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Linkage bearing replace help

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IM going to replace my linkage bearings(i have done this before) but the U shaped part has lips that the bearing stops on making it so you can not just press the bearing out throw the otherside. Last time i did this it was a real pain because everytime i would hit on the inner lip of the race woth a flat punch the lip would brake off. So i had to use my di-grinder with a round stone just larger then the ID and smaller then the OD. This made the race thin and i was ablt to use a pick and get it out. I do not want to do this again because it took forever. How do you all get them out. All the other ones are real easy.

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IM going to replace my linkage bearings(i have done this before) but the U shaped part has lips that the bearing stops on making it so you can not just press the bearing out throw the otherside. Last time i did this it was a real pain because everytime i would hit on the inner lip of the race woth a flat punch the lip would brake off. So i had to use my di-grinder with a round stone just larger then the ID and smaller then the OD. This made the race thin and i was ablt to use a pick and get it out. I do not want to do this again because it took forever. How do you all get them out. All the other ones are real easy.

I use long sockets just wide enough to catch the needle bearing race and a vice to press them out.....then I would use the same method to press the new race back in.

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I use long sockets just wide enough to catch the needle bearing race and a vice to press them out.....then I would use the same method to press the new race back in.

that what i do on all the other bearings but on the U shaped part of the linkage you can not do that becasue there is a lip on the inside so you cant pass the race throw the other side. I thought i mentioned that?

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Ah Ok mine was in order.

As an idea could you use a U shaped pipe to press the bearing out?

are you trying to be a ass? U shaped pipe. If you just did them last week, how did you get the bearings out of #26?

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that what i do on all the other bearings but on the U shaped part of the linkage you can not do that becasue there is a lip on the inside so you cant pass the race throw the other side. I thought i mentioned that?

Ah, now I know what you mean. Try using a 1/4 socket extention (female end) so there is more surface area hitting the outer race.

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Not trying to be an ass just trying to help. If the have a round pipe at hand not too thick, not steel but iron you could bend it into the form where you have touching points on both sides of the race, or are both ends U shaped anyway?

I did not change # 26, that part of the link worked like a charm.

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Ah, now I know what you mean. Try using a 1/4 socket extention (female end) so there is more surface area hitting the outer race.

I have tried that once before and it just bracks the race lip right off. The only way i can get them out is using a dremmel tool and put cuts in it and chip little peices out 1 at a time. It took maybe 3 hours yesterday to get them out. Have you ever replaced the bearings in that part before?

Not trying to be an ass just trying to help. If the have a round pipe at hand not too thick, not steel but iron you could bend it into the form where you have touching points on both sides of the race, or are both ends U shaped anyway?

I did not change # 26, that part of the link worked like a charm.

Sorry for saying that/ the way you worded it i thought you were being a smartallec. Now i know what you are saying and i dont think there would be enough room.

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Not a problem, we all have sometimes probs to express ourselves :bonk:

Anyway I wonder by now how Yamaha puts the needle bearing into the part if there is on both sides a lip?

Are there on both sides?

no the lip is only on the inside of the 2 bearings. So putting them in would be like everyother bearing in the linkage but getting them out is a different store.

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Ok I got it, is the lip a tat smaller than the outer race? If yes a socket could give you the a way to press them out.

If the lip is not smaller maybe a screw (22mm?) could help to get them out but I think that you need to put the races first into some WD40 that they might get loser.

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Ok I got it, is the lip a tat smaller than the outer race? If yes a socket could give you the a way to press them out.

If the lip is not smaller maybe a screw (22mm?) could help to get them out but I think that you need to put the races first into some WD40 that they might get loser.

Yes the lip is just smaller then the race but you cant get a socket ti it because there is a bearing on both ends. So the socket would have to be smaller then the race to pass one of the bearings to get to the other side but this will defeat the purpes.

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Oh that's odd, I wouldn't have expected you to own a Harley and have such a peachy attitude. Have fun defeating the purpes.

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When ever I come across a difficult to remove bearing installed in a blind hole or any hole where the backside is difficult to access, I simply split the bearing race with a die grinder or a torch and then collapse it with a drift. Thicker walled bearings like ball bearings may or may not require a split in two locations.

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Oh that's odd, I wouldn't have expected you to own a Harley and have such a peachy attitude. Have fun defeating the purpes.

I’m sorry mister school teacher. Hay if you can’t add helpful information to a post then just keep your mouth shut.

When ever I come across a difficult to remove bearing installed in a blind hole or any hole where the backside is difficult to access, I simply split the bearing race with a die grinder or a torch and then collapse it with a drift. Thicker walled bearings like ball bearings may or may not require a split in two locations.

That’s what I did to get them out. I think if I have to do these again I’m going to buy a blind bearing puller set.

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Good Idea, the blind bearing puller could do it. Over here blind seated bearings are dealt with with welding. Not something I'd like to do to often but it works at least on stuck races like the waterpump one. Problem I see with those pullers is that if the linkage bearings are in there for a few years they kind of corroded to the aluminium. I gues you only have the races left in there? I rebuilt a few with the needles of other bearings which where undamaged as in OK.

Lay thick fat into the race and place the needles tightly around it. Some play is always there IMO. But only lightly. When I did my linkage I had those needle come right out. On the younger bike they were full with sand and compresed dust. I keep the races and needles in a jug of oil. Over here sometimes you can get those needle bearings most of the time they have a different size though.

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I’m sorry mister school teacher. Hay if you can’t add helpful information to a post then just keep your mouth shut.

Well then, let me add some helpful information for you; you'll catch more flies with honey than you will with vinegar.

Also, you could try looking for info from people that do this stuff for a living...

http://www.pivotworks.com/FAQs.aspx?ItemID=39&page=1

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I know it sucks to spend the cash, but this is the only way to fly...

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The blind hole bearing puller was like $65 and the press was like $100 at Harbor Freight. I bought the press and my buddy bought the puller.

Worth every penny spent!!!! I'll never pound out bearings again.

Edited by Pincushion

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