• Announcements

    • Bryan Bosch

      NEW SITE FEATURE   09/19/2017

      Checkout the ThumperTalk Photo Gallery! Share a single photo, create your own album, or just checkout what others have shared.
W85W58

2012 WR450 Starting woes

516 posts in this topic

Yes, I'm in UT and ride at altitude. So, I'm not sure if it's effective at sea level, but it couldn't hurt to try. I don't have to line up the marks on grip I just crack the throttle about an 1/8. As in my previous post on oil, I'm finding that it is starting easier running the Yamalube 0/40 synthetic.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The tolerances on these new bikes are really close.

The more you ride them, the easier they start and shift.

I am only on my second tank of gas and I have noticed about a 50% improvement.

I am at sea level, so altitude may make a big difference.

Does anyone on this site have over 500 miles on his bike yet?

If so what are your experiences.

Edited by 123honus

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The tolerances on these new bikes are really close.

The more you ride them, the easier they start and shift.

I am only on my second tank of gas and I have noticed about a 50% improvement.

I am at sea level, so altitude may make a big difference.

Does anyone on this site have over 500 miles on his bike yet?

If so what are your experiences.

I've heard that argument before. Trust me, I'm not trying to argue with you. I'm merely searching for answers.

If tight tolerances were the reason my bike doesn't start when hot, then why does it start hot when I pull the cold start knob? The cold start knob doesn't loosen the tolerances.

Again, just looking for a resolution to my problem.

BTW, Yamaha NA, told me over the phone that after 200 miles the starting problems disappear. I've got just over 200...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

My 2012 has always started fine when cold.... but was a PITA to start after riding for a while. I took Zuch's advise and took her to the dealership and had them use the 'sniffer' on her. Turns out it was running a little lean at idle so they dropped the idling circuit 2%. This change along with opening the throttle 1 degree (just barely past taking the slack out of the throttle) and now the bike fires first time every time, no matter the location or elevation. It takes a little while to get use to the sweet spot on the throttle opening, but it works great now.

My dealer said the idle adjusting tool is a standard tool that is used on other Yamaha machines as well, so I find it hard to believe that some dealerships actually say they don't have one... ??

Good luck all.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Running the Yamalube 0-40 synthetic has made a difference for me. It starts in clod temps, no problem. Also seems to help with hot starts too because the motor cools down faster. I never thought I would be running 0-40 in anything, but I'm sold now as to it being the best choice for this bike anyway.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

My dealer said the idle adjusting tool is a standard tool that is used on other Yamaha machines as well, so I find it hard to believe that some dealerships actually say they don't have one... ??

You're right about the tool. The dealer told me he didn't have it and what he was referring to was the program to hook it up to a computer for analysis. I sat next to him as he tweaked the CO output.

He tried to get the bike dialed in, but was unsuccessful. He basically threw his hands in the air and said it needs to be broken in. He more or less echoed the sentiments of Yamaha NA, when I called them on the phone.

Yamaha NA said over 200 miles the problems go away.

Dealer said over 600 miles the problems go away.

I ran the Shen500 and now have 523 miles on it and still counting...

Changed the oil to MOTUL 300V as per the dealer. His feeling was that it would help my starting issues.

I just took the bike out of the garage. Started on the 4th try (60 deg F, sea level). Starting messing around and ended up stalling it in my driveway. Took 11 tries to get it started.

I love the bike once it's running, but this starting issue is a major PITA! Some people would probably ignore it and just ride... I wish I had their temperment.

I spent a lot of money on the bike and it's been disappointing. I nearly bought a KTM... wish I had now.

I've considered selling it several times and I may do so after I figure out what to replace it with.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Jworth-

Try one thing for me.... after running the bike long enough that its warmed up and doesn't want to restart, open the throttle just enough that the cable just starts to engage and try to start the bike. Yamaha says the hot-start procedure is to match the line on the grip to the line on the throttle housing, but that is just too far. As soon as I found the "sweet" spot on the throttle, my bike fires EVERY time I tap the button. She has 400 some miles along with the FMF and ECU upgrades.

Hopefully this works for you... it has worked for every 2012 WR that has been sold here locally, and the Altitude just doesn't matter, it works everywhere I ride it, so I think there is something to this...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

  • boise is right on in the case of my hard start situation... just had to find the right amount of throttle to get er to start and if it dont right off..dont keep cranking! it will flood out ...what i do is shut down power for a few seconds then try it again . second time it always starts

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yamalube 0 40 synthetic, it starts excellant now hot or cold, and I can't find anything wrong with the rest of the bike either. Glad I didn't buy a KTM.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Jworth-

Try one thing for me.... after running the bike long enough that its warmed up and doesn't want to restart, open the throttle just enough that the cable just starts to engage and try to start the bike. Yamaha says the hot-start procedure is to match the line on the grip to the line on the throttle housing, but that is just too far. As soon as I found the "sweet" spot on the throttle, my bike fires EVERY time I tap the button. She has 400 some miles along with the FMF and ECU upgrades.

Hopefully this works for you... it has worked for every 2012 WR that has been sold here locally, and the Altitude just doesn't matter, it works everywhere I ride it, so I think there is something to this...

Tried this.

I couldn't get it to work.

It backfired rather loudly. Just to be clear, I twisted the throttle just enough to take the play out and then a little extra. It eventually started, but after 8 - 10 tries after returning the throttle to it original position. I tried several other throttle positions. At one point I thought by reducing the throttle while trying to start might work, but that didn't work out.

I'll continue to try different combinations...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yamalube 0 40 synthetic, it starts excellant now hot or cold, and I can't find anything wrong with the rest of the bike either. Glad I didn't buy a KTM.

The dealer suggested motul 300v and he didn't sell it. He had on hand the yamalube products. I'm certainly no expert, but his reasons for using it seemed logical. The fact that he actually didn't sell the product I thought gave the product some additional merit. That being said, If things don't change, i'll give the yamalube a try.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Tried this.

I couldn't get it to work.

It backfired rather loudly. Just to be clear, I twisted the throttle just enough to take the play out and then a little extra. It eventually started, but after 8 - 10 tries after returning the throttle to it original position. I tried several other throttle positions. At one point I thought by reducing the throttle while trying to start might work, but that didn't work out.

I'll continue to try different combinations...

Did you wait till the fuel pump shut off before trying each time?

They will not start without fuel pressure to make the injector squirt.

Edited by tomerb

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Did you wait till the fuel pump shut off before trying each time?

They will not start without fuel pressure to make the injector squirt.

I did wait until the fuel pump stopped before attempting to start.

I might check the valves again today. They were within spec the last time I checked, but that was several hundred miles ago.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

if everything above wont work then the only way you will get it to start when it wont is shut it off..pull out the choke and fire it up

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have a Yamaha WR450F 2012, in Italy the problem is the same, the bike will not turn on and yamaha does not know what to do, but have already checked everything seems ok.

I had 4 WR450F with carb and they were fine, it 's obvious that the problem here is the injection system.

Does anyone have an e-mail to a technical yamaha japan to write to?

YAMAHA!! Where are you?!.

Schizz

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

After i've had the bike started and running it always fires back up by just applying the slightest amount of throttle (after having the fuel adjusted down 2% at idle).

Now, having said that.... when the bike has been sitting for some time, I have not found a way to start it with the push button no matter what combination of things I have tried. So... I just kick start it, and it always fires on the first or second kick. At least at that point I'm still in the parking lot and not tired and trying to kick start it on a steep hill in the boondocks after having just dumped it on its side....

I'm really surprised that Yamaha let these bikes leave the factory without a solid starting mechanism.... pretty shitty deal.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The GYT-R kit solves all the starting problems...

Do you have one?? It sure as hell didn't help mine.

1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You have to make sure the filters pre and post fuel pump are spotless, then use the mapping too to change the af ratios to a more reasonable level.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:


  • Similar Content

    • By Randy Sorensen
      I am currently rebuilding my yfz450. I decided to buy the hot rods 500cc stroker kit. I was wondering what jets I need to run. It has full fmf exhaust, uni filter, riding at 800ft. Above sea level. I currently have a ncqv needle on hand along with 170 through 180 main jets, and 45 through 55 slow jets. I don't want to do the trial and error thing for two weeks, what should I start with?
    • By WAR10CK333
      1991 DR250S Dual Sport STREET LEGAL, with only 2,263 original miles. This bike is extremely clean and very well maintained. Clean title. Bike is all stock except for the grips, tires, and mini rear turn signals. Has a Cheng shing rear 4.00" knobby, and a Shinko 244 front tire, under 1,000 miles on it. Everything on the bike works perfect. The pictures do not do this bike any justice, must see in person. Comes with everything in picture plus:

      -passenger pegs 
      -the license plate bracket plastic (currently removed for a less bulky look, as seen in pics)
      -a cheng shin front knobby (the matching rear is currently on the bike)
      -a 4.60x18 Shinko 244 dual sport rear tire (brand new, 0 miles, matching front is currently on bike)
      -spare turn signals, new in box
      -original owners manual 

      Located just outside Schenectady NY. Only selling because I'm looking to pick up a '01 or newer rm250, which would be the only trade. Price is firm. No spammers, no tire kickers. SOLD AS IS. local pickup only, if you really want the bike shipped, that is for you to set up and pay for. 
       
    • By Theeebalz
      hey all, yesterday had a DNF from an engine issue, well got it home and in a couple hours of washing and tear down found out it had broke an exhaust valve... the bike has aprox 260 hrs all together, obviously i never thought about when i should be replacing valves, top end has about 60-70 hrs on it (hour meter fell off and didnt notice for a race or too... oops.)  it didnt damage anything it looks like other than the valve and the piston. 
      so onto my questions. 
      im looking at all the valve options. i have lapped many a valve and have even done a few 3 angles myself. but i dont know which one i should go with being all relatively equally priced? are stainless just as good? if my titanium lasted this long should i just put oem's back in?
      only really asking because i am extremely hard on the bike (3 hour races brutal dust and mud constantly tapped out in 5th.) 
      also because ive seen alot of engine carnage but have never seen a valve break like this. 



    • By Mark Woodby
      How do I know my dirtbike is idling at the proper RPMs?
    • By Vet Rider
      Hi all.  New/old rider here.  Im 37.  Havent raced or ridden for that matter since 2000.  Got kids now.  One on a 2018 CRF50.  Hes 6.  So I got a bike to be able to ride with him and maybe get into racing again for myself.  Found a clean 19 hour 15 YZ250f.  Bike is in immaculate shape.  BUT......
       
      What is the trick to get it to start easy??  Something seems wrong.  I have been watching youtube videos about the 15+ YZ250F's and other 250F bikes and they all seem to start with one kick.  No need to find TDC or anything like that.  Warm or cold.  With mine its very sensitive about starting and needs to be at TDC no matter the temp.  Its very annoying.  First time I tried to start it, it took 20 minutes and I was already tired.  Then I went looking for info and found about all this TDC stuff.  And that would be fine if I wasnt seeing TONs of videos of people getting their new 15, 16, 17 YZ250F's and starting them in one kick.  Something has to be wrong.  This bike is 2 years old with 19 hours on it.  Original owner said it was maintained very well.  Didnt get a chance to ask him about its starting, and I dont want to bother him.  But it seems wrong.  Its not like its a 2000 or something with 150 hours on it.  
       
      What could be the issue?  Valves needing adjustment?  New plug maybe??  I have no issue getting it to the dealer for a valve adjustment.  Just wondering what others think.
       
      Thanks.