- Owner mebgardner
- Views 432
- Price $10400.00
- Odometer 1 Miles
Needed to obtain the needed right side clearance for the Safari Gas Tank.
This cycle motor is large for a thumper (690 cc).
So, it runs hot in low gears, uphill (both ways!!).
This stuff has served me well in other cycles to prevent boil overs. I hope it does as well in this cycle.
Purchased from local Cycle Gear store. I like those folks a lot.
12 VDC to the handlebars, into the tank bag, for charging dongle thingies: Sena, phone, iPod (I love to rock music as I travel). I get these connectors in bulk from Amazon.
I'm a big believer in knowing about the state of the charging system, and battery.
These oil bath cooled electrical systems are just amazing to me, that the engineers can put the stator (the generator) in hot oil and expect it to be cooled by that. Amazing!
Anyway, some are better than others. This KTM 690 Enduro has an "oversized" stator for it's size, and that's very useful for adding electrical bits, like lights and heated gear, without overwhelming the electrical system and draining the battery.
But, one must pay attention to insure the system is well behaved. For that, I buy a $5.00, 3 digits, 12 VDC voltmeter, in red LEDs.
eBay sources these.
I superglue it somewhere in front of me, in the cockpit. On this cycle, it got glued to the upper right of the instrument panel.
I put a switch on it, and run it directly to the battery, not to any other connector (like the headlight). I do this, because the electrical load of the light would "draw down" the voltage being measured at that wiring point. You're measuring a wire with a load at the end of it, not the battery voltage. Not so useful like that...
But, this cycle has "ACC1" behind the headlight cowl, it is unswitched and runs practically (good enough) direct to the battery. Perfect! Use that, and put a switch on it. Why not use ACC2, the switched power connector? Because, then you have to turn on the cycle to see the voltage. ie: Put a load on the battery before you can see the un-loaded battery voltage. My way is better, trust me
RAM mounting system are great product. Sturdy, easy to mount and use, and relatively cheap to buy.
This mount is for my GPS: There are three pieces, ball-arm-ball, total is $34.
Does not include the GPS cradle (another $90.00)
This is a complete seat from Rocky Mountain ATV.
The OEM seat is prone to breaking, so SC does not use the OEM core for a rebuild.
This one is more comfy than the OEM 2x4, too. Not a lot, but better.
SC does not work out for every cycle I've owned, but I would do this one again, for the price.
There is no clearance issues with the Safari tank, towards the cycle front. There *is* a clearance issue with any seat, using the Nelson Rigg Sierra Dry Saddlebags with the Tusk pannier side racks.
The positioning of the front saddlebag straps, going over the seat, interfere with getting the seat off easily, without removing stuff (dry bags) from the Tusk top rack. It's an annoyance, but not a deal killer.
It's not the seats fault, either. It's the stack-up of gear bits being added.
This is an expensive cure for an OEM design defect. The OEM design allows dirt to enter the tank when removing the gas cap. Ridiculous! This filler neck solves it, for a price.
I'm glad there's a solution. I'm astonished KTM still gets away with the original design. Horrible!
If you intend to use some form of Aux Gas Tank, then pay close attention to the venting dongle location, and routing for the gas line used for it. In any case, I recommend mounting the gas vent dongle *vertically*, so to allow gravity to perform the correct open / close function of this gas check vent part.
Tie wrap it to a vertical post, near the battery area.
This detail will save you trail-side fuel diagnostic grief later.
Nicely powder coated. Bolts up without too much fuss. These do require to drill the OEM rear plastic subframe cover (the rear gas tank cover, not the tank). Tusk requires the fitting of oversized spacers underneath the support bracket arms, so the passenger grab bar holes are not quite big enough. You have to make them bigger, in the same location. A small, relatively easy job, but you will break out the drill.
Tusk includes a removable plate to attach to removable side luggage.
I chose to use those same plates to extend the mounting brackets to the rear of the cycle. A longer support bracket means better support for soft luggage. My soft luggage (Nelson Rigg Sierra Dry Saddlebags) were starting to curl around the too small pannier perimeter.
I cured that by removing the plate (one per side) and mounting it so that stuck further out the back.
If you look closely at the attached picture, you'll see how I did this. You will have to beat on the plate a little with a big hammer to get it to "fit", but just a little work will get it to fit, at no additional cost.
Non-Removeable solution, but I'm OK with that.
Good equipment for the price, I would do this again.
Nice Rack for the Money. Everything I needed, nothing I didn't.
Easy Install, some drilling needed of the subframe cover plastic. The holes are already there, just make them slightly bigger.
They installed very easily.
They're *very* expensive.
If you're considering a Safari Aux Gas Tank, then buy *some* kind of wider foot peg, you'll need them.
These actually do what they say, which is to reduce vibration felt through the foot. They work.
They don't fold up vertically very far, in a cycle drop. These will likely need to be beaten back down into place, from being locked upward after a drop. They fold up to about 45 degrees from horizontal. So, that's not great, they'll take a beating in a drop. Hopefully, they don't break, or break my frame at the mounting point.
So, 4 stars for being so freaking expensive.
It installed very easily, bolted right up.
Good protection coverage, good heavy gauge aluminum (I don't know how thick, but its good).
Nothing negative to say about it.
I added some noise baffling, that's the "blue stuff" you see through the vent slots. I cut it from an old back protector that I had laying around. It blocks some cooling air flow, but it's a liquid cooled motor so I'm OK with that tradeoff.
Easy Install. I needed this part to RAM mount my Spot Tracker. There was no more room on the handlebar. This accessory requires a pad, which was another 25 bucks. The RAM mount required a special fitting for the ball end, for a 5/8 in. bar.
It also braces up the handlebar really nicely for drop protection.
Comes in Orange, the color is growing on me.
These bars bolt up relatively easily. For the KTM 690 Enduro, you can use either the KTM OEM handlebar end internal lock bolts, or use the Cycra supplied bolts, they will both work.
You will remove the KTM handguards, and then find that you will need additional spacers to "fill out" the now larger space between the bar end and the guard bar end. About 8-10 mm extra spacers. Stack 2-3 "fat" washers and that will work.
Otherwise, the levers will not clear the bar.
Other than that, things bolt up tight and no clearance issues with the accessory cross brace bar.
No clearance issues with cables, either, and I use the tallest 55 mm risers.
It's a good tank bag, and appears to be cut so to provide lots of cargo space with minimal interference to the rider.
At this price point, I am looking for excellent build quality (which I saw), attention to detail (which is there), and features.
It's the feature set where I was disappointed.
The larger Wolfman tank bags have a waterproof entry for an electrical connection, so there no water entry when you want to add some charging capability, like for a phone or dongle.
I was astonished to not find this important feature!
So, 4 stars they missed my mark.
Sourced from eBay.
KTM insists on calling these parts "supports" when the rest of the world calls them "risers". Go figure.
I bought the 52 mm risers, their tallest. When you read 52 mm, you think "Ah, that's about 2 inches. Two inches will be enough...".
Nope! KTM measures the rise amount from handlebar centerline. That is, they measured from a point different than I expected, and so the bar measure *starts* at a point lower than I expected. So, I get about 1.5 inch of rise. It just seems and feels not tall enough.
If you want a real 2 inch or more, buy elsewhere, because KTM does not offer taller.
Anyway, I have these, and wish they were taller.
The OEM cables and wires will accommodate this riser easily, and there is room for taller.
I know what 2 inch risers feels like, this is not it.
Something else was curious / strange, too. The mounting bolts that mount the risers to the top triple clamp are not very long. This is true of the original bolts as well. KTM leaves a lot of triple clamp thread "on the table", and so it leaves some fastener strength not realised. So, down to the hardware store to get longer bolts, about 5 mm longer. Bolt up is much stronger now! Less chance of thread failure at this critical strength interface, if I drop the cycle onto the handlebar. That never happens, right?
Sourced from Amazon.
Install this at the same time you're doing your handguards, otherwise you'll partially dismantle the throttle side handguard again to put this on.
Relatively easy install. Slip a rubber part onto the throttle and push it towards the "inside" of the grip. Place a plastic throttle holder thingie over the rubber part.
Or, put your handguard back together...
These work, and they're cheap.
Want to rest your throttle hand? This is a way to do it.
From Amazon, 2 ea. 12 x 24 in. packages.
You can do this heat shielding with one pack of this stuff. But, you must get it right the first time. Screw up, and you'll need more, there's none to spare.
I use this around silencer-to-bags interfaces, too.
Anyway, if you think the KTM OEM silencer is too hot and should be isolated somewhat from the subframe gas tank (which I firmly believe), and you want to keep the stock silencer (which aftermarket stuff is crazy expensive), then...
Use this stuff, and follow the installation procedure outlined by Bryan Bosch. He did a great job of telling you where and how to place it.
From R&G Racing (rg-racing.com) direct.
No one in the USA seems to stock, but alot of dealers seem to offer it. They just don't have it for you to buy it. So, direct from the EU.
These R&G covers are an expensive option. Probably 25-35% the cost of a new (undamaged used?) engine case.
They're some sort of fancy plastic, not metal. I think they were developed with a slide in mind, not a drop (scraping force across the cover, not impact force perpendicular to the cover).
There are spacers installed with longer screws that raise the cover slightly above the underlying case. That is, there's an "air gap" between the two parts. The procedure is to dismount just two engine case screws, out of the set of (12?), then insert spacers in the case cover, insert the screws into and through the case cover, and then beat / kick / rubber mallet the case cover into place over the engine case. Tighten the two screws down and you're done.
One more tidbit. That air gap allows oil to dribble in between the parts (case and case cover) every time you pop open the oil filter covers. One filter cover per side means equal opportunity for dribbleness to take up residence in there.
Then, for the next few days, you pick the cycle up off the side stand and watch a drop or two of oil dribble out onto your floor. Ugh.
So, now you know. Tape up the gaps before every oil change. Around the Oil filler hole, too.
Three stars for being so *freaking* expensive, and for being plastic.
I was warned this shifter kit would not be a "cure all" for the 690 Enduro's gear shifting issues.
It helps, it does improve the "feel" of the gear selection. But, it is definitely not a cure.
Its better, and yes I would buy and install it again.
Installation means popping open the clutch engine cover. Have a spare gasket, "just in case". I did not need to use mine, but I was ready. It's a relatively easy install, and there is a tutorial on this site for a "how to" install it.
Here's a "use tip": Use firmness when selecting gears, esp 5th and 6th.
Also, I seem to miss 1st to 2nd a lot more on this cycle when I'm heading uphill. I have the shifter control correctly positioned, but for some reason, the gear misses and I wind up in neutral.
Be prepared to *shift firmly*, on this cycle.
Nelson-Rigg Sierra Dry Saddlebags model #SE-3050
Great bags for the money. Lots of thoughtful details. I use them permanently lashed to Tusk pannier racks. There are two large support straps (the main supports) that hook-and-loop across the back of the cycle. One of them goes across the rear of the seat, so that interferes with getting the seat off. There's no getting around that issue, I live with it as an annoyance.
They're big, they're wide, and they hold a lot of stuff and I like that. No narrow single track for me, though.
Pay attention to sag, early in their life. If they're sagging around the bottom or sides, fix that early by adjusting the fit to the rack, or by modifying the rack to be bigger somehow. Or, they will likely not last too long.
This is "old tech" now, but I like it better than the newer Garmin models.
There are very few reports of water leaking into behind the screen with this model. It has an external Li-Ion battery (though only one firm, GPS City, still offers the OEM 4.2V battery). It's firmware upgradeable (yup, no more upgrades scheduled anymore). It's very very rugged, and so is the motorcycle mount.
So, these were built "back in the day" when things were produced pretty good by Garmin. Now, no longer is this a prime market for them (motorcycles), and other areas of their market get the love.
Anyway, this is one of the few ever produced by anyone up to the rigors of off-road, and I mean really off road. If you can find one in working condition (every button works, all the screen pixels light, all the mount pins make good contact and none are bent, and the battery stays up), then, this is gold in the offroad world.
I just spooned these on to the 690 Enduro (3.00 x 21 front, 4.60 x 18 rear).
I've run them a bunch on my DRZ400, so I know how they handle, a good thing on a new cycle.
They're a fine 50/50 tire, if you dual sport.
Price is good, too. About $80 for the rear, $50 for the front.
They wear like iron, I'm getting 7000 miles from a front, and 5000-6000 on a rear.
But, offroad you don't care about that, you want grip and stability. Pretty scary in mud and sand, and not great side wall performance on a canted trail. You make up for it in skill and not being a dumbass.
From KKT Tucson.
Thick natural rubber. Pricey, but quality. No pinch flats for me, please!
Buy the LiteLock if you can. You'll save the price of the rim lock by not mounting so many balance weights.
These are OK, but they're pretty heavy. They do the job, I would try to find lighter ones.
If you add rim locks, you need to add balance weights to the opposite side of the rim.
My Motion Pro "Standard" rim locks required 5 oz. on the front, and 7 oz (!) on the rear.
I used the "reusable" stainless weights from an eBay vendor: jiminwc
They are $30 for 5 oz. worth of weights. Pricey, yeah. I've never thrown one. But, I never get to reuse them, either. I usually give them away when I sell the cycle
From Amazon : CS JTF1902.16 16T
Just what I needed to drop RPM at highway speeds. Requires some clutch feathering when climbing hills. That's the tradeoff.
Flat insurance, plain and simple. Knock wood...
$15 x 2 tires = $30.
From ADVMonster direct.
This small shop has *excellent* customer support. None better.
They also offer reduced price repairs for your lights, when you have a get-off.
Price reductions mean you will pay less than I did.
Get the "heavy duty" mounts, and the clear lens protectors (a film of plastic with adhesive).
Get the electronic dimmer, its worth the price.
Get the "L bracket" shaped mounts from SWMotech, about $5 each. Keep the extension arm mount as short as possible, otherwise you might get a metal fatigue failure of the light mount, from vibration. This takes time to show up, but show up it will unless you mind this.
Installation takes about 4 hours, and you will need a 12 VDC connection, and a tap into your high beam electrical line. All this usually is accessed under the headlight cowl.
$45 x 2 = $90.
Slightly better than OEM for vibration. But, these will not break your brake or clutch perches in a get off. They'll "fold" away, and not snap off anything important. Worth the fare...
Rally Raid Products Golan Mini Filter Remote Kit RRP 393$144.00CategoryReview
I installed this kit so that I could:
Get better filtering than the OEM 20 micro filter. (though, I've been warned to pay attention to the fuel pressure to the throttle body), and
Clean the reusable filter and not have to remove the air box to clean it. Yay!
Oh, I have a love / hate relationship with this tank.
I've owned half a dozen aftermarket aux tanks, mostly fitted to Japanese cycles.
This one has been the most "problem child".
I'm on a first name basis with the owner of the Australian company. His name is Wayne.
I will not go into much detail, other than to say I had high expectations for a tank that costs almost three times more (!!) than anything before it.
I'm still working through a possible warranty replacement due to "manufacturing defect".
Thats all you're gonna get, for now.
No Install on this one.
My .02: Probably not needed. Folks are replacing the OEM for good reasons, but not driven by any problems with the OEM cooling system. YMMV.
No Install for Rad Guards.
This is a calculated risk on my part.
Safari Tank, Bash Plate and Case Covers provide sufficient protections. Also problem of added weight and radiator heat management.
No Install for tubular type guards.
This is a calculated risk on my part.
Safari Tank, Bash Plate and Case Covers provide protections. Problem of added weight .vs benefit.
Much much better than the flimsy aluminum OEM collars. This is one beefy collar / ring, made of stainless steel. It's heavy and it will take such a beating and laugh at it.
Follow SOP to install it: Clean the shock threads before R+R, and use plenty of WD40 to insure you do not wreck the shock body when dismounting the OEM collars.
Re-use the OEM locking ring when installing this collar.
My .02 tip: Install the Perun Moto Subframe Tank Reinforcement Kit while you're in there.
You can get these direct, they ship from Serbia.
These are high quality parts, and I chose these over the Rally Raid components because of the Penrun addition of the lower subframe bushings made of superior materials.
It's the slow degradation of the OEM bushings that cause the subsequent failure of the rest of the system boltup. The bushings degrade, and then allow parts to "wiggle" over use. Once that starts occurring, the frame bolts eventually fail. So, get better bushings, don't reuse the OEM ones.