massive oil consumption in brand new drz....what to do?

I purchased a carry over '11 model drz back in march. I have exactly 88.3 miles on it right now. Went to hop on it to ride into town for lunch but checked the oil first. oil on stick. Hmm. Haven't done anything that should cause that but I initially hoped for the best. Bought a quart of 10w-40 like my dealer put in it during assembly thinking it would only take a little bit to put the oil back on the stick. Wrong. I ended up dumping the whole damn quart in the thing to get it to even touch the bottom of the dipstick. What in the world could cause this? And fwiw I check oil in my engines every time I ride. Sure glad I did this time but don't know what would cause this. Also I have not started the bike since this discovery and will not start it till it is resolved.

Obviously the first answer is "its under warranty so take it back to the dealer stupid!" Yeah I know except my dealer is a melting pot of scumbags and low life liars. The only reason I did business with them is because they were the only dealer in a 200 mile radius that had a holdover 11 model in stock. Everybody else was waiting on 12 models.

So what do I do here?

Thanks for any input.

You need to start the bike & let it run for a few minutes & then check it after you shut it off & it has set fow a few minutes.

That was I was going to say , what oil change procedure do you use

I have to actually run the bike around the block before I check to get an accurate reading.... The 3x3 method doesnt always work in my case. if You have an oil reading with a cold bike you have way too much oil.

With a dry sump you won't get the correct oil level reading when cold..

I make it a practice to check my oil level at the end of a ride ....

before the next ride I just do a quick check on ground under the bike for oil droppings before start up..

Well that may not be good. Forgive me for being ignorant about these machines. I rode sport bikes for ten years (no I was not a squid) but just don't have the desire to take those risks anymore. Last bike I had was an 05 Yamaha R1. Lots of fun and pretty quick but I enjoy tooling around my farm a lot too.

So lets say I did not allow the engine to warm up before checking the oil and due to the cold read it was low and then i subsequently added a quart of oil. If I should have checked it while warm then logic would say my oil reservoir is over filled. Thus I need to drain my oil which leads me to the question in the second reply: what is my oil change procedure? I have no idea. Never done it. Dealer said drop the oil at 100 miles and I am not there yet. What procedures are there?

Warm up the bike.... Drain oil from engine and frame (the drain bolts are pretty obvious) change filter and refill with two quarts fresh oil. The type of oil to use is a whole other debate, but most seasoned members will recommend a 15-50 syn to counter the shearing of the tranny. Replace the drain bolt compression washers... They are cheap and reusing puts you at risk of damaging the boss on the engine case that's threaded for the dain bolt. Torque for the two drain bolts is 13 and 15 ft lbs

You'll also need to at some point check and clean the frame oil screen.... Easy to do... But you'll need to replace some compression washers on the oil line.

Edited by obrianmcc

I hate to come across like an ass, but did you read through the owners manual after you brought it home? Have you looked at it yet? All that you have been told so far and what you are currently asking about is in the owners manual and if the dealer did not supply you with the owners manual they have a serious liability lawsuit coming their way someday. The rest of the little ooulies of this bike are in the facts & questions section, read up really good and hopefully then nothing will suprise you.

Thank you all for not flogging the FNG for honest ignorance. I appreciate the advice as this is my first dirt or dual sport bike.

This oil screen, do I need to check that now or is that a down the road fyi maintenance item? Also you mentioned starting the bike and letting it warm up prior to draining the oil. Is there any danger to my bike in doing that considering I screwed up and put in an extra quart? Really enjoy this bike and its the first brand spanking new vehicle I've ever had so I don't want to screw it up with my ignorance.


i would wait untill you have maybe 500 miles before checking the oil screen. If you are worried about the excess oil, just drain it cold, and add 1.5 quarts of new oil or so and check it per the correct procedure. alternatively, drain 1 quart out, if you can measure it, and then check it correctly.

Thank you.

I bookmarked that page for future reference. Thank you for the link junure.

btw- you don't want to be using high dollar full synthetic oil at this point - the engine isn't broken in yet. use a good quality conventional oil, and change it again at 300-500 miles and then again at 1000 miles, maybe then with a full synthetic.

Edited by steve_k

Thanks for all of the help. I'm surprised only one guy busted my balls. I'm used to the car forums where you make one wrong move and they work you like you owe them money then kill your dog....and if you don't have a dog they'll get you one just to kill it.

LOL ...

i would wait untill you have maybe 500 miles before checking the oil screen. If you are worried about the excess oil, just drain it cold, and add 1.5 quarts of new oil or so and check it per the correct procedure. alternatively, drain 1 quart out, if you can measure it, and then check it correctly.

Good advice.

On the crush washers if you use the conical oem, the pointed end faces the bolt head.

No one has actually explained why you can't check the oil before you run the motor. It is not unique to dirt bikes or dual sports. It is not even because it is a dry sump oil system. It is because a DRZ400 is both a dry sump oil system and the oil is carried above the motor. (common for dry sump but not universal). Because the oil is above the motor, due to gravity it wants to drain to the lowest point (the motor). There are check valves in the system to prevent drain down but they are not absolute and over time the oil will migrate from the frame oil tank to the motor. So the dip stick in the frame reads low but the system has not lost any oil, it's just not in the right place to check. When the motor is running the oil is pumped to where it belongs. It takes a few minutes to stabilize. Best time to check the oil is after it has been run for a few miles or after a ride.

Thank you guys for your help and patience. I got everything straightened out this morning and am back to good. Thanks again.

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