Anybody have any success changing brake pads for better braking performance. thanx
stock yamaha all the way. I've tried renthal, ebc and galfer, all squeak and fade on a tighter track with heavy braking. never had a problem with stock pads. also never use the pins included with the abc kits, the threads are sometimes cut all wrong, they must not have very good dies wherever they make em, I've had them strip out my caliper before... lesson learned, always stay stock.
Before the '08 model came out with the smaller caliper, the trick was OEM Honda CRF pads. I'm not sure if there's a Honda pad for the new smaller unit, but you might try taking yours to match them up with a set.
I tried AP pads on my 2012 because they make great street pads, but didn't notice a massive difference. Better modulation maybe, and perhaps better outright stopping power, but honestly for offroad it's not easy to tell.
If Vesrah made HH pads for newer offroad bikes I'd be all over them as their street pads are flat out amazing.
Not impressed with front brake on '10 and up 450. Not sure if it's the smaller reservoir in the later models or what, but no amount of bleeding produces a feel to my liking. I went with the EBC MX-S pads and got a little improvement, a steel braided line gave me a little more improvement, but I finally gave up and went all in with an over-sized rotor. I'm now happy. Having said that the feel is still spongy...but progressive at least.
yep thats what i feel as well, it seems to be the reservoir. I've got a 07 honda I'll try to get to work.
So that you know, the size of the reservoir has nothing whatever to do with the feel of the brake. The only risk presented by a smaller reservoir is that the brake fluid level may drop low enough to let air into the system as the pads wear and the pistons gradually work their way outward.
On the other hand, the size of the master cylinder bore has everything to do with it. Hydraulic systems work on ratios much the same as mechanical lever/linkage setups do. A master with a bore 1/5 that of the caliper (pulling numbers out of space) will have a more solid feel but less leverage than one that is 1/10 the size of the piston. If the lever allows you to apply a force of 50 pounds on the piston, and it has an area of 1 square inch, you will be forcing 50 psi onto the caliper piston. If the caliper piston is 2" in diameter, that's 6.28 sq/in of area, and a total of 314 pounds of pad pressure. If you cut the master cylinder piston to .75 sq/in, the 50 pounds produces a pressure of 66.67 psi, and results in 418 pounds of pad pressure.
This is the reason using Honda master cylinders was popular with YZ guys prior to the '08 models. The smaller bore size was what made it work. I don't know if there is an equivalent smaller master for the newer models.
I really want to know the answer to that one, I'm stuck with the same problem: went to oversize/braided line with only marginal improvement. I can still touch my knuckles with the lever using medium pull and have anemic stopping power at best even though I bled the line thoroughly with a vacuum bleeder.
Frustrating, to say the least.
Well I pulled apart the yz and the 07 Honda brake systems,and yz pads are 2/3's the size of the Hondas I was able to get the honda pads to fit by using the Honda retainers. I havent tested this set up yet. I'll keep ya updated...
Stock Yamaha pads work great for me. I tried aftermarket and took them out and replaced with OEM. Felt great again.
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