2012 WR450 Starting woes

Has anybody with the starting problems had their TPS checked? I am wondering if that could affect it. Sometimes I have to barely crack the throttle... then it starts fine.

I'm in Colorado and have gone through all this crap as well. Took to the dealer and they adjusted the idle speed upward and changed the oil to a much lighter weight. It is starting finally and I'm using stock ECU etc. I have the GYTR and computer, not sure why I bought them now. Anyhow, I've only got 80 miles on this bike but its starting to be the bike I thought I bought.

I have the GYTR and computer, not sure why I bought them now.

Install the GYT-R Comp ECU and you will soon see why you bought them.

You have to listen to the fuel pump prime. My procedure is to push button, prime fuel pump, when it stops I hit the starter briefly 3-4cycles, stop, let the fuel pump prime again, hit starter again for 3-4 cycles. I always start it cold in nuetral, hot either or. Never had a problem, starts 50% of the time on first crank and 50% on second crank.

I had a huge problem with starts while the engine was warm/hot for a while. It killed me at all of my dead engine start desert races.

I have since learned that putting the bike in neutral does the trick. Less load = easier starting?

Now I pull hole shots for my line on the regular. This bike is a monster and so much traction!

Hey guys, I have had similar starting problems that most of you have had here in this post. I have over 1000 miles on my '12 and it hasn't gotten any better. In fact lately it seems to be worse. I've tried all the tricks posted here, the cracking of the throttle, waiting for the pump, etc., and all of it worked some time but not always. Well this weekend I finally found what my bike likes and it works 100% of the time whether I stall it, shut off normally, in gear or not. I found that if I hold the throttle wide open and crank it for 1/2 a second, release the throttle and hit the starter a second time it fires every time. I'm assuming a big gulp of air clears out the cylinder for a clean start. By the way my bike starts first push of the button when cold every time so if your bike is similar this might work for you. I realize some bikes might be hard starting because they are rich or lean. I figured mine was rich when it stopped. I would rather have a bike that always starts on the first try but I will accept two tries.

My WR runs the stop screw out, plug out of the pipe, comp ECU, and the woods map. It starts first push 90% of the time cold and and 50% of the time warm. Ive found that the other 50% of the time, that timing with just a quick push of the start button is the key. Just enough the get it past 1 one stroke, just like a kick would do. If I hold down the button it won't start. Its like the starter puts to much drag on stroke to let the compression carry it into the next stroke. Lets not forget these WR's have auto decompression during starting. I found this way of starting from starting large RC helicopters. Where just a quick bump of the stater is what it took to get them started. If it won't start, I put it in neutral open it up and give the starter a few turns.Then I let off throttle and give the starter a quick bump and it starts.

Hope this helps some.

Edited by vlxjim

Has anyone tried checking and or adjusting the tps. I noticed mine reads 0 with no input at the twist throttle. After looking through the service manual, it states that the tps should read 8-16? with no throttle input. At least that,s my interpretation of it.

My tps reads well below 100 at wide open with the throttle stop screw cut off very short. Does that seem normal?

Hey guys make sure your idle isn't set too low. My bike was a bitch to start hot, no dice in gear and tough even in neutral (starts fine cold). I have a Magura juice clutch and it had too much free play and so I thought it may have been dragging a bit, so I got that sorted out but it still wasn't starting when hot.

Then yesterday while riding I remembered someone posted here saying they used the 'choke' and it helped, so I tried it and it worked. Then I went and turned my idle up a bit, and voila! Starts hot now, even in gear! The only time it seems to be hard starting now is if it's really hot, like after going through some super slow tight stuff, like 1st gear and working the clutch constantly type thing. Hopefully this helps some of you.

Follow up on my last post... I checked my owner's manual and it says the idle should be 1900-2100 RPM minimum. If you have the GYTR tuner you can check this yourself in monitor mode. Mine was at about 2200 RPM *after* I turned it up on my ride, so I was definitely too low before, which was contributing to the hot start issue that is now mostly gone.

Thanks for this thread. I don't know if my dealer was smart enough to figure this problem out on their own but once I told them what people said was the potential fix they looked it up, hooked up the computer to the connector near the ECU (it's a little black box about 2 inches by 4 inches...not the power tuner) and stuck some probe up the exhaust pipe and started pushing buttons until the CO (Carbon Monoxide) reading hit about 4 I think. It took them about 5 minutes to fix it. They said it took longer to get the equipment out than to fix the problem and didn't even charge me!

One more note. They said if I changed out the ECU for a competition ECU, or de-restricted it by removing the air filter thing or the exhaust pipe tip then I might need to bring it back to have it re-tuned. Oh yes...and they would charge me next time but said it would be the minimum shop time charge.

let me comment now that i have put about 75 miles on my 2013 wr

i have noticed just like in this thread others have stated it is hard to start. i agree if you give it too much throttle, or none at all it will not start. in fact it wont start if you keep cranking and try to find the sweet spot just off idle that it will normally start with.

but i can start my bike with 100% reliability if you just crack the throttle open a tad before you hit the button. if you do anything different from this it will not start and you wont get it to start without some effort.

i have found that if it doesn't light on the first or second attempt and you gave it too much throttle try opening the throttle all the way, spin the engine a few times, then just crack it open slightly and it will fire right up.

the key seems to be just cracking it open, likes someone described, enough that it puts tension on the throttle cable. a few times it started with no throttle input at all, but just cracking it gets it to light off every time. the owners manuel even mentions this if you read it.

anyway, thats my observations and i couldn't be happier with this bike.

Whilst i am still running mine in, increasing the idle speed to 2200rpm has helped and has not adverse effects on performance. The other key thing is letting the fuel pump prime before expecting it to start. I usually give 3 cranks if it hasn't fired, let off fuel pump prime and hit it again and it will fire every time. Also just taking the free play out of the throttle slightly acting on the tb helps for hot start.

&%$#@!ing great bike with a few little quirks,

Had my valves adjusted, one of my intakes was out. The bike probably has close to eighty hours on it now (no tuner). I didn't notice it until the bike would not start at all. Now, it starts with the button in gear and hot, and it never would before. I didn't even need to use the hot start. I rode for about three hours last night and not once did I need to kick it. Man I love this bike.

I didn't even need to use the hot start.

Hot start? You must mean choke.

No, I mean hot start, witch is to crack the throttle 1/8. It's in the manuel.

Ah...the way you said it before, it sounded like you were pulling the old style plunger out of the carb via the lever mounted cable or plunger on the side of the carb....which of course, there is none.

Ah...the way you said it before, it sounded like you were pulling the old style plunger out of the carb via the lever mounted cable or plunger on the side of the carb....which of course, there is none.

Its not a carb its a throttle body. And there is a knob (plunger) you pull on it for cold start. Also you turn it for idle speed adjustments as well. I don't use the cold start knob, well not yet here in SoCal its warm. It does help the bike warmup quicker. There is two lines on the housing next to the grip flange. In hot start you just move between the lines. If you do it this way it is good to put a mark on the grip next to the housing mark.

Its not a carb its a throttle body. And there is a knob (plunger) you pull on it for cold start. Also you turn it for idle speed adjustments as well. I don't use the cold start knob, well not yet here in SoCal its warm. It does help the bike warmup quicker. There is two lines on the housing next to the grip flange. In hot start you just move between the lines. If you do it this way it is good to put a mark on the grip next to the housing mark.

Thanks, I'm aware of the FI on the 2012....I have one. When CW Shasta mentioned hot start I thought he was refering to the carb....not FI.

Finally decided to get my idle mixture checked after a painful weekend of hard starting.  Called my dealer and he had no idea.  Said they only had the GYTR hand tuner, the same as mine.  Can anyone tell me exactly what their dealer used to adjust the idle mixture?  Thanks.

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