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2010 250, comment my setup and give me some ideas!

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OK,

I've been going back and forth with the idea of getting back on a thumper but after no success in selling the YZ (can't believe how low you have to go to sell a bike these days) , and looking at long term cost, I'm sticking to the blue smoker

I'm a slow Vet C, practice only, my racing days are behind me and I'm OK with that.

Just want to have a good time on WE and come back home in one piece to play with my one year old.

current mods:

suspension revalved. 5.6 rear and .47 front. (I'm 210 geared, 6ft )

GYTR flywheel weight

O ring chain (mandatory)

Michelin MS3

G2 throttle cam (#400 cam)

Stock jetting. (50/178/N3EW #3)

Motul 710 40:1 wit 50/50 premium/Sunoco 110

I tried the JD kit and never got a right setup. Always way too lean or way too rich

After many tests, I slowly came back to stock. Plug has now a nice brown tan

Biggest improvment was the 110 gas that really help cleaning the jetting (plug was black/oily with stupid Ethanol here)

Everything else bone stock, including handlebars which is a first to me

Bike is running strong but I want to make it a bit smoother.

I'm finally slowly getting in better shape (looking for 190 lb) but the 250 is wearing me out (so the idea of a thumper)

Suspension is a slightly modified stock valving. (since most rave about it).

Sag 100 mm. forks up first line

Still, I'm figthing the front end in some turns (wants to wash out)

I've been doing some search on this forum about Pipes/reed/porting and now I'm not sure where to start

I know that ultimate treat would be the 295 by Mr Gorr but he's pretty busy right now and I don't want to be without a bike for too long.

What would you recommend by priority level?

I don't want a SX weapon but more of a GNCC/Works bike.

  • I like the idea of a pipe/silencer but keep reading stock is the best. (I have a thing for the "Works" pipes but in Florida, stuff can rust just sitting in your garage)
  • V force looked good until I saw several "V Farce" threads?
  • RB carb and head mods?
  • Gearing?
  • Triple clamps with different offset?

  • Or simply speed up the weight loss program?

I am trying to get an overall smoother engine/chassis package.

Any input will be welcome :bonk:

Edited by mxstate

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I tried V-force but not too different from the stock reeds.

The weight loss program is a good idea :bonk: hard but nice.

Gearing can help and the 50/178/N3EW #3 jetting you ride quite hard anyway or not?

Edited by arnego2

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Jetting looks a bit thick to a Minnesote.

RB head mod to get you on pump gas. Same deal with an 8 slide. RB does that to your slide cheap. The carb mod improves throttle modulation IMO. I always do it just 'cause I like the guy. It may or may not be a cost effective mod for you. But it's affordable. And he's a good guy. :bonk:

If you even just do a down and dirt move of your timing mark aft 2mm (CCW) you can make smoother power and gain over-rev.

Adopt a stand up riding style. Just ride with one of your buds while standing. In a short time you will thin the guy does a lot of really wasteful things because he is sitting down.

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Jetting looks a bit thick to a Minnesote.

RB head mod to get you on pump gas. Same deal with an 8 slide. RB does that to your slide cheap. The carb mod improves throttle modulation IMO. I always do it just 'cause I like the guy. It may or may not be a cost effective mod for you. But it's affordable. And he's a good guy. :bonk:

If you even just do a down and dirt move of your timing mark aft 2mm (CCW) you can make smoother power and gain over-rev.

Adopt a stand up riding style. Just ride with one of your buds while standing. In a short time you will thin the guy does a lot of really wasteful things because he is sitting down.

Yep, jetting a bit thick but the leaner, the meaner this engine goes...

I forgot to mention I have the #8 slide

standing up is something I am working on, just still too short in the fitness department to make it last....

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RB head mod is a no brainer....just set it up to gas you will be using

Pro Circuit platinum 2 would be a great pipe if your stocker needs replacement

Leaner jetting might make it meaner, but it gives you the flexability to cleanly run a gear higher and still respond well. Then power will smooth out, the suspension will work better and you'll save energy. Just for reference, I'm running 45-172-2nd clip-#8 slide, C12 fuel..... mainly single track and hare scrambles

Edited by moto2000

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RB head mod is a no brainer....just set it up to gas you will be using

Pro Circuit platinum 2 would be a great pipe if your stocker needs replacement

Leaner jetting might make it meaner, but it gives you the flexability to cleanly run a gear higher and still respond well. Then power will smooth out, the suspension will work better and you'll save energy. Just for reference, I'm running 45-172-2nd clip-#8 slide, C12 fuel..... mainly single track and hare scrambles

Interesting jetting specs. I'll dig in my notes but I think I tried that and that was really lean.

Temps are on the high side here in Central FL for this time of the year, maybe I should try just one size under on all to start with.

What's the result of RB mod? His website is pretty basic (not a bad thing) but I'm not sure what to expect. I've just been reading that he's very professional. Racer oriented mod. or something that I could benefit from?

The pipe is in very good shape but I wouldn't mind spending a few $$ on a PC if it's really worth. Always good to have a spare anyway.

Edited by mxstate

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Don't look at the slide and head changes as mods. They are more like changing a worn tire or adjusting suspension

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Keep the stock pipe, I've tried the PC and FMF fatty, neither had as broad of power as stock.

At your weight/described speed, I would say you're too heavy on the springs, probably .45 front and 5.2-5.3 rear. Mainly the stiff fronts not allowing the front to settle. A lot of people don't like the way the YZ's turn, imo they just take a little more input, but reward you with better stability.

I'm really suprised that you couldn't find someone to trade you a good 450 for your bike. That's how I got my YZ250 last year, traded 450 for it. I'm very pleased that I went back to a 2 stroke. Hope to never have another 4 stroke race bike.

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Keep the stock pipe, I've tried the PC and FMF fatty, neither had as broad of power as stock.

At your weight/described speed, I would say you're too heavy on the springs, probably .45 front and 5.2-5.3 rear. Mainly the stiff fronts not allowing the front to settle. A lot of people don't like the way the YZ's turn, imo they just take a little more input, but reward you with better stability.

I'm really suprised that you couldn't find someone to trade you a good 450 for your bike. That's how I got my YZ250 last year, traded 450 for it. I'm very pleased that I went back to a 2 stroke. Hope to never have another 4 stroke race bike.

Not sure about the springs. I tried 5.2 and 5.4 and couldn't adjust the sag. I could always try one more time that's a pretty easy thing to do.

I got a couple of 450 offers but the bikes had lot of hours. Mine just passed the 40 H mark. all offers were assuming my bike + money . I don't think so...

Anyway I think that the easier powerband of the thumper would not compensate for the $ when major maintenance is due.

I'm not a pro mechanic but can do the basics on the YZ, where I would be clueless on a thumper.

Once can always learn but mistakes can be financially devastating on the 4 strokes

I have no regret keeping the smoker, just want to twea it to my (lazy) style

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Don't look at the slide and head changes as mods. They are more like changing a worn tire or adjusting suspension

Reading more post about RB and I got your point!

I am going to contact them and have this rolling pretty soon

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Yep, jetting a bit thick but the leaner, the meaner this engine goes...

I forgot to mention I have the #8 slide

standing up is something I am working on, just still too short in the fitness department to make it last....

The idea is to make the bottom nice and crisp so you seldom need to come on the pipe. Then make the engine transition to 'on the pipe' as smooth as possible. To dial in a good woods bike, worry about the first 25hp the bike makes. Do that and the last 20 or so take care of themselves.

If you are having trouble standing up for long periods of time while riding. You body position needs work. Develop a position that allows you to be able to let go of the bars. Don't let go of them. Just assume a position that would allow you to do so. You'll find that you sort of lead with your face as you dance down the trail. If you have a short loop to practice on. Try riding it without a seat on your bike to hammer the idea home.

Standing up and looking as far as you can see down the trail help a lot. Also seeing the trail as a trail with rocks and roots and logs in it rather than riding over or around each rock or root or log individually. You're riding the forest. Not the trees. It's a mentality.

Edited by shagger

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OK,

Bike is running strong but I want to make it a bit smoother.

I'm finally slowly getting in better shape (looking for 190 lb) but the 250 is wearing me out (so the idea of a thumper)

You did not mention what weight FWW you have, but you could possibly go heavier. Also, smoother is in the right hand and left foot - learn to make the bike pull and try to keep from the "cut & thrust" style of riding (if that's what you do). Just have to point out the ambiguity of the last sentence in your statement that I have quoted; the 2 smoke will get you in better shape than the four stroke at this point!

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