Chain link (length) ?

[Joshtt]

So I am putting a new chain on, and am going to have the shop cut it down (all they have is an EK Chain 118). I know stock length for my 06SM is 110 links....BUT I am running 14-41. Should I go 109?

Thanks.

[CsHoSi]

I have an 06 SM too. Earlier this year when I swapped on my SM wheels with fresh tires I put on a new Regina chain, 110-link, with 14/39 gearing.

I was hesitant to cut out a link, chain seemed stiff so I ran it a little loose with axle all the way at back of swing arm for 100 miles or less. Then I cut one link out of the chain and moved axle to middle of swing arm adjustment.

So, I'd think 110 would be a good starting place for 14/41. I bought a folding trail-size Motion Pro chain breaker tool from here or rocky mtn. It was fairly cheap and works great. The first chain I cut I dremeled off the fat tip of rivet. The second one I just did, I was talking to this mechanic at my dad's work and he said no need. I did it w/o grinding and can tell you it came out easy with the trail chain breaker.

Where are you located? I'll be back in KC tomorrow. I'm trying to remember, I read a post I think Noble replied to saying 1.25" from rivet-to-rivet when you cut out a link, but said how much it would move axle in swingarm that I can't recall now. I can't find it again searching, I have it saved at home if you can wait till tomorrow night and think it would help.

Anyways, if you're in the KC metro and want to do it at home I'm willing to loan or come over. A member, 'goldwing??', came over and helped me put on my first set of SM tires and I'm very grateful for the local support and would like to repay. The second set with an SM bead buddy I was able to do myself.

Here's the tools I have, this pic still on my photobucket from when I posted about my dirt wheels swap and popped the stock riveted chain.

[Joshtt]

Thanks man! I'll cut it to 110 to start then and see.

I'm down in Springfield so 3 hours or so from you. Thanks a ton for the offer.

[Wayward Son]

chain length can only be even numbers. you cant acheive 109. 108,110,112 etc.

[CsHoSi]

Here's the post from Noble I was referring to:

Remember shortening will take out 1 whole roller link (2 pins) and shorten the chain by 1 1/4 inch and move the wheel forward roughly 5/8 inch.

https://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/890090-chain-adjustment/page__p__9263063

I found the 5/8" to be fairly accurate in my case.

I should be more clear with terminology so not to confuse, I always say a link but it's fairly obvious what needs to happen when you look at the chain.

[Joshtt]

Thanks guys!

I figured out the even numbers thing and went with the 110...now it is third line from back so good for now. But of course first ride....another flat tire #*^&%&$.

That's two in about a 60 mile stretch.

Should post another thread regarding this but if you guys know....I have a sport bike tire that was still almost brand new when it picked up a nail and since my riding style back then was a little risky I changed the tire rather than have a patch...now I could use that tire...maybe.

It is a 160-60-17 I am running 160-70-17 now. Any problems with the lower profile?

[Ryel]

Good time to ask "best way to replace chain": did not see an FAQ.

So, my old method is to remove the rear wheel slipping the old chain over the sprocket. Remove the front and rear sprockets and replace with new. Fit the new chain around front sprocket and, with rear wheel on minimum adjustment, wrap new chain to center/med of rear sprocket, remove excess links and put in new master link. With o-ring chain use press on/rivit master link.

what else do I need to know/understand/do?

thanks

[Joshtt]

Good time to ask "best way to replace chain": did not see an FAQ.

So, my old method is to remove the rear wheel slipping the old chain over the sprocket. Remove the front and rear sprockets and replace with new. Fit the new chain around front sprocket and, with rear wheel on minimum adjustment, wrap new chain to center/med of rear sprocket, remove excess links and put in new master link. With o-ring chain use press on/rivit master link.

what else do I need to know/understand/do?

thanks

No need to take off front sproket unless you are changing it. If your old chain has a master link then pop the clip off and press the master out. If not, stock sm does not have a master link, then you have to take off the swing arm (not as bad as it sounds). if you are running a S or E bike the chain is 112 links, sm is 110. Your new chain will have a master link so just thread an open end on the sprocket and rotate the tire to feed the chain around. I had the shop press the extra links on the long chain out (the least they could do at those prices). If the chain is not urgent I would order from the TT parts store at the right length.

[ptgarcia]

No need to remove the wheel, either. But you will have to cut the factory chain off since it doesn't have a master link. You'll need a chain breaker and press tool like shown above.

[Ryel]

No need to remove the wheel, either. But you will have to cut the factory chain off since it doesn't have a master link. You'll need a chain breaker and press tool like shown above.

If you don't remove the wheel, how do you replace the old sprocket?

Are you saying to break the old chain to remove it? Then replace w/o new sprockets?

thanks

[ptgarcia]

If you don't remove the wheel, how do you replace the old sprocket?

Are you saying to break the old chain to remove it? Then replace w/o new sprockets?

thanks

Sorry, I wasn't thinking about replacing the sprocket, just the chain. But yeah, break the chain for removal. No need to remove the swing arm, that adds a lot of work. And you really don't need to completely remove the wheel to replace the sprocket, either. I have changed them before by just pulling the axle half way out and removing the spacer then slipping the sprocket out. Don't remember why I didn't just pull the whole wheel off but it shows you can do it that way.