Jump to content

1992yz125

Members
  • Content Count

    2,484
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About 1992yz125

  • Rank
    TT Titanium Member

Profile Information

  • Location
    Connecticut

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. 1992yz125

    Carb or porting?

    Yes, I drilled 7 1/2 inch holes in each side of the airbox to let it breath better. 1221111832 by jasong4, on Flickr I'm not sure if this would also apply to the 250's but it did a lot to wake up the 125. It felt like the difference between a clean air filter and one caked in mud.
  2. 1992yz125

    Carb or porting?

    Hi all, got a quick question. I've got an '04 cr125 and I'm slowly getting the motor up to speed. The bike has reeds, pipe and silencer, I've done the airbox mod (with a lot of success) and the newer airboot is in the mail. I'm happy with everything else on the bike, so I'm going to invest a bit in the motor. So here's my question: A PWK airstriker with JD jets is $250. So is porting, polishing, and head mods from Eric Gorr. Which would you do first? I like the powerband like it is, and both of these mods are mid/top so it's a wash here. The one caveat is that I don't want to have to run race gas, so the Eric Gorr mods wouldn't include a big bump in compression, just some standard porting and head work. Both will come in the next year, but I'm just curious what people would say is the "better" mod.
  3. 1992yz125

    Post pics of your CR's

    2004 125 A73A4990 by jasong4, on Flickr
  4. 1992yz125

    CR125 air boot

    I noticed today that the air boot on my 2004 125 has a 'lip' molded on the inside that blocks airflow to two small ports on the bottom of the carb intake. Any ideas why this is? And does this have anything to do with the fact that people swap to a newer air boot for better performance?
  5. 1992yz125

    Not much top end on CR125

    here's a picture, the other side is that same. 1221111832 by jasong4, on Flickr And still no info on the power valve?
  6. 1992yz125

    Not much top end on CR125

    Just got the bike back together and did a couple pulls up and down the driveway. The bike may be a hair louder, but more than that it sounds and feels snappier. Basically it feels like the bike revs cleaner and more freely than it did before. Overall, I'm pretty impressed. It's not night and day, but it's pretty noticeable. It feels like the difference between a clean and very dirty air filter. I hope the '05 airboot helps just as much.
  7. 1992yz125

    Not much top end on CR125

    Bump for this... I've also got an '04 and I've heard this mentioned a couple times, but no one has elaborated. Are you adjusting to stock or to have it come on earlier? And how do you do this? And I also just got done drilling 7 little 1/2 inch holes in each side of the airbox and backing it with a mesh. Doesn't effect the strength of it at all, and worst case scenario, it's a $50 part to replace. Soon to come is the '05 airboot. Also, correct me if I'm wrong, but you would see NO difference in the amount of dust on the filter. This mod doesn't change how much air passes through the filter (RPM and jetting would) or how clean the air is; it just changes how hard the bike has to 'pull' for the air.
  8. 1992yz125

    Drills?

    One of the best drills that I've ever done (courtesy of Libor), was to make a section made up just of continuous switchbacks up/down a hill. It should be loose and tricky, and it should be just within your skill level to clean. Ride it a couple times normally, then ride it through 3 more ways: once with your weight as far forward over the bars as you can, one with your body way back over the rear fender and one as low and far to the outside as you can (see the picture). All of this forces you to play with new angles between body bike and ground, shows you what kind of weighting works and what doesn't, and helps you to loosen up and use all of your range of motion. It makes a great warm-up at the beginning of a ride. Also, generally try to do new things in practice sections. Do everything in a lower gear to teach yourself how to get the most out of your momentum or cope without it. Do it in a higher gear or without a clutch to practice your balance in motion and smoothness. Every time you place yourself out of your comfort zone like this you will get better at your weaknesses. Orangeroost- my bet is that Oldar will steer you away from using the throttle and clutch. The only time it really makes more sense than using the back brake is when you are trying to do something halfway between a floater and a hop and you want to move forward. Otherwise it makes it easy to spin the back wheel or accidentally move forward. It also lets you get away with small, jerky hops instead of using the natural rhythm of the suspension. Locking up the back brake should be a non-issue if your set-up is correct and dealing with the feeling of moving around on the bike while still standing on the brake is something that everybody has to learn; same deal as maintaining control of the throttle and clutch wherever you are one the bike.
  9. 1992yz125

    Noob...

    Looking good! You've definitely got the feel for it now. From here you should be able to practice it and feel when you're doing it right. You're first double blip looks like almost perfect body movement; you're over the front end when it impacts and then you're quickly pushing the bike forward in front of you. The only reason that you didn't get a lot of lift there was that your front wheel barely scraped the log. In #9, you impacted a little more and got a little more height. #5 looked good, but you didn't push the bars down and away from you, that's part of what brings the back wheel up and over. The second application of the gas was also a little weak. With the resistance of the log when you hit it nice and low (as you did in this attempt) you can really sink quite a bit of throttle into it. In general though, slow down. Try approaching it at half the speed you are. At that speed, it's very easy to be sloppy. You don't have the time to fully use your body, and the extra momentum lets you get by without it.
  10. 1992yz125

    Transmission oil.

    In my Pro (not sure if you have a pro or edition) I've been using the Amsoil ATF with good results. It feels just like the DexronIII/Mercon that I was using before and between the two of them, my transmission has held together longer than most. I change it when it begins to look cloudy in the sight-glass. This is usually around 10-15 hours.
  11. 1992yz125

    Broken peg

    Still haven't been able to make a set of pegs last more than half a season or so... the ones that ccullins posted look good though.
  12. 1992yz125

    Noob...

    Ahh, that makes it easy! You're lifting way too late. Your wheel should come up, then down onto/into the log. The way you're doing it, there's no time for your body to move or do a correct second blip. Listen to the blips in the clip I posted. That's roughly how far apart the two blips should be; one to lift the front wheel, then another to bounce the bike as the front wheel impacts.
  13. 1992yz125

    Noob...

    I'm not so sure about avoiding the clutch on stuff like this... It would definitely smooth out the engine's power and should make it much easier to place the front wheel where you want it. If you're trying to drop the front wheel onto the obstacle, I'd imagine the engine 'coasting' would make it tricky without using the clutch to quickly cut power. The other risk with using no clutch is that anything in the wheel's path will slow the engine down and cause it to chug. Stalling is not hard to do when you're going at low speeds where you'd usually use the double blip. I don't have any videos of decent DB technique, but here you can see the wheels and here what's happening with the engine. There wasn't a kicker and note that I was at a standstill before lifting my front wheel. Even so, it's easy to get the back wheel on top of the little wall, and with some more aggressive body and clutch work you can totally clear a lot of small stuff with the back wheel and have it land on the backside of the obstacle. A big part of the double blip IMO is the back wheel compression. It's this rebound that actually gets your back wheel up. You can see this, because it's possible to do a double blip and have the back wheel get a decent amount of air without even hitting anything with the front wheel. Just the transfer of your weight from back to front (and once you're at the front pulling the bike up with you) is enough to have the same effect.
  14. 1992yz125

    Why is Gas Gas so messed up?

    Can't help you with your question, but I go at 100:1 and a gap of .6mm (for a GG pro)
  15. 1992yz125

    Mudflap adhesive?

    I just ditched mine. I tried keeping it on there for a while and had no luck at all.
×