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Beezerboy

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Everything posted by Beezerboy

  1. Beezerboy

    new DR350 for me

    so, I've got a line on a DR350... a '96(?) SE. I've been trying to find out what they actually weigh for one thing. also what to look for when I go see it (400 miles away), what to ask about before I drive all the way out there too. I'm an aircraft mechanic & owned bikes for over 50 years (old guy) so pretty comfortable with the standard stuff... what are the quirky bits? also, I have a choice of tanks. stock or what the owner thinks is a Clark. I had a Clark on my DRZ & liked it pretty well but I'm picking up feelers that indicate its not the best. any opinions on that? thanks guys.
  2. Beezerboy

    Klr600 retarded timing

    there are ohm readings for the coil & also some voltage readings when it cranks. the manual should have those numbers. as for re-installing the rotor (flywheel).... I paint the end of the key yellow so I can see it after it's installed. put a couple punch marks on the side of the key to help it stay in the keyway better because as you have probably seen, its kinda loose in the groove. you are supposed to use a new bolt each time, but many have been re-used. up to you. the torque given in the book is too high for some bikes (130 ft lbs). the 600 and early 650s suffered rotor drag at top torque, so the back yard procedure (that works) is to torque in increments and test for indications of drag. you go until you start to drag, then back it off and re-torque to just below whatever that was. anything over 100 is good. I got that from the old (new defunct) Eldon Carl site which is now Top gun.
  3. Beezerboy

    Radial tires

    all the time.... for many years.... all brands
  4. Beezerboy

    Klr600 retarded timing

    as mentioned... check the key in the rotor (flywheel) they have been known to shear if the rotor nut torque is loose. the key can also be pushed out during installation of the rotor. if that happens, its only a matter of time before it moves. you should be able to see the end of the key in both of the slots (rotor and crank). there are some tricks to the installation and the torquing procedure, so if you need to re-do the rotor & key let us know.
  5. Beezerboy

    Klr600 retarded timing

    setup is the same as the 650. exhaust cam lobes point forward, intake lobes point back. with piston at TDC the lines on the cam gears should lay parallel to the parting line for the valve cover. its never perfect, but should be close, and moving the chain one tooth looks obviously worse. at TDC there should be a sideways "T" in the the inspection hole (left side engine cover, above the center of the crank). be sure to check valve clearance too
  6. the gas cap only uses about 1/2 the ignition
  7. Beezerboy

    OEM rear shock rebuild kit?

    been away for a while.... but the answer is yes. heres how... http://calgarydualsport.tripod.com/klr650shock/procedure.html parts on fleabay
  8. Beezerboy

    klr650 found rubber and a washer in the oil pan

    if its not off the starter drive train, its from the doohicky shaft. its a thrust washer that goes between the case and the needle bearing on the bottom gear. if you pull the shaft clear of the case, it falls into the sump... there is a big hole just under the shaft for return oil to the sump. you don't even have to remove the shaft... only just pull its slightly away from the case & down she goes. this of course has never happens to me (ha ha) part # 92062B as for the "rubber".... prolly RTV. the book shows coating the valve cover gasket along the left side. when you check valves all that has to be removed and some of it falls in even if you are careful. the only part that need the RTV is the 2 cutouts from where the cam shafts were milled, the rest of the gasket is in a groove in the cover and ain't going anywhere. I install the cover, the put a fat dot of RTV on the rubber cutout plug..... about the size of a nickle, RTV is 1/2 on the head and 1/2 on the rubber. next time you need to go into the valves, peel off the RTV before you pull the cover, none will fall in the engine.
  9. Beezerboy

    1993 KLX650C backfiring when turned off??

    I'm gonna say too rich. extra fuel is in the muffler & when the engine is running, there is no extra oxygen in the muffler to burn the fuel. it lights off once the engine stops because air can get through the tailpipe. you can get lean backfire because the mix is still burning when the valve opens (lean mix burns slower), but as mentioned above, thats during running
  10. Beezerboy

    WONT WHEELIE

    the CV40 that the Hardly uses is a pretty different carb from the CVK.... different castings, different jet numbers, emulsion tubes, etc, so don't mix parts. the diaphragm & slide are the same though I was going to try one some years ago but didn't.... seems like you have alter the intake side of the carb too because HD screws a box to the carb for the filter... no rubber boot. it's been done though
  11. Beezerboy

    KLR 250 - blown?

    first thing I would do is check the valve timing. with the piston at TDC on the end of the compression stroke, the exhaust cam lobes should point forward, the intake lobes point aft. there should be a line on each cam gear that is parallel to the valve cover line. (sometime they are slightly off but they should be close). thats also where you set/check valve clearance. if the cams are off, the problem is likely the tensioner has allowed the chain to jump. there are better replacements for the tensioner, including ones that are manual adjust. there are also ways to jury rig whats there. next thing to look for is bent valves... sometimes obvious, but sometimes not. you can take the rocker out of the way and pop the valve tip with a soft face hammer & see if they stick. (dont do this with piston at TDC)... might or might not show a sticky valve... they are sometimes hard to see. best thing is a "leak down" check. if you do a regular comp check you have to disable the compression release let us know what you find
  12. Beezerboy

    WONT WHEELIE

    changing the exhaust one tooth works best on the Gen II head, and Gen I heads that have been ported. Eagle Mike is the originator of this mod as far as I know (he dyno tested it a few years back). the 3 klr heads are not the same... the 600 head and the Gen 2 are better castings with cleaner ports. doing the tooth on the straight Gen I head has had mixed results... possibly due to variations in the castings. there is a big thread about this on 650.net somewhere. I thought it worked for me, but I have a stage 1 head & 705,, plus other stuff
  13. Beezerboy

    Klr 600 timing

    there is a timing mark on the rotor... you can remove the plug & see it when near top center with the piston. what I do is, pull the spark plug, turn the engine so the exhaust lobes point forward, and the intakes point aft. insert a pencil in the hole, turn the engine until you verify TDC. back off a few degrees look in the witness hole for a "T" laying on its side (stamped on the flywheel). thats the timing position. when you are there.... the lines on the cam gears should be parallel to the split line for the cover. they do not always align perfectly, but what I see in your pic would be too much of you were on the "T". the witness hole is the screw plug above the center of the crank.... on the left side engine cover if anything has to come off to change timing, you need to remove the tensioner first or stuff might bind. first thing to do is crack the 12mm bolt in the middle that holds the spring, then pull the 2 bolts that hold the housing (10mm wrench) & remove. the 12 is a biotch if you don't at least loosen it first. the mating surface for the valve cover does not need any sealant except where the 2 cam cut outs are (the thumb shaped bits on the left side) the rest of the gasket has a ridge that fits a groove in the cover. I put the works together & then put a fat blob of RTV on the cutouts (on the outside) that way I don;t have to scrape the gasket surfaces clean and I don't have to worry about stuff falling into the engine if the gasket or the bolt seals leak, replace them. if you are desperate & don;t have parts.... goop them with RTV be careful with the torque on the cover bolts... they need only to be tightened until they bottom out (I think 60 INCH pounds)... any tighter pulls the threads out of the head & are a biotch to fix (I have several methods though, depending)
  14. Beezerboy

    No power but still kick-starting

    might be broken wires but it is also possible that there is enough corrosion in the connector to keep things from working. there is a quick disconnect on the key switch.... has about 6 wires, under the gas tank... that one. it is also a good place to access the wires for meter readings a cruddy connector might still read 12v, but not pass current. thats due to the meter's own high resistance... long story. sometimes a test light is better because it actually pulls a load
  15. Beezerboy

    No power but still kick-starting

    there is no power getting to the electrical systems. the ignition is totally on it's own and does not need the battery in any way the white wire from battery is main power. it goes from battery to fuse, to the key switch. everything is powered from that switch except the radiator fan. power leaves the key switch and heads back to the other fuse (by the battery) to feed the lighting circuits. check for power at the key switch. the cooling fan has its own fuse up by the overflow bottle but it ties to the white wire before the key switch. you can pull the wire off the temp sensor & touch it to ground. the fan should come on. if it does, there is power on the white wire after the main fuse as far as that connection (near the fan fuse) the alternator output also ties to the white wire. it is spliced in between the battery and the key switch. neither power source can reach the systems because the key sw is boogered. white is the input.... but the hot wires coming out of the key sw are BROWN... they should have 12v when the key is on
  16. Beezerboy

    Need to get opinions on the 2004 KLR

    oh yea.... I have almost 30k miles on mine with the 705 cylinder. at least 50k total on 3 klrs. never been left walking, never had to push. BTW, the Gen I will run without a battery if you can bump start it (I have done it just to see) the Gen II must have a good battery and charging system to run the Gen I forks need proper (over) servicing to perform. the book says, drain the oil, collapse the fork, remove the springs, add oil (10 wt) (ATF) until 190mm from the top. they need more oil.... increase to at least 170mm from the top. add more if you like. I have checked at least 3 dozen at tech days and NONE had even the 190 level unless the owner did the work. more oil, less fork dive. even with the (fantastic) Ricor valves you need more oil. before valving mine, I was running between 165mm and 155mm and 10-15 psi air on top (Gen I has valves.... and yes, you can, the sticker on the fork says up to 25psi). I have run the oil as high as 40mm (yes 40, not 140) but it can get harsh. a fork brace helps too, get the Eagle one so you can drop the fender. replace it with a UFO or KTM, that keeps the radiator clean & gives it better air flow too also, I have done maybe 4 dozen doo changes. seen a lot of failed parts but the '04 holds the record for lowest mile failure.... broken spring at about 1000 miles from new (never touched from new). I bought an 05 new in late 04... my spring was broken when I checked it at 2400 miles (never touched since new). 05-07 also seem to have some piston land failures, changed a few... did 3 a couple summers ago.... heres 2, plus one that just plain wore out due to an intake leak that sucked dirt into the cylinder over the Denali Highway. also.... there are no rings for the Gen I piston.... Kawi quit making them in 08 wihen they changed the piston change. all for the good in the long run.... there are better choices
  17. Beezerboy

    Need to get opinions on the 2004 KLR

    nope.... pretty decent road bike. I can stay with more powerful bikes of all types in the twisties. lose out big time to 100hp bikes on the straight aways though. they are pretty smooth.... not twin cylinder smooth, but.... ever drive a KTM 650? when you do the 685 it will be the smoothest big single you ever rode... dam near as smooth as my GS 1150. things that help.... do the doo and keep it set, fix the lean carb problem (Eagle KLX kit is best, but 22 cent mod helps if low buck, don't bother the drill the slide), set valves to match so both intakes have the same clearance, etc., be sure the engine mount bolts are tight. do some head work when you 685 btw.... the Avon Gripster in the pic.... decent road tire.... worst dual sport tire ever. "nervous" on gravel, banana skins on mud or grass. I've run all the top contenders, the Gripster is the worst... total rubbish. they last a long time.... how long? too f-n long, I took them off & tossed 'em after a couple thousand miles with tons of tread left. good on the pave, not suited for off pavement riding
  18. Beezerboy

    685 upgrade mpg

    no. the screw is the idle (pilot) mixture. it is pretty much out of the picture over 1/4 throttle. the difference in main jet sizes you hear about may be due the fact that people use other needles. the needle size and taper makes a huge difference. the Eagle Mike kit with the KLX needle is a good way to go if you want to re-jet, he has it pretty well figured out & includes good instructions. the Dynojet kit works but may be a step down. be aware that Dyno and Kehin have different size jets for any given number. Kehin jets are smaller (metering hole) because they have a different system, and a different needle..... do not mix brands. the 22 cent mod is the cheap way to get a bit better performance. my recommendation is to NOT drill the slide. it makes for a quicker response, and thats good for wheelies but bad on rough trails. heres some good stuff about the CV40.... not all of it relates to our carbs, but it has a good rundown of the systems http://vulcangadgets.com/files/keihin_carb.html
  19. Beezerboy

    Need to get opinions on the 2004 KLR

    the older Gen I is (can be) a slightly better dirt bike than the Gen II. the suspension has more travel, its lighter and has less vulnerable plastic. the engine is mostly the same. it needs the doohicky changed (they all do). needs a little carb work, grease the swing arm, etc.... servicing the forks properly is critical on Gen I. valving the forks makes a huge difference, Ricor valves are super easy & transform the bike. a better shock helps too. are you looking or do you already have this bike?
  20. Beezerboy

    685 upgrade mpg

    not enough gain from carb mods???? the carb comes way lean in the idle range, it needs the be re-set. read up on the 22 cent mod if you don't already know about it. the KLX kit is a good mod too. I would say don't bother to drill the slide, but the bike does benefit from a re-jet. if you fiddle with the air box, snorkle, or exhaust then ya, for sure. you might lose a couple mpg but properly done it shouldn't be that bad. bear in mind that Dynojet and Kehin jets with the same number are a different size... don't mix them. no need to change jetting for a 685. I gotta believe that the more spunky engine is at least partly responsible for lower mileage too
  21. Beezerboy

    Rumor or FAct? The doohickey

    ya, and the pre '96 ones have even more parts... the balance weights have springs that eventually wear out and fall into the case. the good news is the old weights can be replaced with newer style solid ones.... they go straight on the shafts with no mods. so if you read this & own a 95 or older... start lookin' on fleabay for weights 'cause yours are shot the KLX650 has one weight, no springs..... gear driven.
  22. Beezerboy

    Sometimes you get lucky

    the main starter circuit is not fused, only the control circuit is, and unless it has a short, it will not blow the fuse. what ever it was that took out the fuse it, weren't the charger. no problem changing fuse type but, not really necessary as long as there is good maintenance. keep stuff clean
  23. Beezerboy

    Sometimes you get lucky

    good score. any indication why the fuse blew out? the main fuse (the white wires) should be a 20A, the fuse for lighting was originally a 10... but it needs to be a 15. sometimes the hi/low switch will turn on both at the same time while switching & that will blow a 10A fuse. power goes through the main fuse, then to to key, then back to the lighting fuse. there is a 3rd fuse for the fan, located up by the coolant tank. it is independent of other circuits. do the doo... (check it anyway) grease the swing arm check the valves check the oil every time you fuel up until you know how much it uses. low oil destroys the head service the forks...pull the springs collapse the fork, add 10 wt oil (ATF) until at least 170mm from the top. more oil if you want. more oil = less dive. you can trim wit 10-20 psi air if you like. get Ricor valves when you can afford them if you are going off road dump the Gripsters. they are great on the pavement but suck donky balls in the dirt.... they last forever but are the worst of all DS tires I have run on my KLRs (which is about 10-12 brands... all the major contenders).
  24. Beezerboy

    Rumor or FAct? The doohickey

    ooop..... when I said "the inner lever is retained as a spacer even though it is not required for the spring." I meant if you use the Eagle Mike TORSION spring.... any coil spring you use will still require the inner lever. Mike makes a coil spring too
  25. Beezerboy

    Rumor or FAct? The doohickey

    oh, BTW the Eagle lever is better quality and fit. if you do change things out, the inner lever is retained as a spacer even though it is not required for the spring. also, if you pull the shaft out for whatever reason, the inner thrust washer 92026B will fall into the case. no problem retrieving it as long as you know. you don't even have to remove the shaft, only pull it out about 1/2" & the washer is gone. if you decide to stay with the coil spring, you can make an inspection port for a small bore scope. the first bolt hole forward of the adjuster plug is a blind hole, drill out the bottom.... it points right at the OEM spring. if you have a small scope, you can see the gap in the coils which indicates it still has adjustment (and it;s still there). RTV the bolt back in. I did this to mine before there was a torsion spring
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