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ballisticexchris

Maintenance, adjustments, and modifications to our Betas

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My guess is you overfilled it by 200ml.
Does your crankcase breather tube run up into your air box?

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On 12/10/2016 at 8:34 AM, moto9 said:

Rainy day, bored out of my mind project.

Home built sub tank

I used a left over ktm shock rez that was collecting cobwebs in a parts box, so I decided to put it to use.

The rez has the stock floating piston in it, I can charge the other side of the piston with air pressure to give it resistance.

On the forks I'm using flow control valves, I can meter the air flow all the way down to zero when fully closed.

This will help with changing conditions between muddy / slower speeds and dry / faster speeds.

I've used sub tanks on a couple different bikes and it adds to plushing out the trail trash.

 

 

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So what Moto9? You sell this bike and get something else? I saw this for sale a while back but haven't seen what's up since.. buy a sherco or husky or ktm or gasgas???or..hmm maybe a yammie? You did take off your estart. .. well the 18's have the estart and no kicker for weight loss.. maybe that works too.

Edited by hawaiidirtrider
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On the four stroke Beta's, has anyone enlarged the head stay bolts holes to make it easier to line up the bolts? I think on my next valve check, I am going to enlarge the holes a couple of thousands to make every thing line up easier when it is loose.

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HELP - beta needs new valves!

 

Hey'all

I've got a 2012 350 RR - in need of a new set of valves I fear. already been through a few shim jobs and the last one only lasted about 10 hrs before she wouldn't run again. 

I've spoken with Mongoose here in the lower mainland and they didn't seem to have any specific information about the beta motor (have worked on the ktm motor betas) but I was hoping someone could shed some light. they recommended stainless valves and bronze seats but couldn't tell me what parts were needed from beta.

what I really want to do is substitute the stainless valves for the stock titanium ones. in hopes of getting a bit more longevity out of them, however its been a real pita trying to figure out what parts to order. Mountain motorcycle, the beta dealer here, didn't have any insight either. I even tried emailing American beta and the Italians without any response. :(

the usual is to upgrade the springs to accommodate the heavier valves, but curiously, beta only seems to have one part number for the springs even on the stainless valved models. 

anyone with experience here? anyone have any tips on a valve job on the 350's at all? 

 

any info will help at this point, I am pulling the motor in the next few weeks and it would be great if someone could help me figure out what parts to order etc. 

 

even if you've simple done a stock replacement with the titanium valves , I'd been keen on knowing how the process went, who did the machining etc. 

 

thanks for your help everyone. 

 

WCR.

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On 10/16/2017 at 9:23 PM, WetCoastRider said:

HELP - beta needs new valves!

 

Hey'all

I've got a 2012 350 RR - in need of a new set of valves I fear. already been through a few shim jobs and the last one only lasted about 10 hrs before she wouldn't run again. 

I've spoken with Mongoose here in the lower mainland and they didn't seem to have any specific information about the beta motor (have worked on the ktm motor betas) but I was hoping someone could shed some light. they recommended stainless valves and bronze seats but couldn't tell me what parts were needed from beta.

what I really want to do is substitute the stainless valves for the stock titanium ones. in hopes of getting a bit more longevity out of them, however its been a real pita trying to figure out what parts to order. Mountain motorcycle, the beta dealer here, didn't have any insight either. I even tried emailing American beta and the Italians without any response. :(

the usual is to upgrade the springs to accommodate the heavier valves, but curiously, beta only seems to have one part number for the springs even on the stainless valved models. 

anyone with experience here? anyone have any tips on a valve job on the 350's at all? 

 

any info will help at this point, I am pulling the motor in the next few weeks and it would be great if someone could help me figure out what parts to order etc. 

 

even if you've simple done a stock replacement with the titanium valves , I'd been keen on knowing how the process went, who did the machining etc. 

 

thanks for your help everyone. 

 

WCR.

You already know you are dealing a high performance motor that likes to rev. IF the motor came with Ti, IMHO I'd stick with them. You also must know that todays 4-strokes are set up much tighter than motors from 15 years ago. 

I had my 2008 CRF450X cylinder head done once with new Stainless valves, working this motor really hard they failed as quick as the OEM valves (+/-3k miles) I finally called the guys at Engine Dynamics and had them do another newer head with new guides and Kibblewhite Ti valves and Ti springs collars. That last head lasted forever in comparison. Having new guides, new valves and the seats gently kissed can make a high performance motor last as long as possible.

BTW, they have been building racing heads for many years for AMA superbikes, AFM road racing, District 36 racers. I mailed my head to them and it was done super fast! :thumbsup:

I'd call; or check out their website....

Engine Dynamics LLC
2040 Petaluma Blvd. North
Petaluma Ca 94952

Phone: 707.763.7519

Fax: 707.763.3759

 

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8 minutes ago, shrubitup said:

Tighter than the 20 year old 1998 YZ400F?

 

8 minutes ago, shrubitup said:

Tighter than the 20 year old 1998 YZ400F?

Ummmm, yes. :lol:

Valve guide internal bore diameter in relation to the valve stem diameter, not to mention the angle of guide insertion in relation to the valve seat, with more narrow valve seats the perpendicularity between the two become much more critical, not to mention the tight area in these new heads combustion chambers.... Also the higher revving motors demand these tighter tolerances to live for any length of time. 

BTW, I still have valve grinding/seat cutting equipment for older motors, but will not use them on todays delicate tight tolerance single cylinder heads. I like to hedge my bets and port heads at home and then send them to Engine Dynamics for the guide insertion, seat cutting, pressure testing, I've used them for many heads :thumbsup:

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On ‎9‎/‎6‎/‎2015 at 0:47 PM, ballisticexchris said:

 

Just remove every rubber tube from the fuel cap vent and intake manifold that goes to the charcoal canister. You then have to remove and plug the small hose barb on the side of the manifold and plug it with a bolt and copper or aluminum washer. It's very simple to do. FWIW the smog stuff on the Beta has no effect whatsoever on the performance. 

SO why remove it ?

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7 minutes ago, Sierra_rider said:

 

Tip the bike over and fuel spills into the evap canister, get enough fuel in it and it overflows into the intake tract. 

Besides that, it's just more clutter on the bike.

well that's a good reason !

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does anyone have a link to a step by step valve adjustment/check for a 2017 430rrs ?

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On 1/18/2018 at 11:55 AM, jcarlson9 said:

does anyone have a link to a step by step valve adjustment/check for a 2017 430rrs ?

I have the same bike, just wondering how many hours are on yours?  Are you noticing harder starts which makes you think they might be tight?

Mine runs fine still, but only have 32hrs on it due to fires last year in BC we were shut down from the bush for 10 weeks.

I was going to check mine for piece of mind and just so I know how.

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I have the same bike, just wondering how many hours are on yours?  Are you noticing harder starts which makes you think they might be tight?
Mine runs fine still, but only have 32hrs on it due to fires last year in BC we were shut down from the bush for 10 weeks.
I was going to check mine for piece of mind and just so I know how.

Mine has just over 30 hrs also. The manuel says check them now, but ill wait till 1000 miles. It starts and runs fine.

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Hi All- New 2018 390 RR-S here. Less aggressive break-in ride for ~2 hrs left me with the yellow engine light on. It's been on ever since even with just the key engaged (though guessing that's standard).

Manual, which is pretty thorough, only documents the 2017 (or earlier) dash containing turn, lights, fuel, and FI. 2018 seems to have replace "FI" with the standard engine logo.

Fluids are at level. I'll be doing an oil change once the filter arrives this week, but still a little tripped out by the engine light & what it may pertain to. The only thing worth noting is that the exhaust was a bit funkier than I'm used to. Other riders noticed it too.

Awaiting a call back from the dealer, but thought I'd open this up in the meantime. Any insight? Options?

Thanks

 

 

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Posted (edited)
On 4/10/2018 at 11:56 AM, jcascarano said:

Hi All- New 2018 390 RR-S here. Less aggressive break-in ride for ~2 hrs left me with the yellow engine light on. It's been on ever since even with just the key engaged (though guessing that's standard).

Manual, which is pretty thorough, only documents the 2017 (or earlier) dash containing turn, lights, fuel, and FI. 2018 seems to have replace "FI" with the standard engine logo.

Fluids are at level. I'll be doing an oil change once the filter arrives this week, but still a little tripped out by the engine light & what it may pertain to. The only thing worth noting is that the exhaust was a bit funkier than I'm used to. Other riders noticed it too.

Awaiting a call back from the dealer, but thought I'd open this up in the meantime. Any insight? Options?

Thanks

 

 

Yes, with the key engaged the yellow light should be on. Once running it should turn off.

An issue I noticed, and others have noticed as well, is the retaining bolt for my fuel injector (2017 500 RR-S) was totally loose! The fuel injector was basically just freely sitting loosely in its hole, which triggered my FI light. Check there first and tighten that bolt up if necessary. 

Edited by Grahamlin
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