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ballisticexchris

Maintenance, adjustments, and modifications to our Betas

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That damage in on the driving side I presume?  To me it seems like too gentle shifting with either no clutch or clutch not fully engaged, allowing the dog to 'chatter'.

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I'm not sure what you mean by driving side.  I can't off the top of my head think which gear is pushing and which is being pushed, but the bevels on the mating face of the dogs on both gears are chewed up like this.  Trying to play it out in my head, I can't imagine how you could do any noticeable damage to the opposite faces of the dogs without having completely grenaded your transmission.

Or maybe you were distinguishing between the gears on the primary shaft and the gears on the countershaft (which drives the chain)?

I really don't feel like I'm too gentle-- unless of course "checking to make sure I'm in 6th" by shifting up to feel the stop functions the same as being gentle.  When "checking" since it's hitting the stop, maybe the gears only partially disengage, it's on road with no cush drive, and maybe my clutch was slightly out of adjustment?

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9 hours ago, boomshakalaka said:

I'm not sure what you mean by driving side.  I can't off the top of my head think which gear is pushing and which is being pushed, but the bevels on the mating face of the dogs on both gears are chewed up like this.  Trying to play it out in my head, I can't imagine how you could do any noticeable damage to the opposite faces of the dogs without having completely grenaded your transmission.

Or maybe you were distinguishing between the gears on the primary shaft and the gears on the countershaft (which drives the chain)?

I really don't feel like I'm too gentle-- unless of course "checking to make sure I'm in 6th" by shifting up to feel the stop functions the same as being gentle.  When "checking" since it's hitting the stop, maybe the gears only partially disengage, it's on road with no cush drive, and maybe my clutch was slightly out of adjustment?

Probably safe to assume damage is on driving faces.

Considering the symptoms...  jumping out of gear and where the damage is at suggest that the gear is not fully engaging.  This could be due to misplaced shims/washer, bent shift fork, shift fork installed backwards (some can be flipped 180 and still work just not properly engage gears), gear installed backwards.  First bike I build, assembled with a gear flipped, it was enough to cause 2nd to chatter under any load.  Lesson learned 😉

I'm pretty sure something was assembled wrong, where/when/how who knows.   I would recommend when re-assembling build a box (wood or whatever) that will hold the shafts/shift drum with forks in position as if they're in the engine cases.  Then you can verify everything is lining up and all gears/dogs are engaging fully before putting it back into the case.

And of course make sure everything is in the right order/orientation and not missing any washers/shims..etc..  And take your time.

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Building a mock up is a great idea.

As for something being assembled wrong, it'd have to have been at the factory as I bought the bike new and this is the first time the engine has been opened.  I suppose it's not impossible, but seems a lot less likely than if it had been a used bike.  I'm certainly not going to rush reassembly, but thanks for the tips, they'll definitely have me pay special attention to orientation, and the possibility of missing spacers, all while constantly referencing the exploded parts fiche.

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20 minutes ago, boomshakalaka said:

Building a mock up is a great idea.

As for something being assembled wrong, it'd have to have been at the factory as I bought the bike new and this is the first time the engine has been opened.  I suppose it's not impossible, but seems a lot less likely than if it had been a used bike.  I'm certainly not going to rush reassembly, but thanks for the tips, they'll definitely have me pay special attention to orientation, and the possibility of missing spacers, all while constantly referencing the exploded parts fiche.

I would suspect bad assembly at the factory, the only other option I can think of is design flaw which seems less likely.  I don't think that any 'user error' would account for that kind of damage, pressing up on the shift lever when in 6th is as the most going to increase wear on shift forks and at that only by a tiny bit..   A whole lot of high speed no clutch shifting maybe could cause damage but that doesn't fit how you describe your riding.

At this point there's no way to prove the factory mis-assembled, however perhaps during this process you'll discover that it was assembled wrong.  At least then you'll have peace of mind that you've corrected the problem for good....  On the other hand if you discover it's a design flaw, please post a new thread here detailing what you know.  That would be a scary thing 😉

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On 6/22/2019 at 7:36 AM, braindead0 said:

I would suspect bad assembly at the factory, the only other option I can think of is design flaw which seems less likely.  I don't think that any 'user error' would account for that kind of damage, pressing up on the shift lever when in 6th is as the most going to increase wear on shift forks and at that only by a tiny bit..   A whole lot of high speed no clutch shifting maybe could cause damage but that doesn't fit how you describe your riding.

At this point there's no way to prove the factory mis-assembled, however perhaps during this process you'll discover that it was assembled wrong.  At least then you'll have peace of mind that you've corrected the problem for good....  On the other hand if you discover it's a design flaw, please post a new thread here detailing what you know.  That would be a scary thing 😉

It wouldn't surprise me if it was a problem with assembly back at the factory. On my '15 300rrre I've owned since new, I've always had issues with chatter and the occasional popping out of gear. It was never a big deal, just a minor annoyance...has almost 300 hours on it now and is still working.

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8 hours ago, Sierra_rider said:

It wouldn't surprise me if it was a problem with assembly back at the factory. On my '15 300rrre I've owned since new, I've always had issues with chatter and the occasional popping out of gear. It was never a big deal, just a minor annoyance...has almost 300 hours on it now and is still working.

Yikes, that's not right at all.  It'll work until it doesn't....

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On 7/5/2019 at 6:14 PM, swamp123 said:

put this in my beta yesterday.  have 4 rides on it now.

20190704_102909.jpg

Curious to hear your take on it?

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On 7/6/2019 at 3:14 AM, swamp123 said:

put this in my beta yesterday.  have 4 rides on it now.

20190704_102909.jpg

What's that? 

A Flux Compensator?

 

:smirk:

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  • Haha 3

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Hey guys, finally got time and parts to work on my bottom end.  I was assembling everything, never having found the cause of the damaged dogs in the trans.  But when I got to the shift star cam(beta calls it a stop cam, the thing in the clutch housing that screws into the shift drum and that gets pushed by the pawl-- part#006.05.040.80.00) had some pretty good mashing from where the cam stop lever rides on it, mostly on the side of the indents where it would strike when down shifting.  I've attached pics, but it's hard to get the iphone to focus on shiny stuff close up.  With the cases back together, I could upshift just fine, but downshifting I would find false neutrals a lot (cam stop lever resting up between indents.)

At this point I just ordered a new shift star cam.  I was finding false neutrals occasionally between 3rd and 4th since new, and that's where the marring on the shift star cam is the worst.  Still not sure what to make of all this.  Possibly a defective shift star cam from the factory?  Too aggressive with downshifting (stomping it down?)  Let me know if you have any ideas, this mystery is killing me.

 

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Lower engine mounting bolt completely rusted. 
Other bolts were Ok. Maybe worth checking.

1165604566_20190729_161338(Large).thumb.jpg.7388894fef5b4038a4c64243779954d1.jpg

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12 hours ago, Balkan boy said:

Lower engine mounting bolt completely rusted. 
Other bolts were Ok. Maybe worth checking.

1165604566_20190729_161338(Large).thumb.jpg.7388894fef5b4038a4c64243779954d1.jpg

Still better than losing it.. 😔

Mostly surface rust, clean it thoroughly with sandpaper, grease it and put it back. 

Not a bad idea to use some blue loctite in the threads and/or check torque periodically (40-45 nm). 

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On 7/29/2019 at 4:17 PM, Balkan boy said:

Lower engine mounting bolt completely rusted. 
Other bolts were Ok. Maybe worth checking.

 

I'd not re-use it, get a new one its not that expensive. Just my 2 cents.

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Mine was worse and cleaned up great with a wire wheel.

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I'm not a suspension guy,  but I really don't know why the sach gets so much crap. My 19 300re is the balls. I'm a pretty quick B rider and I haven't touched a thing, not even set the sag. Followed my buddies son, that thinks his fast, but all he did was spin his bike from side to side. Funny as hell. I always tell him. I'm retired,  but he kept on and he found out the hard way.😁. Kids, think they know everything.  

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3 minutes ago, Edgecombe said:

I'm not a suspension guy,  but I really don't know why the sach gets so much crap. My 19 300re is the balls. I'm a pretty quick B rider and I haven't touched a thing, not even set the sag. Followed my buddies son, that thinks his fast, but all he did was spin his bike from side to side. Funny as hell. I always tell him. I'm retired,  but he kept on and he found out the hard way.😁. Kids, think they know everything.  

I never thought the CC Sachs were bad performing, just that the anodizing issues were an annoyance. It took a couple revalve's, but the CC Sachs on my 350 are pretty freakin' good.

As far as my favorite performing Beta fork, it's without a doubt the red-legged 'zokes. Both of my sets of forks were done by the same tuner, but my CC 'zokes on my 300 perform better across a range of conditions/speeds. I don't know if it's really tied to the fork design, but it's my personal experience.

As far as kids, it took me until I was 25 to really learn what my weaknesses were and how to work on them. Now at 29, I think I have the best combination of experience and fitness that I've ever had. It's just that I have no desire to race moto's anymore and would rather just do technical trail rides or ride observed trials.

 I've since switched to racing XC mountain bikes to get my racing fix and have enjoy some success. It's lower pressure for me and I'm not as worried about a crash being a life-changing experience.:cheers:

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1 minute ago, Sierra_rider said:

I never thought the CC Sachs were bad performing, just that the anodizing issues were an annoyance. It took a couple revalve's, but the CC Sachs on my 350 are pretty freakin' good.

As far as my favorite performing Beta fork, it's without a doubt the red-legged 'zokes. Both of my sets of forks were done by the same tuner, but my CC 'zokes on my 300 perform better across a range of conditions/speeds. I don't know if it's really tied to the fork design, but it's my personal experience.

As far as kids, it took me until I was 25 to really learn what my weaknesses were and how to work on them. Now at 29, I think I have the best combination of experience and fitness that I've ever had. It's just that I have no desire to race moto's anymore and would rather just do technical trail rides or ride observed trials.

 I've since switched to racing XC mountain bikes to get my racing fix and have enjoy some success. It's lower pressure for me and I'm not as worried about a crash being a life-changing experience.:cheers:

I got a brewsky for real if you ever roll this way. 20190811_162128.thumb.jpg.d08987e3f7e56ff9665ea3871ef68bc5.jpg

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I got tired of the starter bendex kicking out every time I start the bike cold (even in Florida 95 deg cold).  this has been a problem since it was new.

I noticed the GPS was also powering off during cranking which tells me the battery is not holding voltage under load.  So I put a new battery in it today.

EverStart ES-4LBS.  this is a fully sealed AGM, it comes sealed and dry, add the acid that comes with it (easy, its 6 bottles all connected and sealed.  put it on top of battery and push it onto battery to break bottle seals.  wait about an hour, pull off acid bottle, install seal, charge it with my 1.5A charger until light goes green and its ready to go.  It is made by Johnson Controls. All said and done the bike has never cranked so well :) 

It weighs 3 lbs, so what. the way that factory battery worked its worth 3 lbs putting this one in. PS the 5 series don't look like it will fit as its 3/4"-1" higther.

The old one is marked 12v 24Wh.  that converts to 2aH.  the new one is 3.5aH and 50 cold Cranking amps.  that should start the old 300 with no problem.  I have had great luck with these batteries as long as I connect them to my 1.5a battery maintainer every couple weeks.

and it only cost just under $30 bucks with 3 month exchange warranty, in stock at your local Walmart.

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