Trouble with rear brake lever adjustment 2004 wr450

Hey guys,

I'm having trouble getting the ergo's right on my wr450. I have the suspension On the right track thanks to Help I received in another thread, many thanks.

I'm trying to get the rear brake lever adjusted low enough to be usable without picking up my entire foot off the peg while in the seated attack position. Maybe i'm just not flexible enough, I dunno. I have the factory lever adjusted as low as possible, and am still having issues. Installed a tall seat to open up the peg to seat height, but still can't get to the brake without fully lifting my foot off the peg.

Here's a picture.....


I'm 6'2", 230lb

Any ideas how I can get the lever adjusted lower?



Edited by KGSloan

Is it possible to remove the locking nut from above the brake pedal and place it underneath, thus giving you a bit more adjustment. I don't know if there's enough room underneath for the nut to be turned to lock the adjustment in place though. Maniac

whats the "seated attack position"?

whats the "seated attack position"?

Likely not the correct term to use, I dunno. The position you ride in when navigating the tight/twisty single track....nuts on the tank, elbows up. Can't get my foot to the brake pedal without lifting my entire foot off the peg. Not the best for keeping control or getting on and off the rear brake a consequence, I am awesome on the front brakes (also from my street riding).

yeah, I had that problem too. I just ditched it.


I find this very interesting to me, as mine is almost the complete opposite! Mine is so unbelievably high, that no one but me likes it at all!!! Maniac

Hey any fix to lowering the rear brake lever to the 4 oclock or 430 position? (not the pegs)  I have an issue covering the rear brake while wheelieing, my foot wont bend far enough back when the front end is in the 11 oclock position to cover the rear brake (wearing mx boots) and I dont want to loop it.  Same with the "attack position" too.

I have mine adjusted to where the threaded rod is almost touching the clevis pin.  It's about a half inch below the peg on my bike.  I have more room to turn the clevis but I would have to shorten the threaded rod to go lower.

If you adjust the lever as low as it will go, the adjustment bolt bottoms out too soon.

So, you have to remove it, cut the threads back 10mm or so, so the adjustment will continue down.

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