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About brettgarland

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  1. I know this is a bit older by a few weeks, but: A DR350SE is a street model with electric start. 94-99. A DR350S which you appear to posses is a street model, kickstart only. 90-93. this makes a big difference in what is going to work with regards to the head/cam and crank. you're lucky, any DR350S and DR350 crank should work if you don't have electric start(other than 94-99 SE, and those cranks aren't common on Flea-bay) As for the head, you are gonna need the early non auto decomp head to match what you have, which are easier and cheaper to find IMO. I'd send your crank to jesse at Kientech and have him put a new rod/bearing on it before buying a ebay crank.
  2. Kyle, Thank you for the input. I will look at a bigger clamp shim. I know I am an odd case here asking about suspension questions for a bike 20 yrs old. I guess I just want to have something that others have used as a baseline, and since I cant fit that I know I am kinda swinging at a fastball in the dark. Sooner or later I will get where I need. Got a few of the shocks so I can build one, ride it, make adjustments to the next, and swap right away to narrow the gap somewhat quickly, then fine tune each shock.
  3. Sorry for the oversight. I am not sure how the KYB pistons are identified but here is a shot of each side of it. It looks similar to a early 2000's KX from pics I have seen, but beyond than I have no idea on "which" piston it is. -Brett
  4. thank you! Looks like I have the rebound stack sorted. Still need to get the compression dialed in. Since I gained .9mm by removing three rebound .30 shims, any suggestions on a comp stack? Would this work for a starting point on the compression stack: (It should get me under the needed height, and require a minimum of shims from SDI) 40 .30 40 .30 40 .20 36 .15 32 .15 40 .25 38 .25 36 .25 34 .25 32 .25 30 .25 28 .25 26 .25 24 .25 22 .25 I swapped some (4).25's for (2).30+ (1).20 face shims, and (2).20 large high speed shims for (1).25, and eliminated a 38 .20 shim, and removed the 19 .10 clamp shim to make up for the now missing 38 .20 shim. Am I way off base with the 19mm clamp shim making up for the missing 38 .20???? I feel like I am... Which restackor do I need to run side by side comparison style overlays?
  5. Thank you all for the help! I did use the shim thickness factor bit, and infact built an excel spread sheet to do quick .25 to .3 substitutions etc. Which version of restackor would be able to do an overlay chart of the two comp stacks? I have never used it so I have no idea. Since I am not worried about changes in port size or rebound clickers settings, could this be a simple task to compare? I do have a rebound clamp washer about 3mm thick, but as long as I can get the slightest index on the shaft step, the rest of the washer thickness is not critical to this since the washer will be located by the shaft step by .1mm or ?, but the remaining thickness will fall into the threaded end part of the shaft. That's the plan anyhow, and I have plenty of thread length for the washer and nut, since I had no peening to remove. As for the stiff rebound, its a mix of the stiffer spring, and most importantly, people complaining about the way too fast rebound of the YZ shock(and subsequent recommended stiffer rebound stacks to correct). we'll see what the suspension linkage ratio does to the equation, but that's why I plan on building a few shocks... Rebound Comparison: Original Proposed: Rebound: 36 .30 36 .30 36 .30 36 .30 24 .10 36 .30 34 .30 32 .30 30 .30 28 .30 26 .30 24 .30 23 .30 VS: Thinner Proposed: Rebound: 36 .30 36 .30 36 .30 24 .10 36 .30 34 .30 32 .30 30 .30 28 .30 26 .30 If needed I would put a slightly different crossover shim to get LS Rebound trimmed as needed. I am definitely going to be ordering some shims from SDI, so happy to throw more into the mix to get where I need to be...
  6. Hopefully I can get some suggestions for a problem I ran into with a shock I am hoping can replace an old school 40mm Showa DR350 shock. Bottom line up front: The machined step on this KYB shock shaft meant to center and clamp the shim stack, washers and piston is too short for the shim stack I want to run and I am interested in finding a shorter stack(thicker shims) or other solutions to the problem. Background: I found a brand new KYB 46mm shock with 16mm shaft(for cheap…I know, it wont be in the end now) that fits the bill to replace the stock DR350 shock I have currently. It fits physically perfectly, exact right mounting dimensions, exact right extended length, remote reservoir, etc. ***Before someone chastises me, I have been through the dirt model DR shock, racetech valve stuff, but between 20+ year old worn out (not hard anodized) shock bodies, and only a needle valve low speed compression adjuster it’s just not feasible to get a consistent decent stock rear shock built without spending $$$, so I am going a different route and found a great candidate donor shock… *** Bike: 1994 DR350SE, mostly trail riding, no motocross, enjoy more technical rocky riding, and some desert stuff but no racing. I’ll get another bike for that someday… Bike weight is about 290lbs, and I weigh 205lbs ready to ride, and sometimes have extras onboard for trips, but ride accordingly then. Points of note: -46mm bore, 16mm shaft KYB ATV shock. -Using a 6.3 Eibach 892 spring(I probably need stiffer but that’s the top of their offering-need to find an equivalent spring in a 6.7+ most likely) -Shaft nut had a metal tab lock nut with no peening, so I have good threads to the end, so as long as I can get the slightest index for the clamp washer on the rebound end I will be fine, which is why I am not counting it in my combined height calcs below. -Bike will not use full travel of shock to achieve bike spec 11.0” of shock travel, so I could run a slightly longer shaft and a stepped topout washer -I machined a 16mm longer dust cap to limit shock travel give 11.0” of wheel travel -Total travel of shock for 11.0” wheel travel is 105.5mm(4.15”); so a 2.65:1 “ratio”, although its slightly progressive(more shock travel required per inch of wheel travel near full compression) -Current extended eye to eye length is exactly the same (440mm) as stock DR350 shock (so a longer shaft will require a stepped top out washer to maintain extended length). -Top out washer is pretty thin already so I am not sure I should machine a slight step in it and get some of the distance I need to make up. Problem: The shock is not from a dirtbike application, so I went to revalve it, and ran into my issue: The shock shaft clamp height of the 12mm OD machined step is shorter than my shim stack/washer/piston combo height. I found a YZ woods shim stack I was planning on using as a baseline from which to tune this shock to fit my riding style. I am accounting for a higher than normal YZ spring rate with a heavier rebound stack, but generally using it as a baseline. Shaft step height; 27.75mm Top out washer: 3.15mm Compression Stack (YZ Based): 4.25mm Piston Thickness: 18.00mm Rebound Stack: 3.70mm The washer, piston, and comp/rebound stack height total: 29.10mm so I need to trim ~1.35mm from shim stack height to make it fit… So, as you can tell, my initial proposed combo of top out washer, comp stack, piston, and rebound stack is taller than the clamp height of the shock shaft itself. This prevents the last few rebound shims from being properly centered on the shaft as they ride in the recess required for threading the shaft. My proposed shim stacks based on various 06 YZ woods stacks found via thumpertalk: Compression: 40 .25 40 .25 40 .25 40 .25 36 .15 32 .15 40 .20 40 .20 38 .20 38 .25 36 .25 34 .25 32 .25 30 .25 28 .25 26 .25 24 .25 22 .25 19 .10 Rebound: 36 .30 36 .30 36 .30 36 .30 24 .10 36 .30 34 .30 32 .30 30 .30 28 .30 26 .30 24 .30 23 .30 So, my questions are as follows: 1. Can I build a comp stack using majority .30 shims(except crossovers) and reduce the comp stack height so that it will behave similarly to the proposed stack I have above? Using shim thickness factors, I came up with the following stack, but I am not sure how to account for two different diameter .25 shims being translated into a single .30 shim… (will the basic restackor run comparisons between two stacks?) I was thinking something like this for compression: 40 .30 40 .30 40 .20 36 .15 32 .15 40 .25 38 .25 34 .30 30 .30 26 .30 22 .30 20 .10 2. If I am able to build a thinner comp stack, how much shim delfection “room” is required? My concern is that with a very short comp stack, and the large top out washer, I am limiting the shim deflection “room” to about 1.9mm(added up all non face shim diameter shim thicknesses in comp stack.) 3. Is there an easy way to take the rebound stack and make it thinner but act similarly? (IE remove a 36mm face shim and remove a clamp shim?). 4. If neither of these are possibilities, is there anyway/anyone who can point me to a site or clue me in to dimensions of 16mm KYB shock shafts so I can match up the existing shaft as close as possible to another 16mm KYB shaft(KX, YZ, etc…), and make something work(using a stepped top out washer or similar to match extended length)? (BTW, SDI can order shafts, but by application only and offers no dimensional data until I get the non-refundable shaft according to one of the techs on the phone). 5.If nothing exists off the shelf is easily identifiable as a suitable replacement, who can machine and chrome a few custom shock shafts? I am intending on building a few of the shocks for my 2 DR350’s, and have the donor shaft available for baseline measurements. Thanks for your time an help! -Brett
  7. I have a 94 dr250se with a 97/95 DR350se motor. Absolutely bolt in affair. I am running the 250 CDI(theyre somewhat year specific b/c of the dual VR sensor in later years), but its a definitely a worthwhile upgrade. Way snappier throttle response than the 350 CDI.
  8. Dusting off the project... sorry for the long delay! Got the V3 Microsquirt in hand(sad that they call that waterproof!) and some BIP373 drivers for ignition coils... Installed sensors: Baro, Inlet Air Temp, and Coolant(cylinder head). Been working on mocking up some wiring and utilizing some fancy splice connectors found in Honda TRX harnesses. These will allow me to easily access certain ciruits with a scope to troubleshoot. No pics for now, but next week I will be back in town and punch ahead on it...
  9. I have been slacking a bit, but finally got some motivation to get after knocking out some parts I was dreading making. A friend owns a CNC shop, so I decided to draft the throttle body air boot adapter and the trigger wheel in CAD and just get them cut out. While the air boot adapter wouldnt be too hard on a lathe, the trigger wheel requires alot of lathe and mill time, and the prospect of a dividing head is very time consuming, based on the confines I decided to box myself in with. For the trigger wheel, I wanted to use one of the two stock VR sensors, since they seem to be pretty reliable, and I can leave the second one in there, and have a "spare" with a bit of swapping locations. Redundancy, I guess. Furthermore, there is not an easy way to machine and install a true toothed wheel on the DR350 flywheel that would allow for a completely "under the cover" installation. Combine that with the fact that the flywheel is not true dimensionally in its outside diameter, means chucking it on a mandrel and turning it down to accept a std toothed wheel would compound the nearly .015" variation in OD, resulting in significant balance issues. So, I devised this trigger wheel, that will be about 2mm thickness, and once I grind down the short stock tooth on the wheel, will press onto the wheel. It should just clear the VR sensor pickup, and with a bit of honing, fit any DR flywheel. If anyone out there is reading this and happens to have a flywheel handy, measure the OD of it, and let me know. I am planning on making the ID 5.120" which is about avg for mine, but I can trim the dims if needed to it might fit others... Planning on making a few of them, since the programming, not material is the real cost of this simple a part. My flywheel ranges from 5.127" to 5.110" in diameter, and its not a simple oval shape. Some of you out there might wonder what happens to the weight removed with deleting the stock bump. I calculated the volume of material, and will drill balance holes on the wider edge of the ring, opposite the original bump. Of course the OD of the ring will change with the OD of the flywheel its pressed onto, but I hope I will still get a decently smooth signal with regards to the peaks it produces as the VR sensor detects the "teeth"
  10. Thats a bummer to hear for sure. There are a few options, but, in most states you are legally required to at least in some form release the seller from liability, and accept ownership within a few days of transfer, so after a few years youre hanging your ass in the wind so to speak. Not all is lost. Most states allow for a bonded title, and you pay a "company" to bond the title, do their due diligence, and after a prescribed amount of time, they can release the title to you free and clear. Having done deployments for Uncle Sam in the past, please do give the servicemember a bit of leeway, as they may very well be deployed and unable to receive, in a timely fashion, any correspondance you mail them. I have no idea how long you have been trying to contact him, so forgive me if its been years. Contact your local Motor Vehicle Registry,or whatever its called and ask what your options are. The lame phone voice on the other end may not know all the answers, or even be willing to look, but I am sure you can figure it out. thousands of vehicles are transfered on lien sales and other crap daily, so there is without question a "way" to do it, legally.
  11. msiddalingaiah: The TRX Keihin pump is substantially smaller. I will post a pic of that compared to the 1.5" CBR pump. MUCH easier to snake into the filler neck. Thank you very much for the information regarding the connectors. Will be looking into it! As far as connectors holding me up are concerned, I am working with a sumitomo distributor to figure out what each of the TRX throttle body connectors part numbers are(two on the ebay harness I bought were damaged . Also gonna use the sealed TRX fuse block, so I needed to order the correct crimp terminals for it. Found a good waterproof twin 15 amp relay as well, and its got a specific sumitomo connector as well, which happens to be the same as a Honda WBO2sensor. so had to order that as well. Tomorrow project is gonna be testing the intank pump, and flow testing the injector. I have two TRX420 throttle bodies, so I will get a good avg flow rate I hope. On a side note, this regulator runs at 50psi. Is the standard flow rate for MS Tuner at the normal 43psi?
  12. Geaux: thanks! it was a painful, time consuming process, but worth it. Gonna hook it up and test the injector fuel flow rate this weekend. martin t: As far as I can tell, the TRX420/680/700 are functionally the same. Bore size is the difference. I bought a trx680 one for cheap, and its 40mm. I think the trx700 one is 44mm? As far as the EFI project is concerned, I have been behind schedule. Trying to source connectors/crimp terminals is not easy.
  13. BTW, the bike feels loose in down hill turns(or sandy/loose turns.)
  14. About to button these up. Any insight regarding the rebound stack(towards the end of the post) would appreciated. Right now, on another set of the same forks I closed the holes, and the rebound adjuster seems to have to be all the way out, but it feels okay there. Would I be off base starting with this stack: OD (thickness) 17 .10 8 .10 17 .10 16 .10 15 .10 14 .15 13 .15 9 .20 12.5 2.65 Large Clamping Washer. I think if I take one of the first low speed 17mm shims out, it will allow for better low speed rebound, but still have decent higher speed rebound. What are tell tale signs of high vs low speed rebound issues? I am a novice at this process.
  15. More pics of the Fuel Bulkhead fitting: