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About mjs12

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  1. JumpinJack, what fork oil weight are you running? My setup and weight are similar to yours but with .44's instead of .46's. I'm running 10wt but find that my front deflects alot and is quite jarring in the rocky stuff and pushes in the soft stuff. Thinking about dropping back to 5wt or 7.5wt. Kind Regards, Matt.
  2. Yeah I only tested the 145MJ today and thought it would be ok but as you can see, it's still too rich. I did test a 130MJ the other day and it was heaps lean but my logger didn't save the data properly. If I had a removable main air jet, I'd change it straight away. It's just that I'll be doing irreversible mods to the carby (drilling a passage is not a major deal though), but I want to check if people think it will be worth doing before I take the plunge. Cheers, Matt.
  3. Hi, I own a KLX300 and have recently put in a FCR37 from a 2005 CRF250X. I've got a wideband O2 meter which I'm using to dial it in. Patrick Burns wrote in his FCR tuning guide: "Main air jet: If you find that the engine runs perfectly at WOT near the torque peak, but becomes lean toward redline, select smaller main air jets. Conversely, if the engine runs perfectly near the torque peak but richens toward redline, select larger main air jets." My engine is definitely getting richer towards redline. The graph shows the air-to-fuel ratio I have measured at 100% throttle: Now the FCR I have has the plain casting (which is equivalent to a 200 MAJ) in place of the removable main air jet. My question is, based on the wideband data shown, should I drill out the MAJ passage or modify the carb body to accept a removable main air jet or is it not enough of an issue to worry about? Kind Regards, Matt.
  4. You can see the similarities in the attached pic between the hot start and choke valves. It's just that I don't know if the brass part that goes into the bore is the same.
  5. Hi All, I've bought a 2nd hand FCR37 that is missing the hot start valve. Can I use a spare choke valve in place of the hot start valve? They look very similar and the choke valve does screw into the hot start port and seats ok. Cheers, Matt.
  6. mjs12

    klx 300 /FCR 37 couldn't be happier

    Good work mate. Any idea what needle you are running or what bike your FCR is from? Cheers, Matt.
  7. Hi Guys, I've come across a cheap 34mm PHF pumper Dellorto (PHF 34DS). It was from an early 90's Husky TE350. I've yet to receive this carby but the baseline jetting from the 95 Husky factory manual is: Throttle Valve 40/3 Needle & Position K32/3rd Idle Jet 58 Needle Valve 250 Main jet 138 Spray Nozzle 258 AB Starting Jet 65 Accelerator Pump Jet 30 Air Screw 2 Turns I'm hopng to fit this carby to a 98 KLX300. Currently, the air box lid is off and it will soon have a bigger header. I only trail ride, the temperature range is 60-90F and the elevation is around 1000ft. So, is the Husky baseline jetting a good place to start for the KLX300. Can anyone recommended a better starting point? Thanks in advance, Matt.
  8. mjs12

    klx300 suspension questions?

    Thanks for the quick reply Brewster! I'm not really concerned at all, I was actually hoping that having a non standard number of clicks may indicate that there may have been modifications made to the forks and shock like aftermarket valves etc. My bike (which is a '98 Australian KLX300) was initially used for enduro races by a previous owner (2 owners ago) and I'm just going through the bike to figure out what mods may have been made. The symptom that I'm trying to cure is that the front seems to wash out far too easily. I've tried different riding technique, set my rear sag and I'm now progressing the rest of the suspension. PlanetKLX and Thumpertalk are great resources for suspension tuning. Thanks again, Matt.
  9. mjs12

    klx300 suspension questions?

    Like Darren, I also have more than 16 clicks of adjustment with both my forks and shock. Each fork has a total of 24 clicks. The shock compression screw has 22 clicks while the shock rebound has 25 clicks. Has anyone else experienced a similar thing? The adjustment screws rotate smoothly, click cleanly and don't feel stripped at all. Kind Regards, Matt.
  10. mjs12

    KLX300 Tire width

    I assume you're asking about the rear. I've got a 130/80/18 TW-302 Trailwing which clears fine but there's not a lot of extra room. Kind Regards, Matt.
  11. Thanks for the input guys. Halfcab, I was under the impression that the EXC's were not intended for highway cruising and that KTM sent out a letter indicating that? Was this only certain models? Only the 2smokers maybe? Kind Regards, Matt.
  12. In terms of road use, I mainly want to go on ride days with my road bike mates probably once a month. Otherwise, there will be the occasional 1-2 hour road ride to get off road. I'm after a bike that can do that on the road while maximizing it's off road ability mainly for single track, tight woods riding. Probably 20%/80% road/trail. I've just done some more reading and it sounds like the TE450/510 are higher performance bikes, higher maintenance, closer gearbox ratios etc. The 610 however is certainly interesting. Powerful, wide ratio 6 speed and electric start. Maybe a touch heavy though and it seems some people find them a bit too much bike for tighter stuff. Kind Regards, Matt.
  13. Hi Guys, I need a lower maintenance bike that is mainly dirt orientated but is happy to cruise on the highway when needed (possibly with a change of tyres). I'm about 190 pounds and have ridden off and on over the last 10 years. I have narrowed my choice down to an XR400, DRZ400 or KLX300. But what are my possible options from the euro brands? Many of the euro's (Husaberg FE400e, KTM's EXC's depending who you talk to) seem to be higher performance but higher maintenance bikes more like YZ's and WR's and not very happy to on the highway for longer periods. So for my intended purpose, what are the other alternatives worth considering? Thanks in advance, Matt.