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Showing content with the highest reputation since 01/19/2020 in Articles

  1. 3 points
    Heat is the enemy of dirt bike and ATV performance, but simple steps can be taken with CV4 thermal protection products to avoid running into bigger problems. Radiator Hoses Not all radiator hoses are created equally. This is never more apparent than when your bike’s hose tears, cracks, leaks or collapses. Odds are, your bike is equipped with old-fashioned OEM rubber hoses, which do a menial job. Chances are, your bike still has OEM rubber hoses, which can crack, tear, and deteriorate. Reliable hoses are a key component in protecting your engine against the dangers of overheating. Fortunately, advancements have been made in radiator hose technology. Silicone is the new go-to material for hose construction. CV4 has taken it a step farther by utilizing the highest-grade silicone material available. Not only does it improve heat and abrasion resistance, but it also makes assembly and disassembly much easier. When you’re dealing with coolant temperatures around 300 degrees Fahrenheit and extreme pressures, it’s peace of mind knowing that the radiator hoses will hold up. CV4 radiator hoses are made of the highest-grade silicone, providing consistent performance and protection through countless pressure and temperature cycles. CV4 is available directly from Wiseco. Want to find radiator hoses for your machine? Call Wiseco today at 1-800-321-1364 Over 2,000 years ago, Greek mathematician Archimedes stated, “The shortest distance between two points is a straight line.” He wasn’t talking about radiator hoses, but the rule still applies. CV4 offers their hose kits in standard and Y-kit configurations. The latter has joints formed into the hoses, which reduces the number of fittings and clamps necessary. Less turns and twists for the coolant to navigate results in improved coolant flow and efficiency. Not only that, the ‘Y’ design helps protect against leaks. Note that the Y-style hose kit costs slightly more than the standard design. Y-kits from CV4 have joints and intersections molded into them where OEM designs would normally have metal joints and hose clamps. This helps reduce chances of clamp failure and coolant leakage while improving coolant flow. Don’t wait until your radiator hoses start leaking or collapsing. Father Time always wins, and your OEM radiator hoses are not exempt. It’s important to also understand that when one hose gives up the ghost, the others aren’t far behind. Improve the performance of your bike with a CV4 silicone radiator hose kit. While you’re at it, pick up a new pack of CV4 radiator hose clamps. They are specifically designed for radiator hoses, clamping the hose efficiently without digging into and tearing the hose material like some standard clamps. See the CV4 products overview on Wiseco's site here. Many OE style clamps will tear into hoses and compromise their integrity. CV4 hose clamps are designed specifically for radiator hoses and allow for repeated assembly and removal without causing damage. High Pressure Radiator Caps Most riders don’t understand the importance of a radiator cap. They remove it every so often to check the coolant level before riding, but otherwise don’t give it much thought. From a design standpoint, a radiator cap is a thing of beauty. Under the cap is a coil spring located between two rubber seals. You don’t have to be Bill Nye “The Science Guy” to understand that water, or coolant, expands as it heats up. That creates pressure inside the radiator. The radiator cap’s job is to keep coolant in the radiator and flowing throughout the cooling system. If there’s too much pressure, the fluid will force the coil spring into the cap. When that happens, incredibly hot coolant will find its way out the overflow hole between the rubber seals and end up on the ground. When the pressure rating for a radiator cap is exceeded, coolant will flow out of the overflow, lowering pressure and coolant boiling point. CV4 caps aim to avoid this. While this is designed to protect cooling system components from excess pressure, lower pressure in the system also means a lower boiling point. The key is to find the happy medium between pressure and boiling point. The CV4 radiator caps are equipped with a stiffer spring rated to withstand a higher pressure (but not high enough to cause damage), meaning the boiling point of the coolant in your cooling system will be higher. A higher boiling point is key for efficient cooling, as boiling coolant is not effective in reducing operating temperatures. With a CV4 high pressure radiator cap, the coolant stays where it’s supposed to–in the bike. This is inexpensive insurance for your cooling system. A radiator cap rated to withstand higher pressure helps protect your coolant from boiling and allows the cooling system to continue efficiently managing the temperature of your engine through a wide range of conditions. Thermal Barrier Film Not all performance can be seen. Case in point, many of the world’s top race teams rely on thermal barrier film to keep their fuel cool. Typically applied to the underside of the fuel tank, as well as around the fuel lines, the film resists heat that is given off from the engine. Sometimes problems out of sight can do the most damage. CV4 thermal barrier film is commonly applied to fuel tanks and fuel line to prevent fuel boil. Maintaining cool fuel temperature is especially important during the hot summer months and/or when riding at higher elevations when the boiling point decreases. Either factor will cause your bike’s fuel to lose its combustibility, which has detrimental effects on engine performance. Fortunately, CV4 literally has your bike covered. Choose between two heat resistance ratings. The silver film protects against highly elevated temperatures that reach up to 1200 degrees Fahrenheit. The gold film protects against temperatures up to 800 degrees Fahrenheit, with the added benefit of reducing temperatures by up to 36 percent. Simply cut out the film in whatever desired pattern you choose and stick it wherever heat is a problem. CV4 thermal barrier film is offered at two levels. Silver protects against up to 1200°F and gold protects against up to 800°F, achieving up to a 36% temperature reduction. Temperature Strips It would be nice if your bike could verbally communicate with you when it’s having a mechanical issue. Fortunately, there are ways to diagnose the problem. Performance changes, weird sounds, odd smells, steam and blue smoke are indicators that something is amiss. Before ever getting to that point, it’s smart to monitor heat emitted by the engine, radiators, shock body, and other vital areas. CV4 adhesive-back temperature strips are the solution. CV4 thermostrips can monitor temperature just about anywhere you can stick them. Here, Geico Honda uses one on the left-side radiator of each of their race bikes. Available in a three pack, they are designed with incremental temperature monitoring sections that change color once that temperature is reached. Each strip shows a temperature reading from 149 degrees to 248 degrees Fahrenheit. Installation is easy. Thoroughly clean the desired mounting surface, peel the adhesive backing off, and stick wherever desired. You’ll get an accurate reading every time. Stick 'em on and the color will change when that temperature is reached. Simple and cheap protection for your expensive machine! Universal Vent Line Kits Chemicals, fuel, time and environmental factors are the chief culprits for vent line destruction. For these reasons you may notice that the vent lines on your carburetor, gas cap, radiator overflow, and/or water bypass lines crack or break. Vent lines are important for proper operation, which is why these oft overlooked items shouldn’t be ignored. CV4 saves the day with their universal vent line kit, which fits a wide range of different model bikes. Made from pure silicone and available in a plethora of popular colors, the line kits are highly flexible for easy installation and removal. What’s most impressive is how the vent line kits are rated to withstand temperatures up to 420 degrees Fahrenheit. That’s a lot of heat! Please note that the vent kits are not designed to replace fuel supply lines. Simple things like vent line can be overlooked after extended periods of time and end up hardening and cracking, causing annoying issues. CV4 vent line helps keep the simple stuff handled, plus, makes it look good.
  2. 1 point
    I just sold 2 bikes on Facebook. I had 2 buyers come from 3 and 4 hours away to Kansas City Metro to pay me top dollar – when there were lots of closer bikes. I was amazed they came from so far. However, there are some horrible listings out there. Some people just don't know how to sell. I figure I have purchased and sold around 20 bikes in my day. I think that makes me a Subject Matter Expert (SME). 1) Clean it – a) Like you have never cleaned it before. Power wash. Foaming engine bright. Toothbrush – use your old one and toss it when done. (Your wife may divorce you if you use hers or yours and put it back in the bathroom.) b) Get all the crap out of the nooks and crannies. Make it shine! c) Pull out the steel wool and clean the aluminum rims, swing arms, etc. d) Remove all stickers, numbers, etc. Clean up so you cannot tell they were there. No one cares about your numbers and they make me think you raced the crap out of it. If they are custom numbers – maybe leave. Probably not if 3 digits = hard core racer. 1 or 2 digits = garage racer. e) Use STP Son of a Gun or Armor All to make the plastics and tires glow. f) Lube it up – chain, footpegs, kick starter. 2) Fix anything that you can – broken plastics or other parts. a) If the cases are worn, consider the plastic covers to make it look good. b) Frame guards are cheap and make it look new. c) Use fine sandpaper to clean up the plastics. d) Try to lube or clean off any rust. e) Paint is cheap…. 3) Pictures – Do’s after cleaning in a well-lit area, with flash. a) Close up of bike only- left and right side. b) Front left and front right. c) Front and rear tires to show treads. If you can see the ‘vent spews’ or gates let them see it. d) Show close up of sprockets to show wear e) Close up of the engine on both sides. f) Rear of the bike. g) Hour meter if you have one h) Any damaged area – dent in pipe, big scratch. Full disclosure. i) Manuel – if you have it. If not find it online and print one – and put it in a nice binder with a cover page. j) Picture of included stuff – nicely arranged, organized, etc. k) Title – maybe cover up part of the numbers to prevent scammers, etc. l) Picture of the model plate –One guy thought he was selling a different year. m) VIN – to share later via PM or text and give them the location to check not stolen. https://www.vehiclehistory.com/ 4) Pictures – Do not … a) Show pictures of the bike through the ages. When new from 10 years ago. Or even before last plastics or stickers change. I am never sure what bike I am buying. b) Show pictures of the bike in your truck or dirty or anywhere but just before you list and just after cleaning. c) Show anything else but the above. d) Show pictures of you jumping or wheeling or anything. One idiot had a picture of him flying 15 ft through the air and you could barely confirm it was the bike. I don’t want to see you or the bike jumping. I’m not buying that, I am buying the bike. e) Show a picture of the bike when stored outside next to your pile of crap 5) Listing Description – a) Give them details about the bike – estimated hours on each of the old and new perishable parts b) Tell them what is great c) Tell them what needs work d) Tell them what is broke e) Tell them the kind of riding you do and have done. Be honest. If you have raced every weekend there are pictures and listing out there. f) Tell them how it starts – cold and hot. 4 kicks cold and 1 hot. g) Tell them what might need to be done in the future. h) Details – some people need them. i) Give them the nearest cross streets without giving address in the listing. Give that when they are on their way. j) See #8 on price. 6) Prepping for the Visit a) I always start the bike regularly while in the sale mode (weekly). I would rather have an issue in advance. I once was selling a YZ 85 and my kids left the gas on. Plug got fouled and I ended up giving the guy $200 off because it would not start. I had a spare plug, that was also fouled. He got a new plug on the way home and it fired right up. b) Tell kids the bike is off limits – see #1. c) Start the bike before the buyer gets, there unless they ask for it to be cold. Even if they want it cold, it would be cold 1 hour after you started it. d) Try to make the garage look like a showroom. I don't want to climb over your crap or be covered in grease. I don't want you dogs sniffing my crotch or scratching my truck. e) Have a plan about them riding the bike – Helmet? Hold their keys and license so you don’t get scammed. f) Be Prepared – Have a spare set of tie-downs, so when they break out the ratchets ones you can save the day. Tools to remove handlebars if they try to shove in SUV. 7) Negotiation – a) Have the price pretty well nailed before they come. b) Be Prepared to lower the agreed-upon price if they find something you did not disclose. I had a guy find a hairline crack in the rims once. So I had to lower the price a little more than I wanted. c) A good deal is when both walk away happy. d) Don't be afraid of silence on the phone or text when you make a counteroffer. e) Know that you are not going to get your money out of the extra $2000 you put into the bike in rims, hubs, and pipe. Sorry. Pull them put the stock back on and sell separately. f) Give an address near you until they are just about to leave. 😎 Research – (Buying or Selling) – do your homework before you list. Know what a reasonable price is for the bike. You don’t want to look like an idiot by listing too high or leave money on the table. a) Look at other similar bikes use the good from their Ads and remove the bad. b) Calculate in your proximity to other buyers. If you live way out, you are going to get less. c) Do your homework on the buyer before you give them the final address. d) If on Facebook, look at their profile. Know your buyer. Don't get scammed. What did I miss?
  3. 1 point
    Renthal employs its 50+ years of experience in handlebar design, testing, and racing to develop the new R-Works Fatbar36 motocross handlebar. Working alongside its factory race teams, Renthal developed the Fatbar36 concept to improve performance through weight reduction without compromising existing handlebar strength. Every time you accelerate, brake, corner, jump, you work against the weight of the motorcycle. By reducing weight, it improves the performance of your motorcycle in all these areas resulting in faster lap times. Renthal employed its 50+ years of experience in handlebar design, testing, and racing to develop the R-Works Fatbar36 into the ultimate in lightweight motocross handlebars. Utilizing Renthal’s 36Tech™ handlebar standard and proprietary Zarilium™ material to give a high strength handlebar at the lowest possible weight. The R-Works Fatbar®36 is 36% lighter than its standard 28mm diameter Fatbar®, previously the lightest motocross handlebar. Lightest Motocross Handlebar At Renthal, they have always strived to produce the strongest, highest quality product they can. Renthal’s current handlebar range is at a strength level its factory level teams feel it needs to be, but weight saving will always be high on their priority list. Renthal made this its priority as well in developing Fatbar36. 36TECH™ – Advanced Technology 36TECH™ is a new handlebar standard developed by Renthal to push forward the boundaries of handlebar technology. The 36mm clamping diameter tapers down to a conventional 22mm control section at each end, using advanced wall geometry, maximizing material efficiencies in wall thickness along the entire length of the handlebar to reduce weight. New Material – 20% Stronger Zarilium® is a new aluminium alloy exclusive to Renthal. This new alloy has 20% greater ultimate tensile strength while maintaining the same elongation properties. This additional strength has allowed Renthal to achieve the maximum weight reduction possible while matching the best in class strength of the Renthal® 28mm diameter Fatbar®. World-Class Testing Renthal is at the forefront of handlebar testing. They are the only handlebar manufacturer using data acquisition and equipped with its own in-house test facility. This perfectly positions Renthal to maximize its 50+ years of handlebar design, development, and championship-winning race experience. The result is the best performing handlebars with unrivalled quality. State-of-the-Art Manufacturing As the global leader in handlebar technology, Renthal takes pride in not only its engineering abilities but also its state-of-the-art manufacturing facility. Taking raw Zarilium tube, Renthal puts it through a host of operations to turn it into Fatbar36. R-Works® The R-Works® badge represents uncompromising performance. It means Renthal has selected the ultimate materials and manufacturing processes at its disposal to bring you the very best performance product they can. What do you think about the Renthal R-Works handlebar? Is this something only the fastest racers will benefit from? Will you be plunking down your hard-earned cash on a pair? Hit us up in the comments section below and let us know what you think. 👍👎🤐
  4. 1 point
    The piston is one of many wear items in your powersports machine. It may last longer than tires or a chain, but it should still be treated as normal maintenance when the time comes. Here, we go through key tips to help you know when it's time for a refresh. The piston in an internal combustion engine is arguably one of the most important components found in the engine. When it comes to high-performance engines used in powersports applications, it is also a component that is regularly replaced and serviced. Knowing when your piston should be replaced and how it wears is key to maintaining a reliable engine. To help you make that decision, we laid out replacement intervals, piston wear, why it’s important to replace the piston, and piston replacement options. Piston replacement intervals are typically outlined in your machine’s factory service manual. Using dirt bikes as an example, many manufacturers outline a piston and ring replacement schedule of every six races or 15-30 hours for a four-stroke, depending on the machine. If you’re new to the sport or have never looked at your factory service manual, these service intervals may seem shockingly short. The service intervals are based on the service schedules required to maintain a high-level racer’s machine. Unfortunately, for the average rider, the outlined service intervals commonly end up being conservative. The recommended piston service intervals outlined in your manual may be shocking, but the actual required service time depends on many variables that differ by each rider. In reality, piston replacement intervals should be established based on how the individual owner rides and maintains their machine. It’s true that forged pistons exhibit greater strength and wear resistance, but the variables of rider and maintenance still apply. Engine displacement, engine make, air filter maintenance, environmental conditions, riding style, and the type of riding the machine is used for will all influence how long the engine should be operated before servicing it. Monitoring the engine’s health through periodic checks such as compression and leak down tests is the best way most riders can appropriately time major service tasks, such as piston and ring replacement. Due to the number of variables that affect engine wear, it is simply not possible to specify a replacement schedule that fits everyone’s needs other than a very conservative schedule. Realistically, there are too many variables to establish an official recommended piston replacement time. Sticking to the short time recommended in the manual can be overkill for some, but keeps things on the safe side. (We are not endorsing dry assembly with this photo, it was just mocked up for photo purposes.) Piston wear will typically occur in four key areas for both two and four-stroke engines, which include the piston skirt, wrist pin bore, ring grooves, and piston crown. The next time you disassemble your top end, keep an eye out for these wear points. Piston Skirt Wear Nowadays, on four-stroke engines, the piston skirt is very short and limited to the major and minor thrust faces of the piston. For reference, the thrust faces correspond with the intake and exhaust valve sides of the cylinder head. Two-stroke pistons use the same nomenclature, but feature much longer, more pronounced skirts. Piston skirts experience load on the major and minor thrust sides, resulting in wear in those areas. Piston skirt wear occurs because of the thrust loading that results from the inherent geometry of the crank mechanism as the engine fires. Peak combustion pressure occurs slightly after top dead center, which causes the piston to thrust into the cylinder wall. Skirt wear can be observed both visually and by measuring the skirt’s diameter and referencing it against the diameter outlined in your service manual. Skirt wear will appear as a polished area on the major and minor thrusting faces of the piston. Notice the polished-looking wear marks on the forged piston on the left, and the vertical wear marks on two-stroke cast piston on the right. These reflect wear after a substantial amount of run time. The grooves on the two-stroke piston are a potential sign of dust/dirt in the cylinder. Your pistons may feature one of a few different types of skirt coating. Wiseco pistons utilize different types of skirt coatings depending on the piston, including ArmorGlide and ArmorFit coatings. These coatings are screen printed on and are applied to remain on the skirt for the life of the piston. You will likely see some wear on the skirt coating after putting time on your piston(s), but if it is worn all the way through the coating, there’s a good chance there’s an underlying issue that needs investigation. Too little clearance, foreign material in the cylinder, and improper cylinder preparation could be causes of excessive skirt wear. This piston is equipped with ArmorGlide skirt coating. However, the wear patterns are indicative of the possibility of foreign material, such as dirt, making its way into the cylinder. On two-stroke engines, skirt wear can occasionally be heard audibly while the engine is running, which is commonly known as “piston slap”. A rhythmic metallic sound often accompanies a loose or worn piston when the engine idles. What can be heard is the piston rocking back and forth in its bore as it reciprocates. Piston Crown Piston crown wear will occur as a result of aggressive or improper tuning, and on four-stroke engines, a damaged or mis-timed valvetrain. Engines operated with a lean mixture at full throttle will see abnormally high combustion temps, which can cause detonation. The results of detonation will be visible on the piston crown as a pitted or eroded surface. The pitting in the center is a pretty clear sign of detonation. In many cases, pitting and erosion will be much more evident the leaner the running conditions. Piston crown damage due to valvetrain contact will be visible as indentations or cracks near the valve pockets. Valvetrain contact can occur due to valve float caused by excessive RPM or mis-timed valves. Notice the half-circles in the valve reliefs. This is a clear sign of valve contact with the piston. Ring Groove Wear The piston rings move in and out of their grooves because of the ignition of the air/fuel mixture in the combustion chamber. Once the mixture is ignited, the cylinder pressure increases which energizes the compression ring and forces it against the cylinder wall, causing it to slide in its groove. On four-stroke engines, the compression ring will transition from seating on the bottom of the ring groove to the top ring groove at the end of the exhaust stroke due to forces of inertia acting on the ring. Ring movement during operation will eventually wear ring grooves beyond their designed size. Substantial run time can also leave carbon deposits in the ring grooves, affecting ring seal and performance. Ring and groove wear can occur due to the sliding and reciprocating motion of the rings and can be exasperated by carbon deposits that accumulate in the ring groove. Ring and groove wear can be qualified by thoroughly cleaning the ring and groove and then measuring each. Most service manuals outline specifications for ring width, groove width, and piston ring to ring groove clearance. Ring wear can be easily visually observed, but can be confirmed by taking axial height and radial width measurements and comparing them to the original spec. Wrist Pin Bore Wear Wrist pin bore wear occurs as a result of the loading of the wrist pin joint through inertia and combustion loading. The wrist pin bore will typically wear into an oblong shape. In some engines, wrist pin bore wear will be visible in the top and bottom of the bore. Usually, a portion of the bore will appear burnished or polished. Alternatively, the wrist pin bore can be measured from top to bottom and from side to side. Both measurements can be compared to one another to determine how much the bore has become out of round and to the diameters specified in the service manual. Wrist pin bores typically wear into a vertical, oval shape due to the pushing and pulling forces of engine operation. Visual inspection can show excessive wear, and a vertical and horizontal diameter measurement can tell you how out of round it is. If it's proving out of round, it's probably time for a replacement. The importance of replacing the piston at regular intervals in high-performance powersports engines cannot be overstated. If left unattended, the resulting cumulative wear of the piston will eventually result in a catastrophic and expensive engine failure. Typically, too much time on a piston can lead to gradual and finally complete failure of the skirt in both two and four-stroke engines. Between aftermarket suppliers and OEMs, replacement piston options are plentiful and can be overwhelming. The most common upgrade and consideration most riders are faced with is whether or not to move to a forged piston. Forged pistons can be a nice upgrade for many riders because they can offer additional strength and wear resistance over cast pistons. Forged pistons achieve greater strength than cast pistons by using different aluminum alloys and manufacturing processes. The forging process for pistons results in finished components that have a tighter molecular structure and grain flow optimized for strength. Comparatively, cast pistons are not cast under high pressures and have molecular structures that are not as tight or organized, which in severe cases, can lead to voids, inclusions, and air pockets. Forging pistons results in a better-aligned grain flow and higher tensile strength. Read more about how Wiseco forges pistons here. Wiseco has been forging pistons in the U.S. for decades and has spent countless hours on research and development to make their forged pistons the option that best combines performance and wear resistance. Still, there is a lifespan to a piston, and the above tips should be used to practice regular maintenance on your machine.
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