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2013 250sx Awesome Bike but Where to buy parts?


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The temps change weekly and most the time a jet kit is cheaper than buying several individual jets and I have more than one ktm two stroke so it gives more options but didn't realize so many smart ass experts where out there perhaps I could reword post in the future to ask " Why is there no need to rejet a two stroke for a cold/hot weather change?"

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A jet kit, such as JD's, is nothing but his "custom" needles with a couple jets thrown in. Nothing magical that keeps you from having to make seasonal changes. I have found it much cheaper and just as easy once you have a needle that works, and you can usually get a couple that are half clip intervals, or next step diameters. Plenty of info on what works, so you don't have to buy any more needles than you would get in a "kit". Then it becomes just a matter of making small changes to adjust to seasonal changes. For less than half the money, you can have more options, that work just as well or better.

Why is there no need to rejet a two stroke for a cold/hot weather change?

If you don't understand why, maybe you should invest in a "kit". However, it is worth your time to learn jetting if you are going to own a 2 stroke.

But, as temps drop, air becomes denser, which makes you have more air per quantity of fuel in the carb, leaning out the ratio. So, you have to "richen" the jetting for cooler temps. Altitude has the opposite affect, less oxygen with altitude = less fuel needed.

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The temps change weekly and most the time a jet kit is cheaper than buying several individual jets and I have more than one ktm two stroke so it gives more options but didn't realize so many smart ass experts where out there perhaps I could reword post in the future to ask " Why is there no need to rejet a two stroke for a cold/hot weather change?"

I think you misunderstood what Harry was getting at. Every bike needs jetting changes, but like gmoss said, a jet kit costs like $75 (at least the JD kit used to) and all it is is 2 needles a coupe pilots and a couple mains. The pilots and mains are available at rockymtn for I think $2 to $3 a pop and the necj/nedj needles are $11 a pop. The necj works great and the nedj is its half clip relative. For $30ish you have your own kit with half clip tuning possibilities, last I checked on the red and blue needles were nothing more than different straight section diameters.

Not to say jd is bad, you're paying for research that he did and what he feels is optimal for the bike, but the Suzuki needles work great, cheap and offer more tunability.

Edited by mynewcr250
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i found out pretty fast the 40 pilot wont work for me (engine wouldnt even run with the choke off). 42 seems ok for now. 45 might be needed if i drop down in elevation. luckily i didnt have to call JD to get it sorted out ?

hey harry, which needle are you running and whats your oil ratio? the stock needle is way rich on the first taper, and the stock jetting is made for an elevation of 1640ft and 68*f using 60:1. the 42 works ok with the stock needle, but when i switched to the necj it definitely wanted the 45pj. even at 3500ft, i kept the 45pj.

some quick math shows if you run 32:1 vs the recommended 60:1, you need to richen your jetting 1.5%, which would equal 1 size larger main if you keep everything the same (ie: 160 with the stock jetting, at least a 162 if you get near sea level)

Edited by mynewcr250
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havent done much tuning yet because i tore down the bike completely to grease the bearings and torque everything. but i did find out the 40 pilot wont work for me. 42 seems ok for now but that may change as i continue with the tuning. using the n1ei needle middle clip and 160 main. theres a stumble when i whack the throttle from low rpm while riding. gonna try and ride tomorow and see if i can get it more sorted out. im at 6300' about 60 degrees with castor oil. alittle more than 32:1 because i ride the sand most the time. from what i read on ktmtalk the necj is similar to the n1ej but necj is leaner at 0-1/4 throttle unless i was misinformed from ktmtalk. i need to find out what the difference is between the ktm needles n1eh/n1ei/n1ej

i did get something petty cool from the ktm hard parts. filter cover. looks like the same material as the outerwears. should keep most all the dirt and sand from ever getting to the filter. so far ive been real impressed with this bike. new bellvill clutch is frikin awesome, tranny shifts like a dream, all the plastic and subframe disassembles real nice, large space in the airbox is real nice. cant think of one bad thing to say. will keep it mostly stock but i did put on a skid plate, inline fuel filter, and new chain with 2 extra links to move the tire back. also welded the PV pin.

mms_picture41_zps79e0c443.jpg

Edited by harryhandshake
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havent done much tuning yet because i tore down the bike completely to grease the bearings and torque everything. but i did find out the 40 pilot wont work for me. 42 seems ok for now but that may change as i continue with the tuning. using the n1ei needle middle clip and 160 main. theres a stumble when i whack the throttle from low rpm while riding. gonna try and ride tomorow and see if i can get it more sorted out. im at 6300' about 60 degrees with castor oil. alittle more than 32:1 because i ride the sand most the time. from what i read on ktmtalk the necj is similar to the n1ej but necj is leaner at 0-1/4 throttle unless i was misinformed from ktmtalk. i need to find out what the difference is between the ktm needles n1eh/n1ei/n1ej

yea, youre way up there lol.

NECJ, from what the big dogs on KTMtalk have said, has a leaner first taper and the rest is pretty much exactly the same, i like it a lot better than the stock needles. the stumble you feel is most likely from the stock needles first taper in combination with being rich at that altitude. every 5k feet or so you can lean out the needle 1 clip. when i first got my bike i just took it down the street and was like "umm, well that shit is rich!".

NECJ is also 1 full clip position leaner than the stock needle, NEDJ is a half clip leaner than the stock needles.

the last letter signifies the straight section diamter ie: 1/16 to 1/4 throttle. the N1EI is the mid way point, and ktm supplies the N1EH (1 step richer on the straight section) and the N1EJ (1 step leaner on the straight section). that is the ONLY difference between the 3 stock needles

Edited by mynewcr250
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i will probly try the necj. gonna try the n1ej first and see what happens. 42 pilot isnt to rich but the n1ei that i have installed might be. remeber earlier i said it wouldnt run with the choke off with the 40pilot. havent determined yet why it stumbles. pretty sure its something with the needle though. got less than 1hr time on it so ill get it sorted eventually

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