Jump to content
ballisticexchris

Maintenance, adjustments, and modifications to our Betas

Recommended Posts

The harness on my 12 did not have turn sig wiring or horn or flasher or plate light or the left hand controls. It did have the front brake switch and not the rear.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

~3 gallon tanks are on the way! They will use stock shrouds. Also 2t pipe guards are coming.

A quick note on the skid plates. I have the carbon plate an that thing is tough. It has good coverage so if you ride a lot of rocks it is well worth the added protection. The plastic plate provides good coverage too but it is not nearly as robust as the carbon. The metal desert plate provides more coverage than the stock one but not near the coverage of the plastic or carbon.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Why did you do this?? Several on here said the lights were plug-in without the extra harness, I have heard it both ways??! 2013 have everything but the lights and relay.

RR/RS are different on my bike but it is easy to swap, my RR has the brake light wires but no turn signals or proper headlight plugs/wires

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

No pictures, But I want to give a shout out to a local company that does outstanding FCR carb mods.

Tokyo mods. It was a little pricy as I had to give them my bike so they could spec the carb. Ron Wood and his crew work magic to these FCR carbs.

Between the jetting, needle, adjustable leak jet, and whatever "special mod" they do to the inside, it's worth every penny! You can whack the throttle from idle with no hesitation whatsoever. In any gear! While the stock jetting was great, the carb mod is nothing short of amazing!

I heard about them from a member of my dual sport club. The inside of the shop is super clean. Ron does the actual modification and one of his crew test rides and dials the jetting in perfect. It's a full service race shop that does great work.

http://www.tokyomods.com/index.html

FWIW, I have a really hard time trusting my bike to anyone. These guys do a first class job! The only other shop I trust working on my stuff would be Dave Turners shop: Get Dirty Dirt Bikes.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I ordered the new BRP sub-mount + Scotts Steering Damper kit from American Beta, via Dan at MotoXotica for my '11 520RS. I'm a short guy and run my fork tubes with the 3rd marker line at the top of the triple clamps. I had to shim the sub-mount up 6mm to get it to clear the fork tubes in this high position. Normal fork positions clear just fine. The tower pin was just long enough to span the additional 6mm also, after adjustment per instructions.

The higher handlebar position feels a little weird when I'm seated, but it feels MUCH BETTER than stock when I'm standing. :-)

IMG_1298.JPG

IMG_1301.JPG

IMG_1302.JPG

IMG_1303.JPG

With the sub-mount shimmed up 6mm, the throttle cables were a little tight to run inside the cable guide, so I didn't. Yes, I need to give Cycra some shit about the rusting bolts that came with their hand guards. Grrr...

Heading to Johnson Valley after Christmas for several days of desert & mountains! :-) "Ms.Beta" is doing GREAT after 146 hours & 3900 miles!

Catfish ...

Got mine yesterday, nice looking piece, would be nice if it had some nicer fasteners on it should make me more comfortable on the bike at speed with the 16mm clamps

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It can handle 50 hours... I hate to say it, but I have a customer that just now came in after putting 3500 miles on his Beta 520 RS. That's break-in oil! These 498cc engines are tough!

And some owners are just plain stupid. Why Why Why???
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes, mine did. See the photo below.

With everything in place, its easier for me to take a photo;

IMG_1336.JPG

What I could measure ... the tip of the arm is 3/8" longer than the damper body in the position shown above.

Catfish ...

Was your clutch hose tight, mine is tight at full right, pulled it out from behind the ignition but still tight?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Was your clutch hose tight, mine is tight at full right, pulled it out from behind the ignition but still tight?

I had to re-route my clutch line from above the left hand-guard bracket to below it to get enough slack for full-lock turns. My line is still behind the ignition module at the frame. A clutch line about 0.5" or 12mm longer would be nice, but mine just fits with this different routing.

I want to find similar bars about 1" shorter on each side (2" total). The oem bars feel a little wide to me, and this change would give the clutch line a little more slack.

Catfish ...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I routed mine behind the top clamp, I routed it to the other side of the frame and then came across at the front tank mount, I'll see how it works tomorrow.

I would like to cut my bars too but the bent won't let me move the clutch over any more, my Husky bars are at least an 1" shorter each side so these feel wide too

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Use a pipe cutter and cut them down. Make sure there space for the controls before you cut

Yes, that is the problem with the oem bars; not enough room for the controls if you cut that inch off each end.

Catfish ...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

~3 gallon tanks are on the way! They will use stock shrouds. Also 2t pipe guards are coming.

Who is making that tank? When will it be available?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Who is making that tank? When will it be available?

You know, I didn't catch the manufacturer. Sorry! I will try to find out for you. 3 months or so.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Can anyone tell me what the advantage of removing the thermostat and going to the silicone hoses would be? besides the cool colors of course..

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Can anyone tell me what the advantage of removing the thermostat and going to the silicone hoses would be? besides the cool colors of course..

Better flow but that is marginal, the bike warms up faster with a thermostat, that is about it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hmm doesn't seem worth the money. I guess the silicon hose gets rid of a bunch of hose clamp connections which is good. I would think that with a thermostat the coolant spends more time in the rads and cools more before entering the water jackets, unless you are crawling along.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hmm doesn't seem worth the money. I guess the silicon hose gets rid of a bunch of hose clamp connections which is good. I would think that with a thermostat the coolant spends more time in the rads and cools more before entering the water jackets, unless you are crawling along.

I was also looking for a decent reason to go with the silicon hoses too. I haven't found where it's really worth it unless the old hose may be older and worth upgrading . I also only picked up a set only when there was a guy selling some at a much cheaper price than regular retail. So it's smoother and maybe stronger but that doesn't really justify the high price.. So you just take out the thermostat within and keep the housing. That's good enough to start. I'd say if cooling is more important maybe money toward bigger radiators are a better choice. Unless someone can explain a better benefit for the silicon hose.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I was also looking for a decent reason to go with the silicon hoses too. I haven't found where it's really worth it unless the old hose may be older and worth upgrading . I also only picked up a set only when there was a guy selling some at a much cheaper price than regular retail. So it's smoother and maybe stronger but that doesn't really justify the high price.. So you just take out the thermostat within and keep the housing. That's good enough to start. I'd say if cooling is more important maybe money toward bigger radiators are a better choice. Unless someone can explain a better benefit for the silicon hose.

I think the benefit would be to lessen the chance of a DNF during a race. Not sure about the Beta, but those plastic housings, at least on the KTM, are prone to cracking over time (years). I'm keeping mine stock for now. Down the road I might go with the silicone hoses and high volume waterpump. I like the idea of removing the stock thermostat and keeping the housing intact. What the hell, if it works why fix it?

This summer will be the true test of my bike boiling or not. I do an annual nasty, rocky single track ride up in the mountains at 9000+ feet.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Can anyone tell me what the advantage of removing the thermostat and going to the silicone hoses would be? besides the cool colors of course..

After talking with several Beta racers, adding this hose kit reduces running temps, better water flow, no need to have a fan and no boil overs. One racer said it should be the first mod done to the bike! Only issue for those that ride in cold (freezing) temps is quick warm up. Add in color and it's a win-win.

Edited by weantright
  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:


×