#
2010 Shock Service

Every YZF shock (for that matter, every KYB) I've done has benefited from beefing up the face of the rebound stack considerably. The '10 benefits from a little bit of modification to the comp stack, too.

I used a setup I got from SPI on a '10, and the owner was pretty happy with it. Probably not the end all ultimate stacks, since no two people are the same, and since it was a year and a half ago, but here it is. Bold are the shims that were changed:

Rebound:

**40 x 0.30 x 12**

**40 x 0.30 x 12**

**40 x 0.30 x 12**

40 x 0.20 x 12

40 x 0.20 x 12

40 x 0.20 x 12

29 x 0.11 x 12

40 x 0.30 x 12

38 x 0.30 x 12

36 x 0.30 x 12

34 x 0.30 x 12

32 x 0.30 x 12

30 x 0.30 x 12

28 x 0.30 x 12

25 x 0.30 x 12

28 x 3.00 x 12

Compression:

44 x 0.20 x 12

44 x 0.20 x 12

44 x 0.20 x 12

44 x 0.20 x 12

44 x 0.20 x 12

44 x 0.20 x 12

44 x 0.20 x 12

44 x 0.20 x 12

**36 x 0.15 x 12**

**32 x 0.15 x 12**

44 x 0.20 x 12

**44 x 0.25 x 12**

42 x 0.20 x 12

**42 x 0.25 x 12**

40 x 0.25 x 12

38 x 0.25 x 12

36 x 0.25 x 12

34 x 0.25 x 12

32 x 0.25 x 12

30 x 0.25 x 12

29 x 0.25 x 12

28 x 0.25 x 12

27 x 0.25 x 12

26 x 0.25 x 12

25 x 0.25 x 12

24 x 0.25 x 12

23 x 0.25 x 12

22 x 0.25 x 12

21 x 0.25 x 12

41 x 4.50 x 12

Exchange ("high speed") valve not modified

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I serviced my shock today. If you service your own, how are you removing the bladder cap? Previous models had the schrader valve attached to a block on the cap and you pulled on that block to remove the cap. The new cap has nothing to grab. I carefully pulled on the schrader valve with it capped and that worked. I thought I might be able to apply some compressed air to pop it out, but my hand pump was having some trouble today.

I cleaned mine all up and filled it with some fresh motul shock fluid. No changes were made to the internals. Are there any recomended improvements to the valving that I should perform the next time around?

thank you,

Brent