dakynz

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About dakynz

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    New Mexico
  • Interests
    motorcycles, 4 wheelers, all sports
  1. It would start but took 10-20 kicks and Once running it would idle down and flame out. See beginning of post for more on the original symptoms
  2. It was the valve. Shimmed, kicked and purred like a kitten
  3. ok, so i went back in and the left intake valve is now .004 so its outside of spec (.006 +/- .001). I also check the carb over again and pulled the fuel screw. O-ring looks good and cleaned it up and put it back in. Going to put the head back on today to see if the reshimming of the valve gets it to fire right up. fingers crossed.
  4. So I replaced the hot start attachment. Disassembled the carb, blew out all the passages with compressed air, cleaned the jets, disassembled the ap, Replaced the spark plug. Checked fuel screw 2 turns out. Same issue. Kick and kick and bike won't turn over. Pull choke and kick while giving throttle and finally will turn over. Idles up high, push choke in and as idle slows bike dies. Kick and kick. Repeat process. I'm at a loss. Will go back in and check the timing again. The valves/head were done by crfsonly.com. New piston/rings I did. Not my first rebuild but bike was having this exact issue before the rebuild and we summed it up to valves closing up. Now they are sorted and still same symptoms. I'm at a loss
  5. when you say fixed hot start was this only fixing the connection or was there more that you did?
  6. A little background. Bike began to have a hard time starting. Checked the valves and sure enough they had closed up. Reshims and a few weeks later closed up again. So went ahead and put a new piston, valves, shims etc in. Shimmed and everything within spec. Engine test fired ok but took multiple kicks. Once started engine sounds good but hanging idle and when it does die out the bike is hard to start. Here's the issue - now it appears that all the valve work was for not because the bike now is having issues starting, very similar to when the valves closed up. It will fire but has a hanging idle and generally will die once the idle is tuned down. Once it dies, the bike is very difficult to kick over without giving it a 1/4 twist of throttle. I suspect the carb but opened the bowl up today and both the pilot and main jets are clean. The carb was also off the bike while we did the piston/valve work and it was for the most part cleaned. My next guess is potentially the floats in the bowl need to be checked but haven't done that yet? Any thoughts or suggestions? One side note is the hot start plastic threads stripped out at the connection to the carb, so have a replacement on order.
  7. also having the same issue and bought the race tech tool. However, saw on another forum that someone recommended taking a penny and cutting it in half. After using the race tech tool (doesn't work so well if you have quick bleeders) the penny cut in half may be the trick.
  8. After riding the KTM 300 for 9 months decided it was time to move on. Traded the bike in for a YZ450f. Quick summary of reasons: 1. For me to ride the bike fast I had to be aggressive. At aggressive pace I could ride at the pace of a 450 but wore me out quicker. But ultimately the aggressive riding meant more crashes and a lack of confidence in the bike and me. 2. Nervous front end on the 300. This was helped by raising the forks in the triple clamps but seemed like I was fighting with the front end. A steering dampener definitely would have helped. 3. Front forks were very harsh (especially compared to the yz) After 2 test rides on the new 450 it obvious my riding style suits the 450 better but to each his own. I can carry more speed through the same terrain but without using as much energy. I definitely believe the 300 is an awesome bike to ride and definitely helped me to carry more speed into the corners. I'm also glad that I did experience the 300.
  9. on my 2016 xc my front exhaust bolt back out at the bottom of the header... something to check Also, after adjusting jetting still didn't have what I was looking for. But changed to the red power valve spring and helped out.
  10. I recently made the jump from 450 to 300 XC. Exclusively 4 stroke since growing up. Decided to try something new and picked up a 2016 ktm 300. (last bike was a 2011 crf450r) Biggest difference I've noticed in the first 3 weeks on the 300 XC. Positives: Feels light, rides even lighter. Clutch - who needs a recluse on the 300. This thing is pretty hard to stall (had a recluse on my last 450 and it definitely needed it) Idles down low, hard on the brakes and if you do stall it bump starts very easy. Quick turning, easy to cut down on a line wide power band - can be lugged or rung out. Very different power delivery but combined with the light weight of the bike it really can be a very fast bike. Doesn't rev out like a 450 but the power builds very nicely as the rpms go up. Great on firm, rocky, hills, technical. e-start (nice to have both options); Starts easy once warm suspension - tracks great through fast hard whoops (way better then my 2011 CRF450. That bike took multiple adjustments to keep the back in behind the bike instead of dancing around) the 300 tracks straight and runs right on the top of the whoops General comments: The 300 turns quicker but almost darts around while the 450 plows. In deep sand with faster speed I prefer the 450 feeling at this moment as it just seems like more work on the 300. In slower sand turns the 300 can take any line and easier to dart down. No engine braking, but also seems to lock the rear tire up must easier than a 450. I'm having to change my riding style to adapt. 300 stands up in turns. Already has resulted in one high side. I think its due to the light weight of the bike. I'm adjusting but its almost the opposite of the 450. 450 would want to wash out, the 300 wants to stand up. (applies only to deep sand riding) Suspension/engine - doesn't seem to like high speed sand whoops. 450 is the bike here. 300 may need some suspension adjustments and it will get better but blows through the stroke (trying stiffer settings now) and the engine is more work to keep the power in the right range. Doesn't feel great in deep sand; bike seems to dart around rather than tracking its line. Stands up at times. Jetting isn't spot on yet - i've followed factory settings but still having issues with it not running great between 0-1/4 throttle. Bike lights up at 1/4 throttle but rough idles below. I've try leaning the clip position on the needle and has helped. Also, bike definitely needs the choke to start and even then it takes a bit before its running clean. (might just be a 2 stroke thing) Do miss the simplicity of the fuel injection. Do like tinkering and pretty good with jetting but haven't got this dial yet. Also haven't followed the factory setting and running 50:1 ratio instead of the book 60:1 (we run 91 octane fuel) Overall, I'm only 3 weeks in and do really enjoy this bike. The only time I wonder if it was the right decision is I ride in deep sand. Not so much of a regret but know i need to get some adjustments done to perform better while also adjusting my riding style. Love the bike in technical and firm and fast. Bike is growing on me and my first ktm.
  11. i ride in New Mexico and when I first got my 2011 was having boiling issues both with gas and with radiator fluid. First i put on a heat shield for the gas tank and that helped with the boiling gas. The bike continued to boil radiator fluid even after switching to engine ice. Ended up buying oversized radiator off of ebay and adding a small catch can behind the front number plate. Also added a 1.6 bar radiator cap. Bike will boil over into the catch can occassionally but radiator pulls the fluid back in after it cools. Rarely add fluid anymore but bike definitely runs hot compared to 2 other hondas i have. Have a 2008 and never had to do any of this stuff. Heard the 2013 is going to even smaller radiators so expect this to be worse in the future.
  12. bump...anybody?
  13. acl tear and replacement here. Took about 6 months to be back 75%. Worn a full knee brace unti 9 months. After 9 months never worn a knee brace again. Been 12 years and knee now is considered my good knee. PT is tough. Expect the 1st day to be the worst and then it gets better. Don't skip on PT, it will be the deciding factor on your knee. Also, work hard on range of motion both ways. Good luck.
  14. I am also curious regarding this. I have replaced the clutch cable (after the first cable broke) and installed a rekluse core exp 2.0. I thought the clutch got better until I got on another buddy's 2011 and his clutch pull is very easy to pull compared to mine. I have 3 honda's and my 2011 is easily twice as hard to engage the clutch. Feel is ok, but the pull is very hard. Help!? I'm getting to the point where I think I may have gotten a lemon and feel like selling the bike. Rode my brother 2008 last night and swear I'm fast on it then my 2011.
  15. I also have the 2011 with a very hard clutch pull. This past weekend clutch cable snapped about 4" from the engine block. Never snapped a clutch cable before. Going with a motion pro replacement. Definitely believe there are issues with the oem setup