BFox Posted November 21, 2012 Are the valve shims 7.5 or 9.5mm? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tnkayaker Posted November 21, 2012 Valve shims are 10mm. At least in my 2010 400RR. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
redpillar Posted November 21, 2012 Where do you get 10 mm shims from? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tnkayaker Posted November 21, 2012 Shims for the Husaberg 70 degree engines, Harley V-Rods and some KTM's use them. I bought a ProX shim kit for a 2011 KTM 530 EXC that had 10mm shims. Got it from Rocky Mountain MC.com It was 65 bucks and has way more shims than I will ever need. This is a more expensive way than buying them individually, but this way you have all the sizes on hand. No random trips to a dealer to pick them up as you need them. Harley shops sell 10mm shims individually if you want to go that route. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
redpillar Posted November 21, 2012 Thanks!! I will invest in some. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
happy seal Posted November 22, 2012 No power and you were working on your bike at night, I guess you can work on these bikes with your eyes closed Lantern and flashlight! When you got your wife, MIL and two kids pent up in a cape with no electricity for 13 days you'de be surprised what you would be willing to do. 2 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
redpillar Posted November 24, 2012 Would someone mind very kindly posting up a few pictures of how they adjust the chain slack, on the Beta? I just want to get it right. On the kickstand, on the jackstand with the suspension slack? how much chain slack, etc. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
262 2stroke Posted November 24, 2012 Would someone mind very kindly posting up a few pictures of how they adjust the chain slack, on the Beta? I just want to get it right. On the kickstand, on the jackstand with the suspension slack? how much chain slack, etc. Would someone mind very kindly posting up a few pictures of how they adjust the chain slack, on the Beta? I just want to get it right. On the kickstand, on the jackstand with the suspension slack? how much chain slack, etc. 30-35mm according to the manual, I would assume with weight on the suspension with it being that tight, it doesn't say, 3 fingers is a good guideline with the bike on the stand, just don't want it too tight, the counter shaft bearing will get destroyed. If you go to the Beta website you download all the manuals Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
catfish My Ride Posted November 27, 2012 I ordered the new BRP sub-mount + Scotts Steering Damper kit from American Beta, via Dan at MotoXotica for my '11 520RS. I'm a short guy and run my fork tubes with the 3rd marker line at the top of the triple clamps. I had to shim the sub-mount up 6mm to get it to clear the fork tubes in this high position. Normal fork positions clear just fine. The tower pin was just long enough to span the additional 6mm also, after adjustment per instructions. The higher handlebar position feels a little weird when I'm seated, but it feels MUCH BETTER than stock when I'm standing. :-) With the sub-mount shimmed up 6mm, the throttle cables were a little tight to run inside the cable guide, so I didn't. Yes, I need to give Cycra some shit about the rusting bolts that came with their hand guards. Grrr... Heading to Johnson Valley after Christmas for several days of desert & mountains! :-) "Ms.Beta" is doing GREAT after 146 hours & 3900 miles! Catfish ... 2 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Piney Woods Posted November 27, 2012 I was wondering about the unusual use of the cable guide. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
262 2stroke Posted November 27, 2012 I ordered the new BRP sub-mount + Scotts Steering Damper kit from American Beta, via Dan at MotoXotica for my '11 520RS. I'm a short guy and run my fork tubes with the 3rd marker line at the top of the triple clamps. I had to shim the sub-mount up 6mm to get it to clear the fork tubes in this high position. Normal fork positions clear just fine. The tower pin was just long enough to span the additional 6mm also, after adjustment per instructions. The higher handlebar position feels a little weird when I'm seated, but it feels MUCH BETTER than stock when I'm standing. :-) With the sub-mount shimmed up 6mm, the throttle cables were a little tight to run inside the cable guide, so I didn't. Yes, I need to give Cycra some shit about the rusting bolts that came with their hand guards. Grrr... Heading to Johnson Valley after Christmas for several days of desert & mountains! :-) "Ms.Beta" is doing GREAT after 146 hours & 3900 miles! Catfish ... I have been looking at that setup, do you notice a big reduction in vibration? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
262 2stroke Posted November 27, 2012 What about the crankcase hose mod I have seen talked about, caping off the carb inlet from the motor and putting a filter on the breather hose? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hawaiidirtrider My Rides (6) Posted November 27, 2012 What about the crankcase hose mod I have seen talked about, caping off the carb inlet from the motor and putting a filter on the breather hose? It's very simple. You can read that thread I linked and also just look at all the other threads throughout TT and other places for a whole bunch of other bikes modded this way. Another practical part for me is if my bike falls over oil doesn't go in the carb. There's supposed to be a performance edge but if there is I didn't notice much. It's just so easy, cheap and fast and works so I did it. I've not had any problems with it so far . Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ballisticexchris Posted November 27, 2012 You can flip your throttle to gain clearance for the guide. I really like the sub mount. Been thinking of getting one myself. Did you have to replace the link arm on the Scotts? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
weantright Posted November 27, 2012 30-35mm according to the manual, I would assume with weight on the suspension with it being that tight, it doesn't say, 3 fingers is a good guideline with the bike on the stand, just don't want it too tight, the counter shaft bearing will get destroyed. If you go to the Beta website you download all the manuals Most specs are on stand. +1 on the bearing damage! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Piney Woods Posted November 27, 2012 On any bike, a too TIGHT chain is the worst option. Always measure for proper tension with the swingarm in line with the ctr shaft. That will be the tightest point in the travel. 2 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
redpillar Posted November 27, 2012 Thanks guys, Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
weantright Posted November 27, 2012 On any bike, a too TIGHT chain is the worst option. Always measure for proper tension with the swingarm in line with the ctr shaft. That will be the tightest point in the travel. This is true however not practical. Beta should call out a spec when the bike is on a stand or flat ground. It's not rocket science! 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
262 2stroke Posted November 28, 2012 This is true however not practical. Beta should call out a spec when the bike is on a stand or flat ground. It's not rocket science! Lost in translation I guess, just get your buddies to sit on the bike....oh practical. Thought I would dig through the internet about this and some guys are comp the suspension and checking that way 1/4 to 1/2 inch, Destry Abbots mech leans on the bike and pulls on the swing arm and there was another that used a tie strap, quick method was 3 fingers. 2 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
