W85W58

2012 WR450 Starting woes

519 posts in this topic

A I have two dealers.....one is so damn retarded that they are claiming they have a different tool even though it's the same one in every image I've seen....

The other claims that as a dealer they are not legally allowed to change this setting as it affects the emissions on a vehicle which I could setup to ride on road.

Looks like I'm buying one.....shit

Even though you will only adjust the CO once or twice, the fault code side of the tool is handy to have, especially if you have dealers like the ones you mentioned.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm curious as to how you could set up a WR to be ridden on the road in California.   That's a lame excuse, since it's not a plateable bike, anyway. 

 

It does affect the Green Sticker status, but if you have the race ECU, that's down the tubes already anyway.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Is anyone willing to loan theirs with a security deposit? I would pay $20 for using it. I have many ebay transactions as well as 70 or 80 transactions on rcgroups.com.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

honestly i would do the same.....i have 500+ positive feedbacks on ebay and will even give you the $150 and then you refund whats fair after i return the tool.

 

such a pain

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Have any of the 2012 owners moved on to the 2014 model?  Is the starting issue fixed?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

My 2014 sometimes has trouble with warm starts. I will be getting the CO tool to change it myself. I did not own a 2012.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

My 2014 sometimes has trouble with warm starts. I will be getting the CO tool to change it myself. I did not own a 2012.

 

 

The CO tool did not help my starting at all, in fact, increasing the CO made my starting worse.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The CO tool did not help my starting at all, in fact, increasing the CO made my starting worse.

That's odd.  Reset mine to 10 and it was drastic improvement.  What is really needed is a sniffer to check the CO level before and after adjusting.

1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

What is really needed is a sniffer to check the CO level before and after adjusting.

 

True

1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Have any of the 2012 owners moved on to the 2014 model? Is the starting issue fixed?

I have the 14 and once I get her hott she will not at all fire with the button. I have to kick it. I just came across this thread today and Im going to call b&b cycles tomorrow to see if they can put my CO to 15 as suggested by others here. I'll post up results. Btw. My 14 has 67 hard earned hours.

Edited by Jonesy11

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have the 14 and once I get her hott she will not at all fire with the button. I have to kick it. I just came across this thread today and Im going to call b&b cycles tomorrow to see if they can put my CO to 15 as suggested by others here. I'll post up results. Btw. My 14 has 67 hard earned hours.

 

15 is too high, and I believe that much should be considered a "race" setting, intended for racing conditions. That is, if you're heading to a race, then set it higher. if not, then lower is better.

 

7-9 should be a good setting for a cycle, for non-race conditions.

Edited by mebgardner

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Really stupid idea: Do you have ALL of the stock hardware? Can you restore the bike to 100% stock condition as it rolled off the floor?

Question: Will this problem be the same if the bike is in stock shape?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Can you easily put the bike back to bone-stock just like it rolled off the floor?

Would the problem go away?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

15 is too high, and I believe that much should be considered a "race" setting, intended for racing conditions. That is, if you're heading to a race, then set it higher. if not, then lower is better.

 

7-9 should be a good setting for a cycle, for non-race conditions.

No way, a CO of 15 is not to high. The sniffer at 20 is right there but its a little to fat to me. I don't race and run 15 as do many that have PM'ed me about my vlxjim map and CO 15 setting. Everyone that has used this setting that I know of is likes at the results.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

And don't forget the the bottom left setting in your fuel map does crossover into the Idle at 2000 RPM. I run about 1950 RPM BTW. 

 

       2K       3.5K         5k      and so on

        -           -               -

     -    -      -      -       -      -

  -          -             -               -

-      -      -      -      -                 -

Edited by vlxjim

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

No way, a CO of 15 is not to high. The sniffer at 20 is right there but its a little to fat to me. I don't race and run 15 as do many that have PM'ed me about my vlxjim map and CO 15 setting. Everyone that has used this setting that I know of is likes at the results.

 

OK, you've got my attention.  So, when the sniffer is attached, and you have 20 dialled in for the CO setting in the FI system, what does the sniffer indicate for the CO % reading?  What does it read when you have 15 dialled in? (I'm hoping it's linear).

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Really stupid idea: Do you have ALL of the stock hardware? Can you restore the bike to 100% stock condition as it rolled off the floor?

Question: Will this problem be the same if the bike is in stock shape?

I can return it to stock but then it will overheat and backfire all the time. I talked to my local Yamaha dealer and as stated here the head mechanic agreed plus 15 and I am starting to race D37 not to mention every time this poor bike gets ridden its a race simulation with the group I ride with.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

20 was to fat it was around 5.3 % or so. At 15 we were 3.7 with a 3 in the lower left bottom of the map.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Really stupid idea: Do you have ALL of the stock hardware? Can you restore the bike to 100% stock condition as it rolled off the floor?

Question: Will this problem be the same if the bike is in stock shape?

 

I still have my stock muffler, ECU and snorkel. Could all be put back to stock easy enough. I would never put the throttle stop back in though.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:


  • Similar Content

    • By short450
      SOLD ON EBAY - PLEASE DELETE AD.  THANKS
    • By Matt Chamcham
      Have some damage on the outer / upper fork tubes on a '12 WR450F. New OEM replacements are pricey. Will any older YZ outer tubes work as a replacement? They are (more) plentiful on fleabay. 
      The forks will eventually be fit on a upper clamp of 54mm diameter. So tubes being 54 or 56mm top will both work fine. 
      Thanks. 
    • By yz480doinwork
      Brand new Cylinder Works complete top end cylinder kit for 2006-2009 YZ450F and 2007-2015 WR450F. Stock bore and stock compression. Includes everything you need; cylinder, piston, rings, wrist pin, clips and top end gasket set. Retail price was $560, I will sell it for $500 and ship free to the lower 48. call or text 406-223-8789
    • By Dmax
      Since the 2017 series is over I figured I'd share my experience/time racing the series... some entertainment for those who aren't riding as much anymore this time of the year.  This is my first time racing a series and pretty much racing in general.  I entered the Open B class on board my KTM 300 XC and was able to compete in 8 out of the 9 rounds held.  I do include more footage of each event at the end of some vlogs... so if you were there watching or racing, you are probably caught on camera.  Enjoy!
       
    • By MX Rookie
      Hi, I am 13 years old and I am trying to decide what bike I want to get (two stroke of course). I'm 5'2 - 5'3 tall, and I weigh 125lbs.  I'm a beginner at this, meaning this is my first bike but, I have ridden a dirt bike a few times. My choices are the yz85, cr85, kx85, kx100, sx85, and the sx105 (Yamaha, Honda, Kawasaki, or Ktm).
      I am not interested in the rm because I just don't like it. It seems like a cheap crappy (sorry if I offended you) and it doesn't seem to have the speed and power that I want ( at least that's how people describe it to be). So please don't include it in.
      I am going to buy a used bike on Craigslist or somewhere because this is my first year and I'm not the richest of families (in case that helps.)
      Right now, I'm confused about which bike to get because they're all good brands. I want to be fast on the track (obviously) and I want to be aggressive. Which bike will fit that role? Can some also explain what top end and bottom end power is and what it helps with when you are listing a bike? Can you include the pro and con of it?
      I'm also not sure if an 85 is the right size for me, as I want to grow into a bike and have it last me. Maybe I should get a 125, if is so, which one (again, no Suzuki rm)? I'm going to a dealership to sit on some and try some (not too sure about trying some) Saturday but I just want thoughts about this.
      I don't know ANYONE with a dirt bike so the internet is my only friend here so I am really counting on you. My mom doesn't know anything about dirt bikes or the sport so I have to really look at this stuff myself. If you have any tips, please leave some as they will be helpful for me or any other onlookers in the same situation as I am in.