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Beezerboy

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About Beezerboy

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    TT Bronze Member

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    a19klr@yahoo.com

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    Male
  • Location
    Alaska
  • Interests
    hovercraft

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  1. Beezerboy

    Klr600 retarded timing

    there are ohm readings for the coil & also some voltage readings when it cranks. the manual should have those numbers. as for re-installing the rotor (flywheel).... I paint the end of the key yellow so I can see it after it's installed. put a couple punch marks on the side of the key to help it stay in the keyway better because as you have probably seen, its kinda loose in the groove. you are supposed to use a new bolt each time, but many have been re-used. up to you. the torque given in the book is too high for some bikes (130 ft lbs). the 600 and early 650s suffered rotor drag at top torque, so the back yard procedure (that works) is to torque in increments and test for indications of drag. you go until you start to drag, then back it off and re-torque to just below whatever that was. anything over 100 is good. I got that from the old (new defunct) Eldon Carl site which is now Top gun.
  2. Beezerboy

    new DR350 for me

    so, I've got a line on a DR350... a '96(?) SE. I've been trying to find out what they actually weigh for one thing. also what to look for when I go see it (400 miles away), what to ask about before I drive all the way out there too. I'm an aircraft mechanic & owned bikes for over 50 years (old guy) so pretty comfortable with the standard stuff... what are the quirky bits? also, I have a choice of tanks. stock or what the owner thinks is a Clark. I had a Clark on my DRZ & liked it pretty well but I'm picking up feelers that indicate its not the best. any opinions on that? thanks guys.
  3. Beezerboy

    Radial tires

    all the time.... for many years.... all brands
  4. Beezerboy

    Klr600 retarded timing

    as mentioned... check the key in the rotor (flywheel) they have been known to shear if the rotor nut torque is loose. the key can also be pushed out during installation of the rotor. if that happens, its only a matter of time before it moves. you should be able to see the end of the key in both of the slots (rotor and crank). there are some tricks to the installation and the torquing procedure, so if you need to re-do the rotor & key let us know.
  5. Beezerboy

    Klr600 retarded timing

    setup is the same as the 650. exhaust cam lobes point forward, intake lobes point back. with piston at TDC the lines on the cam gears should lay parallel to the parting line for the valve cover. its never perfect, but should be close, and moving the chain one tooth looks obviously worse. at TDC there should be a sideways "T" in the the inspection hole (left side engine cover, above the center of the crank). be sure to check valve clearance too
  6. the gas cap only uses about 1/2 the ignition
  7. Beezerboy

    OEM rear shock rebuild kit?

    been away for a while.... but the answer is yes. heres how... http://calgarydualsport.tripod.com/klr650shock/procedure.html parts on fleabay
  8. Beezerboy

    klr650 found rubber and a washer in the oil pan

    if its not off the starter drive train, its from the doohicky shaft. its a thrust washer that goes between the case and the needle bearing on the bottom gear. if you pull the shaft clear of the case, it falls into the sump... there is a big hole just under the shaft for return oil to the sump. you don't even have to remove the shaft... only just pull its slightly away from the case & down she goes. this of course has never happens to me (ha ha) part # 92062B as for the "rubber".... prolly RTV. the book shows coating the valve cover gasket along the left side. when you check valves all that has to be removed and some of it falls in even if you are careful. the only part that need the RTV is the 2 cutouts from where the cam shafts were milled, the rest of the gasket is in a groove in the cover and ain't going anywhere. I install the cover, the put a fat dot of RTV on the rubber cutout plug..... about the size of a nickle, RTV is 1/2 on the head and 1/2 on the rubber. next time you need to go into the valves, peel off the RTV before you pull the cover, none will fall in the engine.
  9. Beezerboy

    1993 KLX650C backfiring when turned off??

    I'm gonna say too rich. extra fuel is in the muffler & when the engine is running, there is no extra oxygen in the muffler to burn the fuel. it lights off once the engine stops because air can get through the tailpipe. you can get lean backfire because the mix is still burning when the valve opens (lean mix burns slower), but as mentioned above, thats during running
  10. Beezerboy

    WONT WHEELIE

    the CV40 that the Hardly uses is a pretty different carb from the CVK.... different castings, different jet numbers, emulsion tubes, etc, so don't mix parts. the diaphragm & slide are the same though I was going to try one some years ago but didn't.... seems like you have alter the intake side of the carb too because HD screws a box to the carb for the filter... no rubber boot. it's been done though
  11. Beezerboy

    KLR 250 - blown?

    first thing I would do is check the valve timing. with the piston at TDC on the end of the compression stroke, the exhaust cam lobes should point forward, the intake lobes point aft. there should be a line on each cam gear that is parallel to the valve cover line. (sometime they are slightly off but they should be close). thats also where you set/check valve clearance. if the cams are off, the problem is likely the tensioner has allowed the chain to jump. there are better replacements for the tensioner, including ones that are manual adjust. there are also ways to jury rig whats there. next thing to look for is bent valves... sometimes obvious, but sometimes not. you can take the rocker out of the way and pop the valve tip with a soft face hammer & see if they stick. (dont do this with piston at TDC)... might or might not show a sticky valve... they are sometimes hard to see. best thing is a "leak down" check. if you do a regular comp check you have to disable the compression release let us know what you find
  12. Beezerboy

    WONT WHEELIE

    changing the exhaust one tooth works best on the Gen II head, and Gen I heads that have been ported. Eagle Mike is the originator of this mod as far as I know (he dyno tested it a few years back). the 3 klr heads are not the same... the 600 head and the Gen 2 are better castings with cleaner ports. doing the tooth on the straight Gen I head has had mixed results... possibly due to variations in the castings. there is a big thread about this on 650.net somewhere. I thought it worked for me, but I have a stage 1 head & 705,, plus other stuff
  13. Beezerboy

    Klr 600 timing

    there is a timing mark on the rotor... you can remove the plug & see it when near top center with the piston. what I do is, pull the spark plug, turn the engine so the exhaust lobes point forward, and the intakes point aft. insert a pencil in the hole, turn the engine until you verify TDC. back off a few degrees look in the witness hole for a "T" laying on its side (stamped on the flywheel). thats the timing position. when you are there.... the lines on the cam gears should be parallel to the split line for the cover. they do not always align perfectly, but what I see in your pic would be too much of you were on the "T". the witness hole is the screw plug above the center of the crank.... on the left side engine cover if anything has to come off to change timing, you need to remove the tensioner first or stuff might bind. first thing to do is crack the 12mm bolt in the middle that holds the spring, then pull the 2 bolts that hold the housing (10mm wrench) & remove. the 12 is a biotch if you don't at least loosen it first. the mating surface for the valve cover does not need any sealant except where the 2 cam cut outs are (the thumb shaped bits on the left side) the rest of the gasket has a ridge that fits a groove in the cover. I put the works together & then put a fat blob of RTV on the cutouts (on the outside) that way I don;t have to scrape the gasket surfaces clean and I don't have to worry about stuff falling into the engine if the gasket or the bolt seals leak, replace them. if you are desperate & don;t have parts.... goop them with RTV be careful with the torque on the cover bolts... they need only to be tightened until they bottom out (I think 60 INCH pounds)... any tighter pulls the threads out of the head & are a biotch to fix (I have several methods though, depending)
  14. Beezerboy

    No power but still kick-starting

    might be broken wires but it is also possible that there is enough corrosion in the connector to keep things from working. there is a quick disconnect on the key switch.... has about 6 wires, under the gas tank... that one. it is also a good place to access the wires for meter readings a cruddy connector might still read 12v, but not pass current. thats due to the meter's own high resistance... long story. sometimes a test light is better because it actually pulls a load
  15. Beezerboy

    No power but still kick-starting

    there is no power getting to the electrical systems. the ignition is totally on it's own and does not need the battery in any way the white wire from battery is main power. it goes from battery to fuse, to the key switch. everything is powered from that switch except the radiator fan. power leaves the key switch and heads back to the other fuse (by the battery) to feed the lighting circuits. check for power at the key switch. the cooling fan has its own fuse up by the overflow bottle but it ties to the white wire before the key switch. you can pull the wire off the temp sensor & touch it to ground. the fan should come on. if it does, there is power on the white wire after the main fuse as far as that connection (near the fan fuse) the alternator output also ties to the white wire. it is spliced in between the battery and the key switch. neither power source can reach the systems because the key sw is boogered. white is the input.... but the hot wires coming out of the key sw are BROWN... they should have 12v when the key is on
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