Podium

Pretty out here. Now Barbecue bear and beer time.

Putting this out there if your like me and didn't find the information you wanted when you researched this trail. I hope this helps get you out there https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y0cS8A_I7VU

How about a new video? If you like drone footage, this is for you! Watch the cliffs for goats. I am in awe with every trip up here. I am blown away that I spent the last 15 years flying by this area on sport bikes and had no clue all this singletrack was here😡. I have heard quite a few trail stories about the "good ol' days" when nobody knew about this place. I must say I feel bad for the people who have had this place to themselves for years. But I am very thankful it is here to be ridden and shared. Please feel free to contact me if you feel that I am revealing too many secrets. disclaimer: No goats were harmed or even aware of my Mavic Mini surveying from high above.

Or it could possibly be falling in there when you pull the filter.

Start here: https://thumpertalk.com/forums/forum/367-electric-motorcycles/ Of course, mining Lithium is hardly "eco friendly", so pick whatever makes the conscience feel the best.

When closed, it prevents fuel from flowing into the carb. It should be closed any time you are not running the engine. It is very important to close it during transport and when the bike sits for extended periods of time. They also often have a reserve setting so if you 'run out of fuel' you can flip it to reserve and make it to where your spare fuel is located. They also have a filter screen to reduce the amount of dirt from the fuel tank can make it into the carb. It your fuel tap (actually called a 'petcock') leaks, either the seal or the entire petcock needs replacing. It could also be the oring between it and the tank.

According to the tree huggers and the bird watchers no dirt bike or ATV is friendly!

Pretty close... It's the area at the peripheral edge of the head... The flat area and it's closeness to the piston... Charge trapped there doesn't contribute to the main/ pressure peak burn... Squeezing it out adds turbulence for homogenous fast burn AND it adds more charge to it.. It also shields the remaining charge from radiant preheating from the advancing flame front... Preventing spontaneous ignition / detonation... You NEED compression... But compression without the rest of the perfect combustion chamber ... Just has no magic...

Yeah my 2020 TPI felt very soft and slow for the first while, but then when I started to realize how well that translated into traction I started to dig it. I am making climbs that I have no business making when I don't attack it hard enough. The thing just burbles and tractors up with traction that still shocks me 75 hours into owning this thing. I can't even count how many times I think I've sh*t the bed when losing momentum on a climb, but this bike just keeps on chugging along putting the power down.

Thats either an 01-02 or an 03-08 rm250. The biggest differences between the 2 groups was cylinder port design and suspension manufacturers. Best way to verify year would be to check if you have KYB(01-02) or Showa forks(03-08).

Yet 'unofficial user built' hiking and mtb trails appear and are allowed to be used with no issues.

As a yootoober trying to make money it feels like he is really stretching for content sometimes. Then back to the PNW there’s guys like DMG that can barely get a word out without asking you to paytreon him.

Im sure it'll sell at some point. Im just hoping to get a T7 before the wait is too long.

I plan on having a T7, hopefully by the Fall...trying first to sell my 300RR and recovering from a rough injury. Hopefully the Beta sells, but if not I'll just take an ass raping on trade-in. Ce' la vie. The only real competition in the mid-weight ADV category are the T7 and the KTM from what I can tell. And the KTM's are garbage in terms of reliability compared to the Yamaha. So its an easy choice for me.

I think the WR or FX is a no-brainer for you. You've raced and you're not looking to tackle steep/techy terrain. I would never buy a carburated bike. The only 300 2T I will consider is 2020 and later with fuel injection TPI counter-balanced motor.

My larger Jayco JayFlight SLX has a dry weight of 4,200 lbs and even when fully loaded is no problem for the Sprinter..

My Apex head added enough grunt for me to try removing one tooth from the back sprocket (going to a 50)

Sure would like to know the specs. Just two degrees of LCA/LSA change can have a dramatic affect on power delivery.

Forget what he says about suspension, that is some badass riding in that vid.

Motul 800 is more of a racing oil. Like road racing, wot corner to corner, never off the gas, exc. Your probably rich not only at wot/main jet but probably everywhere else too. Spooge and smoke comes more from being rich on your pilot and needle diameter (idle to 1/8) throttle much more than 1/2 to wot(clip position/power jet/main jet.) Do you just have a little drip from your pv breather once in a while or black goo dripping from your silencer, pipe/silencer joint, exc? Leaning the oil ratio is not the right way to get rid of spooge. Going leaner from 32:1 to 40:1 will just make it worse because you've actually just made the a/f ratio richer by making the oil ratio leaner. That's because there is now more fuel in the same volume of oil/fuel mix. If you want to get rid of spooge, you should use a lower flash point oil and possible jet leaner. If you have spooge at 40:1 and you go to 20:1, your probably going to have less of it. Guys run 50-80:1 or worse to try and get rid of smoke and spooge which is the wrong way to go about it. You need more oil and less fuel. They will actually be scared to lean their jetting out but thing nothing of cutting the oil ratio in half. I run my 250x at 24:1 on 2r. I can go for 30+ miles in 1st and 2nd gear never getting much above idle. It never fouls a plug, doesn't smoke much when warmed up and never, and I mean never, drips black oil from the exhaust. Why 24:1 vs 32 or 40:1? When I pulled my top end, I checked the oil pooled in my case with a wooden stick and it was just under 1/8" when you want 1/8-1/4". I notice it runs much smoother now and low end power has increased. Running more oil and buying $30 worth of brass to cut fuel was the best mod I've done. It's better than any pipe I have(fmf, dep, oem), the PV mod, rad valve or head cut. She runs clean....just a film of dry, black smoke inside the silencer. I expect bottom end life to increase exponentially. Check out that smoke ring. Perfect. If you take the spark plug out, it looks almost brand new even after 50+ hours. I'm 500' msl 80f Running 24:1 2r 45 pilot Jd red clip 2 40 power jet 175 main 7.5mm float height.

During the lockdown I started looking for a Honda XR650L on CL. There were a few and most had mileage on them and modifications. Original I was thinking I wanted new but I kept looking and the one I wanted the guy would not budge on price. $4500 with 1700 miles and probably a rough life. Then one popped up for $4500 with 400 miles. Sounded to good to be true. I drove 2 hr to look at it. Basically a new bike. The guy put a FMF muffler on it and he said he needed to take it to the shop as it would not idle. I told him I would take it as is $4250...sold so glad the guy with the beater would not budge. I think his bike is still for sale!

Like this? New Pro-X rod kit, both NX650 gears, second & fifth, new counter shaft, updated shift shaft return spring, EBC clutch and spring kit, Wiseco 101 mm, 657 cc, 10.5cr piston, new cam chain and chain guides, new OE cam and rockers, valve job w/ new seals. All new OE seals and gaskets. New oil filter, spark plug and exhaust header seals. Engine cases bead blasted then painted with Dupli Color Ceramic high temp silver engine paint. Primer, color coat and then cleared. Stator, clutch and rocker covers are powder coated a fine texture wrinkle black. Polished stainless steel bolt kit.

I keeping an eye out for an RMX450, for a street legal SM. You can pick them up cheap as chips, and most are low ks/miles. A lot of noobs bought them, and never rode them. I typically put RMX parts on my RM's and RMZ's. If possible. If Suzuki brought out a new 125 2T, they'd sell a million of them. I've converted this into an XC, but, was extremely popular when i was using it for MX. I'm happy being the only Suzuki rider on most rides. I ride an exotic bike these days lol. "As rare as rocking horse shit".

The pipe and silencer can become saturated with unburned oil (spooge.) Clean your pipe and repack your silencer as mentioned above. Even properly jetted bikes will eventually saturate the silencer and cause excess smoke/spooge. This is just part of regular maintenance. You can do a leakdown test on your motor to ensure your wet side main seal isnt leaking. It's very common and will cause excess smoke/spooge. More than likely, your bike is just jetted a bit richer than it needs to be. Jetting and the the terms rich vs lean is all about fuel to air ratio and not fuel to premix oil. You could also be using a premix with a higher flashpoint temperature than necessary for the tune of your bike and your riding style. Spooge/smoke is caused by the engine temperature being too low to burn the majority of the premix away. Its that simple, engine temperature. So you could try a premix with a lower flashpoint temperature. If that doesnt work, than you need to jet leaner to raise the temperature of your engine at its normal operating cycle. This next point always starts an internet forum battle.... but reducing the amount of premix oil actually increases the amount of fuel in your air fuel mixture (less oil displacing fuel.) Adding fuel makes the mixture richer and a richer air/fuel mixture runs cooler. And we know smoke and spooge is caused by unburned premix from an engine running too cool. So its working against your desired out come UNLESS you rejet. Can you run less oil in your premix ratio? Yes. Do you need to? No. Is one way better than the other? Opinion. Some folks are successful with great running and long lasting motors using less oil. Some manufacturers even spec less oil (KTM.) But even if you choose to go that route, you will have to rejet. So pick an oil you like, stick with it and the ratio... then jet your bike according to your tune and style of riding. Each bike and rider are slightly different. While your main jet seems large to me, it may not be the just the main or the main at all. It might just be your pilot, air screw, needle, or clip setting. Your main should have little to no affect on its smoking sitting around in the pits. Plenty of tutorials on the proper process for jetting two strokes here in this forum. Don't be afraid to experiment a bit. There isnt a single point on the jetting spectrum thats right for everyone and there is a significant range thats safe to play around in. The stock main is 178, going to a 182 isnt even close to being on the dangerously lean side unless there was some heavy mods going on. Keep track of how it feels and have a few extra plugs on hand to inspect. Many folks (myself included) can get the YZ250 to run clean and crisp with 32:1 even when used in slow technical terrain and low throttle openings. Its all about jetting and engine temperature. Good luck. 👍

In the meantime.. the head is back together. Seats cut, new springs, new keepers, Wiseco 1pcs valves👍

In all my years riding, holding a KX500 wide open up Horsepower Hill at Washougal with an absolutely perfect track (during amatuer days for the National in the mid 90s) is way up there in the memorable moments that weren't race wins.

It’s an Rm250. Newer than 2000. The 96 to 2000 had 50mm conventional forks. I’ve been watching ebay for the conventional fork for my husky 510, so the 96-2000 is out.

my impression was that he say 180, heard about 220 rule, got worried. I've graduated from nuclear stress tests, had a lot of them. 11 years next month since the big one and the replumbing.

IIRC, you can lay the bike on its side and pop the cover off without draining the oil. Might be slightly messy though if you aren’t careful

14th based online

Do it right. Get some paint stripper and mask off around the spot. Apply stripper and brush off with a brass wire brush.

That's the bummer is that hardly any will ever buys the bikes or cars and pulls them down and measure clearances... They will usually start with an OEM piston and go from there... That's where I learned a lot by spec'ing out my own dimensions when I was operating Venom Performance... I bought or borrowed all the machines and made all the measurements myself and them gave field feedback and answered dimensional checks when I designed my own Venom pistons.... Learned a lot from the exchange too... But the big deal was if I had room to tighten squish clearance to my own comfort level from years of engine building... .035" on modern thumpers... I could pick up a lot of compression ... Without sticking a overlap flow and flame front blocking dome in the middle of the combustion chamber.... All truth and no ego on it... One of my 12.25:1 pump gas pistons would out perform any other non optimized race gas piston... +2hp in a 450 for just replacing your worn out piston with another pump gas piston.... The bitch of it was then the same as it is now... You can't teach non technical /testosterone poisoned / dirt riding guys shit... They don't want to learn anything technical and get offended if you try and tech them something (generalization)... They would rather pay BIG$$ for blah blahs race shop that gives you NO specs... Than admit there is anything that their cousin who is king of the local gravel pit on his 3 wheeler doesn't know... Same as it ever was.. You have to mock it up and clay check it all.. .050" is typical because factories add clearance for guys who don't ever change their pistons but once a decade... And they don't want interference as the worn piston rocks as it rolls over TDC... Most companies give you comp ratios based on whatever version of the machine comes with minimum gasket layers...

few weeks back I paid $2500 for a clapped 03 YZ125. Three years ago, paid $5500 for my 15 Beta 300. CV19 has destroyed bike affordability!

Wait until you taco that fragile rear brake lever, oem is 130, aftermarket is 150. And you WILL taco it if you ride any ST. Put a brake snake on it now.

Is the axle nut the issue? 🤔 A 27mm 1/2” drive socket and a breaker bar should do the trick with ease. If it is still hard to break loose, pull harder. I would bet money on previous owner owning a pneumatic impact driver and no clue on where to properly use it.

my carburetor Beta can stop on a techy steep hill climb and start again without trench digging. It's not the FI that exclusively delivers this ability. The 2019 TPI was said to be really good too - I'd be happy with one but I'm already happy with my 15 Beta 300 and it has a carburetor.

Many shops have been doing this since the AER CV forks appeared.

Doesn't he put like 20+ hours on each bike he reviews? Can't say I've seen any other vlog/reviewer do that much. Usually they're in such a hurry to get a vid out that they barely ride the bike for one day. He has a definite 2-stroke bias, and for the riding he does, I totally get that. Love his older stuff - the actual cross-training content. The newer stuff is a little cooky. But this thread is already way off-track. 🙂

Since there isn't a dedicated section for clearance deals, promo codes, etc for cheap parts.. If you guys get emails or otherwise know about some crazy steal of a deal lets use this area to share our knowledge so other motorbike enthusiasts can save money while enjoying new gear parts service and so on! I' will start... https://motolifestyle.net/collections/clearance It's a Canadian based site, but I found some name brand goodies that shipped free to me in the US for half off. And the package got here in a few days.. the exchange rate makes things 👌

Gonna guess the Xtrainer is the exception since there are like 2-4 videos on it lol.

You do have to filter what Kyle says because he can be full of shit some days. I agree he's a recreational squid -- just like me.

707 275 1430, recorded line.

I'm still running the stock yz125 power valve spring. I might try the MX head but from what I've heard, it decreases compression from stock and gives only top end power. While I would like a little bit of that hit back, it's a very minor gripe and I don't want to lose that new low end pull.

You tell him Motox !!! Rest your a$$ and heal that $hit up ! (and go see a Doc who works on that stuff)

Not yet. Building up a 'swap in' engine. Still waiting on some other parts. Could be a week or three.

2001-2002. Slotted disc brakes . Not drilled like 2003. KYB rear shock and forks. Rear brake reservoir not integrated . Kick starter lever. Good luck. Clean looking bike. I had an 03 for 5 years. Eventually the right crank seal started leaking , easy fix.

New piston at 89.6 hours on woods-ridden YZ250X. With not riding much given mid summer heat, seemed like a good time to do a top end. I have read “woods or not, better not go too long” and “no problem going past 100 hours” and everything in between. By the looks of mine, probably could have gone >100 hours with low risk. But better safe than sorry I suppose!

Get the Rekluse! It’s the best way to go.