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Hebo hydro clutch

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I'm planning to give myself a gift, the stronger EBC clutch springs on the 426 are making my fingers dead in tight singletracks.

Trailryder42 wrote a nice article on his Hebo setup - 6 years ago :thumbsup:

http://www.thumperta...lutch-honda-xr/

Trailryder42, are you still satisfied with the Hebo set? Still preferred to to the Magura unit?

Magura: http://www.maguradir...ack-clutch.html

Many thanks.

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Yes. Still satisfied with my Hebo. I went thru a couple incarnations of setup, deciding where

I wanted the slave cylinder.

Has it been 6 years? Guess its time to flush it and put some fresh fluid in it.

I never tried the Magura. I don't remember the reason for picking the Hebo over the Magura. Was probably price and the availability of a universal kit that I could adapt to the XR.

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Thanks for the reply. What is the latest and greatest position of the slave cylinder?

A quick internet search says Hebo is a better built unit, with threaded line fitments while the Magura has press fit lines, also the Hebo has a lighter pull. Magura has a decomp lever perch though...

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Don't know if its the greatest but i have my slave cyl mounted on a home made bracket, mounted on the front lower engine mount brackets. I'll try to post a pic.

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The magura unit on my ktm is easier to pull in than stock XR so either one should help you out quite a bit. I was really missing that clutch last ride with the XR in the single track. Makes a big difference.

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The EBC springs are advertised to be 10-15% stronger than stock, they solved the clutch slipping of the 426 for me.

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Don't know if its the greatest but i have my slave cyl mounted on a home made bracket, mounted on the front lower engine mount brackets. I'll try to post a pic.

Yes, please post a pic of this, thank you.

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The Hebo kit uses an AJP perch/master cylinder, and AJP now has a decomp lever cover (cost around $15):

res.capandseal.jpg

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Here's a pic of my current slave position.

Slave1.jpg

Where I have my decomp lever mounted. I may have to look into that new master cover. Wonder how hard it is to get.

decomp3.jpg

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Here's a pic of my current slave position.

Thank you! I'll get my unit early next week, I'm still to decide where to put the slave.

This guy put the slave right at the bottom:

http://www.misterfixer.co.uk/news/36-projects/59-hebo-clutch-on-xr400.html

Where I have my decomp lever mounted. I may have to look into that new master cover. Wonder how hard it is to get.

I've seen these only in a UK shop, but they haven't replied on availability. I think it won't be easy to get in the US, let me know if you need one.

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This guy put the slave right at the bottom:

http://www.misterfix...h-on-xr400.html

Heat was one of my main concerns too. I wrapped my slave in header wrap.

A good link with info on installation.

http://www.john-stic...h.com/Hebo.html

My original install report.

http://www.thumperta...lutch-honda-xr/

Edited by Trailryder42

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I've installed now the Hebo kit on the 426, and it works real easy and smooth as advertised. Did some tight woods and it does make a difference.

But, clutch is slipping at WOT. It was not slipping before with the cable setup, and I've disconnected the hydro clutch temporarily and slipping stopped, so the Hebo is the cause. In the slave cylinder there is a spring, which keeps the slave piston and the cable (and the clutch actuator arm) under a slight tension.

I'm thinking the EBC clutch springs are JUST enough strong for the 426, with the small added spring load (which is minimal actually) from the Hebo the clutch slip. So BajaTrailRider seems to be right again, EBC springs are not that HD.

I did try this: eliminated the cable tension, so that the slave spring won't be under tension at all, but this puts the slave cylinder too far out and it doesn't have enough travel to disengage the clutch completely.

Any other suggestions/experiences on this?

Trailryder42, can I please ask you to measure how deep the cable end is in the slave cylinder in your setup, in the clutch engaged (clutch lever out) position? Thanks.

Edited by Wallander

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Wailander try to get Barrnet springs for your clutch.When we got the ebc springs,they looked weak.When installed the clutch pull was weaker than stock.Good thing I did only one bike.So sent back all ten spring kits,Also ebc clutch plates,lasted 1 day.So ebc is on our do not buy list.

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Trailryder42, can I please ask you to measure how deep the cable end is in the slave cylinder in your setup, in the clutch engaged (clutch lever out) position? Thanks.

I followed the instructions precisely. I set the tension adjuster to the recommended 8-10mm. Then fine adjusted the tensioner sleeve so that when the supplied rivet tool was inserted, its head set flush on the rear surface of the housing bore, the end of the rivet and the cable end touch. That distance is 28mm.

I assume you recieved the same instruction sheet I did.

Edited by Trailryder42

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I followed the instructions precisely. I set the tension adjuster to the recommended 8-10mm. Then fine adjusted the tensioner sleeve so that when the supplied rivet tool was inserted, its head set flush on the rear surface of the housing bore, the end of the rivet and the cable end touch. That distance is 28mm.

Yes, did it the same way. But when the distance is 28mm, it means the slave cylinder spring is compressed by about 13mm, and that means a constant pull on the clutch actuator shaft and the clutch springs (the end of the actuator shaft is moved by 1mm from the neutral position), and this seems enough to slip the clutch for me. And if the cable is loosened (by the tensioner adjuster), the slave cylinder spring will push the piston and the distance will be less than 28mm.

If I understand correctly, the distance represents actually how tight the cable is pulled. If its larger, the slave cylinder spring pulls it harder. The hydraulics in this clutch engaged (clutch lever out) position doesn't affect anything, it's all about the slave cylinder spring. Am I right here?

I assume you recieved the same instruction sheet I did.

I received only a spanish version, which I've online-translated, but I would be most grateful if you could send me somehow an english version - many thanks in advance.

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Hope this helps.

I don't see a problem with slight variation in that 28mm figure for your specific setup. I think you just need to be sure the little red indicator in the rubber end cap doesn't get actuated. It's been a long time since I installed mine and technical details of install are a little vague.

HeboInstall1.jpg

HeboInstall2.jpg

Edited by Trailryder42

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Hope this helps.

Thank you for the prompt reply, it helped to confirm I was setting it up fine. This all magic with the rivet and distances, are just to set where the piston is moved inside the cylinder back and forth while working the clutch. Actually it can work in any part of the cylinder, only the standby spring force varies at different positions, there is no change to the hydraulics - as the other end, the reservoir is vented.

I will try the Barnett springs now, thanks for the tip, Baja.

But still, it's very strange that this minimal pre-tension from the small mastery cylinder spring transforms the clutch slipping.

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The Barnett springs will be with me in the next days, meanwhile I was thinking I would place the slave cylinder in a different position, to eliminate the need for the cable part completely.

I don't like (and because of the large header no space there) the position below the headers, heat, mud, etc.

I'm thinking about the large free space below the carb, on top of the transmission, the slave cylinder would fit nicely there, protected well. The clutch shaft would need a little modification, the top actuator arm cut and rotated by 90 deg, no big deal.

Before I jump into this, anyone sees any problematic points against this idea?

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