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KX65 Stator?

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Hi, My son have a 2009 KX65 and it been bogging once the engine get really hot.

-I have completely clean and adjusted the carb.

-check the water pump

-check the gas overflow

-check the plug

I check the resistance on the Stator.

Cold: 367ohms

Warm: 403 ohms

Hot: 506 ohms

The Manual state that the correct reading should be between 288 and 432 ohm.

Question: By being 74 ohms over the recomended reading when hot, do I have to replace the stator?

Thank you

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I have check compression and it on the low side 112 psi Should be between 109 and 171psi.

Does low compression make it bog when the engine is hot?

Do I still need to change the stator at 500 ohms?

Thank you

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The nature of any coil is for the resistance to increase as it heats up, this is normal. The problem you are having really can not be diagnosed with and ohms meter. The only way to know if it is the stator causing the problem would be to replace it. If you decide to go the stator route we offer the replacement source coil for the stator for $39.

http://www.rickystator.com/catalog/kawasaki-kx60-source-coil-p-232.html

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I have the same issue on a 2003 on a fresh rebuild will less than 4 hours on it. Ran good for an hour last night then started to bog. He was doing laps on our field track at a good clip, then started to bog when he was doing hillclimbs. Probably was getting the motor or coil warmer. I ordered a coil just to have one to swap, will do some additional electrical testing tonight.

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Over the years I have seen near 0 electrical issues with the KX65. That doesn't say it can't happen, because anything can happen. Carb issues many times. Top end issues many times. Even clutch issues. A rare but occasional reed issue. Really rare when we had the V-force (like never an issue).

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My nephew had a kx60 which would lose spark when it got warm. He sold it instead of trying to figure it out.

On our 65, the stator checked ok, the coil was out of spec. But then, most coils I have checked were out of spec and still worked.

I will replace the coil and see what happens. I thought for $20, It wouldn't hurt to change it to rule it out.

I will check compression, but it seemed odd to me that it ran alot then quit. I thought low compression was just the opposite, won't run when cold, but will when hot.

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Thank you everybody.

The problem was the breather valve on the tank afterall. The small ball in the valve got stuck sometime and created a vacuum not letting the fuel flow to the carbs.

Bike run great.

Thank you

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Tried a new coil, but it turned out to be the stator. Got a new one from Ricky Stator and the boy is back to tearing it up...

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