love the rmz so much I would have sold it 6 months ago , its not a easy fix trsut me! All brands have faults, sometimes that's part of the fun, improving them is for me a part I often enjoy, the rmz gearbox was hours on the net, hours on the phone, hours stripping and rebuilding and cost £700 with odds and sods, not fun!!

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I finally rode the bike for the 1st time yesterday brand new so just doing the 2 hour break in. Bike rode good no false neturals etc. bike handle better than my 2008. only got to do about 30 minutes of actuall riding and didnt have and false neturals. I will however replace shifter soon than later as i think it will put my mind at ease.

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my fix (for the false neutrals when shifting gears) cost me $5 (detent spring) $12 (15w 50 oil) and 1 hour in the garage... dont really need the longer shifter since i have a size 8 boot. 40hrs on bike so far and alls been good. cant wait for Saturday!!!

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my fix (for the false neutrals when shifting gears) cost me $5 (detent spring) $12 (15w 50 oil) and 1 hour in the garage... dont really need the longer shifter since i have a size 8 boot. 40hrs on bike so far and alls been good. cant wait for Saturday!!!

I have size 10 tech 10's and Feel the little bit longer hammer head shifter would just put my mind at ease when racing. Everything is different when your lined up at a gate. Last thing i want to worry about is me not getting full shift. Id rather just not have any doubt in my mind when racing. :bonk:

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okay so i posted like 20 days ago or so. Still doing it...

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It wont fix itself :-(

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Now that my 2 hour run in time as recomended by the booj, yet to have a any shifting problems still with the the shifting of the bike usin 10w 40 for break in oil. I took it to the track this weekend. Not one issue, bike handled great, amazing accleration, over reved alot bett than previous rmz's that ive owned and was really smooth. stilll no issues and ive put just shy of 3 hours on it so far. i think the next oil change i will be putting the 15w 50 oil as weather is starting to warm up etc.

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So i drained the oil , changed the fileter check the strainers after the run in. no filings at all. To be honest after reading the threads I was expecting some. Put the the 15/50 road all day sunday. not one false Nuetural andbike ran great. the bike is now getting its numbers put on and then getting stripped in preperation for racing. :thumbsup:

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A lot of bikes do over 75 hours with no problems, if you get to 25 chances are your ok

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A lot of bikes do over 75 hours with no problems, if you get to 25 chances are your ok

i know, just still on my mind. but my mind is also at ease when i have also seen a few 2010s that ive seen raced here on the island and they have never checked valves, never removed oil strainer, no clutch issues, no maintence other than oil and filter adjust chain.... never have had any issues with nuetural probelms and have done the same on the the 2011s and still use the 2010 for the practice bikes again no issues. so it cant be a major thing all rmz have or these bikes would have been roached ages ago! and they are getting 2012s as well...
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In some places 6 out 6 new bikes sold fail quickly, the hardening process is bad on suzuki, it could well be related to batches, my friend had one with over 50 hours on, its not guaranteed it will go wrong, but the odds are not in your favour, I have never had a gearbox go in 26 years of riding Mx bikes, maintained my 10 rmz better than all previous and my gearbox was basically a mess , 2nd gears teeth on both gears were ruined, all other gears showed excessive wear, it was like looking at a 10 year old gearbox, my front Tyre wasn't even worn out, the rubber lasted longer than the metal on the gears, that sucks

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how hard is it to put in the 450 gearshift drum spring? do you have to split the cases?

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No its not hard, just a tad fiddly

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where do you go to get to it.

I've not looked yet on mine as mine was already done when it had a new box. You'll need to remove the clutch cover under the clutch you'll see a lever with a bearing on the end that engages with a star shaped drum the spring you need to replace is the rotary spring that tensions the arm it's also worthwhile replacing the gear lever return spring as that can become slack too it's on the clutch side of the gearshaft.

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25.gif

Part 22 is the detent spring and part 31 is gear lever return spring. once a season it's also worthwhile replacing parts 12 & 13 infact I plan on replacing all the items once a season.

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Question? Is the return spring accessible without splitting the cases?

Edited by Dube340

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Question? Is the return spring accessible without splitting the cases?

Yes. You need to remove the clutch assembly to access the gearshift linkage. It should be in the service manual.

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