spodeboy

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About spodeboy

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    California
  1. After 35 years of the track. I am now 50. Looking to just get out and trail ride.
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    After being off for several years I wanted to find a capable & comfortable trail bike. I was happy to find this gem out in Colorado. It is bone stock less the FMF pipe and bark busters. A little suspension, head mods, and a few other nic-nacs over time and it will be my best friend.
    After being off for several years I wanted to find a capable & comfortable trail bike. I was happy to find this gem out in Colorado. It is bone stock less the FMF pipe and bark busters. A little suspension, head mods, and a few other nic-nacs over time and it will be my best friend.
  3. I have not checked the fly wheel as I haven't removed the side cover yet. I will this weekend however.
  4. Is this normal? http://vid77.photobucket.com/albums/j77/factorydad/20141018_172625_zpsfe6e1d26.mp4
  5. Ok so after ignoring my project for a week this Saturday was time to take a look at the heart of the matter. The engine. I also detail out everything that is not going to get replaced. Again the frame! I swear it looks like it rolled off the showroom floor. As much as I would like to strip it down and go Factory white am not. I know this will rub a lot of people the wrong way, but I decided to not to a replica but a combo of the factory look (96 1-800-collect). And also money ain't what it used to be so The red will stay. Again, I have never done a 2 stroke top end. I do have decent mechanical abilities. But I am learning my way through this. So tell me what you think. Looks to my like this dude ran this bike very rich (wait till you see the power valve). And in doing so probably kept the engine well lubed. The cylinder walls appear to still have the hone marks from the last go around. There are barely any vertical marks or scoring. And the wall surface is as smooth as a mirror when i run my finger nail around it. From there I checked the play in the rod bearing. I rotated the crank all the way around and checked for up and down play and there is absolutely zero. I triple checked because I was a little giddy as this means (if I am correct ?) that the bottom end is still good to go. So I am thinking new piston and rings. Opinions? Take a look at the cylinder and tell me what you think?
  6. Perfect info. I really appreciate that. Thank you.
  7. The compression tester arrived when Santa Clause..., oops, I mean UPS showed up Friday afternoon. . I actually have a day off this Saturday so I will try and get it tested. . I started tearing the bike down a little Saturday after noon. The story I got was that the bike was rebuilt by the uncle 4 years ago, and the bike was given as a gift to the person I got it from. The guy I got it from was in his mid 20's and was a little squidly in my opinion. Since I am a special agent, and an FBI profiler, I am pretty good with sizing people up. So my question was (if the rebuild story about the uncle was true), how was this machine maintained once the kid got it? One thing I did notice is that all of the right bolts and fasteners were there. Nothing was stripped or over tightend. The radiator fluid was very clean and filled correctly. All the cables and hoses were routed and fastened corretly. The jetting was correct. Someone took the time to do this part right the last time around. I was also a little suprised by how clean the frame was, and some of these componants under the tank were. A little dusty but very clean. This attests to the things the previous owner had told me about the bike being completely gone through 4 years ago. I'll call it Probable. . As far as the good news goes it looks like someone did spend some time bringing this bike back to life at one point. However from there I think the next owner (the kid) just dumped gas in it and rode it for 4 years with zero maintenance. If you are like me then you pressure wash your bike after nearly every ride. This keeps surfaces like the rims, hubs, swing arm, frame tubes from getting dulled by dirt, exhaust, and othe elements. This bike has not been pressure washed in probably 4 years. So all of those surfaces are dulled and faded unlike the fresh frame. The petcock leaks when turned on. I have seen this many times over with really old bikes. Mostly on Hondas too. Don't know why. I have swapped many. So I am guessing the kid thought the line was leaking and replaced it with this plastic 1/4" hose & micky moused hose clamps. The amount of spooge undther the exhaust was insane. The chain and sprockets are really worn. Upon notating all of this I was interested in seeing what the motor would test at. . Test results . Time for some parts. Looks like I am going to tear it apart. I have done quite a bit of work on all of my own bikes dating back to the 80's. However in all of those years I have never done a top end on a 2 stroke. I have always had newer bikes. So I'd buy it, ride it, sell it, and get the next best thing. This will be a first for me. So my questions for any of you here are... 1). How will i determine in the cylinder is in need of anything? 2). Split the cases or just check crank play? 3). Send the head out for work? 4). What brand of parts should I use?
  8. Thanks for the info! I am definitely going to tear down and inspect top regardless of the compression. My mind just wants to know numbers!! LoL. Also I really want to ride the bike with the old carb, and then the new carb. Even though I know, and as you have stated, the performance increase is good. I want to feel the difference for my own satisfaction. Plus then I will have a much better educated opinion. Testing will begin today! I actually am home for once!
  9. Kinda pricey, but there it is. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rear-Suspension-Shock-Absorber-to-suit-Honda-CR250-CR-250-1996-96-/181025425070?pt=AU_Motorcycle_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a25f4c6ae
  10. I once drwon a brand new KX250 before I even made the first payment up in Devils Hole in Big Bear. It was snowing, and gettig dark and I had to get back the 15 mi to my truck. I tipped it upside down, yanked the plug, and turned the engine over with the kick starter for about 10 minutes until I got all the water out . I then yanked the air filter and completely dried it out by wrapping it in my jersy and sqeezing it together. I put it all back together and it fired right up, it tried to die at first but I kept it running. after about 2 minutes it reved perfectly again and I was off. In your case I would first make sure you are getting spark. Yank the plug, connect it back to the plug wire, hold the electrode it to a cyl head bolt and turn it over. Are you seeing spark?
  11. My 1998 KX250 had a very abrupt hit off the bottom. I installed 2 base gaskets and it worked like a champ. Also stopped the 3rd gear ping at altitude in loam. I sold that bike to a friend in 1999. He is still riding it and has never had the head off. Can you do this with a CR500?
  12. I have been so excited since I got this thing that over the last few days I have debated my stradegy as far as getting this project done. Do I tear it all apart and start from scratch? Do I do little by little? I think I have come up with my plan. Instead of just tearing this thing apart right away. I want to determine three things. Gearing, intake & exhaust, jetting. For this I need to ride it a bit as is. But I want to know where the engine is right off the bat. So the very first thing I will do is a coimpression test and cyl/piston inspection, and check for crank play. The previous owner did say the entire motor was gone through 4 years ago and only has about 20 hours on it from a begginer. If the spooge all over the thing is any indication of the type of rider I would say it was lugged every where. The side cases also have near zero wear since the previous work. Another indication is frame wear. There is nearly zero frame wear or foot peg wear since the frame was powder coated (Same time the engine was supposedly done). It fires right up and sounds pretty tight. So the evidence suggests that it could still be quite fresh inside. I ordered the tester yesterday. The current chain and sprockets are hammered and I would not feel comfortable with very much riding as they are now. So the swap has to happen sooner than later. It is a 13/48 right now and did feel a little tall. I may go back to what I think stock was originally 13/49. I guess I will need to determine this after the intake and exhaust changes are made as the power delivery will be different. It has the FMF Gnarly pipe and Power Core silencer. I know this pipe is designed for bottom end. And coming from 4 strokes I may prefer this pipe. But it has a few small dents. In the interest of saving money I can remove those dents, repack the silencer and give it a shot. We'll see here. I am going to replace the stock Reed cage with a Vforce after market unit. I will repair the pipe first, then install the reed cage and get the jetting dialed for my 4000 ft level elevation. Once I make the decision I will then order the PWK Air Striker carb and replace the stock PJ. Providing the engine is good. I will tackle those three things. And then I will decide on suspension issues. Once I decide what to do with the suspension I will have to remove those componants. This would be the time where I go through it and replace plastics, etc. and begin the build up back to a brand new looking bike as I await the suspension being done. First series of part buying. 1). Comression tester $59.99 2). Silver Renthal CR HI bend bars $72.49 3). Rear brake line guides $23.59 4). 96 Replica graphics and seat 195.92 (I may change my mind here and do the stock 93 day glow kit. Not sure yet) I will post my engine tests results when I get it done.
  13. I am not going to do a stripped down, ground up resto like the link I posted a few ago. I am actually going to try and do the absolute best with spending the least amount of money. So instead of replacing little things like lever perches etc, I may just touch them up to look new again etc. I will notate my progress. With that said, right now I am struggling with the frame decision. It was powder coated only 4 years ago in red (which I really don't like) and stored indoors. The frame has barealy a scratch on it, even underneith and zero fading, and looks shiney new everywhere. I can get it done shasta white for $140 bucks. But to me, the white frame is the entire look. Does anyone know if you have to yank the stem bearing races when they powder coat it?
  14. Thanks stretch, I built that YZ to make money on and sell. So i went with an up to date graphics kit to attract buyers. It worked! Also I am not 100% posotive if I am going to do the 96 rep look. I keep looking at the stock 93 and everyone is right. It just looks awesome. Thank you for that info.