Podium

Gets sillier, got another call from the AMA informing me that I was selected.

They had Bobby Harris ride one for a year or two. Never forget watching him at Moto masters let everyone go off the start then he would take off and ride all the way around the outside of everyone in the first turn and come out in the lead, pretty crazy.

some progress pics on the two 1974s I picked up this past September. The yellow 350 didnt run, but does now after cleaning up that carb and electrical connections. The 175 ran when I got it, but was missing airbox, signals and brake light. I'm going to be painting the tank on the 350 this spring attempting to put it back to stock colors. I did a decent job on the fenders for it being a backyard rattle can job lol. I'm awaiting Vermont plates in the mail. Paperwork and checks were mailed 2 weeks ago.

As you get older the ratio of standing to sitting changes. 😉

A dent in what? I have run a 16 on and off for 6 years and never found the need to space out as Tony talked about. I have trimmed some of the rubber swingarm protector and ground about 2 mm off the tips of each of the 16 teeth, also totally eliminated the sprocket cover and case saver. My theory is that with a good modern o-ring chain, rivet master, maintained well, your more likely to get struck by lightning then break your chain.

Did you drain the cooling system BEFORE you removed the head???

Morning MX367 and crew!

Pistons last and last in these engines. Either piston will work just fine. I have a stock pile of 80's 200r engines and I have never seen an actual piston failure, one did have an exhaust valve sticking out of it! I typically use Wiseco pistons when I put them back together, but that is largely based on their easy availability.

That guy is a total moron.

Embarrassing to say I bought his fuel tank connector. However I bought it not for any of his BS claims but for a complete kit and shorter i.e. less to hit in a fall. I felt no change after this was added. Sure you might see something on a dyno but reality is nonexistent in actual riding. He makes a living on making non issues things an issue that is easily fixable with only his items. I lost total respect for him as an expert back in his Magic Mod days.

their all good bikes but id recommend the 250x. its old tech but its lighter and more powerful then the other bikes you listed. its also around 1500$ cheaper. dont worry about the kickstart, they kick over easily. it will be a bigger learning curve then the 4 strokes though because thats where you started with the TTR.

Try McMaster Carr for all of your fastener needs www.mcmaster.com they have gobs of nuts/bolts in all grades and materials to determine what grade it is, look at the bolt head... if it’s SAE it will have slashes or tick marks... count the tick marks and ADD 2... that’s the grade of bolt... Metrics are graded with numbers on the top and are graded differently than SAE bolts google this: how to determine bolt grade

I can’t explain the feeling of doing it because I’m lucky if I can get off the ground (level 1 noob), but I think I can explain principle the break tap is, from what I can tell, a method to quickly bring down the front wheel to level or slight nose down attitude for landing in a more proper position... I would think (again, ZERO experience) that it is done mostly as you said, in a nose too high condition vs doing it every jump... gaining consistently more distance would be BEST achieved (IMO) through proper gear selection, take off speed, body positioning, and launch type (seat bounce vs standing) and also if you compress the suspension on the face (more height) vs absorbing the bike (more distance?) shifting mid air, I think, is done in preparation for what the track is doing immediately after the jump... if it’s a long straight, I assume one would upshift so that they are carrying a higher gear when they hit the throttle upon landing, and if there’s a berm after the jump, I would think that down shifting would help to reduce speed upon landing and before hitting the berm... although *I* would think that downshifting too many gears would cause the chain/suspension to bind up and COULD cause a spill i think the break tap/panic rev are strictly corrective measures done to improve the trajectory, thereby effecting (affecting?) speed and should only be done for that reason... PROPER rider positioning/control is the best way to send a jump most effectively but I’ve never done either on purpose because I suck at most everything MX... I understand the principle, just can’t DO it... YET

I assembled my red Guts Racing soft seat. Not sure I am crazy about the red, but dig the seat material and foam.

The 2 circuits in use at that time are pilot and needle , lean them and your problem will go away

Couple of rides worth of pics. That one ride was going good until I found a small rock! I knew better.

Sure do. A new piston every Monday. Carried a couple of plugs in your kit. Points and condensers. 6 volt ignition systems. 4" of suspension travel. And of course the glorious Bing carbs. Those were truly the days. 😉

They’re both great bikes, and it really comes down to your preferences and riding style. No electric start with the 2 stroke, but to me, 2 strokes are more fun.

Why would you run 100 octane?

200$ for a bigger tank on the x and 140 for a heavier flywheel and you have a bike that could handle anything. It might not be as refined and modern as the Euros but it’s just as light, has more or less as much power and has just as good or better supsension. The X also has a light clutch pull. Yamahas in general are great bikes.

Is this really a prevalent issue? In my circle, I know of only one - a partial intake-side seize. Could have been a number of different causes. In internet land, I still don't think I've seen any mentions of seizing that were attributed to a regular lack of oil. There have been a few on ktmtalk recently, but they were pretty obviously cold seizures.

It's about comfort, not speed. I run 16:39 on 17". I found 15:41 too buzzy even on a stock standard SM, 15 years ago. 🙂 I run 16:41 on an 18" back wheel.

no sweat! and thanks for the p/n.

I rode there this weekend for the first time. It was amazing. It had 9 mx style tracks, one smaller gncc style loop, and woods that seemed to keep going with unmaintained trails without arrwos. Most of the tracks were groomed. At one point I looked over and saw Ryan Sipes silhouette above the trees as he cleared the step-up quad that even Stew Baylor and Josh Strang weren't doing. I think I'll go back in a month or two.

Only .05" forecast this week for Santa Clarita. Next week 1" or more.

There's 237 pages, start from the beginning please and write um all down. I'm waiting 🙇

Yup, I still have a bike with the bing carb. 77 Can Am MX250

That guy has been hawking his bullsh!t wares to people for many years. It's not just a 2-stroke thing. His snake oil dealing was actually more focused on 4-strokes initially. Sadly I think he gets a lot of people to buy it. The placebo effect and Choice-Supportive Bias causes many of them to repeat how well these products work thus entrapping even more people. Doc

Yeah those are good items. Just make sure to ALWAYS wear them

Makes sense. Like I said I’ve never done stuff like that except trial ride and hit a couple of jumps on my xr but that I got a 2 stroke with way more power I just want to be carful and stuff like that. But thanks it was really helpful !

The Tuff Jugs are pretty awesome. https://www.motosport.com/tuff-jug-utility-container

Based on the info you gave, my first 2 top suspects would be a worn through wire some where, or a fuel pump on the way out. What you can do is put it on the stand, let it idle and start turning the bars, pressing on wire bundles, etc.. see if you can get it to fail. Step 2 is figure out how much current the fuel pump is taking. If the pump is starting to fail mechanically, the motor may be drawing more current than it should, eventually blowing the fuse.

I think this may be the case Doc lol. I could feel the difference between stock KYB fork seals and the slicker SKF, the action was smoother.

I belive that someone should print out the exact rule and post it here .... I don't think anybody has really read the rule as it is printed .....

Experiment with using the clutch to meter the power out. You can have it part way in to keep traction, yet not have it get out of control. Feathering the clutch while under power is your friend. Joe

I'm eyeballing a place that does reflashes, suspension, and a bunch other stuff for the 09. These guys seem to specialize with Yamaha's, particularly the fz/mt's. My budget's tight at the moment, so I'm waiting until my '15 300 finds a buyer.

Here's what I've found one the needle jet: For a comparative, if my deductions are correct, say my YZ125 : S-4 needle jet (2.820mm) minus a 43-74 needle (2.74mm) = 0.080mm versus your TX125 : S-7 needle jet (2.835mm) minus a 43-75 needle (2.75mm) = 0.085mm meaning my initial thoughts were wrong as your needle circuit is actually a tiny bit richer than mine right off-idle.

I really hate this style of cartridge design. Digressive or Progressive suggests a transition from one state of being to another. For us that would be soft to hard (progressive) or hard to soft (digressive). I have never seen a true "digressive" curve. As you can see in the chart you posted.....the digressive curve continues to get harder "all the way" through its stroke. It simply reduces the rate of force accumulation but at no time does it get softer. Digression will occur in the presence of cavitation which unfortunately this style of cartridge is prone to. We have worked on many T700s with great success. The standard cartridge can be made to perform really well along with some heavier springs. The stock items are simply too soft Here is an Ohlins NIX cartridge (same principle) performing at 1 metre per second. This speed was chosen simply for demonstration purposes....the oil starts to foam at just over 250mm per second.

Ya I double checked

Yup agreed it fortunately doesn't happen to all sachs but unfortunately it has happened to both of my bikes. 16 sachs cc forks at around 70 hours and I sent them to Motoxgiant to have them hard coated. Even then I religiously torqued triples 12/17. And just recently my 19 shock can started wearing to the point I've had to order another one. Can't explain that one with tight bolts. And the forks are starting to wear but not nearly as bad. Ive actually started tightening triples 10/18 as Motoxgiant suggested when I sent him prior forks. I can safely say it has nothing to do with bolt tightening, at least not on my bike. Nothing against your tuner. The other issue I have is that even with fork service every 30-40 hours both inner and outer oil looks like black tar with silver. As much as I love the performance of the sachs cc when they work i sure am glad beta has gone with kyb. Just my honest experience with my Betas. I still love em regardless. I guess I was wrong about that 0 issue thing. Was thinking more engine related.....

How many hours on the bushes/seals? What seals? I'd also try a different oil, it's fairly cheap to try. (I'm sure I read something bad about motorex fork oil a few days ago related to stiction) Everyone has their favorite they use. I use Dextron 6 atf. Then just double check the usual, clamp torque, alignment etc. A light crosshatch won't hurt, but I've never noticed any difference. I still do it though. One of Terry's (I think) tricks was to use a bit of foam under the dust seal soaked in oil rather than grease. Just pop it out and re-oil every few rides.

I'm in heating and air conditioning and you should see the price difference if you buy a unit that's approved for San Joaquin County. It's literally a 50% price increase. Not to mention the efficiency standards that are mostly driven by the EPA, but also this state that trickle down are causing the condensing units that go outdoors to become enormous. You cannot gain efficiency without surface area? My question is what is your threshold? It's kind of hard when somebody tells me they want the most efficient unit possible and I give them the dimensions and they almost have a heart attack.

An image search shows the bearing with the pin, so it's not just a wrong catalog picture. I suggest RTFM. If the manual doesn't explain how to deal with the pin, look for its corresponding recess in the case. If there's no notch in the case, you are SOL and will have to blaze your own path like taking off the pin and hoping for the best.

Guys, Boyd is in New Zealand. They measure octane by the RON method. We in the US use the R+M/2 method. His 100 octane is our 95. The 96-98 he usually runs is our 92-94.

Idk tho I'm thinking eli be on 🔥 tonight. Kinda glad not doing fantasy this year to hard to pick lol

I'm in the process of giving mine a cosmetic freshen up. Lost momentum TBH, but, season doesn't start until April anyway. Just have to design and order a new graphics kit. And get the original rear shock rebuilt and tuned. I polished the housing. Has new yellow braided brake lines F&R now, plus done a couple of other things. The crooked logo on the clutch cover is really messing with my OCD. Before and after.

Almost done! Technical touch KYB fork kit and Racetech rear shock bladder going on next week! She should be a hoot!

So to add my experience. Bought a 2020 300 xc after racing a yz250x for the last 2 years. I was surprised how harsh these forks were. I ride primarily single track and the deflection on rocks and roots was pretty bad. I did the mx tech A48r kit cap and leaf spring mid valve with the enduro valving. The results are really good they feel very similar to the kyb spring fork. Nice and plush no more deflection

Most of us a mere mortals though and do not race at that level if at all. We can make better use of what the 350 4 stroke has to offer than what a pro can get out of a 300 2 stroke. This is something that seems to be missed every time this is mentioned. Add to that the new 350s are not the old 350s, technology is taking away any disadvantage that it may have once had. But to each thier own, I'm only basing my opinions on my experiences and I'm definitely not a pro racer, could maybe hang with the intermediate crowd at best. I know the game changes significantly at higher levels. I do not think though, that we should base our needs on what the Pros use unless you have every intention of pursuing a Pro level ride. Just pick the color bike you like and learn to ride it the best you can.