No Front Brakes

well i missed the race today because of faulty front brakes (no excuse but its a fast track) here is my problem:

I replaced my front brake pads yesterday and after putting everything back on they worked very little and didnt really stop the tire so i figured i would blead the brakes im not sure what the proper procedure is but if someone could tell me ........anyway i got air out and after about an hour of trying to bleed them i had appsolutley no brakes at all and i cant for the life of me figure out what is wrong. Please help........



Do you have pressure at the lever? Saying that you have no front brakes does very little for troubleshooting. If you just changed the pads, you should have better brakes...not a loss of braking. Is the level of brake fluid OK in the master cylinder? Hydraulic brakes on these machines are very straigh forward and should be relatively easy to troubleshoot.

I have no pressure at all on my brakes i have tried bleading them but still nothing

Sounds like you lost pressure due to the calibers sticking. You need to get someone to check that the pads are installed correctly. You should not have to bleed brake lines when changing pads. BUT, I would drain all the fluid in the system & refill with new fluid, bleed correctly. Fluid change will build up pressure in system --- get all air out of the system.

Yes, GA426 is correct that bleeding is unnecessary just to change pads. However, it's good maintenance to do since you are working on the brakes at this time. As you bled the brakes, did you keep the master cylinder fluid level sufficient enough NOT to suck air down into the brake line? As you go through the bleeding process, you MUST keep fluid in the master cylinder. If you've sucked enough air into the brake line, you will need to be patient and go through a lengthy bleeding process. If you have a Mitey-Mite vacuum pump or some other vacuum type pumping system, you can fix this quickly. I assume you don't, so we'll go from there.

you will need about 18 inches of clear vinyl tubing that fits on the schrader(Bleed) valve. Slip one end of this tubing onto the bleed valve and secure it with a small zip-ty. Now, make a loop in the tubing next to the bleed valve and secure it to something(I use a 5 gallon bucket and secure the loop to the handle that I placed right next to the wheel). This loop is to make a liquid seal so that air can't be sucked backwards into the bleed valve. Actually, I don't need to do this anymore since I installed one-way bleed valves, but I'm trying to get you through this as quickly as possible. Remove the master cylinder cover and fill it to about a third of an inch from the top using DOT 4 fluid. Use good quality fluid such as Bel-Ray. Now, pump the brake lever several times and then squeeze the lever completely and hold against the handlebar, crack open the bleed valve and then close right back while never releasing the lever. Once the bleed valve is closed again, release the lever and start pumping again several times. If nothing squirted out of the bleed valve, then you have excessive air in the system and you will have to slowly purge it out by doing this. You can speed this process up substantially if you have someone helping you. Just crack open the bleed valve and place your fingertip over the end of the bleed valve and have someone pump the lever. Your fingertip acts like a check valve and you don't have to open and close the bleed valve. Just have a pan to catch to the brake fluid, it's very corrosive. Once the pressure starts to build up, it will blow your fingertip away as the lever is pumped and you will have to start using the bleed valve again. This is a good thing because it means you have bled 99% of the air out of the system and now all you do is get that last little bit of air out. Keep the master cylinder level adequate, tap on the brake line occasionally to make the air bubbles rise, be patient, and you will get it. Don't be surprised it takes over an hour. There is an easier way, but I doubt you have the tools. Good luck.

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