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rhinoracin

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About rhinoracin

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  1. rhinoracin

    Spark plug and jetting question

    I might do that, but I also want to save time and money, and just try to fix it in a day or 2 so I can go ride. If I try to do it myself, is a better emulsion tube and new needle the main things? What else is there? The bike has 80-90 hours total and still appears/feels like it's in showroom condition. I found this if I do the carb myself: http://thumperracing.net/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=298
  2. Had a problem the last time I rode my 09 YZ a few weeks ago, it ran horribly rich at all throttle openings under 1/2 to 3/4 open. I did turn in the fuel screw a little during that ride. It's never run like this before, although I believe its time for a new spark plug as it's been over 30 hours since I put a new one in. I'm wondering if the spark plug possibly being worn has a role in this, because I had that happen on a previous bike. No big elevation change this last ride, maybe 1000 feet if anything. My riding is so cal desert, no elevation. Full drd exhaust. I have a 45 pilot jet, and I know some would say I should go down to a 42 pilot, but Im thinking the needle has more to do with this and I should lower it a clip or 2. I will probably re adjust the fuel screw too. Right now the bike pops (almost a backfire at times) more than it ever did/more than it should, while holding throttle open under 1/2 open. Then the RPM will basically "linger" for a second or 2 before returning to idle rpm. It's been a long time since I've done any rejetting so bare with me, but I'm assuming I should lower the needle and put in a new spark plug? I've already had a 42 pilot in this bike, a while ago, but I ended up with a 45.
  3. rhinoracin

    Nylon washers on oil plugs

    Thanks for the recommendation, it saved me a lot of time. Got a M8 o-ring washer from Napa and at first it leaked a few drops of oil while the bike was running, but now it doesn't leak more than a drop if anything. I assume these should be replaced every oil change
  4. rhinoracin

    Nylon washers on oil plugs

    Thanks. How big/small of a honing stone, so it will fit in the space between the left engine case and the frame rail? Where can I find/order one?
  5. rhinoracin

    Nylon washers on oil plugs

    Bump ....any thoughts on my drain plug washer issue? I know this is a simple thing to fix. I'm thinking I should get a pack of flat aluminum drain plug washers that say they're softer than copper: https://www.denniskirk.com/bolt-motorcycle-hardware/aluminum-m8-drain-plug-washers-dpwm8-15-10.p141227.prd/141227.sku?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cse&gclid=Cj0KCQjwyYHaBRDvARIsAHkAXcs-Cv4RLSaYlq4Zpvrf5fPXueNlRPlv1bvjfLs6B-HolIWTHRvyl8YaAq5kEALw_wcB&ad=244288898358 and most likely use some high temp silicon (threebond 1211?) on one or both sides of the washer. Otherwise some kind of "cone" drain plug washer like for the DRZ. What would be the best option with the drain plug washer surface on my bike being a little messed up?
  6. rhinoracin

    Nylon washers on oil plugs

    I recently got a pack of Pro-Bolt nylon washers to try on a oil drain bolt for my YZ450F, since the left oil drain washer surface has been somewhat damaged from a repair. I had an outer piece of my Time Sert repair threads break off in that oil drain, leaving the washer surface not completely smooth. The inner part of the washer surface on the crank case has a very small jagged section, or raised "ridge" on it, enough that it will leave a small indentation on any washer I use on that drain bolt. It has a slow oil leak because of this. I can ride the bike, but I stick a peice of foam under the drain bolt to see how much oil is seeping out and constantly check it. The nylon washers didn't stop the oil leak, even tried using 2 of them. Also tried an o-ring and that might have helped a little, but didnt stop the leak. I even looked into ways to smooth out the washer surface on the crank case, but it seems like it would be too difficult and risky. I am trying to figure out what to try next, and it would be nice if I can fix this without having to use a gasket maker on the washer every oil change. I'm wondering how a dowdy washer might work, and doing research I came across this thread and saw the DRZ crush washer and other aluminum crush washers. I'm wondering if this could be the answer....do you guys think it's worth trying? Is the DRZ washer the right size for the YZ's M8 drain bolt? If not the DRZ washer, what other aluminum crush washers are out there that might work? I'm thinking it might help to have a bit of a softer washer so it will form an even better seal. I was getting ready to lean the bike over again so I can pull out the drain bolt and finally try a gasket maker. I have Threebond 1211, which should be one of the best for this application right? I know it works great from everywhere else I've used it, but have never used a gasket maker on an oil drain. I also have this AGS oil drain thread sealant which I haven't tried yet. I heard to be very careful using anything on oil drain threads as it could get into the oil. Pictures: The oil drain with the outer portion of Time Sert threads broken off, can't really see the little jagged area on the aluminum but you can see how there is less surface area for the washer to seal: Please let me know what I should try or what might work the best to stop this oil leak.
  7. rhinoracin

    SSR 125 carburetor replacement

    Have an older model SSR125 with the 124cc "CDI" motor with a 4-speed clutch. It has a 20mm or 22mm Keihin carb that needs to be replaced, and I've been wondering what the best upgrade would be ...24mm or 26mm? Keihin or Mikuni? I've seen recommendations for a 22mm Mikuni, 24mm and 26mm carbs. Im hoping I can get it on Ebay, Amazon, etc. for under $50. Will I need to get a different intake boot to make it fit, and where would I find that (the metal boot that connects the carb to the cylinder)? Any recommendations and links let me know, thanks.
  8. I've been using Amsoil dirt series 10w40 in my YZ for a long time, ever since they stopped selling the original Amsoil 10w-40 "motorcycle oil". I feel like the original was better/lasted a little longer than the Dirt stuff. I'm not sure if Amsoil's "Metric" 10w-40, which I use in street bikes, is the same as their original 10w-40? Because I've been wondering if I should stop using the Dirt series in my YZ, and switch to something that might be better/last longer for the conditions I usually ride in, which is hot desert riding. I do change the oil every 10 hours or less. I'm not an expert on oil...but I feel like the stuff I've been using turns dark faster than it should, and is even thinner than a couple other 10w-40 oils? I recently had to drain oil from just the left side oil drain (the clean side?) for a repair, and it was only 0.2 hours (hour meter) after doing a full/regular oil change, and the Amsoil dirt was already a very dark green color. Not sure if that's normal or not. I'm wondering if I should switch to either Amsoil Metric 10w-40 (does it work just as good in MX bikes as it does street bikes?), Amsoil dirt series 10w-50, Motul 300V, or something even better. Wondering if Motul's "high end" stuff if better than anything Amsoil has, because I recently used the more expensive 300V Motul offers in a street bike, and it just seemed higher quality than any oil I've ever seen, and I know it's racing oil. I don't care about how much the oil costs, for my YZ I just want to start using the best/longest lasting oil possible.
  9. There is a small problem I'm having with this, there is a very slightly raised ridge on the right side of this oil drain hole opening (washer surface), where the wider part of the time sert was before it fell out. This causes the copper washer to not seat/seal 100% and a small amount of oil drips out. There was a visible indent in the copper washer from this little ridge. I got an o-ring that fits perfectly in the opening of the drain hole, around the bolt, but that only helped a little. More oil seeps out while the bike is running. I want to know if there will be any possible problem with taking the drain bolt out and sanding the drain hole washer surface to get rid of that little ridge on the aluminum? I'm assuming I should use extremely fine sand paper for this. I will just drain the oil and have the bike upright when I do this, so no metal contaminants get in the hole, then put in new oil. I was curious about other options I have that will allow me to wait for the next 10hr oil change - ptfe thread sealing tape on the drain bolt, or use a softer washer (nylon or rubber?) to create a better seal - but I think I would rather fix it right before I take my YZ out, so there's no more concern and no need to check the oil during rides. Any input helps...
  10. I am currently trying to find the part number for the 09 YZ450F left side oil drain bolt and washer, and the part number "95814-08016-00" doesn't show up on Yamaha's parts fiche. And I can't tell exactly which one it is on the diagram...it shows 2 bolts with a washer in the CRANKCASE diagram, but I'm assuming it is "95822-08016-00", #25 on the diagram. If so this part number was updated? https://www.shopyamaha.com/parts-catalog/parts/off-road-mcy#/Yamaha/YZ450F_-_YZ450FYL_-_2009/CRANKCASE/YZ450FYL_(2009_MOTORCYCLE)/CRANKCASE_(YZ450FYL_-_2009) Can someone please confirm that #25 is the drain bolt I'm looking for? Thanks
  11. I have a Time Sert oil drain plug repair kit/threads in the left side drain hole on my 09 YZ450F, from over-tightening that drain bolt a while ago. I was draining the oil yesterday for an oil change and a small section, the outer threads, of the Time Sert was broken off and came out stuck on the drain bolt. I'm guessing this happened from that bolt being slightly crooked/out of shape from when I over tightened it in the first place...yet I still thought it would be ok to keep using it. I want to get some opinions on what I should do here...should I remove the time sert in the drain hole and replace it with another one from the kit I bought? (not sure if that's possible or how I would do it, the instructions dont say anything about that, and I would have to clean out the red loctite....) Or would it be ok to leave the remaining portion of the time sert in there and use a new OEM drain bolt and washer? The threads are locked in place with the red loctite, but I'm not exactly sure how much vibration it could handle when I'm riding. I cleaned out the hole with q-tips and put a temporary new drain bolt in there (have not filled with oil yet), and tightened/loosened it a couple times to make sure that would work. The bolt goes in and out smoothly and tightens normal... Time-Sert's website says this: :TIME-SERT® is self locking. On installation the bottom internal threads of the insert are cold rolled to expand the mating external threads into the base material locking the insert in place. Locking mechanism is at the bottom of insert." I'm hoping the threads in there, which is the majority of the time sert, should stay locked in place from that inner locking function they're talking about, and the red loctite. I've never seen this happen before and I'm going to get the OEM drain bolt/washer today so I can hopefully finish the oil change, and ride the bike a little to make sure it's good to go. I have a desert trip coming up in a few days. Pictures posted below of the bolt and drain hole. Here's the kit I bought: https://www.mechanicstoolsandbits.com/time-sert/drain-pan-kits/drain-pan-repair-kits/time-sert-1812c-m8-x-1-25mm-drain-pan-thread-repair-kit.html
  12. rhinoracin

    Which repair kit for stripped oil drain plug?

    Started doing another oil change today and when I pulled out that left drain bolt, part of the Time Sert was broken off and stuck on the bolt. Pretty sure this happened because of that drain bolt being slightly crooked from over-tightening it in the first place...when tightening or loosening it by hand it would appear be at a slight angle every half turn, and I thought it wouldn't hurt to re-use it. I am going to get a new Yamaha bolt and washer right away. But I'm wondering if the rest of the time sert threads still in the oil drain hole will work, or if I should put a new one in from the kit if that's possible. To me it looks like it will work ..for now at least. Once again I have a ride in a few days and I won't have much time to replace the time sert. The threads still in there seem solid and stay in place, you can see the red loctite in there. I even tried putting in a new bolt of the same size and tightened it, then took it back out to see if the time sert would loosen or turn in the hole. It seems like there are enough threads to work just fine and they will stay tight, but then again I've never seen this happen and I don't know if it's possible for the time sert to loosen and turn during a ride, which could cause the drain bolt to loosen? Or would that time sert stay solid and in place because it has the drain bolt holding it in place good enough? Also if for some reason there are no local dealers that have the OEM drain bolt and washer in stock, would it be ok to use the same exact bolt and copper washer from a hardware store? I want to make sure this will not be a problem for this upcoming ride...and I'll be checking the drain bolt very often.
  13. rhinoracin

    Cleaning K&N air filter

    I have a 2001 Ford Explorer sport trac 4.0 v6. I've had this K&N in it for a few years, and have cleaned it several times but usually with some amount of water pressure, not just running tap water. I also used Maxima air filter cleaner this last time , not the K&N brand cleaner. I havent had any problem running this filter, my truck is rarely used off-road, let alone in dusty conditions, and I do know the risk with K&N filters off-road. I know I probably damaged this filter so I'll replace it...either OEM style cloth filter or a higher quality performance filter that works better than K&N if I can find one?
  14. Is it possible to damage or create small holes in the fabric of a K&N filter when cleaning it? I was cleaning the K&N (from my truck) and the hose faucet I used was spraying water fairly hard, but not necessarily harder than when I usually clean filters, which are mostly foam dirt bike filters. It's been a while since I've cleaned a K&N and I'm curious how much water pressure they can handle, since the fabric is so thin. I didn't notice anything different in the filter after washing it, but when I held it up to a bright light there are very tiny openings in between the strands of fabric where dust would pass through without filter oil.
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