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Showing content with the highest reputation since 07/05/2020 in Article Comments

  1. 2 points
    Yes they are, usually the only time we vary from OEM spec is when there is a common problem with an OEM design, we aim to implement a fix in our part.
  2. 2 points
    Of course. Nobody likes to hear "it's your fault, not ours." And it's not fair to say that without all the facts. It's only fair for all parties to do their due diligence to make sure problems are mitigated, including manufacturing process research on our end.
  3. 2 points
    ThumperTalk has a large 2 stroke following.🤙 We'd change the name, but 20 years of branding is tough to change (and probably not too smart either)! 😉
  4. 2 points
    Personally, I like having one less thing to keep in stock. And the disposable filters for the 690 Enduro R are a bit expensive. I recently bought an ultrasonic parts cleaner, which did a dandy job on the filters, no fuss. I didn't realise how controversial the subject is! 🙂
  5. 2 points
    Scotts paid nothing for this piece nor had any involvement. It was however written by someone (GrayRacer) who uses their product PERSONALLY, so it was used as his basis for SS oil filters. The author received exactly zero financially for the article. It was promoted to a wiki by me from a forum post made some time ago. If it happens to cast the Scotts product in a positive light, so be it. This does not invalidate the accuracy of the information posted. Regardless, thank you for your comment and opinion on the topic. The comment section exists to expand upon the subject and your opinion has been logged. 👍
  6. 1 point
    Thanks Rob. As you mentioned above, I think most cases of product failure are related to conditions other than the manufacture of the product itself (e.g. piston, conrod). These engines take extreme abuse and there are many factors at play. Granted, there will always be the odd outlier, but I have never known people to complain about ProX quality and have been pleased with ProX stuff from my own experience. One example would be the KDX 220 piston which was prone to cracking a piston skirt (made by ART in Japan) - is this the kind of thing ProX would fix over OEM Spec? Where do you make the parts? Or do you effectively distribute for OEM manufacturers?
  7. 1 point
    I think you'll find ProX is of good quality - aren't they effectively OEM spec anyway?
  8. 1 point
    No offense taken, we always take feedback seriously! This input won't fall on deaf ears...it will all be put in front of our Product Manager. We take pride in our reputation for quality so we'll put the work in to make sure we can continue!
  9. 1 point
    It’s too bad there isn’t better info out there on leak testing, a leak test on a 2-stroke can be a life-saver but you have to know what you’re doing.
  10. 1 point
  11. 1 point
  12. 1 point
    Great write up and thank you for the time and effort. I laced up my first set of wheels this year. The rear wheel went pretty slick but the front was a PITA and I'm still not happy with it. I know they don't need to be perfect but I'd like to think I would have been able to repeat my success with rear at least. The one thing that plagued me was presumably spoke length but I received the correct set from Excel. I measured overall length and thread length. Everything was spot on. The rim was brand new and pretty damn straight to begin with so I followed all the steps as I understoood them. Once I had both axial and radial about true I adjusted for hub offset and then checked got her tried up again. Trying to get all the spokes tightened evenly had me really frustrated. Some spokes were really tight and others almost loose enough to adjust by hand. I took everything apart and started over twice with the same results. What am I missing?
  13. 1 point
    My parents 1st VW bug didn't even have an oil filter and the car lived a long and happy life ! 🙂
  14. 1 point
    No bladders have been worn into by the pump. I can't imagine the fit being tighter than my my small sized USWE pack and 1.5l bag. The pump fit into the bladder is secure and it doesn't bounce around in your pack. If you wanted, you could ask for an adapter when you order. The adapter will enable you to raise the level of the pump in the pack or even allow you to pack the pump in a pocket if you have one at the top inside your pack.
  15. 1 point
    First thing most riders do is bolt stuff to their bike anyway. Even with a lighter exhaust, most bikes gain weight from the factory. 8oz for just about all riders is undetectable. But, drinking more consistently throughout a ride depending upon the person can be quite noticeable.
  16. 1 point
    8 oz of extra weight is negligible IMO. I'm sure at some point even in gnarly stuff you can find the 1-2 seconds required to push a button.
  17. 1 point
    I don't get the 'WHY'. We already have lots of options for helmet mounted bite valves - no removing a hand from the bars to get it to your mouth, it's there already. We already have high flow bite valves, as much water as you can drink. Adding this means you have to remove your thumb from the bar any time you want a drink and it adds weight? Seems like a detriment to me, but maybe I just don't get it.
  18. 1 point
    Thomas, Sorry for the delay I just saw this. Here is a link to the damper and mount for your bike. https://precision-rp.com/Parabolic-Damper-1-18-bar-Mount-Kit-KTM-2005-2014-for-factory-clamps-factory-position_p_335.html Here is a link to a recent dirt rider magazine story also, https://www.dirtrider.com/story/tests/dt-racing-2020-ktm-450-sx-f-factory-edition-review/
  19. 1 point
    Uh, so you have to disconnect the hose at that magnetic connector every time you take your helmet off, and then try to fumble with reconnecting the hose behind your neck when you put the helmet back on? Seems like that would be quite annoying on all-day rides - maybe meant more for racers.
  20. 1 point
    Yes a very nice article but it seems to be more 4 stroke related and a bit - sorry - over enthusiastic. plugs haven't got always better they have gotten more precise depending the engine needs. Which means that the variations of plugs is now broder then before. A plug provides a sparc that is all it does but to do so the plug has to fit the environment of the engine which is heat. Thus we categorize our plugs in heat ranges. Decades ago plugs that where made where not as perfect then today but thus could provide a bigger temperatur range where they worked zhus where eligible for a variety of rides or engines, but that has changed is not the case anymore. Then was the demand of longer service intervals of the car industry which needed a longer lasting plug therefor Oridium plugs where invented that is all what they can last longer. Then there where special engines very sport related especially Alfa Romeo which started with special plubg providing more then one spark. Whilst not always necessary this was also applied to some plugs, in need just for cars with racing engines using raving fuel and where driven with max speed. Then there are our 2 stroke dirt bikes. These engines are using oil and they have not an exact timing of the engine cycles thus there is an overlapping between filling with fresh mixture and fumes of an explosion leaving the combustion chamber. The two stroke is because of that and because he uses oil a pig in terms of ignition. Because the 2 stroke is so "dirty" compared to a 4 stroke and can not provide likewise perfect conditions as a 4 stroke can, plugs automatically fail easier and more often. A two stroke will not benefit of an Iridium or whatever super plug in general if he is not a special racing engine using racing fuel and so one. To a 2 stroke a standard copper plug is sufficient, but you have to choose the right tip set up to match to the combustion chamber, that is important. Then to the picture of the plug if they still look a bit to dark you can try out a hotter plug just one number higher and try out the engine behavior. If the engine seems to run smoother and is not failing also the plug lol right and there is no knocking in low rpm or under load you found your plug. If not you might look up older plugs that provide a bigger heat range. The green plug provides old plugs and has a tool to find out which of the older ones you can use.
  21. 1 point
    Review we did on the Parabolic steering stabilizer not too long ago:
  22. 1 point
    Scotts is a good product and was ahead of it's time, but hasn't really changed since the 70's. The biggest thing for most riders is that the Precision Parabolic does not raise their bars or go on top of the bars with knobs and a pointer that slit one recent customers stomach from top to bottom. Our linkage is much more stout, greased, sealed, and wear adjustable. No lubricating with dirt. The Parabolic is adjustable with a bar pad on and has a numbered adjuster We have Thermal compensation. Oil expands at twice the rate of aluminum, it needs somewhere to go. The Parabolic is much lighter with the entire assembly weighing under 1.0 pounds in some applications. this is critical for high center of gravity weight. our shaft to vane is machined from a single piece of 40mm heat treated stainless steel. Compared to a 3mm pin holding them together. Maintenance is much easier. Change the oil without opening the unit Our Bell curve damping without drop off on the sides makes a smoother ride and makes the back end want to follow the front end.
  23. 1 point
    I have never replaced an oil filter since I've owned my bike. It came with SS filters in it. Photos from my oil change this afternoon. Rough calculation, i've saved about $500 in filters since i've had the bike.
  24. 1 point
    Remember your motorcycle was shipped unassembled in a crate with the handlebars and controls unmounted. It would be nice to think a professional assembled your bike. Often the case is it's a fairly inexperienced shop tech. I call them shop monkeys. These are the techs that generally do oil changes and basic maintenance items and have a little experience. I personally believe motorcycle dealerships should help you set up your bars and controls as well as suspension sag and dampener settings for you when you purchase a bike without charging you anything extra since they are already charging you for assembly. Each of the last four new motorcycles I've bought required quite a bit of tinkering brand new when I got them home to set them up properly. I always change the bar position, the lever position and angle to fit my body and riding Position. It's a good idea to check the torque specs of your bars axles and forks pinch clamp bolts. I have often found these to be way over torqued on new bikes to the point they could cause damage. Each of your bikes will be different. The set up on my dual sport is definitely different than that of my single track bike. Bar position is definitely a personal preference for not only your body size but also type of ridding and the trails you're riding. This ride engineering article is a great set up guide line and is written by professionals with a lot of experience setting up bikes for professionals. The bottom line is be certain your bars are not too high or too far forward so that you are not wrestling with them to maintain control of your bike.
  25. 1 point
    I run Scotts oil filters in my WRs, and used it on an XR650R as well. I sometimes check them, and always think to myself, why did I even bother. Lets say I change the oil about 15 times before I clean a Scotts oil filter, and even then think I wasted my time. One thing though, I only do this because I always run a magnetic drain plug, and every other oil change I change the oil after riding the bike for 15 minutes so that the tiny stuff that gets suspended gets drained before it settles back to the bottom again. KEEP CALM, AND RIDE ON.
  26. 1 point
    @ride200mi - still the town clown (your words). Do you have any oil analysis test? If not, how do you know you're results are 'superior'? You do know they dont last forever and require replacement still right? Ever wonder why the automotive filters are paper? Ever had a cup of coffee/tea in a steel filter vs a paper? Higher flow often comes at the expense of lower filtration. Can you cite* a race team that uses SSTL? Everything i find shows even F1 cars (highest tolerances and abuse) using paper. Also, how are you sure youre getting all of the gunk from the inside of the filter out when you clean it? If it gets stuck in it at high pressure, how will you get it out? Wouldnt that impede flow? I've never heard of a paper filter falling apart or dropping pieces into engines (aside from crappy FRAM) - there are stories (many) of SSTL filters falling apart. Also dont forget that not all 'paper' filters are the same... some are synthetic materials and have higher flow with the same small micron filtration. Not all filters are created equal. Kind of funny that this topic usually only comes up with motorcycles... are bike riders really that much more gullible? Do those that run SSTL in their bike run them in their car too?
  27. 1 point
    This "article" is nothing more than a Scotts advertisement . The stainless steel oil filter is a solution to a non-problem .
  28. 0 points
    I think to clean them right u need an ultrasonic so id include that in the cost of the filter lol
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