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Will an air striker carb solve my jetting problems


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Man thats hard to say. Your pilot affects the main but the main doesnt affect the pilot. Can you look into the back of the carb and see that the choke plunger is completely seating in the bore when the choke is all the way off? I know that depending on where you have those set they can really affect the mixture. They are really an enrichening screw with a choke function, and thats the one thing I didnt like about my stock PJ. Your situation sounds like somethings just not right somewhere. A lean condition will cause a bike to pull like a freakin freight train but not for long. what is your stock main and pilot supposed to be? Going to Boyeson power reeds caused me to drop a pilot size, but my main stayed stock. Sorry it took me a few days to get back, but I started a new job and have put in some hours. Where in Mich are you?

I'm just outside of lansing

When I bought the bike it had

42 for the pilot

2nd clip down on the stock needle

152 main

All my mods are

Fmf fatty pipe

Pro circuit silencer with spark arrestor

Boyeson power reeds

10oz fww

I think I'm gonna try a fatter main and drop the needle back down alil and see if that has any affect on it

And I have no idea on where to start when adjusting the choke knob in relation to the a/s . I have been doin the a/s first and then trying to fine tune with the choke knob but idk it just seems to mess everythig up

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It sounds like your on top of things and I think you will have it soon. Make sure the enrichening valve/ choke is working correctly and not damaged in any way. Let us know what you find.

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the choke knob has a big affect on mixture so you will need to experiment, but I would make sure it is closing all the way first. As far as the power jet goes I think they only come into play at higher RPMs but I am not familiar with them enough to say. A TTer named Zig06 is good with them, and he is a Michigander. ?

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Well after reading all the good reviews on the a/s carb I ordered one cause my ol lady is ready to go riding and I've hOnestly tried every jetting combo I can think of an it's such a narrow window to nail down that I'm over it ...I may work on it today but it's lookin like rain so we will see...

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Will do. I was figuring if the two carbs are basically the same base model PWK keihin's I'd try what was my best jetting was... But I could be wrong an maybe should go alil richer since I am dropping two jetting circuits? (the choke adjustment and the power jet circuit in which I think leans the main jet controlled by the cdi after 8000rpm . That's what Im understanding from the manual... Or am I off ?

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The enrichening /choke knob thingy will affect all circuits if the adjustment allows it. The power jet I know nothing about, but the airstryker will eliminate that because it has normal choke. Who did you order the A/X from? My A/X has worked great and is simple.

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The enrichening /choke knob thingy will affect all circuits if the adjustment allows it. The power jet I know nothing about, but the airstryker will eliminate that because it has normal choke. Who did you order the A/X from? My A/X has worked great and is simple.

I ordered it from TandT atv.com. They had it in stock and it was the cheapest I could find at 209.95 New.. What did u get urs for?

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I bought mine used when another TTer bought it for his RM125 and didnt like it. A 38 mm is too big for a 125 so I ended up with it for about half and used once. Just check the jetting over before you install it and let me know what is in it. Also get into the habit of turning on the gas and leaning the bike over at about a 45 deg. until you get a dribble out the overflow. This insures that the bowl is full before you start the bike. If the bowl isnt full and you have the choke on the bike will rev to the fricken moon until you turn the choke off. These carbs were notorious for this on all bikes they were on. Since I started doing this I havent had any problems.

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Lol ok I dont know if it makes a difference but I always drain my float bowl at the end of the day so I don't have to deal with plugged up jets and I always shut the petcock off any time I stop... my stock pwk has never reved to the moon before... I have my float set right at 16mm an I see this carbs stock float setting is the same.. Well if it does rev to the moon on me atleast I'll know why lol..We will see what happens when I get it on..

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Alright I got the carb yesterday and I finally had a min to get it apart and see what its jetted with:

Pilot-48

Main-180

Slide-7

And the needle has a 4 numbers stacked on top of each other from top to bottom are: A715 , 289r , A327 , A487

Not sure which number to go by on the needle....

Edited by jonnyukon
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Well I got some major jetting time in today and I'm very happy with this carb swap .

Jetting is spot on with:

Pilot 42

Air screw 1 1/4 turns out

Needle A715 289r needle in the 4th clip down

But the main I only have form 150-165 and the 165 is still to lean... So I tired the 180 that came in the carb and it really good but is alil bluburry on the very top end but I'd like to try one up and one down alil before I settle ... This carb was a pleasure to jet and I could defantly tell a difference in every adjustment I made and I cannot say wether this carb did or didnt not give the bike a lil snappier feel and def more power over all because I know the jetting in the first carb was off and I couldn't get it cleaned up but after about 3 hrs on the new carb I'm where I wanna be .. The Bogg is completely gone and the bike just plane runs better . Two thumbs up for simplicity in this case.

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Alright man I am diggin it!!!! Just error a tid bit on the rich side on the main because sand pulls hard on a motor and tends to heat them more. I knew you would like the A/X though and it is easier to maintain for differing temps/humidity. I think when you get some time on the bike you will notice the carb being better than the stocker low and mid ranges. ?:D

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Alright man I am diggin it!!!! Just error a tid bit on the rich side on the main because sand pulls hard on a motor and tends to heat them more. I knew you would like the A/X though and it is easier to maintain for differing temps/humidity. I think when you get some time on the bike you will notice the carb being better than the stocker low and mid ranges. ?:D

Oh yea it has alot more bottom and mid range than before but that could be from the jetting being on. I'm just waiting for my mains to come in thrusday an ill fine tune the top end an see how much better the top end is too... I ordered 168-190 I'll think that will do ... I am already very happy with this carb . It only took me hrs to accomplish what I couldnt in months of tuning on the stock carb..

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so i got the measurements on the needles first needle is the stock suzuki needle

oem# 13383-37EQO

needle# N3WK

diameter from top down

1- 2.74mm

2- 2.62mm

3- 2.29mm

4- 1.79mm

toal length

65.60mm

this needle in the stock 00 rm 250 was just way too lean so i bought a air striker carb for a swap out and the needle that came with the air striker is

A715 289R A327 A487

from what i can find this is the stock 00 cr250 needle from a mikuni carb... is this true?

well the bike does run alot better on this needle but is still just alil lean overall and will ping alil after fully warm from 1/2 -3/4 but wot is good..

the stats on the A715 289R are

oem#16203-KZ3-J21

needle# A715 289R A327 A487

diameter from top down

1- 2.70mm

2- 2.62mm

3- 2.36mm

4- 1.80mm

total length

65.65mm

i would really liko find a starting point from the A715 289R needle but in the 3 digit keihin needles... if anyone can point me in the right direction it would be greatly apprecated...and from what little info find the closest needle would be a keihin DGK but idk ...

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A DGK is what mine came with and it was too lean. I ended up with my stock needle(R1467N) and it worked perfect. You should be able to pull up a keihin needle chart that will break down numbers and crossreference new and old numbers. I will look and get back, just been working alot.

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