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TrailTiger

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About TrailTiger

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    TT Bronze Member

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  • Location
    Texas
  1. TrailTiger

    Knob behind the choke - crf230f

    Badboy, Purchase a maintenance manual as you have the time. It will save you endless agrivation, and will show you not only how to take the bike apart and put it back together, but it also will give you hints and torque values for the fasteners. They aren't very expensive, and will save you tons of money and time in the long run.
  2. TrailTiger

    Sprocket Change for a 230F

    2008 - 230 F I have done the re-jetting and the air box snorkle removal, and uncorked the exhaust. Before these mods, it was not possible for me to pop the front wheel off the ground while riding. I want to go to a 15 or a 14 tooth front sprocket for the additional speed and range of speed in each gear, but in doing so, will I again have the problem of the front wheel not wanting to come off the ground when I want to get over a rock or a decent sized fallen tree branch?
  3. TrailTiger

    D-Bit - Where to buy?

    Eddie, Thanks again for the help. I re-opened the link you provided a couple of posts back and after looking at it more closely, realized that the D bit you were trying to point me to was discernable from the bit list, and it did not require buying the tool, or the whole kit. Thanks for your patience, I am not the sharpest tool in the shed. I ordered the dbit today. $2.90 for the bit, $6.00 for shipping. Will use plyers on the end if it does not fit my rachet to get the fuel screw out. Thanks again for your help and patience.
  4. TrailTiger

    D-Bit - Where to buy?

    As always Eddie, Thanks for helping me out. I will ask around at the dealerships I know of in the area. I don't know any shops around here. Thanks again for your help.
  5. TrailTiger

    D-Bit - Where to buy?

    Eddie, thanks for your help. I am not planning on removing the screw more than once. Can you please give me the cheap solution - individual bit numer, or cheap way of getting the fuel screw out? I have ordered an extended fuel screw from Kouba link, so this is a one time removal of the stock screw. cant swing 85 bones for a tool right now.
  6. Am trying to remove the stock fuel screw on a 2008 honda crf230f. The web site says to buy a D-Bit from Motion Pro (special tool in the shape of a D to remove the fuel screw on 2006 and up CRF 230 carbs). Went to the web site, can not find the tool. Looked for other places to buy it, can not find it. Anyone know where to buy the socket required to remove these d shaped fuel screws? web site and product number would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
  7. I am trying to figure out which method is best for where I live - San Antonio Texas. Elevations I ride in 450 to about 1000 or so. First post on this thread recommends Pilot Jet size of 45, The link to the article that Rick has written recommends 42. First post recommends power up needle - clip on 4th position, Ricks method recommends middle position. At the elevation I am riding at 450 to 1000, which pilot jet is best 42 or 45, also which clip position on the needle - middle, fourth, and fifth also shows up in this thread. Additionally, at my elevation, how many turns out should the pilot screw be adjusted? Thanks. Just want to make sure I am buying and installing the right stuff and setting it up correctly.
  8. TrailTiger

    daughters new bike!

    Massivemassey, Where are you in Texas?
  9. Sorry Eddie, first time on the jetting forum, just saw your list of questions. 1)year/make/model - 2008 CRF 230 F 2)conditions (elevation,temp,humidity if extreme,type of riding - Elevation 850 feet above sea level. temp 75 degrees to 102 degrees mid summer, humidity low to moderate, type of riding - trails, jumps, some easy motorcross stuff when chasing my kids. 3)modifications (pipe,air box,motor) Will remove baffle from stock exaust. Motor is stock currently, will remove without cutting the snorkle from the air box. 4)current jetting.the answer to this question is not "stock".i tune hundreds of different motorcycles.as much info as i do remember it is not physically possible to remember the stock jetting for everything.i need to know the complete stock jetting including needle code. Don't know what is in it, bought the bike a week ago from dealer, started it, runs fine. Want to add more power - web site says the kit to buy is honda power up kit part # 16012-kps-921 and also says to put the clip in the middle position. It says to turn the pilot screw 5/8ths turn out. Says for the jetting info: Main:132-part # 99113-ghb-1320. The web site says the stock pilot is 42, and I have no way of knowing how to check if the web site is right regarding what is in the bike. Also do not know what location the bike instructions from the web site were done for or the altitude. 5)running issue that is trying to be cured. Trying to get a couple more horse power out of the motor, and richen it up some so it is not so cold upon start up. Primary reason is to uncork the bike to try to get what additional power I can. Eventually will add a different muffler / pipe, but am real strapped for cash right now after the totaling of the drz 4-5-08. 6)does the running issue change?affected by motor temp?better or worse when hot?better or worse when cold? When cold, wants to die until warm. Once bike is warm it runs good, but I have not purchased the kit or the jet yet. I am asking these questions to attempt to buy and install the right parts to start with. Thank you Eddie.
  10. I want to replace the needle and jet on a new 2008 CRF 230 F, and do not know which slot to use for the needle, or which jet size to buy for San Antonio altitude and conditions. Please help. Want to uncork the bike and put the honda power up kit on it. Local stealership indicated that for $250 they would do it for me, but from looking at the steps on a different web site, mechanically it doesn't seem too difficult. Just don't know what clip to use on the needle, how many turns out on the fuel screw, or which jet to use for this area. Anyone know what I need to do?
  11. No, I am not buying it back from Insurance and parting it out. I don't have the time, space or patience required. On the initial reply to my original post, thanks - that site is great. I do have a question though about un-corking it. Do the needles and jetting come in different sizes to accout for elevation? If I buy and try to install the kit they describe, what else will I have to do to account for the altitude of San Antonio in making it run right? Also, how can you tell if the mixture is too lean or rich? Thanks, Trailtiger
  12. Hello everyone, I have been on Thumper Talk since late 2006. Have been on the DRZ forum most of the time. Totaled my DRZ 400s a couple of weeks ago. Insurance didn't provide enough to repalce it with a new DRZ, and I could not personally fix the bike myself, so I bought a new CRF 230 F as an afordable replacement this weekend that would allow me to continue to ride with my sons. Hopefully, within the next three to four years, my oldest son will take over the CRF 230 F, and I will be able to afford a reasonably priced new dual sport with reasonable power to weight ratio. In dropping from a 400 cc to a 230 cc, I am looking for any free or cheap modifications that can help to increase the horsepower of the 230. What low cost or free modifications should I be considering? Thanks, Trailtiger
  13. TrailTiger

    Thanks for all your help

    Thank you to each of you who provided me valuable information regarding the DRZ 400 S since July 2006. Unfortunately, the insurance company totaled the bike. I delayed turning the bike over hoping I could strip it down and bend the sub frame back into place. As I got the back end of the bike stripped, I began to try to bend the sub frame, and quickly noticed that the tabs where the four connection points of the sub frame attach to the main frame were bent pretty bad. Main Frame tabs bent pretty bad. Not being much of a mechanic, I could not get the subframe bent back in place, and every attempt at trying to straighten the tabs of the main frame were un-successful. After two days of trying and making no headway, I have thrown in the towel. I decided to take a few steps backward due to my current financial situation, and purchased a Honda CRF 230f this weekend. Within the next three years, I expect my youngest son to be able to handle my middle sons honda 50, and expect my middle son to be able to handle my oldest sons honda xr100r, and expect my oldest son to be able to handle the crf 230f. At that time I hope to buy another drz or another dual sport bike. Who knows what will be available and affordable in three to four years. Again, thanks for all your advice and help. You will be able to find me on the honda crf 230 forum for the next few years. Trailtiger
  14. TrailTiger

    Probrably Totaled DRZ400s - advice please

    Sorry for the delay in response. Wasn't around the computer yesterday. I can get pictures of it and will in the next few days. It is at the dealership while the insurance company decides which way they want to go. In looking at it, the only locations that the main frame looks bent to me is where the sub frame, back pegs, and mega rack connected to the frame. The rack I had on uses the same bolts as the lower connection on the back pegs. I didn't see any other areas of the frame that looked bent or damaged to me. I did not strip the bike down, but really the bike doesnt look very bad. Those stock handle bars I expected to bend, as I have read on this forum how easily they do so because they are cheaply made. The plastics are scratched up, but that is nothing. A few scratches on the stock tank, and the leverage of the rack did bend the sub frame really bad, but I do not believe this bike should be totaled. In answering the how and where did it happen - on a dirt road, cresting a hill at 45 miles an hour, came over hill, two big - deep and unexpected mud puddles came up quickly. As prior to reaching the top of the hill, they were not in sight. There was a small diagnal dirt ridge between the two that made an s shaped bridge between the puddles. I cut the handlebars too far to the left to try to stay on the ridge between the puddles. The bike then launched me over the handlebars over the puddles and head first into the dirt. Totally my fault - bone headed over reactive move and cutting too hard at that speed. Would have probably worked out better to bottom out the bike and ride out the bumps in going straight through the puddle. Live, ache and learn I guess.
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