AAAAAARRRRRRRGGGGGGGGHHHHHHHHHH !!!! O.K., now I feel better. Received my big order from Hipersports tonight and proceeded to install the new 51T rear sprocket, remove 13T front sprocket and go back to 14T front sprocket, put on new D.I.D O-Ring Chain, install Devol Radiator Braces and new yellow pre-cut backgrounds.

Freakin' Devol does not provide any pictures with the installation instructions. Thanks to some help from the fine members of this board, I eventually figured it out. POS manufacturer and their half-arsed instructions. Not to mention the shrouds don't line up perfect with the mounting hardware they provide.

Yamaha says to torque the bolts in the rear sprocket to 30 ft lbs. How the Hell am I supposed to get a torque wrench between the spokes and the hub to measure the torque ?? Tried to install the bolts in the star pattern, but hell I lost track after the first 3 bolts. I torqued the hell out the nuts for safe measure.

I positively hate trying to put the master link on an O-Ring chain !!! Yes, I butchered it and have to go to the local Yamaha shot and buy a new Master Link tomorrow.

Why are pre-cut backgrounds and/or graphics so damn hard to get on without wrinkles or bubbles ?? I managed to do a pretty good job, but screwing with it for an hour is not my idea of easy installation.

All in all, not a damn thing went smoothly tonight. If It weren't for Murphy's law, I'd have no guidance in my life !!!


Matt W

00 YZ426F

94 YZ 250


"Don't worry about me, how's my bike ?"

As far as putting on the rear sprocket, I use an 8mm Snap-On socket driver hex on my torque wrench. In case your interested the part number is FAM8E, it cost $13.50.


2000 YZ426F

2001 CR500R

[This message has been edited by Nevada426 (edited September 22, 2001).]

Or check your local Sears Craftsman, for the 3/8 ratchet drive allen heads. I got an 8mm hex for the small oil screen on my KTM for I think $7.50.

If you put on alot of master links, invest in a pair (or two) of needle nose vise grips. With some finagling (no clue how to spell that!) you can position the vice grips at a position that will clamp the plates tightly to the O-rings, and leave JUST enough clearance for the master clip, if done correctly, and with some patience.

As far as torquing the bolts, perhaps it would be of interest to purchase a 12mm (or whatever size nut is on your sprocket bolt) Crows Foot at Sears as well. Grind off the chroming, and get a piece of matching steel (chromium vanadium is it?) or something that would be compatable with welding (i'm not a welding expert), and have it welded on to the end of the crows foot. Make sure the piece of steel is long enough to clear the wheel, and then brace it with your leg/foot when you torque on the allen head. (as well as brace the other side of the wheel to keep it from spinning - assuming the wheel is OFF the bike) Cutting an appropriate open end wrench is the same, just have an "extention" welded onto it to brace the wrench.

Just my ways perhaps, but it's worked for me already.


'01 KTM 520 SX

'95 KX 250 FOR SALE!!! -asking $2000 with decent amount of plastics/decals, parts!!

AMA Dist 6 Member

Hare Scramble Class B #523

That is why I like Regina. The master links go on real easy on their chains, and they last forever which is also good. I ran out of vocabulary the last time I bought a DID. I ended up buying a little “chain press” tool from Motion Pro for twenty bucks just so I could deal with the darn master link.

As for the pre-cuts, I also had hell with mine. That is just how it goes trying to put a flat piece of plastic on a convex-shaped side panel. Did you use Windex? I can't imagine doing without that. Much harder than putting graphics on your tank and shrouds, IMO. SoCal (or DecalWorks or whatever) sends you a little squeegee that works great for pushing the Windex out and making the pre-cuts wrinkle free (or as close as possible).

To be honest, and promise you won’t tell, I don’t use a torque wrench on all kinds of things, rear sprocket among them. In my (probably misguided) view the only real harm you can do by over tightening these is to the bolt, as in breaking it. I do pay more attention to torque on case bolts, head bolts, pinch bolts and the like where how tight they are seems to be important beyond simply “tight enough” to prevent things from falling apart.

Lots of red loctite and tighten the hell out of them!!!


Mark...00 426 w/plates,and $4000.00 of other attachments!

If you use Chris' idea for putting an extension on the crows foot then just remember to keep it exactly 90 degrees from the torque wrench or your reading will be way off. If have he equation written down for how to correct for the extension if it is not 90 degrees, let me know if you need it and I will post it (was included in my torque wrench manual). :)

Ah, and I would recommend at least a blue locktite on the nuts, and at least tight as humanly possible. My KTM shed FOUR of it's 6 sprocket bolts in a ride...... And they are blue locktited, Nylock nuts.... Made a nice little gouge in my swingarm, but all is well.


'01 KTM 520 SX

'95 KX 250 FOR SALE!!! -asking $2000 with decent amount of plastics/decals, parts!!

AMA Dist 6 Member

Hare Scramble Class B #523


Like Hick said, squirt Windex on the panel, slide the decal around (for placement) and I use a bondo spreader (Autozone, very cheap) and squeegy out the excess, let it dry and it's on and no bubbles.

I live in York and would like to hook up and ride. I'm also a TC memeber. I can ride Sundays and Thursdays.




99 WR400f, YZ timed, MX-Tech suspension, Scotts steering damper, White Bros E-Series (12 discs), tapered header and a/f. Kouba T-handle for the fuel screw. Works Connection billet throttle tube and frame guards. Cycra Pro-Bend, triple clamp mount handguards. Thumper Racing rad guards, Renthal Jimmy Button highs, YZ Tank and IMS seat, YZ number plate, odo removed, de-octopussed (Thanks Clark) EKP #4, 50PJ, 175MJ, 100PAJ and 65 SJ at 500-1000' Thanks James Dean!


A group of us will be up at Tower City this Sunday 9/23 at 8am. Yes I know it's early, but we have the trails to ourselves at this time. You're more than welcome to join us. You can email me at home at williards@epix.net for more details. Hope to see you up there !!!


Matt W

00 YZ426F

94 YZ 250


"Don't worry about me, how's my bike ?"

The best way to install # plates back grounds IMO is to fill the bath tub with HOT water and place the sidepanles in the tub (with a little bit of soap mixed in w/it). Next peel off the protective coating on the sticker and place the sticker in the tub (the adhesive wont be damaged since there is soap in the water) Now the decal is flimsy and flexible and molds to the sidepanel (since it is in HOT water)! Now just squeege out the excess and it is easy to do! You can reposition the decal many times this way and you dont have to worry about screwing it up! Hope this helps,



I get my kicks on a 426!

Motoman393's MX Site

I agree with all the ideas thateveryone has they are all good but here is why i wrote.

I am SUPRISED that you got your order at ALL from those LOSERS!

I had the absolute worst experience with hyper and will NEVER EVER even call them again and have vowed to them and myself to give them ALL THE FREE ADVERTISEMENT I CAN STAND! and that doesn't mean anything good!

they SUCK!

Promised me stuff here in 3days and I had 10days til my first race of the yr so i had plenty of time!

called after 5 and it was on its way .........no big deal!

called after 8 and ON IT's WAY!!!! BS

called after 9 and everything but the airbox decals were on backorder!

W.T.H ....?

They flat out LIED to me!

I got all the parts from my local dealer and it cost me way more plus $65 overnite shipping charge.

To put it simply they burned me and LIED!

Nothing worse in this world than a LIAR!

To top it off they called me nearly 4 months later letting me know they had the COMPLETE order and if i still wanted it!

I asked the guy to look at the original date of the order.

I could here the POOP in his pants when he read the 120days to fill the order!

He then asked ........Well, do you still want us to send it?


HYPERSPORTS in colorado springs SUX!

Do NOT EVER order from them!


I'm done!

Ditto on that master link press! That thing is worth its weight in gold!

I've heard similar stories about Hiper, although I've yet to deal with them. My personal experiences with any mail order dirt bike business has been mostly postive, Whenever there was a problem, I either called them or emailed them and used tact and diplomacy. If you remember that we are all humans subject so making mistakes and talk to the rep from that angle, the results will be worth your effort. Try to resist being accusatory and you might be rewarded with a surprise. Rocky Mountain made a mistake on a large order of mine and when I emailed them about the mistake, they really bent over backwards to correct it. They added a very generous freebie to appease me. It pays to be nice.

yo hucker, i agree 100%. hipersports sucks, ran into the same problem. live and learn.

With regards to the O-ring master link, I have used the DID for years with no problems. What I use is a standard pair of vice grips and a nut that fits over the post of the master link. I just squeeze the nut over the plate/post with the vice grips. Works like a damn, and takes about 5 seconds per post.

Hope that helps!

I use a "link-less" chain. Bruce Ogilvie recomended using only this type of chain on my XR 650 so I figured why not on my 426 also? He swore I would never go back to a link once I got used to the riveting tool and hes right.

I figured out a neat little trick for installing the master link during my last chain replacement. I've always used a couple of vice grips to pinch the master link so I can get the clip over the pins but it's a real pain, as you all know. This last time, the clip broke while I was isntalling it, so I had to wait 'til the next day to get to the shop and get a new one. I left the vice grips on the chain overnight. The next day, I took off the vice grips and the clip slipped right over the link with no trouble at all! The little o-rings were compressed enough to allow it to go on very easily. From now on, I'm starting the day before and finishing the next day when I'm replacing the chain. I only ride one day a week anyway so it shouldn't be a big deal.

[This message has been edited by Rich in Orlando (edited September 21, 2001).]

I used Gregs "bolt method" for years before going linkless. The best nuts to use are the ones that come on the valvestem. They are low profile and easier to handle.

Once I even welded two nuts to some visegrips and it worked great for awile. Eventually my amateur welding showed as the welds broke.

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