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jonnyq

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About jonnyq

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    TT Newbie

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    Nebraska
  1. jonnyq

    What is your Favorite Vintage bike?

    Honda XR75. '73 or '74. Had a '73 as a kid and it was the best bike ever. I've got two XR's being restored now. I've got my kid hooked on 'em, too.
  2. jonnyq

    Honda valve guides

    I'm replacing an intake valve and guide on a '79 ATC110. I can't determine what size the new guide should be reamed to. Should the new guide be reamed to a few thousandths over the diameter of the valve stem? Less than that?
  3. jonnyq

    Honda ATC 110 Question

    Last weekend, I scored a treasure trove of ATC90s and a 110. The other night, I decided to drain the oil on the 110. I pulled the drain plug and drained the crankcase. Stupid question: there's another drain plug on the pull-start side of the case that comes off at an angle. Is this just for oil on the clutch side? Does it use oil from the crankcase, like with the other horizontal Honda engines? I don't have a Clymer manual yet, so I'm a little in the dark with these motors. Thanks
  4. Last weekend, I scored a decent '77 DT125 from a friend. Got it home and pulled the top end. The cylinder appears to be in very good shape, although the piston was a wreck. I suspect that someone put a used piston in it, because the marks/gouges in the piston don't match up with the cylinder in any way. I sent the top end with a machinist friend of mine to check the mounting surfaces, etc. One thing that was an issue when I got the bike is that the head gasket had high-heat red goo used on it, and I was told that the compression would drop and it'd make no power after about 10 minutes of riding. When the head was checked, my machinist friend called and said that the head was unlike anything he had ever seen. From what he found, the mounting surface of the head wasn't flat. A tiny edge around the combustion chamber was essentially flat, give or take a few thousandths, but the head spreads "out and up" from there. Is the head mounting surface supposed to be perfectly flat, or is this normal? Is the head trashed, or will a head gasket take out that slack? I've never actually seen anything like that myself, but it seems that as long as the edge of the combustion chamber is level, it should be fine. Can any of you Yamaha experts shed some light on this? Thanks.
  5. jonnyq

    How To Test A Coil

    You can use a cheap ohmmeter, hook the positive wire to the input to the coil and the negative to the spark plug wire end and tell if there's "flow" through the coil. That'll tell you if the coil has a problem. I've been through the same problems. Check this thread: http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=404506&highlight=xr75+electrical
  6. jonnyq

    Honda Paint Codes

    I tried Colorrite. Apparently, their colors only go back as far as 1977. They knew what I was talking about, but had never stocked that color. I stopped by the local body shop supply place and went through their PPG color samples. They've got hundreds of colors in various shades that are very close to the original color. I'm just going to use a single-stage medium gray metallic and go that route. Since this is going to be a "rider," rather than an exact resto, I don't think it matters all that much that its not perfect. I thought that with the restoration craze, finding original colors for a Honda would be a little easier than that, though.
  7. jonnyq

    How to Shorten forks??

    When using the CR80 forks, what upper and lower triple clamps should be used? I assume the CR forks' diameter is bigger. Does a stock XR stem have to be used, or will the whole triple clamp/bearing setup from the CR work? Thanks,
  8. jonnyq

    Honda Paint Codes

    Does anyone have an idea where to get paint codes for 1970s model Hondas? I am looking for "rubber grey metallic" for a 1974 XR75. There was only one source on the web (redracer.com), but another site said that redracer.com is no longer accepting orders, and as far as I knew, they were the only ones that carried that color in a spray can. I'd like to find that color in a spray can, but I'll have some mixed at the body shop supply place if I can get the right color info. Thanks.
  9. jonnyq

    frame painting

    If its going to remain a beater, I'd probably just hit it with some good-quality rustproofing paint. I checked on powdercoating during my recent XR restoration. We only have one place in our area that does it. They do great work and powdercoating is extremely durable, but it ain't cheap. I wanted to do a frame and swingarm in basic gloss black. They said that it would run around $200 to do it. I thought that was pretty steep, but that could be because they're the only place around that will do custom powdercoating. Another option would be to take it to a body shop and let them shoot the paint. If you've done all the grunt work and stripped the frame down, the price wouldn't be too outrageous. A body guy I talked to said he'd shoot the frame for $40 if I had everything prepped and he didn't have to sand, etc.
  10. jonnyq

    XR75 question

    I'd agree. You can't walk away from a deal like that. Like you, I had a '73 model as a kid, then "traded up" for several gut-ripper two stroke MX bikes over the years. Never did get over letting that first XR get away, so last year I decided to forget about the screaming MX bikes (my body doesn't heal quite like it used to anyway) and start finding and restoring old XRs. For my $.02, I think they're the most fun bike EVER built. I think you're right to look for an XR100 motor or something non-original if you're going to haul ass--at least for the time being. I'm restoring my '75 to as close to original as I can get, but my parts bike is going to be built to run like a scalded ape.
  11. jonnyq

    XR75 question

    As you can see, there are some issues with the older XR75's, although with the exception of the stator issue (which will be solved shortly thanks to some good advice from the TT folks), the parts aren't terribly difficult to find. The stator problem I'm dealing with is stupid more than anything else, and I think more qualified "electrical" mechs could have figured it out in about ten minutes--I think my issue with our local shop is pretty isolated. I'm on my third XR75, and I'd tell you that if you've got a reasonably complete '74 model, I'd do everything I could to keep the original motor in it. All of the '73-'76 XRs are becoming quite valuable (look to Ebay; they're going for primo $ if they're halfway decent). As far as rebuild parts go, I've had no trouble getting everything that I needed from RE-MX or Honda TrailBikes.com or other vintage parts suppliers. You may pay more for cosmetic parts and other model-specific things, but once you get up to speed on what realistic values are, you should do fine. Watch out for Ebayers that claim that their parts are very rare and expensive; most of them aren't, although you'll see people paying ridiculous prices for some parts for no reason. If you use the five speed motor, there are some minor cosmetic differences with the side covers etc. They will bolt in, but anyone who's dealt with a lot of XR's will see that difference right away, and I think it might really kill the value of the bike if you're ever looking to resell it. I don't know if that's your plan, but I'd keep that in mind. True, dealing with the five-speeds is slightly easier (e.g., ignition updates), but otherwise they're pretty much identical. I wanted to adapt the CDI to my bike, also. I've since learned that the CDI will only work on the '77 and later models due to minor differences in the crankshaft end. I don't know if some machine work would fix that or not. The rest of the things you'll likely be dealing with in restoring the bike should be very simple, and you'll end up with a great little bike that everyone will be impressed by. I'd definitely go original if at all possible.
  12. jonnyq

    Stator testing - ????

    I was hoping someone had the resistance figures for the stator on a 1975 XR75. I've got the bike back home after the charade at the Honda shop (see earlier post), and I've got a friend's multimeter/ohmmeter, so I was going to take a stab at it to see if the stator needs rewound or is just plain bad. Also, what wires should I hook up the ohhmeter to in order to get an accurate reading? How do I know what's "acceptable" and what isn't, in terms of resistance? Thanks.
  13. jonnyq

    XR75 mystery electrical problem- help!

    Got the bike back from the shop today. I had them take off the flywheel again before I took it back so that I could look for myself or show someone photos of the stator plate, flywheel, etc. Based on you guys' advice, I asked them if they had tested the stator, points continuity, coil, etc. They said that they had tested the coil with an "electrical tester" (I don't know if they mean an ohmmeter or what exactly), and it checked out fine. They also said that they checked the points for continuity a number of times, as well. I asked about the stator, and didn't get a clear answer on how they analyzed it. They said they checked all connections, etc., but that when a stator goes bad, there's really no way of confirming that. They also told me that all of the spacers and washers holding the points were in the correct order per Honda's manual. I may take some photos of the stator plate, etc. and pm them to someone if it might help to actually see the stator and flywheel (?). I'll check the advance springs, too, to see if anything's obviously wrong.
  14. jonnyq

    XR75 mystery electrical problem- help!

    I've decided to get the XR back from the Honda shop. They insist that the shop "must have" checked stator output, continuity, etc. They seemed a little peeved that I asked such a question. I'll attempt the fix myself. Does anyone have a copy of that manual that is mentioned? I can't seem to locate that particular one. My Clymer manual is good, but it makes it clear that it doesn't cover the '75 and earlier XR ignition repairs. Even if I could get just those pages on ignition troubleshooting, I'd be back in business (I hope).
  15. jonnyq

    XR75 mystery electrical problem- help!

    Wow--this is a lot of info, and I appreciate it all. A few questions: 1. If I go the CDI route, what brand should I go with? 2. Again, if I add the CDI, is it a simple change, and can the stock flywheel be used without modification? 3. If I dig into the advance spring problem, what am I looking for? How do I tell if the springs are shot if they're unbroken and appear otherwise normal? 4. Which Honda repair manual should I use if I check the wiring/stator/etc. myself? I've got the Clymer manual for that model, but I don't think it gets quite that deep into ignition issues (but I haven't referred to it in awhile, either)? My major problem at this point is cost. As it stands, I'm stuck with an ever-growing bill at Honda each time I ask them to tear into it again. I know the CDI may not be cheap, but if its a mod I can do myself, then it might be worth the investment. I'm just a little nervous because this bike started as a dirt-cheap project and its getting out of hand. Again, thanks for the help.
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