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Maintenance, adjustments, and modifications to our Betas

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Yes, with the key engaged the yellow light should be on. Once running it should turn off.
An issue I noticed, and others have noticed as well, is the retaining bolt for my fuel injector (2017 500 RR-S) was totally loose! The fuel injector was basically just freely sitting loosely in its hole, which triggered my FI light. Check there first and tighten that bolt up if necessary. 
I had the same thing, injector just sitting there!

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On 4/10/2018 at 1:56 PM, jcascarano said:

Hi All- New 2018 390 RR-S here. Less aggressive break-in ride for ~2 hrs left me with the yellow engine light on. It's been on ever since even with just the key engaged (though guessing that's standard).

Manual, which is pretty thorough, only documents the 2017 (or earlier) dash containing turn, lights, fuel, and FI. 2018 seems to have replace "FI" with the standard engine logo.

Fluids are at level. I'll be doing an oil change once the filter arrives this week, but still a little tripped out by the engine light & what it may pertain to. The only thing worth noting is that the exhaust was a bit funkier than I'm used to. Other riders noticed it too.

Awaiting a call back from the dealer, but thought I'd open this up in the meantime. Any insight? Options?

Thanks

 

 

Turned out to be a malfunctioning throttle component. Replaced, per warranty.

Also broke the speedo sensor on first ride. Another thing they'll cover with warranty. 

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I decided to grease my linkage bearings last weekend on my 2017 390RR-S. Bike has 27 hours on it, and all the bearings looked good, except the single bearing that connects to the suspension. That was SHOT, and I'm assuming it may be a known seal issue, because the replacement set I had ordered to have just in case came with a totally different "rotating" bearing that way more stout. Just an FYI to all to check this if you don't regularly. 

IMG_8209 (1).jpg

IMG_8210 (1).jpg

IMG_8212 (1).jpg

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18 hours ago, nagc said:

I decided to grease my linkage bearings last weekend on my 2017 390RR-S. Bike has 27 hours on it, and all the bearings looked good, except the single bearing that connects to the suspension. That was SHOT, and I'm assuming it may be a known seal issue, because the replacement set I had ordered to have just in case came with a totally different "rotating" bearing that way more stout. Just an FYI to all to check this if you don't regularly. 

IMG_8209 (1).jpg

IMG_8210 (1).jpg

IMG_8212 (1).jpg

That actually looks like a Heim bearing and not a needle bearing. Are you sure that is the correct PN?

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I ordered an entire replacement set from Sierra Motorycycle Supply, and this particular bearing is a Spherical Bearing (replaces shock lower needle bearing for better durability)

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4 hours ago, nagc said:

I ordered an entire replacement set from Sierra Motorycycle Supply, and this particular bearing is a Spherical Bearing (replaces shock lower needle bearing for better durability)

Interesting....and unusual. Typically linkage bikes want all that stuff to go in a straight line.

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13 minutes ago, Chasejj said:

Interesting....and unusual. Typically linkage bikes want all that stuff to go in a straight line.

KTM has been using Heim Joint spherical bearings in their PDS shocks for almost 20 years now.  I'm pretty sure that Sachs, Ohlins, WP, and others all use them for their shock eyelets nowadays.  I know the Fox RC2 shock on my Xtrainer has one.

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11 minutes ago, wwguy said:

KTM has been using Heim Joint spherical bearings in their PDS shocks for almost 20 years now.  I'm pretty sure that Sachs, Ohlins, WP, and others all use them for their shock eyelets nowadays.  I know the Fox RC2 shock on my Xtrainer has one.

Shock eyelets typically at the top mount use spherical bearings frequently. But not linkage bearings . Shocks mounts have a clevis at that bearing and I have not seen a spherical used in that spot before. That's why I said it is interesting..not necessarily wrong. Clearances between clevis and linkages are pretty tight , the movement a spherical bearing allows there is not usually desired.

BTW- PDS is NOT a linkage bike.

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Posted (edited)

D6F1FBBD-FF99-4002-BAFC-7BA53A9F561E.thumb.jpeg.d4c20fbfc39ec020151214c57962b991.jpegParts from an old chain saved me $45

 

 

 

 

4A8B3401-0833-4A5B-9DC8-38828D15BCF9.jpeg

Edited by lat1
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On 5/21/2018 at 9:31 AM, Chasejj said:

That actually looks like a Heim bearing and not a needle bearing. Are you sure that is the correct PN?

Those are my thoughts. Looks like it's the upper shock bearing and not the lower. 

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On 5/31/2018 at 3:21 PM, Goatse said:

Those are my thoughts. Looks like it's the upper shock bearing and not the lower. 

I agree.  Replace wimpy seals with orings and use good heavy equipment grease and bearings last forever. 

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Im going to put this toward the top of my airbox cover or covers.. I’ll see if a little more ventilation helps or not. I like that I can still oil the foam in the vents. Im not expecting to feel much of a difference but it’s a big difference for new ktm and Husqvarna 300 bikes. This seems like a simple option.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Uni-1-Air-Box-Filter-Vents-Yamaha-Banshee-Blaster-Warrior-Raptor-YFZ-6-units-/231692542896

 

 

Edited by hawaiidirtrider
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2017 Beta 500RR, Low Fuel light flickers every time i rev the engine... any thoughts what could be causing it?

Thanks in advance..

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On 6/19/2018 at 0:58 AM, hawaiidirtrider said:

Im going to put this toward the top of my airbox cover or covers.. I’ll see if a little more ventilation helps or not. I like that I can still oil the foam in the vents. Im not expecting to feel much of a difference but it’s a big difference for new ktm and Husqvarna 300 bikes. This seems like a simple option.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Uni-1-Air-Box-Filter-Vents-Yamaha-Banshee-Blaster-Warrior-Raptor-YFZ-6-units-/231692542896

 

 

Well it came in today..well a set of 6. Im

thinking of getting another box and maybe I’ll put maybe 4 on each side. They are pretty tiny. Id like to see if it makes a difference. Probably not much but I think it can’t hurt. But maybe it will make a difference. The husky/ ktm 300’s seem to have a large improvement with greatly vented airboxes.

F2ACEA57-23A7-40B0-AAC1-9C578F12038A.jpeg

78866706-9786-48D4-B334-6E814F234F59.jpeg

 

I looked up airbox mods and there seems to be a bunch  of threads for a variety of bikes. Heres one. 

0b80388b.jpg

 

https://www.google.com/search?q=uni+airbox+mods&client=safari&hl=en-us&prmd=sivn&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjS-IyzjOzbAhUCh1QKHa99Af0Q_AUIEigC&biw=414&bih=617

Edited by hawaiidirtrider

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Hdr I don't think that you can use many of them. 

Beta air box is almost open so you can use the vents on the left side cover or in the small wall behind the right side cover.. 2 at each side maybe 3 on the left which is almost the opposite of sealed... 

Will look nice though... 

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D6F1FBBD-FF99-4002-BAFC-7BA53A9F561E.thumb.jpeg.d4c20fbfc39ec020151214c57962b991.jpegParts from an old chain saved me $45
 
 
 
 
4A8B3401-0833-4A5B-9DC8-38828D15BCF9.thumb.jpeg.c637e2e64f7702bd1a385718275b7c6c.jpeg


Clever. Is there something that holds it down on the underside of the fender? What keeps it from flopping up and down?

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9 hours ago, dirtbird said:

Hdr I don't think that you can use many of them. 

Beta air box is almost open so you can use the vents on the left side cover or in the small wall behind the right side cover.. 2 at each side maybe 3 on the left which is almost the opposite of sealed... 

Will look nice though... 

Yea it’s a super foofoo simple mod that I never thought of as something that would make much of a difference . I had some recommendations given to me to just cut holes in the airbox and improvements in performance would happen. I didn’t want to do that and just have an open hole as it’s common for me to cross stream crossing. This way looks a bit better than just a hole as an oiled foam element for each hole ought to repel water a bit and still breathe. I know some guys just ride without a sideplate airbox cover and I can see the airfilter element . I never thought that was a great idea but for sure there’s way more breathing. This is a simple  cleaner compromise.

Heres one online pic for a husky and one of Alessi’s bikes from years ago. 

https://thumpertalk.com/applications/core/interface/imageproxy/imageproxy.php?img=http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m287/06yz/14.jpg&key=4bdf77b4e75fcf522d3274ca94688829427771494b398c712dac12b6243f2698

36C67871-55A6-4E44-9632-64A453E9682D.png

Edited by hawaiidirtrider

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Can somebody with a 2018 RR-S do me a favor and take a picture of the kill/start switch's connector.

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On 6/26/2018 at 11:30 AM, pineapplebrah said:

Can somebody with a 2018 RR-S do me a favor and take a picture of the kill/start switch's connector.

yes, provided you can be a bit more specific. the wiring harness runs into the switch itself, so are you looking for the engine side?

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