ballisticexchris

Maintenance, adjustments, and modifications to our Betas

1,498 posts in this topic

9 hours ago, newk75 said:


images%20(16).jpg

Haha well I am a mechanic believe it or not, and I own an auto repair shop, and a Beta dealership.  I don't owe my first born to snap on though lol. 

So last night I removed the new FMF 4.1 Ti system and put the FMF Q4 back on.  Haven't decided if I'm going to keep it or sell it, it's just a little too loud for me.  We're riding tonight in some nasty shit so didn't want to ding it up in case I do sell it.  Also did a stepper motor reset since I hadn't done it since loading the FMF map.

0524172221a_zpsjoijcqsj.jpg

4 people like this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Danceswithtrees said:

Haha well I am a mechanic believe it or not, and I own an auto repair shop, and a Beta dealership.  I don't owe my first born to snap on though lol. 

So last night I removed the new FMF 4.1 Ti system and put the FMF Q4 back on.  Haven't decided if I'm going to keep it or sell it, it's just a little too loud for me.  We're riding tonight in some nasty shit so didn't want to ding it up in case I do sell it.  Also did a stepper motor reset since I hadn't done it since loading the FMF map.

0524172221a_zpsjoijcqsj.jpg

That is funny, what do you think of those steg pegz? 

1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
33 minutes ago, newk75 said:

That is funny, what do you think of those steg pegz? 

I don't know about him but I love mine! I really thought they were one of those "snake oil" products until getting a set for myself. For going through whoops and long hillclimbs they can't be beat. I have the pucks set all the way back. I'm thinking the puck position all depends on how you ride on the pegs. I stand on the balls of my feet.

3 people like this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, newk75 said:

That is funny, what do you think of those steg pegz? 

I love them for the same reasons as Chris.  Hardly even notice them anymore they're just there doing their thing, until I ride someones bike that doesn't have them and notice right away the difference.  It's one of those simple things I probably won't be without anymore.  I was lucky and scored a set used.

5 people like this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

First engine/trans oil change question... 

I just did my first 3 hour service on my '17 390RR-S, and I have a few questions after the fact:

Engine oil:

  1. The metal filter on the oil plug - do you just pull this off? I tried but it didn't seem to want to come off, and I didn't want to break it as I didn't have an extra - how often does this get changed?
  2. is there a trick to getting the old oil filter out aside from stabbing it w/ a screwdriver in frustration (or just buy that tool)? I attempted to use metal picks, but couldn't get it out

Trans oil:

  1. The bike should be level, as in, not on the side stand, correct?
  2. My dealer recommended .75l of oil - So, add the oil, THEN open the "check hole" and allow an extra oil to drain back out until it stops flowing? Is it bad to catch this oil back in the container? A bunch of oil came out when used the specified amount, and that seems like wasted brand new oil - not being cheap, just wondering. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
10 minutes ago, nagc said:

First engine/trans oil change question... 

I just did my first 3 hour service on my '17 390RR-S, and I have a few questions after the fact:

Engine oil:

  1. The metal filter on the oil plug - do you just pull this off? I tried but it didn't seem to want to come off, and I didn't want to break it as I didn't have an extra - how often does this get changed?
  2. is there a trick to getting the old oil filter out aside from stabbing it w/ a screwdriver in frustration (or just buy that tool)? I attempted to use metal picks, but couldn't get it out

Trans oil:

  1. The bike should be level, as in, not on the side stand, correct?
  2. My dealer recommended .75l of oil - So, add the oil, THEN open the "check hole" and allow an extra oil to drain back out until it stops flowing? Is it bad to catch this oil back in the container? A bunch of oil came out when used the specified amount, and that seems like wasted brand new oil - not being cheap, just wondering. 

1. I don't take the screen off the bolt, just spray it off with brake clean if dirty and blow with compressed air.  It's usually clean so I just blow it off.

2. I usually use needle nose pliers inside the recess spread apart to pull it. 

Trans oil:

1/2  Disregard the weep hole and just add 750ml each to both engine and trans.

6 people like this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 6/22/2017 at 11:18 AM, nagc said:

First engine/trans oil change question... 

I just did my first 3 hour service on my '17 390RR-S, and I have a few questions after the fact:

Engine oil:

  1. The metal filter on the oil plug - do you just pull this off? I tried but it didn't seem to want to come off, and I didn't want to break it as I didn't have an extra - how often does this get changed?
  2. is there a trick to getting the old oil filter out aside from stabbing it w/ a screwdriver in frustration (or just buy that tool)? I attempted to use metal picks, but couldn't get it out

Trans oil:

  1. The bike should be level, as in, not on the side stand, correct?
  2. My dealer recommended .75l of oil - So, add the oil, THEN open the "check hole" and allow an extra oil to drain back out until it stops flowing? Is it bad to catch this oil back in the container? A bunch of oil came out when used the specified amount, and that seems like wasted brand new oil - not being cheap, just wondering. 

I tip the bike over to get the oil filter out.  I suspect this is not the factory approved method but it works for me.

1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Two questions. What would cause my chain to do this?20170710_113522.jpg
It's not to lose and checked the axle and it mics that it's straight....any thoughts?
Second, does my 2017 beta 500 use the same clutch and brake levers as KTM or another brand that I might be able to get locally. Going on a week trip in the Rockies and need some backups. While I'm asking, any recommendations for a shorty clutch lever?
Thanks for the help.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Not sure what thread to put this in? I guess you could say that I modified my 17 500 RR-S this weekend and need help finding a part.

T1y-cksEY4-lSr-5Sh2ncReyKDNji39DarVldVNl

I am looking for the black part of the fender that supports the License plate and brake light. I have searched this site and Beat's site and have come up empty. In my manual it gives a part number but can't find it on their web site. I can get plastics kits no problem but not the inner fender. I imagine that these break often. 

My beta dealer is 4 hours away so I was hoping to find that the inner fender is the same as some other brand that I could find locally? If not I need to get one on order from beta.

Help... pretty please.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

PM motoxgiant,I think its called a subfender,common to break when you loop out.

3 people like this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
PM motoxgiant,I think its called a subfender,common to break when you loop out.

 

i never replaced this after i looped mine, i just redneck mounted the plate and light and cut slits in the rear fender so it has some play lol

 

Image1500379271.414795.jpg

 

Image1500379140.408498.thumb.jpg.5223d37c8fb79ced12d8419130588e08.jpg

 

Image1500379209.326523.thumb.jpg.eecb438c86ff32b13893ce414788314c.jpg

1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Not sure what thread to put this in? I guess you could say that I modified my 17 500 RR-S this weekend and need help finding a part.
T1y-cksEY4-lSr-5Sh2ncReyKDNji39DarVldVNlkQlAdpScRNo1BfI6ycj4I-L5yJNXqYen-6LfW_n0Tk3RmBqvg7EhdLGNG9TG8zfZUUVONOGgbJTtncVZtmFmUOeofHEw8oEWHk-r1B71DtkkoZWoNvDj_T4TU_kGd6WzwX8gq41oGoA3OBnbOCeP4MKy3u5SCXQBvUxbqzjiNnErM6PGByuexFac7i97rF8vq3MIeE4hk0FI7lJKB0cf_tMCYb_-O6O-jPoIkearx2AGoh-hjGc37lO9ygmORve3k1YM0B-VYF5FVP7fzwsEoeLJ60j6J_HrIWE31EJOhzi7qrXEAYfWcSyvl4sbJTaKMHFckxwNRl8Sn0TIJBLYU6pshDcegX1Or8Sw9CeIpu5t97vjEB7kKAXyJK7UJ64MVAmGnLkVdFPyqjvpI9tZy-1G-HFMJwHiLlaP3vZKJ3FzLKTxi08YiPH_-v2VKMQmpERqzDGVkJTZ0WxWOfjyDnsHSftPHUJtUdEGMrSd617_-qrTJZjUYdS8tJqJD3gKKJAgpEaiePZ9YwmVDUDeEK-AN7HeN7S_z5UBmjxwiuCBP8sTOezKksBP57fRCfedTniUNCkRUpXtWdEG=w1369-h770-no
I am looking for the black part of the fender that supports the License plate and brake light. I have searched this site and Beat's site and have come up empty. In my manual it gives a part number but can't find it on their web site. I can get plastics kits no problem but not the inner fender. I imagine that these break often. 
My beta dealer is 4 hours away so I was hoping to find that the inner fender is the same as some other brand that I could find locally? If not I need to get one on order from beta.
Help... pretty please.


http://www.motosupply.com/beta-beta-beta-rear-subfender-p-1119.html
2 people like this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I rednecked mine as well, but since I never made those cuts in my plastics (like I was told) the red plastics are broken as well. I just leave it without the subfender however I mount my signals to it and when it snapped it snapped right through the holes I drilled for mounting the blinkers. I did notice that since I added the nomadic rack that when I loop it the fender bends @ the back of the rack and not further forward like before. I may look for an option to utilize the rack for mounting my plate and blinkers so I could just mount my brake light to the bottom of the fender..... ? Thanks for the help and the link monstersumo

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The caps they put on the end of 1/2" black pipe at the hardware store fit perfect over the steering lock.

KIMG0061_zpshncz6yq3.jpg

9 people like this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Very specific question, this one.  I have a 450RR 2012.  Having problems with the rear brake spring plate/s inside the rear caliper.

On the exploded diagram for the rear brake only one plate (sprung)  is shown and I have ordered and received one from AZMoto in France.  But inside my rear caliper is another small metal plate (unsprung) that sits deep and accepts the tabs on the ends of the brake pads.  I can't find this plate on the exploded diagram and I can't find a part number for it.

 

Any ideas?  Thanks in advance for any advice...

Best wishes, Dave

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 6/22/2017 at 8:18 AM, nagc said:

First engine/trans oil change question... 

I just did my first 3 hour service on my '17 390RR-S, and I have a few questions after the fact:

Engine oil:

  1. The metal filter on the oil plug - do you just pull this off? I tried but it didn't seem to want to come off, and I didn't want to break it as I didn't have an extra - how often does this get changed?
  2. is there a trick to getting the old oil filter out aside from stabbing it w/ a screwdriver in frustration (or just buy that tool)? I attempted to use metal picks, but couldn't get it out

Trans oil:

  1. The bike should be level, as in, not on the side stand, correct?
  2. My dealer recommended .75l of oil - So, add the oil, THEN open the "check hole" and allow an extra oil to drain back out until it stops flowing? Is it bad to catch this oil back in the container? A bunch of oil came out when used the specified amount, and that seems like wasted brand new oil - not being cheap, just wondering. 

Ditto - i just clean the filter on the plug with brake clean and air dry lightly.  Snap ring pliers work wonders for getting the oil filter out.

I just drain (warmed so it flows better) and dump 750ml in each as per the manual. Good to go.

1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted (edited)

On 7/12/2017 at 8:37 PM, newk75 said:

Two questions. What would cause my chain to do this?20170710_113522.jpg
It's not to lose and checked the axle and it mics that it's straight....any thoughts?
Second, does my 2017 beta 500 use the same clutch and brake levers as KTM or another brand that I might be able to get locally. Going on a week trip in the Rockies and need some backups. While I'm asking, any recommendations for a shorty clutch lever?
Thanks for the help.

The wear on the front fender flap looks the same as mine. Somebody at Beta needs to change the design on that.

I put ARC unbreakable folding levers on my Beta. They are the same length as stock though as I don't want it any shorter.

20170106_104206-1.jpg

Edited by danketchpel
1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted (edited)

3 hours ago, danketchpel said:

The wear on the front fender flap looks the same as mine. Somebody at Beta needs to change the design on that.

I put ARC unbreakable folding levers on my Beta. They are the same length as stock though as I don't want it any shorter.

20170106_104206-1.jpg

That flap in that section always gets shredded on whatever bike. The swing arm moves up and down there plus mud and rock and branches etc always go in there with my bikes. My honda cr 250 tore that up too. The chain ends up loosening too even though it's still in spec it is just a part of the front section that needs to be there to try to limit mud packing in there.Sometimes it's not enough anyway. It's worse not to have that flap there. I'm not sure what would be much better there. Especially for the mud riders that it just packs up in there. Maybe that's why that section is replaceable.

Edited by hawaiidirtrider
1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:


  • Similar Content

    • By markwoodlief
      anyone running the g2 throttle tamer on their 4t bikes? Just picked one up today. I have installed them in the past on both my KTM and my Hsq 501. But with the beta there seems to be too much side to side play between the throttle and throttle housing, allowing the cable to move in and out of the grooves. I can hear my cable grinding as I rotate the throttle. Any clues? Wondering if g2 was just getting to market quick, since our throttles are basically a KTM 50/65 2t cable, and just put Beta on the sticker.
    • By sasrocks
      The Beta 250RR is a premium Italian enduro bike with a slightly lower seat height than KTM and excellent handling and power. The 250 has awesome low end torque and still revs higher than a 300, allowing for more usable range of power and actually less need to short shift the bike. Plus it has less rotating mass in the engine so the handling feels more nimble. Design features and mods of this very clean well maintained bike: 

      Electronic Variable Oil Injection design, no mixing of fuel required! The oil tank holds enough for up to 3 tanks of gas.

      Dual Ignition Map soft and hard power curves

      Adjustable Power Valve; can completely change the power characteristics from linear to a distinct hit (which is easy to predict and ride thru). I have the soft map + distinct hit tuned via the power valve ( a simple hex head bolt adjustable without removing any cover). This combo makes for plenty of grunt in the woods, but not so much that the throttle is jerky. then when the trail opens up you have the awesome power up top when the power value opens up.

      Suspension revalved and resprung by Stillwell (The Beta experts) for 190 lb rider. 

      Rekluse 3.0 Core EXP Clutch: top line of the auto clutch, is a magical addition that makes any ride better. can still use clutch manually to pop over obstacles etc. 

      Full off road protection:
      Aluminum Pipe guard
      Acerbis Hand guards
      Rear disk guard
      EE skid plate
      BRP radiator guards
      Clutch Slave guard with brush bar

      Ox Brake Left Hand Rear Brake; simple cable system to operate brake with foot or hand
      Beta Fork Bleeders
      Larger kickstand foot to not sink in the mud

      Goldentyre Fatty front tire; unmatched traction
      Shinko 520 rear tire; recommended with Tubliss system
      Tubliss system Front and Rear: dramatically improves traction; can run much lower pressure safely and maintain much better flat protection, also with lighter weight than HD tubes. You can run safely on a flat tire back to the truck due to this design

      PLUS: Registered and Plated in Missouri. Along with the oil injection you can dual sport this bike and fill up along the way without having to mix oil. It will maintain 65 mph with stock gearing and still crawl in the technical sections. (lights removed currently. Horn retained so you can honk to alert slower riders in the woods )

      All Extras 
      Stock skid plate, DOT Michelin tires
      (oil tank currently removed)

      Bike is maintained regularly. Steering, swingarm and linkage bearing greased with Bel-Ray waterproof grease. Fresh Rotella in gearbox. No Toil air filter oil used. Extra Twin air filter included

      Parts are reasonable and very easy to get. 285 miles, 18hrs

      This bike is ready to roll: race, trail or dual sport. It is set up perfectly and better than new with Rekluse, suspension, Tubliss LHRB and all the protection parts.
       
    • By GerGa
      For sale is a BRAND new 2017 solid white 6D ATR-1 helmet.  Size medium.  I had my local shop order one for me thinking that it would fit because I tried one on last year.  I don't think my memory served me well or I tried it on long enough because it doesn't fit my head and a little big.  Just over a month old and only warn 10 minutes in the house.  I can't return it because they ordered it for me.  Shiny and new.
    • By kbro45
      I recently fitted my 300rr with Flexx bars and noticed the brake line fitting would rub on the bars.  I was pretty limited in what position I could run my master cylinder.  I did a search on here and found that some people had tweaked the brake line fitting.  Before I ever had a chance to try that I noticed I was getting a very slow leak around the banjo bolt which I assume was from the fitting being pressed up against the bars.  
      I ordered a Core brake line off ebay (listed for 2015 300rr).  The fitting on this brake line is bent a little differently and provides much more clearance.  The line is also custom made to order so you get to choose the color of the different parts of it for a little extra bling.    


    • By gaortiz
      Preordered my 2018 500-RR-S yesterday! Time to start buying parts! The bike should be at my dealer the first week of September!
      So far my parts list is below. Feel free to suggest additions!
      Cycra hand guards,
      front disc guard,
      rear disc guard,
      slave cylinder guard
       rad guards,
      rad hoses,
      3 gallon tank
      Hyde skid plate