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Showing content with the highest reputation since 05/30/2019 in all areas

  1. 45 points
    Hey all, great discussion on this topic and I'm happy to see that it's inspiring spirited debate! This topic is pretty close to my heart as the technology director at Maxima and primary formulator behind the new oils. I'd like to provide a little more info as to why we ran certain tests and why those tests matter. I'd love to hear your thoughts and will be happy to elaborate further and answer any additional questions as I'm able. For my part, I've been working with oil my whole professional career. I graduated from Pitt with degrees in chemistry and biology and went to work at a lube blending plant / refinery (American Refining Group) right out of college. If any of you are also 4-wheel guys you might recognize their former brand name Brad Penn. After that I was a technology manager at Lubrizol, the largest of the big 4 additive companies, where I developed additive packages, specialty chemicals and finished fluids for oil companies. It was at Lubrizol that I began working with Maxima, ultimately joining Maxima a little over three years ago to manage their technology. As a former moto rider, current motorcyclist and all around enthusiast for things that burn fuel and go fast, it was a perfect blend of my professional experience and personal interests. Maxima being located in San Diego had absolutely nothing to do with it... Sorry for the boring intro, but the intent in sharing my background is to add some legitimacy to the message and hopefully offer some assurance that I'm not some snake oil salesman blowing Castor 927-scented smoke back up your respective tailpipes. I'm not a marketing guy or salesman and am legitimately surprised they're letting me speak directly to consumers due to my occasional lack of uh...tact, if you will. So, on to PEAC, "Performance-Enhancing Additive Chemistry", pronounced "peak". I came up with the acronym myself and since I am neither a marketing guy nor especially creative, that's why it's lame. Sorry. Lameness aside, it has real meaning and really does improve performance. It was noted that our primary power gains in the dyno curve are at low to mid engine speeds. This is 100% true and the reason is because the aforementioned additive chemistry reduces friction at those very speeds, the "boundary and mixed lubrication regimes", in nerd-speak. As engine speed increases and/or load decreases, moving out of boundary and mixed friction, additives stop playing much of a role in regard to friction as the hydrodynamic lubrication regime is entered. In this lubrication regime, fluid viscosity is the primary determiner of friction and since both oils were 20W-50s, with nearly identical kinematic viscosity and high-temperature / high-shear (HTHS) viscosity, it makes sense that they start to look more similar as engine speed increases. The only way to see large differences at high engine speeds is to use a thinner fluis, but if we had used a 10W-40, for example, it would have defeated the purpose of the exercise. We wanted to show that if you have a machine that recommends viscosity grade X, the new oil will help facilitate more power output than the previous iteration in the same machine using the same viscosity grade. Factory Kawasaki was kind enough to help us prove that out with dyno testing. The reason we discuss clutch friction and compared with a leading OEM oil is because in most cases when you reduce friction to increase power, some slippage is experienced in the clutch, often to a detrimental degree. We wanted to show that our new oils help increase power while also still helping to facilitate effective power transfer through the clutch. You can have the most powerful engine on earth, but if the output doesn't get to the wheels, it doesn't really matter. For cleanliness, it's a fair argument that it is insignificant if you're changing your oil very frequently, but not everyone does. Also, we had to account for other applications where our oils are used, such as street, that do run much longer drain intervals. The 125cc engine was chosen not to mimic a dirt bike or a road bike, but to provide the most severe conditions possible. Power density (output/displacement) is typically higher with smaller displacement engines and provides the most challenging environment for an oil to maintain cleanliness. Running it for 48 hours at full load and high temperature ages the oil artificially to mimic the cumulative effect of many, many hours of riding. Ester-fortified means that we have selected and included specific esters to do specific things. In the case of Pro Plus, those esters help to improve power. In engine oils, esters are used as base oils, similar to a PAO or a grp II mineral oil. The difference between esters and most other base oils is that esters act more similarly to additives in that they're functionalized, meaning they interact with surfaces. Most other base oils act as carrier fluids and do not have any functionality, while esters add benefits beyond what can be achieved with additive chemistry alone. In this specific case, the esters we use in Pro Plus help to provide that increased power at high engine speeds you can see in the dyno comparison. The esters help to keep friction lower at high engine speeds, where in their absence, these two oils of equivalent viscosity would otherwise have equivalent power output. I'm not aware of any 100% ester 4-stroke engine oils on the market, since esters are like most other things, in that there can be too much of a good thing. Specifically, too much ester can compete with additives like ZDDP, detergents and dispersants, ultimately resulting in a loss of performance. Not to mention that since esters are polar, they can attack elastomers in seal and gasket materials, causing them to degrade prematurely. It's all about balance, using the right components, in the right amounts, for the right application. This response has been a novel and I apologize, but before I stop blabbing I have to address Rotella. With 100% cross-my-heart honesty, I can tell you Rotella is a fantastic oil. I personally know the fine gentleman who created the additive package specific to Rotella and who worked with Shell to develop the finished oils. He's one of the smartest people I know at a company full of very smart people. In retrospect, I have no idea why they hired me. Anyway, as I said, Rotella is an absolutely phenomenal oil...for heavy duty diesel engines. The demands of heavy duty diesel means that Rotella contains a bunch of detergent and subsequent TBN, a ton of dispersant to handle all the soot and contaminants produced from diesel combustion, boatloads of antioxidant due to long drain internals, etc. etc. All of these things are great for just about any engine, but do you need that much detergent or dispersant for a dirt bike or a street bike? You sure do not. "But it's cheaper, so why not?" Because you want to go faster, right? Or heaven forbid, want better fuel economy??? Dispersants and detergents are big, surface-active molecules that create drag and increase friction, reducing power. Diesel oil has tons of both, because it has to, so while it may be cheap, and it will work, and you almost certainly won't have any hardware issues, it's not giving you any more than protection. It's not giving you an edge or an advantage, even a minuscule one, because it's not a racing oil. It's made specifically for a different application, where our oil was designed from the get-go to help maximize power from your machine. I spent the last three years working on these oils and getting them as close to racing perfection as possible, because we're Maxima Racing Oils, not Maxima "Adequate, Cheap and Available at Walmart" Oils. Thanks for hearing me out, assuming you're still awake and I'd love to hear any more feedback, questions or castrations you guys have. I'm quite delicate, so please take it easy. Cheers, Mike
  2. 39 points
    Riding alone rules, you just have to step up your level of preparedness. Your friends will knock up some flooz and never ride again, keep your eye on the ball here, bike first, everything else second, or fifth.
  3. 38 points
    Purpose: I like working with my hands, and wanted to come up with my own skid plate at a fraction of the cost of those on the market. I’ve previously used and OE Hard parts aluminum and HDPE skid plates, but found them to have high sliding friction and/or weight compared to other modern materials. The total cost of material for this project was approx. $50 CDN. Tools are not included in cost. Difficulty: 3 out of 5. You need to have some knowledge of how to use tools such as a rivet nut, jig saw, and heat gun. Build Time: I believe this could be done in approx. 3-4 hrs or less if you are a good fabricator. In total this one took about 8 hrs to do, but my lesson learnt was I a lot of time trimming the plastic down to suit as I had a poor initial template. I think I could get the second one down to ❤️ hrs as the template is the majority of the work. Plate Material: UHMW has very high impact and abrasion resistance in comparison to OEM style HDPE skid plates. You may be able to use Nylon as well. UHMW is the same material I believe both Obie link guards and SXS Slideplates are made form. I'm not sure if TM Designs uses Nylon or UHMW, but I believe they are using Nylon. UHMW should have no issues withstanding the heat of the engine, but leave some room for your exhaust. Nylon would withstand heat better but is much harder to form. I chose to use 3/16" material as that is the same thickness as my previous KTM OEM skid plate and Obie link guards. I have a friend who followed my procedure and successfully used 1/4", but it is a bit harder to mold/bend. I believe the SXS slideplates are also made of 1/4". Tools & Material Required: A bench vice or other method of clamping the material Cardboard (of similar thickness to the UHMW) Sharpie/pen Measuring tape/ruler Paint pen Jigsaw Scissors Heat gun Hole saw Hack saw Rivet nuts and gun (purchased at harbor freight in the USA or Princess Auto in Canada) I recommend to use high quality knurled steel rivet nuts, not the cheap aluminum ones UHMW sheet 1” Aluminum tubing (for front mounts) Roughly 1/8” Aluminum flat plate (for rear mount) Low Profile Hardware (I recommend Stainless Hex Socket Flanged Button Head Hex Screws). Button head cap screws will also work. Template Process: Start by cutting a template out of cardboard, this is a method I jokingly like to call CAD (Cardboard Aided Design). Tape and form this to your bike frame; markup and trim the cardboard until you get the shape and profile of the skid plate you desire. Be sure to get this template precise, as the cardboard is much easier to cut and change than the final UHMW material. Transpose the cardboard onto the UHMW and use a paint pen to trace out the profile; mark up the cuts and bends. Plastic Process: Cut the plastic using a jigsaw or band saw, and a hacksaw as required. I recommend a jigsaw for tight corners. You can use a file to clean up any cuts for a more professional look. The process of forming the UHMW involves the use of a heat gun and a vice to clamp and form your bends. Heat up from the inside of your bend, and in addition make quick passes with the gun on the outside. You will see the material become shiny and glisten with heat; this is when it will form well. If you don't heat up the outside, the plastic will separate and crack. Take care not to overheat and melt the material. I recommend testing with a small scrap piece prior to performing on your skid plate cutout. Slowly bend the material and hold it in place until it cools and maintains form. You will find you need to over bend it, as it will spring back a bit. Keep moving the plastic cutout to the bike and checking the fit until all of your bends are completed. You can reheat and increase or decrease the angle of the bends as you like to get a nice fit. I drilled a few large holes in the bottom for drainage and washing purposes. You can add a hold for oil draining as well if you like. Tip: If you did not heat the outside of the bend properly and/or over bent it, you may have cracked the material. I used a HDPE (P-Tex) stick to plastic weld some minor cracks I made before I learned it was necessary to heat the outside of the bend. You can purchase these at snowboard/ski shops in stick form. Simply light the stick on fire and drip it into the cracks. These sticks also work well for repairing stripped holes in KTM gas tanks where wood screws are used. Mount Fabrication: I made three mounts in total out of aluminum. Initially I only had two, but with all of the rocks and logs we ride over here I found the skid plate was not as secure as I would have liked. The 2 forward mounts were made of 1” aluminum square tubing. I simply cut 3 sides of the tubing so that I had tabs that stuck out and rested on the frame. I then drilled holes in and inserted rivet nuts to create threads for the fasteners. These mounts were then transposed and aligned to the skid plate to drill holes to match for the screws. The rear mount was made by bending aluminum into an S shape, so that it would clamp on the rear frame brace by the swingarm. This was then similarly transposed to the skid plate for drilling holes. I used rivet nuts to create the threads for this mount as well. Optional Work and Lessons Learned: I made the 2nd front mount to fasten the skidplate better, as with initial testing and riding over large logs, the old one appeared loose. I also added a second small square piece of UHMW to the linkage guard, as I found this area was wearing due to impacts from rocks and logs. I simply drilled holes and secured it with button head cap screws. A poor template will result in trimming more plastic, which takes much more time. Make sure to get the template right the first time, as it is a lot easier to cut and transpose to the plastic. The plastic can be quite slow cumbersome to cut! Conclusion: Now that I have fabricated one, I likely won’t ever buy a skid plate again. This was a pretty easy and fun project, and will save you a lot of money if you don’t consider your time required. Having developed a good template, it will be quick and easy to build a second one.
  4. 37 points
    Don’t need to be solo. Got a helmet and gloves on and outside and away from most people. . That’s maybe the safest place. Can be with a group. I was going today but it’s the 1 year anniversary of my Dad’s passing. I’ll go probably tomorrow. We must celebrate being alive and being lucky enough to go ride. Life is short. Today was a cluster&%$#@! with my family arguing. I should have gone riding. My Dad would have appreciated it. He called Sundays the Holy day of motorcycles. He was a hardcore motorcyclist on the road and in the dirt. He made races.. cutting trails.. drag raced.. raced off-road hard enduro type hare and hounds. He loved riding and he was pretty good for starting dirt riding in his 30’s. But yea go riding and avoid the Corona virus. That’s the smart thing to do.. some old pics of my Dad..
  5. 36 points
    just purchased a 2012 yz125 If he JUST bought it, maybe the used bike didn't come with one and he's not had time to get one yet. Maybe he wants to ride now and thought TT would be a good place to get some key info in the interim? Want to help the sport? Help the new guys willingling w/o the condescending attitude. I'm confident that suggesting a user manual or even better shop manual can be made without it. Boom... and the doc makes my point. Thank you sir.
  6. 32 points
    Da fuq you don't have a rim lock? Install the rim lock! Find whoever advised against having a rimlock and go kick them in the dick..
  7. 30 points
    Thankyou guys i appreciate it. Still in icu going to be long road or rehab ahead but ill be back on top
  8. 30 points
    That’s a f*cked up thing to do, unless there is full disclosure. Fix it right, ride it or sell it. Or just sell it letting the new owner know what is wrong with the motor. Doing what timmy.g said is just wrong in so many ways. Your bike has issues. No reason to screw an unsuspecting buyer with unethical practices.
  9. 30 points
    I got nothin... Only rule I follow is don't go down hills I can't get back up...
  10. 29 points
    Hi all, This has been brewing for a while. My initial goal was to sort a fuel injection system that left the stock CDI in place and was a "plug though". This however is quite difficult to achieve. The main issue being the way that the CDI gets it's spark timing with a long tooth and short tooth on the flywheel. This research, however, sparked something in my head and I began to look for a simpler way to get the correct triggering signals from a flywheel with the least amount of effort. So I went about setting up a dummy motor, less the head and a few bits. I removed the cam chain, flywheel bungs so I could rig it up to be turned with a battery drill. With the stator in place I figured that I'd check out the signals from the flywheel and see what I got. The way the CDI works is it uses a single wound coil on the stator for RPM measurement, this comes back on the black and white CDI cabling from the stator. this generates a nice sine wave with six complete cycles per revolution of the flywheel. This is a good start. Next the teeth on the outer of flywheel generate a long pulse and then a short pulse. My hypothesis on this is that it uses the long pulse to signify charging and short pulse to make the spark. No matter what I did the ECU (a MicroSquirt) didn't like the long pulse even with some code modification to allow it to ignore the long pulse - it was still too long. Did I mention that I like open source products, anyway the hack didn't / doesn't work (on a MicroSquirt at least). The next course of action, unfortunately, modify the flywheel. Not in a major way just a bit of tooth removal with a file, at home on the bench. Lets face it lots of us are in lockdown due to Corona Virus. So here we go: I marked what I thought I wanted to do: Now, the reasoning behind removing the existing short tooth and shortening the long tooth is to move the trigger to a point that is well before TDC and when we want the spark to fire. The ECU is really good at keeping abrest of where the flywheel is exactly thanks to those magnetic poles and single coil pickup. You can see above my rough workings on the flywheel and the magnetic pole markings around the flywheel as well as the material that I wanted to remove. I made a flywheel mummy from masking tape as its much easier stop the filings getting in the magnets than trying to remove them once they are there. You can see the exact parts of the teeth to be removed. Short tooth gone, big tooth modification under way. Twenty or so minutes of filing and some light sanding this is the result. The resultant combination of sine wave and single tooth fits the very closely to one of the trigger patterns that is standard in the MicroSquirt - commonly called dual, toothed, trigger wheels the exact pattern is 6 crank speed teeth (AC sine waves with zero crossing points) and one crank speed indexing tooth. In effect this is not dissimilar to the first DRZ that I injected, the main difference is I machined a ring that had 18 crank speed teeth minus one crank speed tooth, for indexing and only used one pickup. This way is similar so should yield similar results. This is enough information to let the ECU run spark and semi-sequential fuel injection. Now for the rest of the test rig: A MicroSquirt: This board, that simulates TPS, Map, Coolant Temperature, Air intake temperature and has lights for fuel pump, injector and ignition (its called a JIM Stim). You basically hook your ECU tails to it for test purposes (not needed for real deployment): You can see a little red board above the simulator, that's a FET driver and connected to that is a high output white LED. I have the trigger of that board connected to the simulator's ignition out and with the ECU told to fire statically at TDC this will provide a strobe light at TDC to check that we have the correct engine timing. The stator plugs into the ECU in very much the same way as the CDI. Note there is a shunt 33ohm 1/2 watt resistor required on the Blue and Green Stator wires as the signal from this little beastie is very hot, without this all sorts of chaos ensues. There is a video here, it's not very good because the modern phone's capture rate interferes with seeing the strobe so sometimes it looks like it doesn't fire, when it does in real life. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TwRMBvlUPeo The complete test rig: So with the test rig all set up and the computer plugged in here is what we get: One indexing pulse and six rotational pulses. Here's hoping perfect for fuel injection. Next stage - prep the throttle body and ECU. Then install the flywheel, throttle body and ECU on the bike! Stay tuned.
  11. 28 points
    I know I said I was gonna wait for the 2020s. Was offered a GREAT deal, thanks to Fatty's Cycle (they still have a 19 300rr on the floor, fyi...). And now, we must rejoice, for I am now.... The Italian Sausage. Still 230 Sausage, too, but whatthe&%$#@!ever, all that matters now is I am officially a Beta Boy and I am in two stroke, two hundo heaven today. Praise be me.
  12. 27 points
    I'm jealous of all of you guys with these massive shops. I have a 12x10 Tuff Shed barn style with a 80sq ft loft. 6ft7in tall double doors. Biggest I can do without a permit in CA. You'd be amazed at how much work I have been able to accomplish in this badboy.
  13. 27 points
    Yes there is my friend , the PW50 , never need a top end ....ever
  14. 26 points
  15. 25 points
    It is completely natural for humans to eat meat and the species would have been in extreme danger if it hadn’t been so. Humans have teeth that were designed for cutting and tearing flesh. Humans also have a digestive system that is designed to digest both meat and plants. This wouldn’t have been necessary if humans were meant to be herbivores. My brother and his looney wife and family went vegan. But they are also socialist democrats, voted for Hussein Obama and Killary. But you go girl!
  16. 25 points
    You were talking to a couple of idiots.
  17. 23 points
    Yesterday I took the plunge and bought a new YZ125X. Doing research I found very little first hand info on the new bike. Yes there was the basic first look but no tests or ride reports. I figured what the hell let's just do this. I'm a big guy that loves small bores. I currently own a 2018 KTM 150xcw, 2009 Husky WR125/165 and a 1988 CR125. I have also owned a KTM 125sx 150sx and a older YZ125. If you're unfamiliar with what a 125X is go look it up then come back. I'm not going to go over all the changes they made vs the regular YZ. Seeing the bike in person it looks good. Doesn't look really any different except for the factory kickstand. Fit and finish is typical Yamaha meaning good. Looking it over nothing seemed out of place or wrong so let's fire this up. Bike started on the 2nd kick with the choke. After a quick warm up I put it in gear and headed up my driveway. I should at this point say I have 5 acres of land with about 2/3 of a miles of trails cut. There good for testing out a bike and getting it ready for the " real" trails. After a quick trip up and down the driveway I had to stop riding. The jetting was way off. I mean this was the worst factory jetted bike I ever bought. Yamaha must have used the same guy KTM did for jetting specs. Way way to rich off the bottom to 1/4 throttle. The Mikuni carb comes with a 40 pilot 430 main and a 43-74 needle. The dealer had the air screw 3 1/2 turns out too. Luckily I had a 35 pilot that I could put in. The 35 pilot was more in the ballpark but it's still to rich. I changed needles to the 44-74 on clip 2 position. That's a 1/2 clip leaner . Now its good enough I can ride it without fouling a plug. With the jetting mess taken care of for now I can start breaking it in. Im a believer for a fast break-in. Ride the bike but don't over rev it for the first hour. I've done a half a dozen bikes like this and never had a problem. So what do I think of the motor? It's pretty impressive for a 125. Whatever Yamaha did they did it right. It has power right off idle not a ton but very close to the 150xcw. In fact the motor feels a lot like my 150xcw but just a tad softer with a little less hit. That's a good thing because it means the bike is going to work. I did a few 3rd gear pulls and it's really close to the 150xcw. I'm ordering a leaner needle and will get the jetting spot on then I can really evaluated the motor. My first impression is Yamaha hit a home run. Suspension and handling its hard to make a call. Nothing is wrong and overall the bike feels good. Things just need to break-in and be adjusted. The forks feel about right with the stock .42 kg springs. The forks may be over sprung. I'm 215lbs and don't think I need to change them. The shock is definitely to soft for me but not bad . The stock 4.7kg spring will be replaced with a 5.2 I have. The tires suck, at least the front. Dunlop AT81's fronts are horrible. Doesn't instill any confidence. I have a new tire coming. Other than the front tire trying to kill me the bike corners great. The lightweight feel of the bike is going to be a lot of fun. Speaking of weight Yamaha list the bike at 209lbs ready to ride. They actually we're pretty close. Before riding the bike it got weighed with a full tank of gas . 212lbs is what I got so only 3 pounnds of there spec. Yes the scale says 214.2 but the lifting straps were 2.2lbs For comparison the 150xcw weighs 227lbs with full tank. I'm going to give it a few more rides around the house before taking to the trails. I still need to cut the bars and install some handguards. Plus I'm waiting for a FMF TC2 spark arestor and skid plate. As of now I can tell this will be a really good bike. I think it will be able to compete with a KTM 150 head to head but at a lot lower price point. Stay tuned more to come. If you have any questions please ask.
  18. 23 points
    Quite honestly and with all due respect, if you have to ask, you are not qualified to repair it.
  19. 23 points
    Helmet is too big. It should not move about while you ride
  20. 23 points
    Different type of ride for me this weekend. My daughters first time riding on anything but an open field. She crushed it and had a ball. I thought, best case scenario, she would ride for 30 min and be done. Our first loop was 2 hours. Then made a fire, cooked some s’mores, then did another quick 30 min ride. Super proud of how she did!
  21. 23 points
    Have you ever ridden a buddy’s bike and walked away wishing that you didn’t have to get off because everything just clicked as you were riding it? On their bike, you could rail every corner, absorb every bump effortlessly, and feel completely stable at high speeds. Once you got back on your bike it feels slow, riding over rough terrain wears you out, and taking corners is best described as unpredictable. To make matters worse, you and your buddy could have the exact same bike! What could possibly account for the huge gaps in handling between the two machines? By design, numerous tweaks can be made to significantly influence how your dirt bike handles. Some of these alterations are as simple as turning a few adjusters, while others require more involved labor such as disassembling forks to swap out springs and dampers. Today’s focus will be on introducing all the different variables that can be adjusted, which ultimately impact how your bike handles. This is the start of an in-depth series on motorcycle handling where I’ll be going into extreme detail on how to make adjustments to individual areas on your dirt bike. For the sake of clarity, I’ve broken out all the things that we can consider adjusting into two categories: geometry variables and suspension variables. What is challenging about tuning the handling of a dirt bike or motorcycle is that all the different options available to adjust are in one way or another interconnected. This means that geometry variables often influence suspension variables and vice versa. If we consider the bike as a whole we have: Center of gravity - The center of gravity is simply a point in space where, if we consider the weight of all the bikes components, the distributed mass sums to zero. For visualization purposes, the center of gravity is a hypothetical point in space where the entire weight of the bike is concentrated. For our purposes, these definitions may not seem particularly tangible, however, what is important to consider is that the center of gravity’s position will have a significant influence on the bike’s stability and handling. Wheelbase - The wheelbase defines the distance between the front and rear tires’ contact patch. Wheelbase adjustments will affect how stable the bike feels. Weight Bias - The weight bias defines the distribution of the bike’s weight between the front and rear wheels. Seat Heat - Seat height can influence handling by altering the combined center of gravity of bike and rider as well as be an ergonomic consideration. Ergonomics - Ergonomics refers to all the small adjustments that can be made to make the rider feel comfortable on the machine. Examples include shift and brake lever position, seat height, handlebar position, and foot peg location. Front geometry variables include: Ground Trail - Ground trail is a measured or calculated distance used to compare the distance of the steering stem axis (extended to the ground) to the center of the contact patch. Rake Angle - Rake angle defines the angle between the steering stem axis and vertical plane. Contact Patch - The contact patch is the portion of the tire that is in contact with the ground. Triple Clamp Offset - Triple clamp offset defines the center point distance between the fork tube axis and steering stem axis. Axle Offset - Axle offset defines the center point distance between the axle and fork tube axis. Total Offset - Total offset accounts for both the axle and triple clamp offset. Front Wheel Diameter - The measured diameter of the wheel. Most of the parameters discussed here all influence ground trail, which is a key variable used to assess the bike’s stability. Rear geometry variables: Swingarm Angle - The swingarms angle relative to the horizontal or ground plane. Contact Patch - The contact patch is the portion of the tire that is in contact with the ground. Front and Rear Sprocket Diameter - The sprocket’s pitch diameter. Rear Wheel Diameter - The measured diameter of the wheel. The rear end variables outlined here are not particularly important when considered on their own but have a significant influence on a critical handling concept called “Anti-Squat.” Anti-squat is used to characterize the effects the swingarm angle, and chain force has on the rear suspension. Anti-squat will be explored in further detail in a future post. When it comes to suspension, numerous adjustments can be made to influence the bike’s response. These include: Fork and Shock Preload - Fork and shock preload quantifies how much the fork or shock springs have been compressed upon installation. Preload adjustments predominantly affect the ride height of the bike. Fork and Shock Compression Damping Adjustments - Compression damping adjustments alter the suspension system’s response to events that compress the suspension. Fork and Shock Rebound Damping Adjustments - Rebound damping adjustments alter the suspension system’s response to events that extend the suspension. Fork and Shock Compression Damping Selection - Significant alterations to the way the forks and shock respond to compression events can be made by swapping out dampers or modifying existing dampers. Fork and Shock Rebound Damping Selection - Significant alterations to the way the forks and shock respond to extension events can be made by swapping out dampers or modifying existing dampers. Fork and Shock Spring Selection - Fork and shock springs are selected based on their spring rate. Different applications and riders require different spring rates to optimize the suspension system. Fork Oil Level - The volume of air found within a fork acts as an air fork. The air volume can be increased or decreased by adjusting the amount of fork oil used. Fork and Shock Oil Viscosity - Viscosity is a measure of an oil’s resistance to flow. Changes to oil viscosity in the suspension system will affect how the damping system responds. Front and Rear Tire Pressure - Tire pressure settings influence traction and also the overall response of the suspension system since tires also act as air springs. Shock Linkage Ratio - If the bike is equipped with a linkage that connects the shock and swingarm the geometry of the linkage can be manipulated to alter the shock's response. I hope this overview of all the different variables that can be manipulated to improve the handling of your machine has you excited for what’s to come! Making a dirt bike or motorcycle handle well can mean the difference between a podium finish and a mid-pack finish when racing. It can also make or break the riding experience when out on the track and trail. The number of variables that can be altered can seem overwhelming, but in future posts, I’ll walk you through a systematic approach to make the job less daunting. If you want to stay up to date on the latest tips and info I have available regarding dirt bike handling and suspension I want to invite you to sign up for my email newsletter on the subject. Click here to sign up and I’ll keep you in the loop! - Paul DIY Moto Fix
  22. 22 points
    Hi Guys and gals, this is my first post to this forum after being a guest reader for years! I`m from Norway so you will have to excuse my English Picked up a 2013 Beta 300 RR in October. The bike had at least 300 hours to it (Speedo broken) First up a lot of cleaning layer by layer... Most of the bikes parts were past its lifetime, so the junkyard got some nice "gifts" from me.. Then time to start the "restoration" The frame was badly dented at the bottom and took a lot of work to be straight again Got the thing sandblasted and painted (Lucky to have the possibility to do it at work) Started the engine build, hoping it would do with just a new oversize piston.. But it needed.....everything! New cylinder and piston, new bearings and piston shaft +++ Checked out tolerance on the gearbox, everything was within specs fortunately! Also blasted the cases as they were not nice Was a lot of work, but I think it turned out great Next up was the swing arm. Gave it some sanding and new paint. Changed all the bearings and spacers. The wheels needed some truing and new bearings. Also added a S3 parts wheels sticker kit to make them look a little fresher Some pictures from the rebuild: Finished result: Quite happy with the result myself! Now just waiting for some parts to rebuild the Rekluse clutch, and I will be out thrashing it again Will also probably rebuild the rear damper in the near future, and add a carbon shield to the exhaust Upgrades from stock: IMS fuel tank Rekluse Exp 3.0 Core Tubliss 2 S3 parts wheelstickers, pegs and handlebar Polisport swing arm protectors Pro Circut muffler Blackbird seat cover Simplified wiring harness Led Head light Factory 2014 decals Kyb front fork (Was lucky to find a very low mileage from a Husky TE 449 2013) Brembo caliper front Sorry for the long post!!!
  23. 22 points
    Anybody that has done any suspension revalving knows you wind up with left over shims if you’re going from a motocross setup to an off-road setup. I think I’ve done 8 bikes so far and make small changes to mine every now and then. Anyway I had shims tossed in a bag and it got to be a pain finding what I had vs. what I needed to order each time. I ordered some cheap organizers and brought everything to the house to sort while I watched TV. Right after I started my wife asked what I was doing. After a quick explanation she said “I can do that for you tomorrow”. I’ll admit I was skeptical but told her what I wanted then gave her a basic lesson on reading a caliper and micrometer. First day she wasn’t happy with how she initially set it up but after she got rolling this is what she did. Married almost 21 years and she continues to surprise me. She’s a keeper for sure! Clay
  24. 22 points
    pour it into your car/truck/van's gas tank. Buy new gas for your bike.
  25. 21 points
    Want to introduce myself and my new TT500. A long time friend passed custodianship of his purchased new 1977 TT500 to me. We have been friends since it was new and I have drooled over it for literally decades. As he is no longer able to ride I have become custodian for the next decade or two. I rode it for the first time today and had a blast. I can’t stop grinning. It is nothing like my everyday ride, a 2019 Indian FTR, but so much fun. I enjoy both the bike and the history of it while ridden by my friend. It was ridden in the 1978 Colorado 500 with a group of the Indy 500 greats (he did the aerodynamics for Dan Gurneys Indy 500 winning car) and I have the white livery it wore them as well as the original orange livery it wears now. I look forward to many years of fun with it and the help of other TT500 owners Greg
  26. 21 points
    Another fork tube wear victim here, mild anodizing loss on both tubes. I am out of warranty, and contacted the dealer I bought the bike from. New tubes coming, compliments of Beta USA. Tim Pilg and CO are some real stand up folks.
  27. 21 points
    That is a graded dirt ROAD. Its a road, everyone needs to stay on their side and drive like they are on a ROAD.
  28. 21 points
    Another one off the list before i kick it. 7,700 kms up through North western BC into the Yukon territories Canada. As far north as the Arctic circle, about 500 kms or so from the Arctic ocean. The trip was all i expected and more, beautiful scenery, great mountain passes, vast untouched wilderness, lots of wild animals, long boring stretches of road and nasty weather. And i enjoyed it all, even after running out of songs to sing in my helmut and losing too many times to myself playing "rock, paper, scissors". The "and more" was the huge number of people i met from all around the world, with a wide variety of vehicles traveling to the arctic. A small sample of some that i met. This couple from France, drove this "thing" from the tip of South America and were almost at their goal of the Arctic ocean when i met them at the Arctic circle. These two guys and one Brazilian beauty, all from different country's in South America, randomly met on the way up, were now traveling together. Then on the Dempster hwy met a Mexican guy who joined their possy. Guy from Germany driving his Mercedes 4x4 camper around the world. Texas couple in their Vanagon have been places. Swen is going places. There was a Japanese fella on a loaded up XT250 doing the "America's" and pair big BMW's with New Zealand plates on them. I loved the diversity and talking with all different people, like the prospector who had been working a claim near Dawson City for 40 years in the summer, would travel home to NYC and spend the winters in Arizona, doing a big triangle every year. The highlight of the trip was Dawson City, a gold mining town from the late 1800's that's been restored as is was, with dirt streets, wood sidewalks, gambling/show halls, houses of ill repute and higher worship. And the Dempster hwy which goes from Dawson City to the Arctic ocean and Tuktiuctuk. My only adversity, if you could call it that, was a very sore neck, that made rest for a day in a little town in northern BC. But even that turned into a blessing as i discovered the coolest museum next to the campground i was in. Being a motorhead myself, i was in my glory. And of course, i always enjoy getting back to the lake for the summer with family. Again the DRZ was the star of the ride, as comfortable and reliable as ever. I thought as i passed the hundreds of big adventure bikes going up and coming down, mostly big BMW's, KTM's and African twins, am i missing something here?
  29. 21 points
    As few may know, as a racer I was fortunate to make it to a AA/Pro status later on in my riding life at 35yrs of age. But...as a rider, I am down right terrible. To be a podium guy at this level took alot of sheer determination, inflated confidence, durability, brute strength, and incredible fitness. To many, they would think my bike skills/technique are great, but sadly that isn't so. I find the more I work on my actual bike skills/technique, the more I see how terrible they are. As of late I've really been trying to work on even the most basic skills, honing them to become more seamless from obstacle to obstacle and it's been as rewarding as any podium I have ever gotten. I am truly humbled by this... For those still reading, spend the time on working on your skills/technique and you'll really see a massive improvement on your riding in all areas...
  30. 20 points
    We did a short/fast ride from Jackman, ME to the Canadian border this morning. During the ride my brand new Garmin Inreach slipped out of its clip-in that was attached to a Camelback. I didn't notice it was missing until we returned to Jackman. I quickly rode home and logged into my Inreach account. I was able to find its last reported location and I went back out to look for it. However, I couldn't find it. While driving home my wife sent me a text that she received a message from my Inreach from a guy that found it on the trail. She replied back with my number. I drove home and checked its location again. It pinged at one of our local restaurants. The guy and his wife stopped there and was waiting to hear from us again (there's about a 30 minute delay with some texts). I called the restaurant and they let me talk to the guy. I met up with them a few minutes later and retrieved my Inreach. I offered to buy their lunch, or at least buy them a round of drinks, but they declined. Funny thing about the whole thing......I ran into these people on the trail while riding back to Jackman. They were stopped so I slow rolled past them and asked if they were okay. They were stopped because that was where he found it. When I met up with them in town, he said he was sending a message to my wife from the the Inreach when I checked on them while on the trail......KARMA!
  31. 19 points
    So, my middle son chose for his senior project to rebuild a 2007 Honda CRF150RB. It was given to us from a friend. The crank and piston had come apart, taking out one of the cases. Half the bike was in a box. He rebuilt the whole bike, engine, suspension, everything. He cerakoted the frame and several other parts. He also entered into Cameron Niemela's PrymeMX dirtbike restoration contest and made the top 20! If you would like to vote for him, you can go to https://www.prymemx.com/pages/teampryme. He's down at the bottom, Wyatt Frost. Regardless how it turns out, I'm proud of the boy. Oh, and his bike is the only four stroke in the top 20!
  32. 19 points
    Did something I thought I would never do yesterday. Sold my 2013 Beta 250rr. It was the first BYOB 250 in the U.S. I loved that bike it was a revelation at the time and the lightest, lowest, real electric start race bike available. I purchased it after actually emailing back and forth with the owner in Italy. My mother had passed at the end of 2010 and was a world renowned art historian specializing in the renaissance and Florence and the Plazzo Vechio. Beta being built just outside of Florence and hearing his passion for the brand and the art was a cool coincidence. My byob plate didnt say my name it arrived with "in memorial della madre" In memory of mother. It was tough as nails and still had the original unbendable handlebars. But I have grown older and I love my 2019 200 and now that I have a a second, I could not justify keeping her. I completely rebuild her and she was better than new. I was happy to see the youth and enthusiasm of the new owner. It was great to watch him test ride it in the alley and watch the wheel come off the ground as he shifted into 2nd gear and then his friend as well. I wish you well my old friend and hope she brings the new caretaker all the success she brought me. Good bye dear lady.
  33. 19 points
    Well all decent threads deserve a conclusion and good death... So wife calls me... she was speaking to a customer in her store from the Yucca Valley area that's supposedly a Dog Trainer... or was... and he fell in love with the photo of the German Shepherd... she explained that I want these two to stay together and he was very interested in both. But I was curious if he was such a dog lover why he didn't have any... then she tells me he said he thought 6 weeks was a good time to test compatibility with him... so I'd need to be open to taking them back in the event... blah blah blah. I said look, I ain't &%$#@!ing Walmart and even they wouldn't give him 6 weeks on perishables. Obviously, I dont want to let them go at this point. So Lexxie and Ty are officially staying forever. The END !
  34. 19 points
  35. 19 points
    Dude, I offered to send you a modded head to try, and even a STIC carb, to use as long as you want. You can go on rocky mountain and get every single oem part delivered to your door in 3 days. Shit, they even sell the sx head there. Why would you bother with Blais when you can get those parts easily yourself? It seems like you love doing everything the hard way lol
  36. 19 points
  37. 19 points
    Is 8 years old on black diamond singletrack too old? Because this kid RIPS on a KTM 50. Photo taken yesterday
  38. 18 points
    And nobody recommended the PROPER way to install wheel bearings.Put the bearings in the deapfreacer overnight ,then heat the hub with a hairdryer or torch and the beerings fall into the hub all by itself.
  39. 18 points
    I'd hurry up and buy a new 450 while you're still young and know everything!
  40. 18 points
    My son and I drove down to Johnson Valley (JV) to meet up with my dad and do some riding between Christmas and New Years. Before leaving I had arranged with @Jeff aka Bolt to buy a new Fatty front tire on my way down and save shipping cost. The plan was to stop by his house about 3-4pm but the weather had other plans. It took 21 hours for us to get from Rocklin to JV due to the Grapevine and Tehachipi being closed. This included burying my truck up to the axle about two miles from our camp. This was a navigation error on my son's part and me not verifying which dirt road to turn down for Soggy Lake. Nothing more fun than digging your truck out at midnight wearing tennis shoes by cell phone light. Learned some valuable lessons on this one. The next morning we woke up to lots of snow and mud and I knew my Mountain Hybrid tire would be next to useless so I asked Jeff to add two more rear tires to my order. Jeff was super cool and met us in town which saved us about 20-30 minutes and let us pick from a couple different tires he brought. I picked an M5B which I have never ran and my son picked a VE-33 which I have ran. Turns out both of these tires were a bitch to change in the cold weather but they both performed very well in the mud, snow and sand. While changing my son's tire I noticed the fixed aluminum end of his axle was cracked. I texted Jeff a photo and asked if he had one. I fully expected him to say he could order it and get it two days later. He went out to one of his bikes and pulled the axle out and offered it for his replacement cost. This was incredibly generous and saved a ride for my son although the broken one held for a day of riding close to camp but we didn't trust it. The last day we decided to take a run up to Pisdah Crater. About mile 28 of a 36 miles run out to the crater, my dad's Yamaha SxS shifter shaft breaks off flush with the case. We tried to manually shift it into second gear to limp it home but that flush break made it impossible. Fortunately the gearbox was in neutral when it broke allowing us to tow it back with another SxS in our group. Jeff - Nice to finally meet you in person and thanks for offering local support for our trip.
  41. 18 points
    Bro your chain guide is non existent. There should be plastic in the rear chain guide that the chain slides on, not the freaking aluminum!
  42. 18 points
  43. 18 points
    Bill would cap ethanol in nation's fuel supply Tell your representative to support H.R. 2540 today H.R. 2540, the bipartisan Food and Fuel Consumer Protection Act of 2019, introduced by U.S. Reps. Bill Flores (R-TX) and Peter Welch (D-VT), would cap the volume of ethanol blended into the nation's fuel supply at 9.7 percent of the total volume of gasoline. The American Motorcyclist Association supports this bill and other efforts to reform the Renewable Fuel Standard. This bill would stop the federal government from forcing E15 fuel (15 percent ethanol by volume) into the market. Capping the ethanol mandate helps ensure the availability of safe fuels, such as E10, and a continuing place in the market for ethanol-free gasoline (E0) for older motorcycles. The AMA, along with other partners on Capitol Hill dedicated to protecting consumers adversely affected by E15, is working to generate more support for this bill and others at a time when E15 is set to become more available throughout the country, thanks to rule changes by the Environmental Protection Agency that allow its sale year round. None of the estimated 22 million motorcycles and all-terrain vehicles in use in the United States is certified by the EPA to operate on fuel containing more than 10 percent ethanol. Inadvertent use of E15 in vehicles not designed for its use can damage fuel system and engine components and void manufacturer's warranties. Tell your representative to support H.R. 2540 by sending a prewritten message by clicking the "Take Action" button.
  44. 18 points
  45. 18 points
    I can't really believe this question was asked. I guess no one rode in the woods until dirt bikes started coming with e start. Good grief, learn to ride and learn to use the clutch and you won't have to start it every 30 seconds. I'm not trying to be a dick, but c'mon.
  46. 18 points
    Beta is proud to launch the 2020 RR and RR-S models. These models are all new and represents a new generation for the RR and RR-S range. The 2020 range includes 8 different engine sizes: four 2-stroke (RR 125/200/250/300 cc) and four 4-stroke (RR-S 350/390/430/500 cc) engines that offer Beta customers an extremely wide selection of bikes to take on their next adventure. Beta owns the phrase Rideability and the 2020 models continue this off-road experience with a slim, lightweight bike that is safe, reliable, and easy to ride while creating a riding experience like no other manufacturer can provide. Major advances have been made by the Beta team of engineers these past twelve months including introducing a completely new engine design to the 4-stroke range, added smoothness to the 2 stroke engine, and an all new frame that boasts completely redesigned geometry and rigidity. The popular 200 RR Model returns as well for 2020. Besides the all-new engines and frames, the sub-frame, tail section, seat, fuel tank, bodywork, and many other details are also all new coming together to provide the best looking and most friendly cockpit layout on the market. Also new for 2020 is the ability for customers to order any RR or RR-S model straight from the factory with a 2" lower seat height over the stock models. These "lowboy" models have parts installed inside the front fork and rear shock to lower the seat height. Beta USA's popular BYOB (Build Your Own Beta) program will continue for 2020. This program allows riders to custom build his or her new Beta to fit their special needs by allowing the addition of more than 400 accessories to their bike. New features include: Engine 4-stroke RR-S (350/390/430/500 cc): A complete redesign, with the aim of reducing the weight and bulk of moving parts, achieved by raising the clutch and moving the crankshaft back. Moving the center of gravity closer to the swingarm pivot makes for significantly better handling. An overall weight reduction of 2.2 lbs. A redesigned magnesium clutch cover, redeveloped to improve the oil flow into the clutch assembly more efficiently. Magnesium flywheel cover, redesignedin-line with the rest of the engine, now with a more functional and modern look. New water pump system that improves flow-rate and therefore the efficiency of the cooling system's ability to transfer heat, keeping average temperatures lower, improving performance, and providing a more simplified cooling hose system. Cylinder and head redesigned matched with the updated cooling system to lower engine temperatures. Twin Injectors improve performance and increase fuel mileage. Oil circuit redesigned to provide better heat transfer between oil and water in the front section of the crankcase in order to keep the oil temperature lower. Clutch with redesigned discs in a new material to ensure smoother and more modular gear shifting. Redesigned gearing, now shorter and lighter. New gearshift mechanism with lighter cam to improve shifting. Gearshift lever redesigned in line with the new engine and frame layout. Addition of a neutral sensor. Updated EFI mapping. 2020 Beta RR-S (Street Legal Off Road) 2-stroke (250/300 cc): Now with a counter-balancer to reduce vibration by increasing inertia and improving the power delivery curve. The counter-balancer improves the power delivery throughout the rpm range. Cylinder head redesigned (250 cc only) to improve torque at low rpm. 2020 300 RR 2 Stroke 250/300 RR Counter Balancer 2020 200 RR 2020 125 RR 2-stroke (125 cc): New cylinder with modified exhaust port and diameters. New exhaust flange. New exhaust valve system and new boosters. New clutch cover with airpurging system operated by the modified clutch mechanism; modified oil inlet cap position to improve oil change time. New exhaust valve drive, opens at a different rate to improve power delivery. New expansion chamber provides broader power delivery. These modifications to the 125 RR (derived straight from the 2019 Racing model) provide added torque at low rpm while greater power at the high revs, for increased performance across the entire power curve while at the same time, provides a bike that is easier to ride. Chassis: (All RR and RR-S Models) All-New frame with redesigned geometry and rigidity for increased agility and stability. Weight is reduced and reliability boosted with the use of precision-cast components, while comfort is improved and vibration reduced thanks to new head bolts. The frame is also narrower at the base which improves handling over difficult sections and typical off-road tracks. Modified swingarm, now longer for the 4-stroke range and the 200 cc 2-stroke model, for better stability and traction. Completely redesigned tailpiece, greater strength to reduce breakage during off road riding, all filter box components and related accessories are now housed inside it (electrical components and oil reservoir for 2-strokes). New air filter boot. Air Filter mounting system, providing quicker and more accurate installation. Improved fork design compared to previous version, with new inner cartridge to lower the center of gravity providing the perfect level of plushness while also improving the action of square-edge impacts. Internal valving has been updated to work in-line with the new frame design. New rear shock absorber with: New top-out system, now a spring to improve grip and contact with the ground during hard braking. New longer shock bumper with more progressive compression. This ensures good protection of the buffer and improves bottoming resistance. New valving, to work in-line with the new frame. Cooling system with water hoses placed inside the frame and more efficient radiators.This improves heat transfer and allows engines to operate at lower temperatures even in the most extreme conditions. Larger capacity fuel tanks, of 2.4 US gallons for 4-strokes and 2.55 US gallons for 2-strokes. Besides providing greater range, the new fuel tanks improve ergonomics and ease-of-movement in the seat. Wider handlebars for greater control. Exhaust with new layout in line with the bike's new rear section. Side stand with bigger foot pad. New precision-cast footpegs that are better at shedding mud and teeth to increase boot grip. New chain guide, longer to suit new swingarm. New brake pedal, more robust and with larger bearings. Shorter 430/480 cc gearing compared to previous models. Design Completely new superstructure (front cowl, front and rear fenders, ducts and fairings) that improves ergonomics and the operation of all related parts retaining the Italian design Beta is known for. Front fender with variable thickness geometry which reduces weight and increases rigidity. New tailpiece in techno-polymer. New tailpiece attachments in techno-polymer. New handlebar protector. Redesigned seat, more comfortable when moving about on the bike. New license plate bracket, lighter and with integrated handles. New silencer protector (excluding 125 cc). New digital instruments and instrument panel. New location for MAP switch Redesigned skid plate. New rear light and license plate bracket with integrated grab handles. New frame protectors. MAP Switch New Footpegs, Frame Guards, and Rear Brake Pedal Voyager GPS is standard on all 2020 RR-S Models. Prices: 125 RR: $7999.00 200 RR $8699.00 250 RR $8799.00 300 RR $9199.00 350 RR-S $10,599.00 390 RR-S $10,699.00 430 RR-S $10,799.00 500 RR-S $10,899.00 *prices do not include sales tax, license, destination or other dealer fees. Available: RR 2 Stroke Models September RR-S 4 Stroke Models November In addition to the exciting new 2020 model announcement, Beta USA is proud to show off their new website! Found at www.betausa.com riders can now purchase their new Beta three ways, Stock unit, Stock + Upgraded Suspension, or the ever-popular BYOB.
  47. 18 points
    Let me first say, I have enjoyed your enthusiasm for the sport and there's no doubt you have a passion for riding. I cannot attest to your character as I do not know you personally, and internet personalities are not a good judge of who someone truly is in person. So, I say this only as a long time NW rider who is also passionate about riding, and working to save and grow our sport. Nothing leading up to, or the intentions of the hikers, justifies this act. You let someone get the best of you because you couldn't be the better man. That's extremely unfortunate as actions like this do absolutely nothing, but feed the other side who would love nothing but to close trails to moto, and your act is now ammunition used against our entire community. Sorry buddy, I find this a selfish act that goes against the hard fought efforts of those before you that gave of their time, energy and efforts to keep trails open. By now making this video public domain, it can be weaponized against us. You may feel justified in your actions as you have posted so, but it is simply an act of someone demonstrating lack of self control. Instead of taking an opportunity to rise above and represent our community with dignity, you showed the other side exactly what they have built up in their minds as the typical dirt bike rider. There's no excuses that can justify respresenting the sport in such a poor light.. Very unfortunate and sad and I hope you would be willing to take the video down.
  48. 18 points
    Vrooom with a view... near Boise, ID.
  49. 17 points
    Hey, everyone...Greetings from Windy SoCal... A recent trip to The Husky Monument renewed my hope and faith in humans. 2 weeks later, today, i bought a 1982 XR500R. Growing up, Mom, Dad and i rode bikes every Saturday, just to see how far we could go from dawn to dusk. Dad had a 305cc Scrambler, Mom a 350-4 and me on a 1969 SL90. Dad's 83 and still has a mid 80's Honda 400 twin. I quickly graduated to MX racing on 250 and 350 Bultacos. I later stepped up to AMA flat track on a Bultaco Astro and later, a home-built Yamaha OW72. I was a very OCD/ODD/ADHD kid, and i obsessed over things and rode like a maniac, sometimes wearing a Mexican wrestler's mask (I'm Elmer's Glue white and my Mom's name is Juanita) under my lid, so i got named 'El Extremo.' In 1989 when i was 24, a friend was nearly killed on a BSA 650 in a crash near Strathmore, California. My folks freaked out...i kinda freaked out...and my music career was pulling me in a different direction, so i sold out and moved on. I'm currently working as a full time guitarist and one of my drummer pals invited me on an excursion to Atolia, California recently. Our purpose was to scout a location for a video shoot. We got to talking bikes and my history, so he says, "You gotta see the Husky Memorial. " It's after dark and we are in his 2020 Rubicon LWB, winding our way to the monument. When i got there, i was stunned. No theft. No trash. No vandalism....all i could think of is "Man, these are my kinda people." I told my guitarist friend about the trip and expressed how i wanted a bike. He said, "Dude...i used to race MX. Let me give you all my gear, armor, gloves, pants, jersey, boots, everything, so you can get started again!" I started lookin at bikes and knew i didnt want EFI and all that. I wanted something tough, easy to get parts for and easy to fix. I also wanted something cool from my era, with a magneto and no trick CDI boxes. I found a 1982 XR500R in Hesperis and it was clean. Asking price was $1,500 with current 2020 green decal. It started and ran good, so i offered the dude $1,000 cash and rode it 67 miles across the open desert, up and around Hill 582, through Cajon Canyon, Blue Cut and Devil's Canyon to get home. It never missed a beat. It was scary 'A-F' and exhilarating at the same time. A mutual friend came over and started pointing out the Supertrapp, Single 40mm Mikuni and sticker from "XR's Only." I rang up and described the bike. It's alleged to be either a 540 or 560cc with 'EdCo' modded head, Web 'Torqer' Cam, and a "Billet Basket," which i am assuming is clutch related. The bike starts on the first 1/4 kick and idles good. It feels a little to high-geared (long-legged) for my low speed, crawly/climby style, so i will probably gear it down lower, even if top speed suffers. The right side cover is cracked from a rock strike, the kickstand flange is bent, the skidplate is broke and the chain is worn quite a bit. It also has crappy fuel lines which I'm gonna soon replace. I did all my own work, so no sweat... TBTH, I'm stoked, Man. So, just reaching out to say 'Wazzup' and introduce myself. I got lotsa questions. Here's the first pic, shot today near Devil's Canyon. Peace...
  50. 17 points
    Waivers help. Good, moral people are better. I was out with family recently, on a five day eating and wine tasting vacation. At the end of the day, I got clumsy and fell. Hard. So hard everyone in the vineyard heard me hit the deck. All came running with horrified looks on their faces. The owner and manager came over. Telling me they will pay what ever it costs. What kind of a society have we created where other people assume responsibility for a drunk old guy being a klutz? No way would I ask them to even pay a $40 co-pay. All my fault. It was nice the gave me a replacement glass of wine and a fresh baguette. I assume all risk for any actions I undertake when I wake each day. You hurt me from being irresponsible, your ass is mine. You hurt me due to a true accident (we lock bars in a corner) and no foul. You crash at a friends, you tell the insurance company you fell at home.
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