Valve Click Advice Wanted

I just picked up a '95 XR600R. It had a valve tick sound when I bought it and I had hoped it just needed to be adjusted. I should have walked away but I had the fever and had just driven an hour and half :) .

Well I have tried to adjust it twice now and it's still ticking away. I can rotate the fly wheel until I hear a click and the fly wheel shows the two verticle lines (What does that mean) the valves appear to be real close to TDC and then the T mark seems to follow closely. I'm not sure what my next step should be? I can't seem to pinpoint where it's coming from but it sure sounds like it's in the top end. What would I expect to pay to have the top end rebuilt and what should I have done? I am an older guy that just want's a solid cheap bike to trail ride and general abuse, nothing too outrageous.

Any advice/help would be greatly appreciated.


James (Ventura, CA.)


Seems odd that you hear the ticking sound when rotating the engine by hand. Were you able to adjust the decompressor properly after adjustng the valves( 3/16"-5/16" of free play in the lever)? I've heard the cam chain tensioner is a problem on these bikes after a few thousand miles, but I haven't experienced any problems yet. Maybe MR660 has an idea, sounds like he may been into his valvetrain a bit on his XR600. Maybe sending him a PM regarding this thread is a good idea.


definately got my wheels spinning! first off get yourself a service manual for that machine! you can do all the work to it yourself, you just can't be affraid to dig into it! the manual will not steer you wrong! in the mean time i would recommend setting the notch on the fly wheel as you have done to get TDC, at this time the cam lobes should be pointed down! get your wrenches out take the rocker box off (that is the top part of the head/valve trane) you need to examine the cam/rockers/sub-rockers/cam gear/cam chain, also make sure the lines on the cam gear are parallel/ or in line with the surface of the head, the marks are 180 degrees opposite of each other, you will see how they should line up (the marks will be perfectly horizontal) this tells you the bike is properly timed (just make sure the flywheel markes are lined up and the bike is TDC).

don't be affraid to roll the engine over by hand while the rocker box is off. you will need to do this in order to inspect the cam chain and entire cam gear. just make sure the piston is TDC and the cam is pointed down when you reinstall the rocker box.

make sure the cam/rockers/sub-rocker are not scored. if so you may have a lobe on your cam completely rounded off! and a surface of the rocker/sub-rocker distorted, which would cause the tappets to appear to be adjusted properly with a fealer guage!

if this is the case don't throw the tool box across the garage and start kicking the beast because it will bite you back sooner or later! just take a deep breath and tell it everything is going to be o.k has great prices on factory parts!

Don't be alarmed by all this just take your time inspecting the top end it may be something simple!

doing the work yourself gets you very familiar with your machine and in-tune to it's abnormal sounds! plus i always do my own work because i know it is done right.(at least i think it is :D)

feel free to drop me a personal message if you have any more questions and let me know the progress, i am curious as to what the problem is. :)

Thanks for the tips. I have the clymer manual for it, but I'm not that impressed with it. What should I be looking for besides grooves and scoring? What would indicate a bad chain other than the timing marks being off?

FYI: When I test drove the bike it seemed to have plenty of power just that damn ticking.

Thanks again!

pretty veige question on the timing chain, but i can say to look at the timing marks as you stated. basically it is recommended to change the cam chain after so many hours of use. (not sure how many, because my 8 hours of riding may be worth 40 hours of someone elses riding). i can't say specifically of anything to look for except the distance of the automatic chain tensioner. just get in there and check it out and go from there!

as for the clymer manual, i can't stand them!!!! i still recommend the Factory service manual. you don't have to start a backyard bon fire with the clymer but if you want use both of them for references! if anything is different (and things will be) then go with the factory manual!

I am hunting down the click sound. I have removed the valve cover and nothing jumped out at me as being broken or worn. I have a question on the cam, specifically the decompression portion of it. What I believe to be the decompressor cam seems very loose and rattles around side to side and back and forth (approx. 1/8). Is that supposed to do that?



negative gost rider!!! that is probably your problem!! check service honda for a new decompression fixture. i never took mine apart so i am not sure if there is any adjustment to it. it definately shoud not have that much slop in it. :)

Thanks, I already had figured that out. I just had it pressed off yesterday and will decompress it the old fashioned way (lever). Everything I had found on the net said the bike will run better without it, once you get the hang of starting it using the lever. I am waiting for a couple of new bearings and then I should be good to go.

Thanks again for your help/direction.

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