Hey just want to ask a quick question.

Does the wr450 only run one oil for engine transmission and clutch?

If so is the motul 5100 ok to run for it?

I just done a service on a crf250 and it ran different oil for transmission and engine and i wondered why they different?

There is only one oil supply for the engine and the transmission on our WR450F's. Use what ever oil conforms to the specifications that are called for in your operator's manual. Change it AT LEAST as often as is called for in your manual. Go ride it.

Bajafool is right. One engine oil for everything in the Yamaha's. Yamaha (and I agree) thinks this is a better design than Honda's seperate chambers. And seeing as how Honda's have more valve issues, I agree with this.

When it comes time to choose/change the oil, I like to change the oil often.

"Oil is cheap. Engines aren't."

I was told by service manager at dealership to run 20w-50 and I run yamalube. It gets changed every two rides or about every 6-8 hours aong with throwing in a fresh oil and air filter. I run a yamaha oil filter and no toil air filter.

I don't have a manual for my '08 450. Is any brand of synthetic 20w50 good? Ride in +10 to +35 celcius

No, I wouldn't use just any synthetic oil. You've got to remember that the clutch is bathed in that engine oil, and some oils have additives that are just too slippery and will make your clutch slip excessively.

you'll get as many different opinions on oil as there are members here.

some popular ones are yamalube, mobil 1 & rotella-t6 (which i use)

it's my opinion that any synthetic with a jaso-ma rating will work well


you can review a manual for you bike at http://www.yamaha-mo...ual-for-my-unit . This is Yamaha Motors Australia. If the link does not work go to the home page and use the search feature for "owner's manual". Note pages 3-1 and 3-2 of the manual specify oil changes at 1,000 KM. I personally change my oil every 500 KM and clean my metal filter (better than paper) every 1,000 KM. Page 3-12 says for Canadian bikes use Yamalube 4, SAE10W30 or SAE20W40 or Yamalube 4-R, with a viscosity of SAE10W50. The better oil is Yamalube 4-R. All oils should conform to API service SG type or higher or JASO standard MA.

Using full synthetic is not necessary for your bike. Semi - synthetic is as high tech as you require and will save you a lot of money. Yamalube 4-R SAE10W50 is semi-synthetic oil and retails at $125 USD for a case of 12 one liter bottles. Everyone has some kind of discount available, so the case would probably be cheaper than retail.

The comments about too slick for your clutch for some brands of oil (full synthetic particularly) is a valid concern. Additionaly, REMEMBER, you should change your oil VERY frequently every 500 - 1,000 KM at least. The reality is any API rated oil for motorcycles, changed frequently, will work fine whether it is straight, unmodified petroleum or semi-synthetic based.

Here is a question for you. Yamahalube R is designed to work in your motorcycle by the manufacturer of your motorcycle. Do you think Yamaha told the oil engineer to design a really crappy oil package, so the company would have to honor lots of warranty work and see its reputation destroyed? Answer - highly unlikely.

REMEMBER, you should change your oil VERY frequently

This part right here is the most important part... change the oil often and your engine will thank you for it.

Just try to avoid the automotive oils which can in theory shorten the life of the clutch.

For those not wanting to spend $9 a quart on "bike" oil, the Rotella diesel oil as one poster mentioned works very well. $13 a gallon at Walmart. You can change the oil almost 4 times for the price of one change of the "good" bike oil. Less expensive oil inspires folks to change the oil more often so I see that as a good thing.

Thank you very much bajafool. I think I should move down south as well because this frigging snow is driving me crazy! Spring can't come soon enough!

I agree to use a better than supermarket oil.

I had to put automotive 20w40 in my 400f because of a sump bolt failure and it's all I had lying around and have had clutch drag and sticking issues. So it's getting dumped tomorrow.

Lesson learned :(

Isn't motul 5100 a 4 stroke bike oil?

I use whatever synthetic 20-50w or 15-40w (non energy saving) I can find at the auto store. my fav is Valvoline Racing Synthetic. $6-7 a qt. When I am in a pinch I use plain dyno oil 20-50w and just change it sooner. 15-20hrs for synthetic is normal for me.. works to 3 trail rides or so.

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