2013 KLR 650

Seriously considering purchasing a 2013 (or 2012)KLR 650.Do both of these years require doing the doohickey?

the doo was changed in 08... the new (08) lever is stronger than the earlier ones but fits loose on the shaft so there is room to vibrate. I just looked at the parts book & the 2013 has a different number for the lever, so who knows. maybe it will make up for the spring being too long (P/N for the spring is still the same). unless they fixed it, the spring runs out of adjustment in short order (like a couple thousand miles). the Eagle lever fits better and the torsion spring eliminates a couple extra parts. the Eagle unit is better no question. best thing to do is call Eagle Mike, he will give you the straight scoop. if it were me I would change it anyway. I have done maybe 4 dozen & the failure rate is pretty high. it;s a terrible system that is poorly designed and exicuted. other than that the bike is a blast, and a lot of bang for the buck

I saw the new KLR in Yellow the other day... lookin sharp

Kawi parts book is available on line if you want to check the 2012

Edited by Beezerboy

Other than the doohickey,is there any other mods that should be done(not for performance)but for reliability and peace of mind.

Thanks in advance for any and all responses.

there are a few simple servicing things that should be done or checked... grease the swing arm and check the fork oil level come to mind. check the valve clearance at 500 miles. other than that... nope, pretty much ready to go. if you plan to go off road some real bark busters are in order because the stock ones won't protect the levers in a big fall. I like Tusk because they have an extra link that makes them easy to install...


plenty tough too... mine have been repeatedly "tested" over 7 years. the stock bash plate only good on wet grass & mud. if you ride where there a big boulders & sharp rocks you will want an aluminum one. of all the tires I've tried on my KLRs the stock ones were the worst. don't get me wrong, they are OK, it's just that there are better choices.

a bit dated in places, but lots of good info...




Do the do!;)

if you DON"T do the doo (new bike) don't you or the dealer loosen the adjuster bolt. That's when any problem surfaces, you loosen it and it doesn't adjust because the spring doesn't tension it. or worse it loosens. On a new klr I'd feel safe riding 10-12k without dooing it, IF nobody touches that adjustment. Without having taken one apart and seeing how everything works yourself it's hard to describe what it's doing and why the concern.

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